These Cornish Things
In our last blog post we discussed how unseasonable the current weather is, feeling far too mild to be cusp November. After over four decades of visiting Cornwall I really should have known better, for my comeuppance arrives swiftly and with a vengeance, in the form of howling gales and unforgiving hailstorms.
Walking from Rock to Polzeath is a doddle, the morning clouds banished by the strong winds which, coming from behind, propel us along the coast path at roughly twice our normal walking speed. The return walk couldn’t be more different. Just in time for reaching the part of the path furthest from shelter, those winds, now head on of course, fire hailstones like bullets on a horizontal trajectory straight into our faces. And bare legs. For a full five minutes all we can do is just stand, hoods lofted, with our backs to the onslaught.
Ah this Cornish weather. You don’t mess with it you know – serves me right for that last blog post. By Wednesday the gales have the Atlantic smashing against the rocks, providing an exhilarating spectacle of raging surf and mighty power. The combined roar of air and sea is almost deafening as we battle the winds to watch the drama from the cliff path above Treyarnon. It’s so worth it.
The rains then set in and stay for the day, lashing our windows and making the house creak like an old pirate ship before a brief respite gives us the opportunity to hurry down to the harbour for dinner
On Thursday we head over to the other side of Cornwall and to its south coast for a hike around the beautiful Roseland Peninsula, including the gorgeous little fishing village of Portloe, a place we’ve never seen before. It’s so lovely, its white buildings nestled together around the tight rocky cove like a flock of penguins looking out to sea. We get lucky: with multiple giant rainstorms around, we catch only one short sharp shower and plenty of sunny spells, then within twenty minutes of reaching the car, the next deluge is underway.
The two coasts of Cornwall are so different from each other. Whilst the north coast is largely rugged with giant cliffs engaging in daily muscular battles with the pounding seas, the south is far more gentle, far more rolling, with bracken clad hills sweeping rather than dropping from clifftop to sea level. Different, but each packed with their own individual charms.
Soaked by the showers but basking in intermittent sunshine, the colours of the coast are even more vivid than usual, enhanced by the extra touch of the golden brown of the crispy bracken which just seems to finish off the greens and blues beautifully.
Our customary autumn visit to Cornwall is done amid some properly changeable weather, just one element of what gives Cornwall its character. And that’s it. Now our thoughts turn to our next overseas adventure.
25 Comments
Heyjude
The Roseland peninsula is an area that we haven’t explored much. It does look stunning.
Phil & Michaela
It is! We’d only been to St Mawes previously, but the area is well worth a hike. Lovely coastline.
Steven and Annie Berger
Your pictures and prose brightened up my morning. Such a beautiful area to hike around. We’ve actually found hiking in difficult weather makes the day even more memorable.
Thanks,
Steve
Phil & Michaela
You’re right, it does!
Toonsarah
You really should write for the Cornish tourist board! You sell the county so well and your love for it shines through your posts even when you’re bemoaning the weather!
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha thanks Sarah, definitely a favourite retreat..
Mike and Kellye Hefner
What an absolutely beautiful place to spend time in the fall! Thank you for sharing Cornwall with us.
Monkey's Tale
Wow these pictures are amazing! The weather adds another layer to the pictures, thanks for going out into he wind and rain for the shots 1😊 Maggie
wetanddustyroads
Love those ominous clouds photos … but I would prefer to rather be somewhere under a roof when a hail storm breaks out! And how amazing is the colour of the sea at Roseland peninsula coast – such a beautiful turquoise! I always enjoy your outings to Cornwall – you’re a true ambassador for this place!
Phil & Michaela
Well I LOVE IT!!!
Alison
Fantastic colours
I bet you were glad to make it back to the house in one piece. Picture postcard photos
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like quite the drastic change in the weather, but at least you were both in good spirits! Good for you for braving the elements. You were rewarded with such beautiful scenery, even if the skies were moody. Your pictures are gorgeous.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys – yes it was a bit variable!
grandmisadventures
What a difference in weather from the peaceful and inviting to the stormy and overpowering! But even in the storm, what a beautiful stretch of Cornwall to visit with you today.
Phil & Michaela
It is a very beautiful area
Christie
What a treat, wonderful photos! Even the dark clouds and the gloomy weather can’t diminish the beauty of those coastlines. I love Michaela’s photo, her joy and enthusiasm is contagious!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Christie, yes she was having fun battling the wind!
leightontravels
As autumn traditions go this seems like a winner. The Roseland Peninsula looks fabulous, what a difference between those initial skies and the hailstorm that descended.
Dave Ply
Beautiful pics, although I don’t envy you the drubbing by hail stone.
Laura
Your photos are so stunning! The Roseland Peninsula in particular looks magical. It sounds like you experienced a sudden shift in weather like we did here on the west coast of Canada- we were having an extended summer and then fall arrived swiftly and tumultuously.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Laura. Yes we think it’s time for us to get travelling again!
rkrontheroad
Love the photo of the colorful fishing boats.
Phil & Michaela
Yes Michaela has a big liking fir colourful fishing boats!
rkrontheroad
Is she the photographer and you the writer, Phiil? Great teamwork.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, exactly that. Except Michaela also does all the IT bit – the physical posting and layout of pages etc. I do the words, and responses to comments, and read and comment on the blogs which we follow. It makes it roughly 50/50 time wise.