Nostalgia Trip #8: Peak District Weekend
The long drive from Aberaeron to our next destination at Ashford-in-the-Water in the Peak District takes us over the Welsh mountains and around Shrewsbury and Stoke and turns into a fairly tortuous journey with precious few major roads. It’s only 180 miles but it takes five hours.
It’s fitting that this prettiest of Derbyshire villages should be our base for the weekend, and even more fitting that our planned walks include a hike through Monsal Dale. Growing up in Mickleover, on the edge of the city of Derby but within easy reach of the Peak, it was a common feature of my childhood to take off for weekend family walks in that beautiful countryside. Ashford-in-the-Water would be a regular destination, and as a child Monsal Dale was my favourite Derbyshire Dales walk.
These days it has become one of the Peak District’s most popular visitor destinations so is nowhere near as quiet as it was back in the 60s, but of course has lost none of its natural beauty and is still as glorious as ever.
For this final weekend of our tour we meet up with our long term friends Adrian and Debbie and rent a lovely little cottage right in the heart of the village, close to the pub and close enough to hiking trails to leave the cars untouched throughout our stay. Adrian and I have been buddies since meeting at a football match in 1986; he was best man at our wedding.
Ashford-in-the-Water 
Ashford-in-the-Water 
Ashford-in-the-Water
Saturday’s hike takes us from the village through Great Shacklow Wood, through Monsal Dale and Little Longstone, followed by a call in to Bakewell before returning to the village. Monsal Dale is one of Derbyshire’s deepest dales, with spectacularly steep sides towering above the young and playful River Wye. Its most recognisable feature is the viaduct which spans one end of the dale, formerly part of the Derby-Manchester railway line but now a cycle route since that line, like many others around the country, closed in the 60s.
The Monsal Head Hotel sits proudly atop the final steep climb, looking down on one of the most pleasing views in the whole of the Peak District. It really is spectacular.
After completing this terrific walk we detour to Bakewell, home of the tart (or more correctly, the pudding) of the same name. Despite COVID restrictions Bakewell is exceptionally busy on this sunny Saturday, its numerous food outlets doing brisk business and its riverside walk full of people. The resident mallards look a little bemused after getting used to lockdown. It has been lovely today to retrace the walks of childhood, and entirely in keeping with the themes of this trip.
Sunday sees a further glorious walk with even steeper climbs and a visit to an old lead mine (Magpie Mine), regularly featuring fabulous views across the Derbyshire countryside before descending back down to the river. It also features, almost inevitably, that bit where the wording of the walking guide doesn’t match what our eyes can see, and we end up half a mile or so off route at one point. The sheep were clearly laughing at our ineptitude. You could tell.
The River Wye in Derbyshire is of course not the same River Wye that we encountered in Rhayader earlier on this trip, it’s just a coincidence brought about by the fact that “wye” is an old English word for a river.
After a light lunch and farewells with our friends, we bring our nostalgia trip to an end with a visit to my sister Joy who still lives near Derby for beer and barbecue in the rather lovely summer sunshine, one of those rare English days where we can spend the evening outdoors without running for extra clothing.
This trip has been a real success, remembering lost loved ones and recalling childhood as well as visiting family. Given that we are still awaiting some meaningful clarity regarding international travel, it’s been an extremely rewarding and enjoyable stopgap, and we can’t help but think there may just be more UK trips in store if the travel ban continues.
23 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
Another wonderfully nostalgic trip .. an area I’ve never been to but looks incredibly beautiful and quaint at the same time more amazing pics, love the light in the sheep photo 😆
Phil & Michaela
Thank you 😍The whole trip has been fantastic. The Derbyshire villages are very pretty. We have seen so many sheep during the last few days, they were just everywhere 😆
grandmisadventures
Such beautiful pictures! What a lovely area to spend a weekend with friends 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you. We visit the Peak District most years with friends, it is such a beautiful place for walking
Andrew Petcher
What a good trip. I have always liked Bakewell almost as much as Ashbourne.
Phil & Michaela
The Wye passes through some gorgeous places…would be good to walk its whole length
Annie Berger
You’ve painted s marvelous picture in words and photos of your nostalgia getaway. It sounds like the trip met all your expectations which doesn’t always happen. A testament to being great planning, good luck with weather, and a dose of happenstance possibly?!
Here’s hoping future trips will turn out just as well.
Phil & Michaela
It was extremely enjoyable all the way through. If we can’t get abroad this summer, we’ll definitely plan another one.
Lookoom
What beautiful, green and peaceful countryside. It must be a delight to drive along the small roads and stop for old buildings to decipher.
Phil & Michaela
It’s a beautiful area
Heyjude
Such lovely countryside, I only wish I had explored the Peak District more when I lived up north. Sadly work and raising a family took up all my time then.
Phil & Michaela
It’s never too late!
Heyjude
Too late to climb those peaks! But a stay in a lovely village wouldn’t be bad. With a good foodie pub within walking distance 😊 and maybe a nice flatish circular walk.
Gilda Baxter
We have never been to the Peak District, so visiting it vicariously with you guys has been great. Thoughts of a delicious bakewell tart makes my mouth water…yummy.
Phil & Michaela
Its certainly worth a visit with big Bill 😁
wetanddustyroads
Seeing your pictures, I can understand why you’ve enjoyed the last walks during this weekend – it’s really beautiful! It must have been quite a special trip – remembering childhood times and seeing family and friends … a great way of ending your Nostalgia trip!
Phil & Michaela
It was a fabulous trip, not only for the memories but also fo the beauty of many of the places we visited 😊
Toonsarah
The Peak District would be a bit of a nostalgia trip for me too, as I holidayed there back in the late 1970s with my then boyfriend – the last holiday we took together before that particular relationship died a natural but long overdue death!! I love your photos of Monsal Dale which I still remember as being just as beautiful as it looks in your shots 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Sarah, Monsal Dale is beautiful and the only thing that has changed is the amount of visitors it receives. 😊
Monkey's Tale
What a beautiful countryside. We visited Wales when Ii was a kid and these views look exactly like my childhood memories. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Well these photos are from the Peak District rather than Wales, but yes our earlier posts whilst in Wales would no doubt have looked familiar
leightontravels
Well this has excited us because there’s a chance we’ll be living in a village near The Peak District in January. If this comes to pass, there is much within your article to keep us busy over the months. Gorgeous photos, particularly of Monsal Dale.
Phil & Michaela
How interesting. Well I could certainly be of help, given that it’s my home territory!