More Glimpses Of Paradise: From Palawan To Coron
As we have done every evening in El Nido, we fall asleep to the sound of waves breaking just beneath our balcony almost but not quite drowning out the throbbing beat of club music. The terrific position of our room right on the seafront comes with a disproportionate price premium, these are by far the most expensive digs of our entire trip yet are a long way from being the best, in serious need of some of that premium being spent on a bit of TLC. Cracking view though.
A second boat trip – Tour C this time as opposed to our earlier sortie on Tour A – and a second visit to the beautiful Lio Beach complete our time at El Nido, both excellent days despite their similarity to earlier days. In fact I think we could spend quite a few days at Lio Beach without tiring of it.
The Philippines is spilt into 82 provinces across its many islands, but the one doesn’t necessarily correspond to the other, with the result that you can get a boundary between provinces across the middle of an island, and you can also get islands which are some distance apart yet are in the same province. So, we’ve now moved from El Nido to Coron, meaning we’ve left Palawan the island but we’re still in Palawan the province. What’s more, Coron the town is not on the island called Coron, which is a short ride away across the water. No, it’s on the island of Busuanga. So we’re in Coron but we’re not on Coron. And we’re not on Palawan but we’re still in Palawan.
The address of our new home is Governor’s Road, Coron, Palawan – but it’s not on either Coron or Palawan. The airport is called Busuanga-Coron even though it’s not on Coron island and is half of Busuanga away from Coron town. Not confusing in the slightest, is it.
And so we’re in Coron town, wandering into its very appealing centre with its network of twisting and bumpy roads, past Sabor where we ate last night, past the craft brewery bar and down to the rather nondescript waterfront where we spend a fruitless quarter hour with a boatman trying to negotiate a private tour. Fruitless because he stubbornly won’t bring his price down far enough.
Thwarted on the private tour front, we pop instead into a more conventional operator and book the last two boat trips of our Philippines journey in this, our last destination. Moments after we’ve done so, the boatman bowls up on his moped – he’s riding round town looking for us – to offer a bigger discount. Too late mate, had your chance, muffed it. He is, however, to crop up again later.
Maquinit is the only salt water hot springs location in the Philippines and one of only a handful in the world, a strange combination of natural phenomena which sees a subterranean volcano force a mixture of fresh water and sea water up to the surface. Locals here have built circular pools to hold the hot salty water as it passes through to the ocean, pools which have long since gained a reputation for healing qualities.
That water is definitely hot, ranging from upper 30s centigrade to 41C in the hottest of the pools. Rules abound: don’t get in too quickly, lower yourself gently into the water, stay in no more than ten minutes and then take a five minute break before returning. If you start to feel lightheaded, get out of the water immediately. We are told that to maximise impact you should avoid visiting in the heat of the day, but as it happens we’re here on a dull day when the temperature is lower, and so are able to enjoy to the full. The hot water is very, very soothing – the arthritis in my joints loves it.
Just as in El Nido, the boat trips from Coron are outstandingly good, taking us to wonderful places for modest outlay. They have better names in Coron too; instead of Tours A to D, we have options such as The Super Ultimate and The Escapade. In fact those are indeed the two which we take. We swim over the amazing Coral Garden and above a shipwreck, visit lagoons and swim in deep island lakes, but the stars of the show are the remote island beaches which simply ooze the classic paradise island look. Even within these amazing locations, one stands out – the small island of Malcapuya where everybody’s mental image of the perfect paradise island is a reality, here before our eyes. Uninhabited, protected, isolated and beautiful.
In a way, these tour guys here are lucky, in that there are multiple mindblowingly beautiful places all around; they have plenty to choose from, but we have to say they make a very good job of it. Tours are well run, length of time spent at each place perfectly allocated, they’re easy and efficient with absolutely nothing exploitative about pricing. Above all, the guys on the boats work with what seems genuine joy – they laugh together, talk to visitors, and love to show off their beautiful homeland. They behave like they love their work, which for us adds an extra level of enjoyment.
And so to our very last day in this corner of paradise, and, ever since that first morning, we have felt a pang of guilt about the boatman with whom we didn’t do a deal. Maybe we drove too hard a bargain. Heading down to the waterfront once more, we find him here again today, sitting in hope of finding a client, chatting with another captain, smiling a friendly smile as he spots us approaching.
“It’s our last day in the Philippines and we want to see one more beautiful beach. Where can you take us?”
“Dinanglet”, he beams, and shows us a picture.
We haggle a little bit, not too much, and spend a couple of hours enjoying another serene location. He and his mate clean the boat while we have fun, waiting patiently while we indulge in our last day, then bring us back across the waves for our last evening in Coron. The tip we give him is twice the amount which we haggled off his price. He is extremely happy, and we are, after all, edified. As our friend Edison back in Baguio was prone to say……everything happens for a reason.
As we head back, the sunshine vanishes behind jet black clouds and the rain begins to fall, first pockmarking the surface then falling with definite intent. After all of the rain back in the early weeks of this trip, followed by the glorious days on paradise islands, it’s somehow fitting that the rain makes a reappearance on this, our very last Philippines boat journey.
Coron’s potholed streets are full of puddles, cafes buzz with chatter, umbrellas defend against raindrops rather than sunburn. Island life goes on, and will do so long after we’ve bid our farewells tomorrow.
ONE MORE TALE: Rather than bring her own, Michaela bought a cheap snorkel and mask back in Moalboal. Now, on our last day, we were hoping to find some local children to hand it to, as we don’t need to take it home, but unfortunately, with the afternoon rain now falling heavily, none of them are around at the waterfront. After a sandwich and coffee, we hail a tricycle tuk-tuk to return to base. Riding sidesaddle on the motor bike is a boy aged about seven – he’s the driver’s nephew, having to ride shotgun all day because it’s Sunday, his Mum is at work and he’s too young to stay home alone. Out of nowhere we suddenly have an opportunity to make a gift of the snorkel. As Michaela hands it over, the little lad absolutely beams, takes Michaela’s hand and touches it against his forehead. Next he catches my eye and I don’t know if I have ever seen such unbridled joy on a child’s face – he is unable to contain his delight. I’m not ashamed to say that his little face is so full of happiness that it makes both of us well up.
It’s so incredibly fitting that one of our last exchanges in a country where its beautiful people have made us so welcome, is to give back some real joy, even if just to one child.
With that our Philippines tour is all but over. The long journey home begins.
31 Comments
Alison
Beautifully summed up Phil. What a lovely end to your fabulous trip. Made me laugh about the names of the places and islands. Conjures up many hilarious scenes with a postman or if you’re trying to explain if you’re in or on!
Phil & Michaela
Yep I thought I’d mention it as it’s all a bit wafty!
MrsWayfarer
I’m glad you got to explore different parts of the Philippines. The little boy did a “mano po” gesture – it is an act conveying respect.
Safe travels on your way home.
Phil & Michaela
Oh thank you, interesting to fully understand the gesture. We’ve so enjoyed your country and its people, it’s been a great trip.
Toonsarah
A wonderful last look at some of those glorious beaches! As you know, we’re not beach people and felt we had our fill on Miniloc, but I have to say those tours do sound appealing 🙂
I love the way you attempted to explain those often odd addresses / island locations – they had us flummoxed once or twice! And what a beautiful ending, to make that little boy so happy. He sounds like he epitomises the Filipinos, appreciating what he has 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Yes absolutely, we have found them to be such lovely friendly people. Our lasting impression of the Philippines has been the variety really, there’s barely any connection between Banaue and Boracay, for instance. They are different worlds.
Toonsarah
We felt the same even though we saw fewer places than you. Contrast Manila / El Nido / Vigan for instance, or the rice terraces in Luzon with the Chocolate Hills and / or the beaches of Palawan 😀
Phil & Michaela
Yes, absolutely!
shoestringdiary
Can’t imagine a better way to end your trip than to bring joy to a child. Glad you enjoyed your visit here,
Phil & Michaela
Thank you. It’s been a great trip, capped by the lovely Filipino people.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
What a wonderful tribute to your trip, the Philippines and its people. Your photos of paradise are paradisial and make me want to visit too. Safe journey home.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Lynette. It’s been a very varied trip with a common theme of lovely people.
Helen Devries
I like those boats with double outriggers…..and glad you found your boatman again.
Phil & Michaela
Yes we thought they looked good too. Time to head home!
Monkey's Tale
It sounds absolutely idyllic, and even the boat tours sound perfect. Love the story of the little boy. It’s probably a memory he’ll have forever. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
We hope so. It’s been a trip of variety, that’s for sure.
Eha Carr
*big smile* Since I am late commenting you will be virtually home as I write. A fabulous trip to look back upon – methinks the happenstance story about the little boy was quite a fitting ending! Thank you so, so much for allowing us to come along and sit on your shoulder 🙂 !
Phil & Michaela
Not quite. Just waiting at Manila airport for the first flight, it’ll be over 24 hours before we get home. Thank you so much for coming along and for your much valued comments along the way.
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like a fabulous end to your trip. All the boat tours sound lovely. I still can’t get over how beautiful the water looks, especially in the Twin Lagoon. Glad to hear your snorkel was well received by that kid. Safe travels home!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, it really was that sumptuous!
Lookoom
All the beaches are impressively beautiful, so it’s no wonder that so many people come here to get away from it all, but you have to go back to your everyday life to enjoy your next trip.
Phil & Michaela
The variety was probably what will make that trip memorable
restlessjo
What an incredibly beautiful country it is, Phil. I’ve been majorly impressed xx
Phil & Michaela
It was certainly a trip which had its moments, probably the most varied country we’ve seen. Cheers Jo.
restlessjo
Which route home? Travel safely xx
Phil & Michaela
Arrived home just after midnight last night, via Doha. 26 hours door to door but feeling remarkably fresh this morning!
restlessjo
Good to know. Sleep well xx
The Flask Half Full
Sign me up for the hot springs – sounds glorious! The Philippine people sound so lovely. I enjoy guides who love their country and want to share it with you! And that boy at the end – perfect way to wrap up a trip – with a smile. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
The people were definitely part of the enjoyment of this trip…that and the ever changing regions
grandmisadventures
hot springs, perfect beach, boat trip in the lagoon, and a gift to child at the end- seems like the perfect ending to what has been an amazing trip 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Not bad huh….😂