Last Days Of The Trip: Ending On A High, Literally
“Good morning Sir, will you be paying cash or card?”, she asks before we’ve even got past the gate.
“I don’t know yet. Probably card”.
“That’s one hundred dollars then, Sir, please”, she says, picking up the card machine.
“But I haven’t bought anything yet”.
“No, Sir, it’s fifty dollars per person minimum spend here”.
I grin, most probably an inane grin, thinking she’s joking. I look at her more closely. She definitely isn’t joking. She means it. This is a beach bar, it’s 11 o’clock in the morning, and they want a minimum of 100 dollars regardless of what we want to eat/drink/buy. We’re both speechless – well, speechless apart from saying “goodbye” as we turn and walk away.
This is the island of Sentosa, at the southern end of Singapore, where the journey by public transport turns out to be far more to our taste than the island itself. The MRT (metro) brings us to Harbourfront, from where there is a choice of three ways – cable car, monorail or ferry – to cross the water to Sentosa – it’s a transport lover’s heaven! We opt for the cable car. Sentosa itself turns out to be essentially a succession of adventure parks, full of log flumes, pools with wave machines, luge rides and the like, plus numerous resort complexes and a giant structure purpose built for bungee jumping. We wander through it all, eardrums pounded by the Yankee accented guy running the Kids’ Club whose voice can probably be heard back in his home state in America, so booming are his over enthusiastic tones. He’s clearly in the right job.
We take one last ocean swim for this Asia trip, just so we can say we did it in Singapore, buy bottled water from a 7-Eleven just to spite the money grabbing creeps at the beach bar, and spend no more time than is necessary on this rather overblown island. What Sentosa shows though, is that Singapore really does have everything, and by definition that means there will be some things we don’t like.
It’s massively outweighed by those things that we do like. Chinatown, for instance, with its garishly colourful temples tucked behind the shophouses, its market vendors hell bent on convincing us that what we really need more than anything in life is a lucky charm on a string, its eateries throwing out temptation on every waft of breeze. This is a neighbourhood steeped in history, its tales of squalid and sordid beginnings now told via a series of plaques on the walls of its tight streets; never ashamed of its past, proud of its heritage, regardless of the low points. Time has moved on, the city has changed immeasurably around it, yet the community still stands strong and proud.
Further north is the eclectic mix which is Kampong Glam, another former village once packed to the rafters with migrant workers seeking fortune at the tip of the continent where the seafaring trade teased with promises of wealth. The street names are evocative: Arab Street, Muscat Lane and Haji Lane lie within its confines, the last of which is named after Muslims returning from the Haj pilgrimage. These days this corner of Singapore has a wholly different persona.
Whilst adjoining streets celebrate the foods of North Africa and the Middle East, Haji Lane itself is a bohemian melange of bars, pizza joints and drinking dens, frequented as much by the youth of Singapore as it is by travellers like us drawn by the babble and pizazz of the evening. Arty, bohemian and hip by day, cradle of revelry by night, it has a convivial, bright, inclusive atmosphere all of its own.
Last time we were here, the heart and soul of nighttime Singapore seemed to be the Quays. Now, with Clarke Quay undergoing some rebuilding works, it’s not quite so lively, leaving Boat Quay with the responsibility to be “the place”, together with the narrow streets leading off from the waterfront. If you’re looking for a bar street in Singapore with that perfect ambience somewhere between too quiet and too rowdy…it’s here, just behind Boat Quay. But then, Haji Lane fits the bill too. And probably lots of others in other parts of the city do too.
Food wise, Singapore is as global and inclusive as it gets, as you might expect from such a modern, cosmopolitan place. You can go for any food you like, the whole world is here leaping out from the menu boards. In our first four nights we’ve opted for Chinese, Turkish, Lebanese and Indian, but we could have just as easily gone to Mexico, France or Italy, or even stayed in South East Asia.
Any sojourn in Singapore calls for two visits to Gardens By The Bay, one to amble around its delights during the day and one to return at sunset to see the light show. Twice each night the Supertrees are the focal point for a musically accompanied show incorporating various choreographed shifting of lights, best viewed by laying on your back on the grass and staring up at the ever changing patterns above. Actually, we’re not quite as thrilled this time as we were when we came a few years ago, maybe simply because it was our second time, or maybe because for us the accompanying opera music isn’t as dramatic as the rock pieces played last time. Just our personal taste, of course.
Unlikely as it is, Singapore boasts a garden even bigger than those “by the bay”, the Botanical Gardens which is the country’s first UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s a major, sprawling garden divided into sections of plant types, sumptuously green and beautiful, and packed with fascinating histories and facts about plant life and plant evolution. Our long walk around these lovely gardens involves constant shower dodging – Sunday has brought rain and a noticeable drop in both temperature and humidity.
By Monday, our last day of the entire trip, it’s as if Sunday’s flirtation with cooler weather was imagined, as once again the day is hot, humid and full of sunshine. In our last hours here, we do what we’ve purposefully left until last – the top of Marina Bay Sands, up on that incredible platform on the 57th floor. From up here, in the baking sunshine, this marvellous, wonderful city is spread out before us in all its glory, multiple ships out at sea waiting to dock, skyscrapers reaching for the sun like trees in a forest. Singapore is so green, a city in a garden rather than a garden city. This is a wonderful place to be, and up here on top of the world is a great way to end our visit. On a high, literally.
Public transport, mostly the MRT, has been our choice throughout these six days in Singapore, we have used it several times every day. The whole network is so good – clean, efficient, regular, cheap and with extensive coverage – that there is hardly ever any need to use taxis here, even though there seems to be plenty of them around.
It’s been amusing watching and getting to know the people here. Singapore is full of rules and regulations and is packed with advice on good behaviour (“it feels good to be thoughtful” appears regularly on billboards), and somehow this has resulted in the evolution of a race of obedient, dutiful people. Nobody jaywalks, nobody stands on the edge of the kerb waiting to cross, nobody disobeys the painted arrows on the floors of the MRT tunnels which guide everyone to walk on the left. Nobody litters and nobody smokes away from the designated areas, even outdoors. Nobody breaks the rules, nobody misbehaves. The flip side is….. now how shall we phrase this….well, you are highly unlikely to be served by a flamboyant waiter or to find yourself chatting to an extrovert in a bar. Let’s leave it at that.
Singapore is a wonderful place and it’s been fabulous to be back here, something we’d wanted to do ever since our first taste six years ago. After this long (over 10 weeks) tour through such different parts of Asia, being whisked up into Singapore life has been the biggest single culture shift of the whole trip.
It’s been a fabulous trip with so many aspects, but now it’s time to head home, just for a while. And then, there’s more of the world to see. It won’t be long…
33 Comments
Helen Devries
Were we to have visited Singapore I think we would have seen no more than the Botanic Gardens….would not have been able to shift Leo!
Phil & Michaela
There is so much to see and do, Helen. It really is a terrific destination. Loved it.
Helen Devries
Too late for us now, but I’ve so enjoyed seeing the world through your eyes.
When Leo was in Ceylon I think he almost had to be removed from the Botanic Gardens by force to get on with his business trip!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, we’re very flattered by that comment.
Laura
How joyous it has been to follow your travels through Asia. I loved how you described Singapore as ‘a city in a garden rather than a garden city.’ Your photography is exceptional and your enthusiasm for what you have experienced on this journey has been palpable through all of your posts. Can’t wait to find out where you are headed next!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much for those lovely comments, Laura. We arrived home yesterday but we don’t plan to be home for long..
Steven and Annie Berger
Glad you got to see the orchid gardens. The best I’ve ever seen.
Phil & Michaela
Loved Singapore !
Monkey's Tale
Well it’s been good to follow your trip from India to Singapore! Home now for a rest I guess. Your description of the island jn Singapore is exactly how I remember it, although we didn’t attempt to go to the $100 Beach. 😊 Maggie
Phil & Michaela
The cheek of it!
wetanddustyroads
I’m glad it didn’t cost me “one hundred dollars” to read your post 😉. Yes, Singapore is probably the whole package … I just reckon one should arrive with a full wallet! Perfect end to your trip from the 57th floor. Thank you for allowing us to see all the beautiful places with you, for your very interesting stories and lovely photos!
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Corna x
Alison
What a wonderful stay in Singapore. I’ve never been to Sentosa although I’ve been tempted. Maybe not now I’ve seen your photos. Although after reading this I’m certainly thinking it would be nice to have a few days there again, to visit Haji Lane for one and go to the top of Marina sands.
Have a good trip home 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Ali, we’re home now and guess what…we got some English sunshine!
Alison
Nothing like an English summer, hope it stays warm and sunny. Still sunny here but very cool at night
Toonsarah
Well, it’s been a wonderful trip for those of us following along too! Like you I would find the journey to Sentosa Island far more appealing than the island itself (I can never resist a cable car ride!) But Chinatown sounds and looks fantastic, as do the colourful buildings in Kampong Glam and the night show by the Supertrees 😀 I wonder where you’ll take us next?
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Sarah, we really do feel that this trip is up there with our favourites so far, which is great after the shenanigans of 2020. Michaela is just working on a Singapore street art post which I know you’ll be interested in. In terms of next trip, we have a little bit of “business” in the UK to attend to with timing a bit out of our control, so we can’t book just yet. Very much our intention to be away before June is out though
Andrew Petcher
Great trip. Enjoyed reading about your travels. Where next?
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Andrew. Well, we have a little “business” to conclude in the UK first, the timing of which is a little out of our control, but as soon as that’s done we’ll be off again, with every intention that hopefully we will be off before the end of June. When do you go to India?
grandmisadventures
What really crazy to me is not that a place would charge a $100 entrance fee, but that people actually would pay that to be there where it doesn’t include any drinks or anything it is just to be there! Seems like you found the most beautiful places around Singapore to end your trip with. Those views would be far more worth the $100. Loved your adventure, now on to home for a little rest and relaxing before your next great adventure 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Ah no it’s not quite that bad…you do get drinks and food, but you HAVE to spend 50 dollars per person as a minimum. So if the two of you only get a glass of water and a bag of peanuts it’ll cost you 100 dollars! Thank you for supporting us and taking the time to comment regularly, it really means a lot and we really appreciate it.
Heyjude
It’s been 20 years since my 3 day stopover in Singapore on the way back from Australia. Things have changed a lot since. I would love to have another visit if I ever get to go that way again. Our favourites were having a Singapore sling at Raffles and the zoo.
Phil & Michaela
We really enjoyed it, Jude – so much to take in. Would happily go for a third time.
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like your visit to Singapore was a great way to end your trip through Asia, even if it was much pricier in comparison to some of the other countries you visited. Safe travels home. I’m curious to see where your next trip is!
Phil & Michaela
Singapore is a terrific destination, loved being there again
Lookoom
I’m gradually reading your Asian posts, so thank you for this vicarious journey. Your eye is as sharp as ever, both for the photos and the insights.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you
Mike and Kellye Hefner
What an adventure, guys! When I got to the end of your post, I felt like I did a couple of days ago when we had to come home from our last road trip – a little down. I have enjoyed every word of your “Asian” posts and every one of your amazing photos. I truly look forward to following your next trip.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks so much Kellye…..we’ll try and keep you amused!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Great re-cap!
Phil & Michaela
Cheers guys!
citra
great post phil & michaela. I have never been come to Singapore. Still on my dream
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – Singapore is high recommended!