Tales Of Smut, Keys & Turtles: Last Days In Mexico
We described Tulum in our last post as being too over developed, too touristy and very much too over priced for our liking, with an enormous amount of further development in the midst of construction, but, you know, everywhere has redeeming features – it’s just that in places like Tulum you have to look a bit deeper to find them.
The music in some of the bars in the main street is simply too loud to hold a conversation, so loud in fact that I’m reminded of what my Dad used to say. “I do detest pubs which are so loud that I can’t hear myself drink”. But as we gravitate down the side streets, past some delicious smelling street food trolleys, so the more friendly bars with attractive lighting and music at a sensible level start to reveal themselves. We even find one with a local draught beer.
Those side streets are also home to better places to eat than the plethora of burger/pizza/pasta/springroll places along the main drag – sometimes the street vendors and, now and again, a local speciality. One such local delicacy is huitlacoxe. Now, does anyone know what corn smut is? Would you be put off eating something with that name? Because that’s what huitlacoxe is.
A healthy, protein packed food eaten on the Yucatan peninsula since Mayan times, huitlacoxe or corn smut is a black fungus which grows on the heads of diseased maize crop, caused by a fungus which infects the whole plant and forms black tumours on the yellow corn. It has, perhaps not surprisingly, a deep mushroom-like flavour, and is great as a tortilla filling with cheese, coriander and salsa. Amusingly, some American chefs have tried to increase its popularity there by renaming it “Mexican truffle” – well, we guess that does sound more appetising than “corn smut”.
With Tulum being what it is, our newly acquired hire car is a real boon, enabling us to discover the pretty bay at Akumal, 30-odd kilometres north. Despite sounding like a computer program for finance departments, Akumal is an attractive series of half moon bays with turquoise waters, white sands, palm trees and……turtles. Even though Akumal was artificially created in the 1950s as a tourist destination, major development has been kept away, meaning that in its entirety it is just a handful of shops and a series of modest sized beachfront resort hotels hidden in the palm trees, where the main attraction is the turtle breeding ground.
Whilst obviously therefore a holiday spot, and still part of the over popular Riviera Maya, it is decidedly more sedate than the bigger towns and is a perfectly fine beach location at which to wile away a few hours. Plus there’s a veritable army of guys removing the sargassum as soon as it rolls up on the sand. We’re still in Touristland rather than Mexico of course, but at least it’s a few notches down the scale.
Snorkelling and diving are the main reasons people come here, this place presents an ideal opportunity to observe turtles in their natural habitat. Before we enter the water we receive strict instructions: float and don’t walk, stay horizontal, do not move towards the turtles, don’t touch anything, including the weed and coral as well as the creatures. Don’t go in the water with sun screen or insect repellent on your body. There are also heavy fines for anyone littering the beach.
Swimming above and amongst the turtles and seeing rays, colourful fish and a large starfish all adds up to another terrific experience, well worth the fairly steep fee. Our guide even places a large sea urchin into Michaela’s hand at one point. It’s all rather thrilling, and all without swimming any great distance from the shore.
We’re left reflecting on the delicate balance of ethics here though. Clearly there are a lot of strict well enforced rules in place to protect the wildlife, and despite Akumal’s popularity the turtle young still hatch on the beaches. Laudable as it all is, nevertheless the turtles’ habitat is still invaded daily by large numbers of gawping humans (like us). Akumal claims to be inflicting no harm on these beautiful creatures and their environment. We sincerely hope that is an honest claim.
It’s on a trip to Akumal that we have a little “incident”. Driving along the main road, I start to worry that I don’t know where the room keys are – not so good when we also have a key to the main always-locked gate which opens out to the public highway. Sure enough, a thorough search of car and bags finds nothing. The more we look, the more they aren’t there, as Winnie The Pooh would have said. Somehow between house and car and gas station I’ve parted company with the damn things. In all of our travels, in all of our rooms, all over the world, we have never before lost any keys. There is indeed a first time for everything it seems, and I have to sheepishly admit my folly after ringing the doorbell to get back in later in the day.
“How much I have to pay for new key?”
“Eh?”
“Mi pagado par nuevo”, I say, pointing to his spare set and getting as close as I can to a coherent sentence in Spanish.
“Ah. Mañana”, he says, motioning towards the manager’s office. I think I’m in trouble.
And so we reach the very last day of this long trip which has brought us so many great experiences. Venturing a few miles out of Tulum we make one last great discovery to provide a fitting end to this great adventure: Laguna Kaan Luum. Just a few hundred metres down a potholed track off the highway, this absolutely sumptuous lake lies in splendour within its mangrove tree boundaries.
It’s a beautifully peaceful place – music, smoking, pets and alcohol are all banned – where just modest numbers of respectful people wallow in its silent waters. A deep blue cenote sits centrally in the otherwise turquoise lake, two wooden jetties providing the easy platform for gliding into the warm still waters. It’s an unbelievably serene way to end our time here, all the better for how unexpected this haven of tranquility is just a short drive from Tulum.
All this and sunshine too: the rains of our final three days have conveniently fallen either overnight or just after breakfast, leaving the rest of the day clear for hours of glorious, scorching sun.
“Buenos dias, you OK?”
“Si, gracias. But I still have to pay for the lost key”.
He consults what I presume is his rule book, and looks up, a matter-of-fact expression on his face.
“I’m sorry, you have to pay 300 pesos”.
No, my friend, it’s me that’s sorry. I feel rather stupid. Despite my contrition he is both apologetic and friendly and does nothing at all to add to my feelings of guilt, bless him.
Three lovely, relaxed days to say goodbye to Mexico. Not a bad way to bow out.
32 Comments
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I am so glad your trip ended on an upside. Laguna Kaam Luum and Akumal look amazingly peaceful. I am going to miss your current travels, but I will be looking forward to your next adventure.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Kellye, your comments and support are always very much appreciated. And…maybe you won’t have to wait too long till the next one…
Terrie
Welcome traveler! I still would love to see a before and after of what you took and what came home on those backpacks.
Phil & Michaela
Ah well, we’ve jettisoned quite a few bits of clothing (and shoes) which bit the dust, but we’ve probably acquired an equal amount of hew stuff on the way. So it amounts to exchanges of stuff rather than less, or more. Oh plus of course a new painting for the house and a number of small presents for our young relatives.
Lingo in Transit
What a beautiful part of Mexico! Thank you for sharing about Akumal, I didn’t realise that there are places that forbid entry into waters with sunscreen and insect repellent on.
Phil & Michaela
It’s very different from the rest of Mexico though, as we said – it’s beautiful in places but it’s a big resort area. Mexico has a lot more to offer than this most popular bit.
Monkey's Tale
That cenote looks amazing. I’ll have to remember it. Sad to see an end to your journey, but it’s been great to follow. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Maggie. Already starting to plan…
Alison
The corn smuts do not sound appetizing at all Phil! Great you found places off the beaten track. The beach looked glorious and wonderful sealife photos. Not bad only losing your keys once in all your travels. Are you like us and always leave something behind even though we both do a final sweep of the room.
Phil & Michaela
No, actually, we’re pretty organised and don’t tend to either forget or lose things, generally. I guess that’s why I was so cross with myself for losing the keys. In truth I think using backpacks rather than cases helps with being organised – you tend to load it in the same order which makes you less likely to forget anything. Or am I just a bit too orderly!?
Alison
You sound very orderly, I thought I was but literally after every trip this year we have left something behind. Anthony even left a jacket in our last one night stay!
Phil & Michaela
Now that’s just silly!
Alison
Isn’t it.. who hangs things in a wardrobe for one night
Toonsarah
I can certainly understand why those US chefs would rebrand “corn smut” as “Mexican truffle” 🤣 But I’d be curious to try it as I love mushroom flavours! And that Laguna looks amazing, a fitting end to to your travels. As to the lost key incident, we’ve not yet done that but we did once drive about 100 miles away from a B&B in Wyoming before realising we still had the key and rather large fob. We had to make an apologetic phone call and then trust the key to the US postal system!
Phil & Michaela
Oh no, that’s not good either! I’m pretty sure you’d like corn smut then – it’s a deep mushroom flavour without being too intense, and with a more al dente texture.
grandmisadventures
I love your pictures of the water and how you can see such distinct differences in the color and depth. A beautiful place to end your travels in Mexico 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Meg – such a tranquil, peaceful place
Annie Berger
Glad you were able to finish your long trip on a high note except for the lost keys. The Laguna looked lovely!
So sorry to hear of the Queen’s passing today. What a deep loss for your country, the Commonwealth, and the world over.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie, yes this is a sad day. Incredible to think that I’m 65 and that’s the first time I’ve ever heard the death of a monarch announced.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
You had a great trip and wonderful reports and photos. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys
WanderingCanadians
Your pictures of Laguna Kaan Luum are gorgeous. The colour of the water looks so pretty. Glad to hear that Tulum has some redeeming qualities. I’ve never heard of corn smut before. It doesn’t sound appetizing, but it sounds and looks surprisingly delicious. How fun to spot more marine life while snorkelling!
Phil & Michaela
The lake was so beautifully peaceful. Corn smut is tasty despite its name. Thank you so much for your comments.
Lookoom
Your descriptions of Mexico form an interesting whole and give a perspective so much more pleasant than the usual image of the country. Certainly there are the effects of overtourism, but many places are like that. However, you have always managed to find more authentic places to put things in perspective.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much. It is indeed a varied country and there are measurable differences between the different regions. I am pleased that we managed to convey that.
leightontravels
I’m so glad that Tulum redeemed itself a little and that the end of your trip wasn’t the anticlimax you’d perhaps first feared. You know, the thing about playing (usually shit) music at ear-blistering levels is a pet hate of mine. I have found that across the world, there isn’t a beautiful sunset, fantastic view or boat tour that people can’t ruin with the incessant need to blast ridiculously loud music through your skull. Sorry, rant over. Huitlacoxe certainly looks like a curious proposition, I’m not entirely convinced, though I’d definitely give it a go. What did you actually think of it? Akumal however looks like much more of a no-brainer, you got some great shots (as usual) of the local marine life. What a trip you’ve had, wishing you a very safe journey home if indeed you aren’t already back by now.
Phil & Michaela
I absolutely couldn’t agree more about the music thing, and I am – as you will know by now – a lover of music and music history. Well, with “corn smut”, if you like mushrooms, you’d love it…it’s like a deep, slightly silky version. Yes we’re home thanks (for now) – we got home just a few hours before the announcement of the Queen’s death. I’m looking forward to hearing about Georgia though…
bitaboutbritain
Fascinating. And stunning!
wetanddustyroads
Akumal beach is indeed lovely – the white sand and turquoise water – wow! Great photos of the turtles and that amazing lake … indeed, what a way to end your trip! Oh, and I must say: I totally agree with your dad 🙃.
Phil & Michaela
It was so peaceful at that lake, and kind of unexpected too. My Dad was a very funny guy, I find myself talking of him often.
rkrontheroad
Love the laguna and tortugas. I always panic when packing to go home because I can’t remember where in my bags I’ve stashed my keys. There is one hidden outside the house I’ve had to dig up a few times, then the key shows up when I unpack.
Phil & Michaela
Ha! This was unusual for us, not a mistake we make regularly