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Amorgos: The Big Blue
We’ve only been on Amorgos for a few hours when we first start talking about it. So instantly attractive and with so many things to do and see, Amorgos quickly asserts itself into needing more than the 4 days we have allocated to it on our schedule. By morning we’ve extended that to 6 days after poring over the changing ferry schedules and finding ways to re-jig our forward moves. After a 5:15am ferry departure from Astypalea, we have made the crossing, driven over Amorgos’s mountains and down to our new base in Katopola before the menus are out on the breakfast cafe tables. Katopola is one of a trio…
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Towards The End Of Crete
We do like to mix it up a bit when it comes to accommodation on our travels, and aim for a bit of variety. Large hotels with small spaces and big prices aren’t really our thing, but pretty much anything else is fair game. So after apartments in Hania, Thessaloniki and Korinthos, a small family hotel in Delphi, and an “aparthotel” in Agios Nikolaos, we both find ourselves beaming from ear to ear as we drive up the steep unmade road to our next base in the village of Palaiokastro, just a short drive from the eastern coastline of Crete. For the next few days we are based in a…
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Legends, Myths & Mountains: This Is Delphi
“Welcome to Delphi”, says the taxi driver as we enter the small town, “the centre of the world”. The reason for that comment will become clear, but as we look out of the car window at the unbelievable scenery which has been unfolding for miles, we feel more like we’re on the edge of the world than in its centre. The modern town of Delphi lies just a few hundred yards from the ancient civilisation of the same name, perched precipitously on the steep slopes of Mount Parnassus and looking across the spectacularly deep valley of the dry River Pleistos to the Gulf of Corinth. One first stroll around its…
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Nostalgia Trip #4: Elan Valley And On To Aberaeron
To complete our time in Rhayader we take a pleasant pre-breakfast stroll along the banks of the Wye where wildlife is in abundance and the morning sunlight dapples through the trees. Colourful damsel flies flit amongst the foliage and birdsong is everywhere. Wherever you stand in Rhayader you are overlooked by the mighty Cambrian Hills, green and rolling and giving the town a feeling of independence, maybe even isolation, despite the traffic rolling through and negotiating the clock tower awkwardly placed slightly off centre in the main crossroads. We are again struck by what a terrific base for a walking holiday this would be, and again find ourselves discussing a…
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Photo #21: First Light
When we look back at this photograph we can almost feel the cold, not so much because the temperature was spectacularly low but more because the sweep was so stark. This is Tafraout, Morocco, close to the arid Valle des Armandes (Almond Valley) where we spent a few days exploring and hiking the dusty barren ground in very hot temperatures. Yet as the sun went down, the mercury plummeted at speed, bringing extremely cold nights and the need to use the shepherds blankets left by our bed. This photograph captures beautifully the moment the morning sun creeps down the mountains before brightening the town – our breath would have been…
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Beautiful Places #6: Zabljak
Zabljak holds a very special place in our hearts, having been our first mountain destination together, ten years ago back in 2011. Most of our time on that trip was spent in Kotor, much further south on the coast of Montenegro, but for a spell in the middle we hired a car and drove up to the Durmitor Mountains in the north of the country to indulge in a bit of challenging trekking. And wow did we hit the jackpot, with superb hiking, other activities and a delightfully rural setting. Some of our terrific hikes in Zabljak saw us start off in 30+ degree temperatures in the village and then ascend…
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Photographic Memories #3
As every traveller knows, when you look back through old travel photos, many of them trigger wonderful memories. With no current prospect of travel even domestically let alone worldwide, we will have no new adventures to blog, but we do have many such memories….. Photo #3: The Accursed Mountains One of the great thrills of travel is that wonderful rush of excitement we all feel as we start out on a new journey, whether it’s a train pulling away from a major city, or leaving port on board a ferry, or even setting out on a hike in new territory. This photograph was taken on just such an occasion, as…
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Island Hopping Croatia: Brač
Some of the inter island ferry services have been scaled back due to an expected drop in visitor numbers during COVID, so to hop from Šolta to Brač we have to go back to Split and on again from there. So it’s an early alarm, the 7:20 bus from Maslinica and the 8am ferry, breakfast in Split harbour and then a second ferry over to Supetar on the island of Brač. Brač a much bigger and more mountainous island than Šolta, in fact the third largest Adriatic island; our next billet means travelling some distance to the south of the island, and we’ve been recommended that the best option for…
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Uncovering Andros
Hiking on the beautiful island of Andros, the “island of water and dreams” and the “princess of the Cyclades”