More Of Kos, Then On To Kalymnos
A number of things changed on Kos between our arrival on Monday morning and the Saturday ferry to our next destination. For one, the dull grey start turned into some glorious sunny days with blue skies and temperatures in the low to mid 20s, interrupted by heavy downpours on the Wednesday but leaving us feeling that generally we have been lucky. And, as the weather improved and the weekend approached, cafes and coffee bars started to reopen – not so much the tourist restaurants along the seafront but the cosy sites within the town, seemingly having moved on to a seasonal Thursday-to-Sunday opening regime.
For our last day with the rental car we explore the remainder of the island, including a more in depth look at the interesting village of Pyli in the island’s centre. The newer village, with its attractive plaza and busy tavernas, nestles up against a main drag with grocery stores, bakers and butchers shops, all evidence that this is a permanent town rather than one of the stranger seasonal places on the coast. But there is a third layer to Pyli, and a bit of a mystical one, too.
A few kilometres away, and considerably higher up the mountain, is the site where the original Pyli used to be, a village which grew up around the 11th century castle whose remains stand boldly at the summit. Somewhere around 1830, for reasons not totally understood by historians, the population of Pyli moved out, headed downhill and started work on the new location. The general consensus is that a plague of some kind wiped out most of the people, though the nature or identity of the epidemic, if that’s what it was, remains a mystery. Today the walls of the former homes house just goats and sheep while the ancient stonework keeps the rest of the story to itself.
An all-day walking tour of Kos Town completes our time on the island – there are so many ancient sites tucked into the corners of Kos that a full day is a minimum requirement. The imposing castle on the waterfront is unfortunately closed for repairs of some kind, but with the Roman odeon, the ancient stadium and agora, and the Casa Romana among the remaining sites, there is still so much of interest.
Casa Romana is an unusual place in that rather than leave the remaining walls at their ruined height, large parts of this impressive villa have been built up in modern times in order to recreate the full extent of the property. Not only does it achieve this, it also acts as protection from the elements for the wall art and fabulous floor mosaics which adorn the whole complex. This must have been home to some influential and prosperous people, most likely an island head in Hellenistic times.
Kos Town is a town full of oranges, in fact Kos is an island full of oranges. Streets are lined with fruit-laden trees, gardens across the island hang heavy with vivid orbs, fallers roll into gutters or get squashed by wheels. Either there’s a glut this year which far exceeds demand or it’s not harvest time yet, but whatever, there’s oranges all over the place. Or they might be tangerines.
Saturday morning. We’re at the ferry port far too early, there’s only three other passengers here, no port staff and no activity, but the morning sun is warm and there’s worse places to lose an hour than at a Greek island ferry port next to the blue Aegean. A moped rolls up. The other three passengers jump up, run to the moped, hand over cash and take delivery of coffee and pastries. They’ve ordered a takeaway breakfast for delivery to the dock. Now that’s what I call organised.
There’s something special, auspicious even, about arriving by boat into a welcoming port – a feeling which, no matter how many times we do it, is enhanced when it’s a Greek island. And oh wow does Kalymnos town aka Pothia tick every single one of those boxes, sweeping around its tightly curved crescent shaped bay and creeping as far as it dare up the barren mountainside. Windows reflect the morning sun in blinding rectangles, smells of baking drift from town to harbour, our smiling hosts are waving to us from the apartment balcony. It just looks every inch the perfect island port town.
Kalymnos is the island of sponge divers, the island of octopus meatballs, the island of rock climbing – and, judging by our first stroll around town, the island of beautifully photogenic architecture. Neoclassical buildings with angular gables, majestic churches with spires and clock towers, tight and steep alley ways where houses snuggle up tight to escape the wind – even the older crumbling places simply ooze character. Flights of stone steps elevate the curious visitor from sea to mountain with giddy steepness.
Soon enough after our arrival the puffer jackets and heavy coats of the Turks and Greeks are well justified – the Meltemi wind has overnight assumed its winter character and sends a biting straight-off-the-sea chill which seems to pass right through the rib cage. The sun teases with a pleasant warmth but the bite of Meltemi is winning, in the wind tunnels of the narrow streets and in shady corners, standing still is not an option. Flags stretch out in full, awnings rattle and leaves swirl in crazy dances. The cats of Kalymnos find the sunnier spots out of harm’s way and squat on their haunches. Felines aren’t stupid.
“Finally”, says the waitress as she delivers the beers, “winter is here. He is late this year”.
She may be right, although this is an Aegean winter and not a winter which delivers frost or snow, but rather one in which the sun is still beautiful, the sea is still a fabulous shade of blue, one where our faces can still catch a tan despite the puffer jackets and sweatshirts. As long as we hide from Meltemi.
34 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I am always amazed at how often and well those Roman floor mosaics have survived to this present day, still looking vibrant despite their age. Beautiful pictures and lovely descriptions. A very enjoyable post. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much. The light is very good here at the moment, which helps with the pics of course. I agree about floor mosaics, we’ve seen so many that are beautifully preserved.
restlessjo
It’s funny how at the flip of a switch we can go from a gentle Autumn to ferocious winter winds. We don’t have the Meltemi but it can get nippy around here. For us, though, it sometimes switches back and forth. The oranges and the almond trees get confused.
That view down from Pyli village is a stunner. Splendid isolation, for sure. If opportunity arises I’ll give Kos a whirl, and I can never resist a ferry ride.
Phil & Michaela
It was literally overnight, a virtually non-existent wind one day and a biting chill the next. Kos does give some fabulous views from its higher vantage points, we enjoyed our time there.
Andrew Petcher
I have a fondness for Kos, the first Greek Island that I visited (1983). I have been back (2010) and stayed for a few days and then like you went on to Kalymnos.
Phil & Michaela
Yes there’s lots to love about Kos, both the main town and the island as a whole. Though like Bodrum I have a feeling that out-of-season may be better than the height of summer.
Andrew Petcher
Almost certainly
Andrew Petcher
I have fond memories of Kos, the first Greek island I visited (1983) a Cosmos holiday in a hotel in Kos town. I went back in 2010 and like you combined it with a few days in Kalmynos.
Phil & Michaela
Now then, two similar comments, so I presume it looked to you as if your first comment hadn’t landed. Honestly, we are having a ridiculous amount of difficulty with our site at the moment, so much so that we’ve actually been considering just calling it a day. I’ve written but not published two separate “goodbye cruel world” posts as sign-offs. We’ll see….
Andrew Petcher
No, don’t do it- persevere!
Phil & Michaela
Hmmm….
Andrew Petcher
WordPress makes annoying random changes, it doesn’t consult, it doesn’t inform and it doesn’t give warning. We have to accept and adapt.
Toonsarah
I’ve always rather dismissed Kos as being just a ‘sun’ sea and sand’ destination but I can see there’s much more to it than that. Palio Pyli reminds me of the ruined villages we saw in Oman, where locals have just upped sticks and built newer houses nearby. Interestingly, there they are realising that tourists are3 more interested in the old buildings so a few are being renovated as accommodation and/or restaurants!
Phil & Michaela
Yes we’ve seen quite a few deserted villages on our travels, deserted for a variety of reasons. Palio Pyli is a bit too remote for a modern day conversion, but we have seen similar adaptations in other places.
Helen Devries
That has been a fascinating trip…I’ve enjoyed it through your eyes.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, Helen….hope you’ve survived the storms without too much heartache.
Helen Devries
Thank you…we escaped the worst, though the back road up to town has collapsed.
Phil & Michaela
Take care x
WanderingCanadians
Winter doesn’t look so bad with those views and beautiful blue skies. Did you sample any of the oranges (or tangerines)?
Phil & Michaela
A little bit bitter, probably better for marmalade than eating raw!
Andrew Petcher
If you get the chance take the short boat ride to nearby Telendros.
Phil & Michaela
We’ve left Kalymnos now, but ferries are a bit scarce at this time of year so we couldn’t get any further than Kalymnos and still get back in time.
Monkey's Tale
Kos really sounds appealing in the off season. You didn’t bring your rain jackets so I’m sure you didn’t bring your puffy jacket. 😊
Phil & Michaela
You’re right, we didn’t. Kos was good, we enjoyed it.
Annie Berger
Your vivid description sounds like it was straight out of the town’s marketing department! Anyone reading it just wants to jump on the nearest plane and ferry to be there, too!
Phil & Michaela
Greek islands are always great and it’s been lovely to visit a couple of them out of season when quieter. How are you getting on with planning your next big trip, Annie? Do you need any more suggestions after my answer a couple of weeks ago?
Annie Berger
Thanks for asking about future travel plans, Phil. If you have any other suggestions, we’d love to hear them as we’ve already explored South America as thoroughly as we want. Depending on the likelihood of back surgery for Steven, we’re looking at returning to Paris to see the Notre Dame, going on to both SW and SE France, then likely Morocco, Senegal, Ghana, Namibia, Botswana, and possibly Madagascar.
Always open to other suggestions, too!
Phil & Michaela
Not sure if you saw my earlier answer then, about South East Asia…?
Annie Berger
Yes, I did, Phil. Sorry, I mixed up your suggestion with Sarah’s. We’ve also spent a good chunk of time in SE Asia and are looking for new vistas! I really want to visit Taiwan and Western Australia as I’ve been to neither. Steven has been to the former and he wants to visit NZ which I’ve already seen. I think we’d better hit Taiwan while we can before China invades it!
Phil & Michaela
Yes indeed. We haven’t done NZ yet either….
Alison
Kos looks wonderful, so many old ruins. Hopefully I’ll get to visit one day. Hope you managed to keep warm.
Phil & Michaela
One extra old ruin while I was there 😂. Both islands were good, particularly enjoyed Pothia in Kalymnos, quite a special town.
grandmisadventures
It seems that you found the perfect time to visit these beautiful areas with blue skies and few people. So many interesting places and beautiful views. Greece in November is sounding like a future travel plan for me 🙂
Phil & Michaela
If you get lucky with the weather, you get the best of both worlds!