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Cornwall: One Last Wild Walk
Although we are regular visitors to Cornwall, this has been a different kind of visit from normal, in several good ways. Our visits are by necessity normally fleeting and out of season, so to have spent 25 days here across two visits over the last few weeks has been a joy. Because our time here is normally brief, we ordinarily restrict ourselves to time around the Camel Estuary, so to have had the time and opportunity to rediscover more of Cornwall has been brilliant. Our last day here arrives accompanied by an amber weather warning for strong winds, and sure enough the cottage is being battered and is creaking like…
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Once More To Southern Shores
With this visit to Cornwall entering its last few days, we endeavour to find a further mix of road trips and coastal walks to sign off in style. Our first attempt to return to the south coast is thwarted by a jet black storm hanging above the cliffs and dumping incessant heavy rain, in marked contrast to the “light showers” forecast by the BBC. By evening things have cheered up back in Padstow and the steak and Merlot we enjoy in The Old Custom House pub easily makes up for a lost day. Wednesday May 19th we make a more successful attempt to visit….. POLPERRO By whatever criteria you judge…
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Atlantic Views
Sunday morning brings gloomy light, dark clouds and the threat of rain, the forecast is less than encouraging. By the time we’ve had coffee and breakfast the rain is pounding the windows and gathering in puddles on the decking outside the cottage, and we start to weigh up braving the elements versus staying indoors. The spirit of adventure wins, and we get rewarded on our trip down the coast, starting at Porthcothan. Remarkably we dodge the showers all day, with a cliff walk above the beach at Porthcothan, followed by a visit to Carnewas, more familiarly known as Bedruthan Steps. The “steps” are a sequence of rock pillars isolated from…
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Three Takes On Man Versus The Sea
Our next Cornwall road trip explores three very different elements of man’s relationship with the sea – in fact it’s hard to imagine three more disparate aspects than the three we explore on this single day. Our first destination is the delightfully attractive town of…… MOUSEHOLE To UK inhabitants of a certain age, the very word “Penlee” still stirs the memory of an awful disaster which took the lives of those trying to save others. On December 19th 1981, the Penlee lifeboat was scrambled to assist the stricken Union Star, a bulk freight vessel on its maiden commercial voyage from the Netherlands to Ireland, which had suffered engine failure in…
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Coastal Paths And Tin Mines
When you’re walking the North Cornwall section of the coast path, it goes something like this. You can see the next headland what looks to be not too far ahead, but then you realise that to get to that headland you have to descend the steep ravine and then make the long climb up the opposite bank until you reach the summit of the next headland, from where you can see the next headland what looks to be not too far ahead, but then you realise that to get to that headland you have to descend the steep ravine and then make the long climb up the opposite bank until…
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Way Down South…
Having had 10 rainless days here in April, we get payback on first day this time which is pretty much a total washout. So we get a few housekeeping issues at the cottage sorted, watch the rain fall, listen to the wind, until we go to meet Joy & Charlie for a beer at The Shipwrights as it threatens to clear up. Somewhere around the third sip of Tribute the rain comes in horizontally across the harbour and the pointlessness of an outdoor beer in this weather becomes apparent very quickly. COVID restrictions mean indoor beers are banned, so the day is basically over. Sunday is a little better and…
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From South East To South West And A Look At Traffic Lights
Friday May 7th and we now head back to Cornwall, this time for a full fortnight of walking the coastal paths and exploring different parts of this terrific peninsula. The slow arrival of Spring mentioned in our previous post continues to confound. On the long drive down here it is obvious that leaf growth is delayed by the continuing lower than average temperatures; frost prevails, cold winds continue and this week the media showed pictures of heavy snowfalls in Scotland. In fact, a ski resort which has been closed all winter due to COVID has now reopened with good snow – the first time the resort has ever been open…
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Home From Cornwall….For Now
Ten days in Cornwall in April and we didn’t see a drop of rain, now that’s got to be a blessing. COVID restrictions and protocols made it a different kind of visit, with no indoor catering coupled with cold evenings and limited table space making seeking our main meal a bit of a daily challenge but with a bit of flexibility and resourcefulness we avoided going hungry. Our new found virtue of patience, no doubt brought on by the slower pace of retirement, came in handy at times. And so we have completed the first of three UK trips which we have in the diary to fill in some of…
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The Sleepy Shores Of St Mawes
Approaching St Mawes is in one respect just a little bit like approaching a Greek island, in that the very best view you will get all day is the view you get from the ferry as it turns towards the harbour. Of course it is yet another quaint and picturesque location and is great to explore, but there’s no denying that the first view is the best view. The little ferry, which can be caught from either of two quays in Falmouth, is itself a picture of quaint tradition and bobs rather pleasingly over the waves as it crosses between the two headlands. Within Falmouth harbour sits a characteristically grey…
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The Path To Polzeath
Something is slightly different this morning as we stir from our slumbers, though it takes us a few minutes to register that it’s the air coming in through the bedroom window: it’s even colder than yesterday. A quick peek through the curtains reveals white grass and sparkling roof tiles – so here we are in mid April, way down in the South West which rarely sees harsh winter, with a proper, sharp frost to start our second day. Whatever happened to that global warming thing??! Today’s walk takes us along the northern side of the estuary from Rock to Polzeath, so we begin with the ferry across the River Camel…
