Moving South: Guinobatan And Its Mighty Neighbour
Accommodation in the two mountain towns has been a little on the rustic side, without AC and with no storage facility for clothing. Living out of the backpacks for a week in that level of humidity has left everything feeling damp: our clothes, our toiletries, even the bags themselves are wet to the touch. Back for one night in Baguio as we start the journey south, it’s a big relief to be in a dry environment with cool AC and a hot shower, but there’s definitely going to be a need for a laundry session soon. Nothing feels clean and fresh now……but then travelling through humid climates ever was thus….
For the most part the drive from Banaue to Baguio is quite different from last week’s long drive in the opposite direction from Baguio to Sagada, the roads wider and better, the towns and villages more regular. There’s still a fun hour of hairpins and hills towards the end, but it’s mostly an uneventful journey – well, uneventful apart from the incredible scenery which fills each of those hours.
By late afternoon we’re back in the familiar territory of Baguio from where we start a 2-day journey south to the Bicol Peninsula, with a bus back to metro Manila and then a flight to Legazpi. Central Baguio is rammed with people tonight, oppressively so, so busy in fact that we don’t walk anywhere, we just shuffle. Queues for restaurants are mammoth and untenable, maybe because it’s Valentine’s Day – there’s certainly an abundance of flower sellers pushing bouquets under our disinterested noses and lots of oversized red hearts surrounding numerous doorways. Valentine’s Day is obviously big here, much bigger than at home.
With large reclining seats, ample leg room, a clean toilet and an attendant busying herself with various duties, including cleaning said toilet regularly, the Victory Liner bus from Baguio to Pasay provides an enjoyable 5-hour trip as the evolving scenery rolls by, changing from mountains to flat rice fields and eventually to the gigantic sprawl which is metro Manila. Much of the journey is on a straight dual carriageway, the first time we’ve seen a “big road” since leaving Manila two weeks ago.
Next day, the domestic terminal at Manila airport is another busy place, but among the thousands of people, one guy – we christen him Red Man – makes us chuckle. He is dressed, absolutely totally, in red. His T shirt, shorts, crocs, hand luggage, baseball cap, headphones, mobile phone and even his spectacles are red. We board our flight and, I don’t believe it, Red Man sits in the seat next to me. Of all the thousands of people in the terminal, of all the dozens of flights departing, the one person in the whole place who we had singled out turns out to be my next door neighbour. What are the chances!?
It is but a short flight which brings us to the Bicol Peninsula, on the southern half of Luzon island (note: flight time 45 minutes, same journey by road 12 hours). As soon as we leave the small airport in our second rental car, the peninsula’s most famous feature dominates the skyline: the gigantic and perfectly shaped Mayon volcano, impressive and imposing in its conical majesty. Vapour creeps from its peak: Mayon is in a permanent state of “degassing”, emitting some 140 tonnes of sulphur dioxide per day. It’s currently on Alert Level 1, the lowest level, but there’s nonetheless a six kilometre exclusion zone around its 80-mile circumference. (That’s not a misprint….80 miles!).
We can’t quite put our finger on why, but we always like it when we end up in an “ordinary” town on our travels, an unassuming town going about its everyday business where it’s fun to settle in and get our bearings. And if that town has a specific feature, then all the better. Consequently we are very happy to find ourselves in the small town of Guinobatan, in the province of Albay on the Bicol peninsula. And it certainly does have that specific feature.
When in desert towns, the sand finds every corner, gathering in mini drifts against walls and kerbstones, blowing down streets in wisps. Here in Guinobatan, it’s not sand, it’s the black dust of volcanic ash. Sidewalks carry a dark coat, buildings are stained into dark shades, the vivid greens of tropical plants shine against the black earth from which they grow. Black dust collects in the gutters and in gateways, deep dark piles glinting in specks as the sunlight catches the minuscule quartz crystals hidden in the ash.
All down, of course, to Mayon, the mighty monster which dominates every aspect, its classic conical shape tracing the landscape of every imagined volcano. Its perfect, slightly cratered, peak hides much of the time behind cloud – also a classic scene – then will suddenly reveal itself in all its glory as its covering drifts away and for a few short minutes Mayon looks proudly, and menacingly, down on the world below. It’s so imposing that it’s hard to look away. It has a mesmeric quality.
The river splits as it enters Guinobatan, parting into two separate channels which run parallel through town either side of the main street. In between the two, a lively market does brisk business, tricycles and jeepneys fill every street, each movement accompanied by the wispy black dust which funnels into the slipstream. Every few yards, somebody speaks, either to ask where we’re from or simply to welcome us to their town. They smile their beaming Filipino smiles as they do so.
Tucked beside the modest plaza is an even more modest museum, where the staff are so pleased to welcome us that not only does the curator insist on walking us through his domain and explaining every exhibit, but, before we leave, gathering all staff together for a team photo. The museum is entirely dedicated to national hero Simeon Arboleda Ola, born in this town, who was apparently the last Filipino general to surrender to the American invasion in the 1890s, using the locals’ knowledge of the forest to win unlikely victories for bamboo spears and sabres against rifles and gunfire. At least, that’s the story the curator tells. Wikipedia has a different take on it.
Guinobatan itself is not the tourist spot, it’s the mighty Mayon which is the attraction. Twenty minutes drive from town are the Cagsawa ruins, a renowned spot for a great volcano viewing point and consequently a go-to place for bus loads of visitors around which a quasi village of tat shops, cafes and ATV tour agents have gathered. I buy a volcano T shirt because yay it means that I now have one dry one! The ruins are what remains of a church built in 1587 but destroyed by Mayon in the eruption of February 1814. It’s an attractive place despite its popularity.
Not only did I buy a T shirt, but we also ate an ice cream. Some may remember that ice cream is one of the very few foods which Michaela and I dislike (I know, go on say it, we’re weird), but this is one which even we couldn’t resist. This peninsula is famed for growing hot chillies and yes, you’ve guessed it, they do chilli ice cream, including one in a red tub marked “extreme”. As it happens, it’s delicious even if it does momentarily scorch your epiglottis.
We gaze up again at the mighty Mayon, then retire to our cosy riverside lodge at Casa Basilita. Next morning, coffee in hand, we stand on our veranda watching the young river sparkle in the rising sun as swallows dart past, taking breakfast on the wing. As we watch, there’s a flash of vivid electric blue as a kingfisher flies by, U turns in front of us and heads back downstream. I think we’re going to like Guinobatan.
31 Comments
ehacarr
Love the look of that mighty mountain – and tho’ I normally don’t reach for an ice cream, would have wanted that chilli one 🙂 ! So glad to know of your experiences !!
Phil & Michaela
It’s an amazing sight, just the perfect volcano!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
That mountain is spectacular. From your photo it looks like Mount Fuji. It’s always great to get the real feel of a place by exploring outside the tourist spots. Interesting post, Phil. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
The perfect classic volcano shape!
Monkey's Tale
It really is the perfect volcano, especially when it comes out from behind the clouds. So is your shirt XXL?
Phil & Michaela
Surprisingly, just an XL without the extra X 😂
Toonsarah
Wonderful to see those blue skies, although Michaela tells me it’s now as wet there as we seem to be experiencing this evening! The volcano looks beautiful and the town sounds very appealing. Looking forward to hearing more!
Phil & Michaela
It’s spectacular Sarah…..but oh God the rain. It’s beyond ridiculous now. We’re actually questioning whether we’ve ever seen such heavy rain last for so long!
Toonsarah
We saw the sun for a few hours today but it’s raining again now (in Sagada)
Phil & Michaela
Unbelievably, it’s got worse!
Toonsarah
😲😧🌧
Chasing Travel Dreams
I have never been to Asia but would love to enjoy views like that first hand. Fancy seeing your neighbour, especially in the crowd. That beats my encounter of my old boss being in the same hotel in Mexico – It’s a small world isn’t it? Great post, thanks!
Phil & Michaela
Ha….I think you misunderstood my text….next door neighbour on the plane, not next door neighbour from home. Still a funny story though huh. We’ve travelled quite a few different Asian countries now, had some wonderful trips!
restlessjo
Home looks good. The volcano looks grand, from a distance. If you hang around too long, you’ll be covered in black ash too? Perhaps I could have a milder chilli flavour.
Phil & Michaela
No doubt you would, the ash gets on the feet, under finger nails…you get the picture. Cool little town though, we like it here….except, as you’ll see, the rain just gets worse and worse …..
restlessjo
Wet, black ash…. ugh! Or maybe beautiful, in the right light?
Phil & Michaela
It gives the town…erm… character!
Annie Berger
I notice your exciting adventures continue by leaps and bounds! The damp clothing and lack of AC would get us down, too, after a bit. I gather you didn’t strike up a conversation with your seatmate Red Man on the plane?!! Couldn’t help but notice the mound of eggs in the market and wonder what they’re selling for as a dozen eggs here are a staggering $8 depending on the shop. The mighty mountain looks impressive.
Phil & Michaela
Eggs are very cheap, but then everything is! The eggs are good, too…they taste like eggs did when we were kids. No, Red Man kept himself snuggly tucked behind his red headphones throughout.
MrsWayfarer
I heard the volcano’s shy, but looks like Mayon’s in the mood to say hi. Enjoy your trip in Bicol!
Phil & Michaela
It’s just such a majestic sight. Loved being there!
Alison
Spectacular photos as usual. Hope the weather improves, nothing worse than damp clothes! Did you ask Red Man why? Anthony would have got his life story by the end of the flight.
Phil & Michaela
Red Man stayed stoically behind his red headphones for the whole hour.
Lookoom
A small, ordinary but colourful town.
Phil & Michaela
With a certain character…
grandmisadventures
I love when ordinary, non touristy, towns surprise you with interesting places. Between the volcano and the ruins and the colorful vibe of the city- it seems that Guinobatan is a great place to spend some time 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Exactly that, Meg…great little place. Enjoyed exploring…
Teresa
Great photos again as per usual. But those Chili ice creams surprised me…how did it taste?
Phil & Michaela
A lot better than you expect, a proper chilli burn but immediately satisfied by the cold ice cream. Can recommend!
WanderingCanadians
Can’t say I’ve had (or seen) chili ice cream before.
Phil & Michaela
Don’t knock it till you try it, as they say…