Moalboal: Bustling Bars And Barbecued Bananas
The prop plane bounces through the storm and touches down safely in Cebu City where we spend a night at an airport hotel doing our best to dry out both the backpacks and those items which got wet in the onslaught. We did of course give the bags every practical protection, but rain as heavy as that is going to find a way in somewhere somehow, and it has. The damage isn’t too bad but judging by the uneven soaking it looks like the baggage handlers stood Michaela’s backpack in a puddle at some point. Thanks for that guys, nice touch.
Having snaffled a car and driver at the airport next morning, the journey across Cebu Island will, we’re told, take three hours. True to Philippines form it takes four. In the last half hour yet more torrential storms make us fear the worst, but by the time we hit our destination of Moalboal it’s made its way up country and only the puddles tell of its recent passage.
As an amusing little fact, Moalboal is pronounced (kind of) Mwaalbwaal, and is said by some to have derived its name from the sound of water bubbling from the hot springs nearby. It doesn’t matter whether that’s true or not, it’s funny and we’ll take it as gospel. What definitely is true is that Moalboal is instantly appealing. Touted as a destination for PADI divers, there’s no missing that fact once you’re here, everything in this little village centres around diving trips.
But what a great little village it is, especially the section right on the shoreline known as Panagsama. Rustic ramshackle travellers’ territory, hostel land as well as PADI land, loads of places to eat today’s fresh catch and multiple rickety wooden jetty bars in which to sip cheap cocktails and watch the sunsets. Everything is about the visitor market so call it touristy if you like (and of course it is in a way) but it’s got that laid back nowhere-near-five-star backyard feel which reminds us of Cirali in Turkey or the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. Tuk tuks everywhere, diving and snorkelling gear everywhere, cocktails cheaper than beer. The sunsets come free.
Girls in tiny skirts hand out happy hour vouchers, laughter peals from bars and by 8pm the live bands are playing and the PADI fraternity are diving into cocktails instead of the ocean. Looking around, it’s a fair bet that we are just a little bit above the average age of visitors here. Maybe just forty years or so.
Michaela suffers an equipment malfunction so unfortunately she has no record to show you of her fantastic snorkelling through gigantic sardine shoals which twist and turn like murmurations before her very eyes. She comes back excited and animated, thrilled by an hour or so only a short distance offshore. Why only Michaela? Man, despite multiple attempts, I just haven’t managed to master the breathing techniques needed for snorkelling, which sounds really stupid but when you consider that I’ve never really grasped how to drink through a straw without getting in a mess, it puts it in perspective.
Out at Kawasan Falls a few miles from Moalboal, the water is an unreal shade of blue, from the falls themselves, through the pool at the foot of the falls and along the river to the sea. It’s a fun hour or so swimming into the strong current and being carried – life jacket mandatory – across the blue pool. And then, just down from the falls, we stumble upon the barbecued banana.
Sometimes in life you come across a food which is so much better than the component parts would suggest that it should be. Put two stumpy bananas on a wooden skewer, cook it over coals, brush it with margarine (yep, really cheap tacky stuff) and then roll it in sugar. The melted margarine and the sugar combine to give a toffee flavour, the banana tastes of barbecue smoke and has softened through heating. Honestly, it is so much better than it sounds!
Still the dry season continues to confound and the rain remains stubborn. With considerable good fortune we catch the only decent spell of sunshine and blue sky on our one and only visit to White Beach, otherwise the weather has been as unreliable as a bus timetable in the UK. Each time we think it’s going to improve, down comes the rain; the sun casts only occasional and brief shadows and then darts back behind cloud; our views of the next island and its Kanlaon volcano have become a vague outline in the several shades of grey. Every time the rain comes, it properly means business, too. Sure knows how to rain here. Even the locals are starting to comment….”the sun is late this year”….”this rain should be gone by now”… “maybe tomorrow…..”
James the tuk tuk man asks us….”when is your dry season in England?”. We have no idea how to answer that question. Where would we start?
Here’s the thing though. You know, sometimes persistent rain can spoil your opinion of a place, but somehow the great feel of Moalboal has risen above all that and its character has proved to be the absolute winner. Any negative impact is just not happening here, we really like Moalboal despite the weather we’ve had, though there’s no doubt we would love to see it at its best too. Such is its vibe that each time the heavens open, the streets quickly empty and the bars fill up and everyone stays chilled. As in…who cares?
We’re based a short tuk-tuk ride from Panagsama, out on the coast half way to White Beach. Each evening as we climb out of our ride and walk towards the centre the ambience of Moalboal/Panagsama makes us smile, it’s just the kind of place that makes you feel relaxed and ready for your evening. Lively yet chilled, fun yet calm, driven yet rustic.
You don’t need to be a PADI to dive into Moalboal.
Here’s two more reasons to love it. One, the Smooth Cafe has what is not only the first draught beer of this whole trip, but is also a beer brewed locally on Cebu island. Tick. Two, there’s a rustic little place down the dead end of the seafront, well away from the centre, with a charcoal grill where they cook fresh fish. When we ask what’s on tonight’s menu, she says she doesn’t know until her husband comes home and she sees what he’s caught. No catch, no menu. Now THAT is our kind of place.
The fish which we share is fantastic, but the bad boy prawns….oh my God I don’t even have any words…are there any words to describe food so good that it makes you swoon?
Little bit sad to leave Moalboal. Could easily chill here for another week.
James the tuk tuk man asks, “why are you leaving? I can tell you love it here”.
That’s the second time he’s asked a question we can’t answer.
35 Comments
Helen Devries
What a super place! I was relaxing by just reading your account of it….
Phil & Michaela
Very. If it wasn’t for the fact we’d booked an onward ferry…
MrsWayfarer
I imagined I was there while I read your post. Moalboal and Kawasan Falls remain pinned as Want to Go in my Google Maps. The different shades of sunset and the yummy looking seafood are awesome!
Phil & Michaela
Great little laid back place….keep it pinned !
Chasing Travel Dreams
Looks like it was worth the effort. I had a giggle at your struggles of drinking through a straw LOL. You’re right, the blue of the Kawasan Falls is stunning. Remember age is just a number.
Phil & Michaela
Trouble is, the number keeps changing 😂. Fun little place, really enjoyed it.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I chuckled at “when is your dry season in England?” Between showers? 😉 I can also tell that you liked Moalboal. Any place that comes shining through when the weather is crap is a winner. Love those sunset photos.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, between showers! But explaining that it can rain ANY day, all year, but never rains “properly” like it does in the tropics is…..well, we didn’t even try….
restlessjo
Go on! Stay a bit longer xx
Phil & Michaela
If we hadn’t already committed to an onward ferry…..
ehacarr
I believe I’m pretty fair at geography BUT! Had never heard of the place and can’t thank you enough for all the wonderful photos making any and all of us jealous! Both the natural and manmade stuff look great and, quite frankly, I am pleasantly surprised such a variety of cocktails served in a sophisticated way is available locally! Enjoy!!!
Phil & Michaela
Such a cool, laid back little place. Liked it a lot!
Monkey's Tale
It’s definitely on our list for the diving, but now I’m also excited for the laid back town. The grilled bananas sound yummy. I already love fried bananas/plantains but sounds like this takes it up a level. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Yes I thought of you guys on the PADI front. Definitely a known diving destination but a great little place for any traveller, we reckon
Monkey's Tale
And I forgot to mention the problem you have with straws. I don’t think I’ve ever heard that before.
Phil & Michaela
Oh I can do the complicated. But when it comes to the ordinary, I can be a proper buffoon. Just ask Michaela!! 😂
Monkey's Tale
🤣🤣
WanderingCanadians
It certainly sounds like you enjoyed your time in Moalboal despite the weather. The colour of the water at Kawasan Falls is stunning. Love the sunset shots.
Phil & Michaela
Great little place, can’t help thinking we left too soon.
Alison
Absolutely fantastic place you found. Did you get through all those cocktails? 🥴
Snorkelling is an art isn’t it, breath out of sequence and you’re done. It does look like a place to linger longer
Phil & Michaela
Yep, every one of those cocktails was either mine or Michaela’s. Mostly Michaela’s. 😂. I just can’t get the breathing thing. Given up now. Life’s too short to worry about the things you can’t do, huh. Loved Moalboal though, Ali. Would have happily stayed a few more days.
Alison
Maybe you can go back
Phil & Michaela
Maybe…
Toonsarah
This looks a great little spot to chill, despite the rain. We reckon you guys are a bit of a rain jinx however as it started here on Bohol round about the time you must have got off the ferry this afternoon 😂 Hopefully better tomorrow – looking forward to catching up!
Phil & Michaela
Not too bad…nothing like it was back in Bicol. It’s now a bit more like we expected it to be, occasional tropical showers.
grandmisadventures
You know you’ve found a paradise place when not even rain can dampen the good feel. Between the beautiful sunsets, lively nightlife, and great food it’s no wonder you loved it here so much. But I’m with you Phil on snorkeling, no matter how many times I try it I just can’t figure out how to breathe correctly with that thing on.
Phil & Michaela
Cool place! Well, I’m glad to have found someone else with the same issues 😂
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Yes to Kawasan Falls and Bananas Foster on a stick!
Phil & Michaela
Foster?? They were good though, whatever!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
I’m comparing your fried bananas to a classic dessert, Bananas Foster (bananas sauteed with butter and sugar) usually served with vanilla ice cream. I think I’d like the stick version too.
Phil & Michaela
New one on me! 😀
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
So sad, you guys were in New Orleans and didn’t have Bananas Foster? Next time.
Phil & Michaela
Don’t remember seeing it….must have been too busy with gumbo, jambalaya, crawfish, creole and bagnets…..etc etc etc 😂
Annie Berger
What a blissful visit you had in Moalboal, Phil, and it doesn’t appear that even the rain out a ‘damper’ on things for either of you. I couldn’t help but chuckle upon reading you were both s tad oder than the other tourists, and your inability to snorkel and comparing it to using a straw! Good on you for poking a finger at yourself!
Phil & Michaela
If you can’t laugh at yourself then you’re not at peace!