Our strange invitation
On the coast of Turkey, east of Izmir, nestles the picturesque town of Foca, not to be confused with the nearby resort of Yeni Foca. Foca itself has two bays separated by a promontory within the town confines, the larger of which houses the port, the smaller a quaint collection of restaurants facing each other across the water. These two halves are known locally as Big Sea and Little Sea.
On a Turkish tour back in 2012, we had spent a lovely few days in Foca before hiring a car and stumbling upon one of our stranger experiences. Taking in a few of the coastal towns on a trip up to Dikili, we detoured on the way back, up towards a mountain village we’d spied from the main road.
On approaching this ramshackle settlement we saw a crowd of people gathered in the middle of the track, so we tentatively left the car and set off on foot to investigate and although we were intrigued by the event ahead we hesitated, just in case we would be intruding on a private event. What is it? A wedding, a funeral? We watch from a distance with interest. We are suddenly aware of two old ladies dressed in black sat on a wall next to us, their wrinkled weather worn faces giving an impression of a long hard life labouring in the fields in this intense summer sun. They watch us with interest, probably wondering what these strangers are doing in this remote place. They note our interest, their wise old faces are friendly, their faded eyes smile at us as they gesture for us to join the crowd.
We moved forward with confidence now knowing that we are welcome. There is music, excited voices and as we approach some of them notice us, momentarily they stop and stare before greeting us with toothy smiles and arms waving, beckoning us to join them. Cans of Efes beer are thrust into our hands before any introductions are made, this is clearly a happy event, whatever it is.
There is a slight language barrier, we have no Turkish and they appear to have no English, until one young lad is ushered to the front, he is learning English so we communicate through him. The music continues, drums and clarinet type instruments are played, people are dancing, we are encouraged to join in still unaware of what we are celebrating.
And then it falls into place, another disjointed conversation and we discover the significance and importance of this party atmosphere, today is the celebration of one of the young boys’ circumcision…. we have stumbled, improbably, upon and been invited to join in a circumcision party!
We parade through the village still dancing, a tractor towing a trailer full of the children follows alongside until we reach a courtyard between two houses, we feel like important guests and are seated in prime place on the balcony as we watch the festivities, more drinks and food are offered. Literally, they move family members aside in order to sit us in the best position, on the balcony above.
It’s time to meet the young boy, we are led down to the courtyard, he is dressed in ceremonial white and sat on a chair looking as if he has all the worries of the world on his shoulders, well you would knowing what he has to go through tomorrow! He is adorned with gifts from the guests, the customary gold coins on a ribbon, we wish we had something to give. His mum then presents him and as he stands his face lights up and he has the biggest smile, he begins to dance. This is a very proud moment, the eve of the coming of age of one of the village sons.
The musical instruments stop but the music continues and is played through huge speakers, disco lights are in place, this is going to be one long party!
We are invited to stay the night but we make our excuses and say our goodbyes, we have to return the hire car. Sometimes when we now look back, we regret not staying, what an experience that would have been but we have learned from that and now always say yes, why not!
The hospitality of the people in this peasant village was so humbling, they had little but what they did have they offered, and shared. This has become a theme as we make our way around the world, if you are friendly towards people and respect their culture, they will extend their friendship and welcome you into their community.
We left that little place knowing we’d experienced something rather unusual. And feeling very lucky.
