Vilnius: Stories And Histories
Imagine walking across a bridge in the middle of a capital city and being met with a sign on a shop wall reading “border control”, passing entry instructions to the Republic which include a smile icon, multiple flags with an open palm as the centrepiece, and then finding yourself alongside a wall with the Republic’s constitution detailed in over 40 languages, including such clauses as…
“Everyone has the right to die, but this is not an obligation”
“Everyone has the right to be happy”
“Everyone has the right to be unhappy”
“Everyone has the right to have no rights”
And concludes with the Republic’s motto…
“Do not defeat…do not fight back….do not surrender”.
Welcome to Uzupis, a self declared Republic within the city of Vilnius, a 1km square plot surrounded by water, home to a population where 1 in 7 are artists and taking yourself seriously is, it would seem, unacceptable. A “republic”, recognised by the world only in jest yet legitimised by Papal visits, with a National Day of April 1st, with an “ambassador for whistling in the street”, yet which has a certain autonomy in local Government and genuine respect within its country.
Uzupis is part Narnia, part Monster Raving Loony, part fact, part fiction. Part satire, part political. So much so that we can’t even work out just how seriously they do take themselves – though we strongly suspect not at all. It’s fun to be here with the “national” flag at every few paces (it changes colour each season) and the crazy constitution (Google it in full!) fixed to the walls to support and promote bohemian lifestyles. How refreshing it is to find somewhere where a sense of humour is intrinsic.
This ersatz Republic sits between the rivers of Vilnius, connected to the old city by a number of bridges, and was in earlier times an area of decrepit housing with a reputation for lawlessness and prostitution, before artists gravitated here from around Europe and created the bohemian atmosphere which lead to its current amusing, happy vibe. We don’t know if we’ve ever seen anywhere quite like it……..
The wider city of Vilnius seems extremely comfortable with itself whilst at the same time basking in freedom, perhaps the perfect combination for something or somewhere like Uzupis to exist.
But, like most cities of Europe, there is something of a dark history beneath the surface. There is little left of the old city walls, but between the obvious boundaries of Cathedral Square to the north and, to the south, the wonderfully named Gates Of Dawn (connections to Pink Floyd purely coincidental), lofty ancient buildings bow down over tight cobbled streets with more stories to tell than most.
Occupation by the Soviet Union followed Nazi invasion during WW2; the Soviets seeking to dispel indigenous culture by expulsion and infiltration, the Nazis, as ever, creating ghettos for the Jewish population in preparation for their slaughter. The former ghettos now sport a series of evocative pieces of street art reviving memories of the Semite people, though all but one of the synagogues are long destroyed.
The Musicians 
The Paper Boys 
The Salesman 
The Man from the Trade District 
The Wiseman 
Monument to Jewish Doctor
Vilnius proudly displays its Jewish history, enjoys its offbeat bohemian Uzupis “republic”, and speaks little of, and gives no respect to, its period of Russian/Soviet occupation. Lithuania is proud to have resurfaced and the adjective “resilient” is in its every piece of written history. There seems to be enormous pride in that characteristic. As there surely should be.
18 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
This is incredible what an unusual and interesting experience 😆 ..
Phil & Michaela
It certainly was!
Gilda Baxter
I have never heard of Usupis, how exciting to visit such a bohemian place. I would not have expected such place in Lithuania. Fascinating!!
Andrew Petcher
Reminded me of that film – ‘Passport to Pimlico’!
Phil & Michaela
Don’t know that film but Uzupis is definitely a tad different!
grandmisadventures
So interesting to read on this self created republic of part fact and part satire! Ive never really known much about this part of the world and Im really loving following along on your trip
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, glad you’re enjoying x
Toonsarah
Ah, you’ve really sold Vilnius to me now! All those stories, those photogenic old buildings and most of all the spirit of Uzupis! I love that constitution, especially “Everyone has the right to have no rights” – how twisted and provoking is that statement!
Phil & Michaela
The entire constitution is tinged with madness – as is the place itself
Toonsarah
That’s why I would love to visit!
Monkey's Tale
Such a contrast between the loony Uzupis section and the haunting picture if the street jn the Old Town. Sounds like a complicated and fascinating place. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
The complexities cone really from decades of oppression…more to follow on that in our concluding post, Maggie..
Latitude Adjustment, A tale of two travelers!
Vilnius is on our list after doing research on my grandparents and discovering my grandmother was born there.
Great post!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys
rkrontheroad
Rather than a display of whimsical art, your photos of the artwork in the Jewish quarter are so moving. They evoke a feel of the culture and peoples that once were there.
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely.
Annie Berger
I smiled when reading your description of Usupis as it also intrigued us on our stay several years ago! Loved that quirky ‘republic’!
Phil & Michaela
That was an amusing place to visit