Kampot: A Different Kind Of Town
The train is almost definitely not our best option for getting to Kampot, given that there’s only one train per day which leaves Phnom Penh at 7am and takes four hours to do just 150km, but my love of rail travel wins and so we skip breakfast and make our way to the station early enough to beat the traffic jams which create the daily morning gridlock. An ambling train journey through drier and more agricultural terrain eventually delivers us to the little town of Kampot nestling on the banks of the Sangke River, just a few miles from the coast.
The smiley little guy introduces himself as Pat as he hands over the key and explains the usual stuff about breakfast times, wifi passwords and the like, but this is no ordinary welcome to our new base. Pat is hilariously and outrageously camp, skips around like a butterfly on caffeine, and within the first few minutes has told Michaela she has a beautiful smile and has called me “handsome” and “a cheeky monkey”.
Kampot is in a beautiful natural setting. The Sangke River sparkles its way towards the sea flanked by palm and casuarina trees on its banks, while the surrounding countryside is as lovely as any we’ve seen in Cambodia. The backdrop is, for the first time in weeks, hilly – in fact the range is known as the Elephant Mountains, though they don’t appear to be high enough to warrant that particular title. It’s all very attractive though, whatever.
The rolling green character of the countryside means there are plenty of attractive and tempting destinations around the town and it’s with some relish that we set about enjoying as many as possible of these in our short time here, soon tracking down another tuk-tuk guide to show us around several of them.
Kampot resonates to the twittering of swallows, though for the most part this sound comes not from the birds themselves but from loudspeakers at the top of odd looking windowless structures all over town. This is part of a rather odd industry. The recorded twittering attracts the real swallows which enter the building via slatted holes in the wall and nest within the specially designed interior. Swallows use saliva to stick their nests to buildings, saliva which is highly prized for its export value as an ingredient in Chinese food – it is this ingredient which gives the famed “bird’s nest soup” its name. Kampot is one of a number of Cambodia towns where this oddball industry is widespread.
This pretty town seems to have something of a dark side to its character though. Kampot is very obviously a place where expats settle, joined by a steady flow of travellers like us passing through for a few days. There is a higher percentage of white western faces here than anywhere else we’ve been on this trip, and virtually all of the restaurants advertise an “international menu”. Unfortunately those expats seem to be mostly ageing men who have forgotten a) how to keep their weight down, b) how to have a haircut and c) how to make themselves look presentable. From mid afternoon onwards groups of them slouch around the bars putting yet more beer into their oversize bellies and puffing on an endless chain of cigarettes.
As darkness falls, scantily clad young local girls sit provocatively outside some of the seedier looking bars and the thought of what might happen when those fat old expats go to these girlie bars is a singularly unpleasant one.
But let’s not dwell on that, there’s still plenty to like about Kampot. Our tuk-tuk driver this time is Richard, so eager to please and to give us a day to remember that we are able to cram a lot of experiences into one single, really enjoyable day. But oh boy can Richard talk. He speaks at great length about the history of Cambodia, the life and miracles of Buddha, politics, agriculture and everything else under the sun. As a guide he is incredibly useful and knowledgeable, but there’s a couple of times during one of his lengthy chats when I catch sight of something moving out of the corner of my eye, and it turns out to be my Will To Live running for the hills.
Aside from this small element Richard is such a good guy, and wins us over because of the way he is so desperately eager to make our day enjoyable and memorable, how can you not like that? We can easily forgive him his rampant tongue.
Kampot is famous for its peppers, reputed to be among the best peppers in the world and granted World Trade Organisation’s Geographical Indication status in 2010. It is similarly recognised under the parallel EU designation scheme. Wiped out by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge due to it being perceived as a bourgeois food, the pepper farm industry is slowly recovering, though it has taken time and still today only harvests around a third of the quantity produced in its pre-Civil War heyday. Our tour of a small pepper farm is full of interest, including a full-on peppercorn tasting session, and there is indeed a definable quality to Kampot pepper: munching on one peppercorn immediately brings to mind the thought of succulent steaks and a glass of full-bodied red.
Richard’s tour also takes in an ancient temple, another cave which houses bats though not on the scale of Battambang, and an extensive salt farm where the tides are channelled inland to the shallow pits in which the water evaporates in the usual salt-farming manner. Large quantities of salt are produced here, the pans taking just three days to dry out as long as no rain falls – though the farmers, and consequently the workers – receive a pittance compared to the prices the salt fetches in export. Not an untypical story, unfortunately. There’s also a fascinating mangrove village where some wonderful little wooden homestays sit on stilts above the water – how we wish we’d known about this eco friendly village before we came out here, we would definitely have overnighted in these great little sheds.
Away from its sleazy centre, Kampot’s crowning glory is its riverside with a lovely promenade on one side and a whole fleet of floating restaurants on the other. Dotted along the riverfront on the town side are some better quality eateries, though “international” menu options still prevail alongside the Khmer dishes even here. We should make a point about the town centre places though: the menus may be “international” but choose a Khmer dish and they are as good and as tasty as ever – and they are incredibly cheap (try £7.50 for 2 dinners and 3 beers – the beer is 50p a go). And look carefully and there’s a handful of truly great restaurants tucked into quiet corners of the town.
On our last day in Kampot we head out to the backwaters for a bit of kayaking, steering clear of the bigger places and finding a lovely old couple who have two or three kayaks to supplement the income from their noisy chicken coup. It’s such a serene couple of hours, gliding through still waters through the palm trees, occasionally calling “hello” to someone at the water’s edge but otherwise having the graceful backwaters to ourselves. The overhanging trees which form archways over some of the smaller waterways have given this picturesque route the apt nickname of “the green cathedral”. Paddling through here on our own is so peaceful, so graceful.
After so many weeks of the heat and humidity which has been like a two month visit to a steam room, the sea breeze which blows up the river basin and right through the heart of Kampot is so very welcome, calming the heat and providing the type of respite which we’d almost forgotten. It’s still hot, of course it is, but it’s a properly stiff breeze which is apparently constant right through the year.
Kampot certainly has some interesting sides and some characteristics which make it different from all of our other stops as we’ve worked our way through Cambodia. Even down to its curious industries: a town which produces pepper, salt and saliva is definitely different in our book.
37 Comments
Joe
Given your intrepid thirst for adventure, and with some help from Richard and his tuk tuk, you guys seem to have completed a thoroughly comprehensive visit to the lovely town of Kampot. My daughter and I visited for three days this February, and had fun cruising along the river and under the bridges at sunset, biking out into the salt pans, visiting the pepper plantation, and motorbiking up Bokor mountain. We enjoyed the bars and eateries, especially the people-watching and cheap draft beer. Afterwards, we took the train from Kampot back to Phnom Penh. With just a single carriage, and a pair of malfunctioning doors, it was a train trip to remember.
Phil & Michaela
Hi Joe, yeah that train was…interesting, especially the amount of food our fellow passengers put away in those four hours. Bowls of rice kept appearing out of carrier bags! As we said, an interesting town with some unusual characteristics. And yes, very cheap beer. Cambodia continues to impress.
Laura
Oh my goodness, I got a great laugh out of your comment regarding Richard…”it turns out to be my Will To Live running for the hills.”😆It seems like Kampot was an interesting and worthwhile destination for you both, despite the somewhat cringy sounding expats. I loved the look of those wooden homestays, and paddling the green cathedral seems downright dreamy- especially with a breeze to go along with it after all of the humidity you have endured!
Phil & Michaela
Ah, thank you, Laura. The kayaking was so peaceful…we didn’t see a single other kayak on the move in the whole time. And yes Kampot is indeed an interesting town.
Alison
Very much enjoying your tour if Cambodia. Love all these photos. Kampot really looks picturesque. We also saw many groups of fat white men (is that racist 🤔) sitting drinking beer and living off their pensions, running from alimony. You spot them in most Asian countries.
The guides are wonderful with their enthusiasm and ours even joined us for lunch and dinner too.
Love your quip about running for the hills. I don’t suppose it’s often he gets a chance to speak English.
Phil & Michaela
You’re spot on Ali – he said he almost forgot how to speak English during COVID and is very happy to be back in the groove. Those guys probably are indeed running from alimony, because not one of them appeared to have an “other half”. They were an odd looking bunch too. The kayaking was fab though – so peaceful.
Alison
You’re lucky you’re still so agile, I would need a winch to get me in and out
Phil & Michaela
😂😂
Monkey's Tale
I think the kayaking day is my favourite part of this Kamput tour! Your pictures make it look like a kayak was the best way to see it. It certainly won over the fat, bald, frumpy expats!! That description reminded me a bit of Udon Thani in Thailand and the sad part of tourism.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, those guys gave the bars a bad frontage. Good little town though, beautiful riverside and yes the kayaking was so peaceful
Toonsarah
We’ve had guides like Richard from time to time, most recently on a short (thankfully) drive in Colombia. I enjoy a chat but sometimes you just want to ask them to shut up for five minutes so you can relax and enjoy the scenery! So I had to laugh at your comment about your will to live 🤣
With the exception of the beer-swilling ex-pats Kampot sounds like a wonderful town to visit, with the sea breeze and river front to combat the heat. And for all his chattiness, Richard seems to have given you an excellent tour. That temple looks beautiful! I never would have thought that collecting swallows’ saliva for birds nest soup would be an industry 😮 As for the ‘green cathedral’ – just lovely!
Phil & Michaela
Aw Richard was great, really, just enthusiastic is all. Kampot as a bit different in several ways…and the kayaking was just great
Mike and Kellye Hefner
What beautiful pictures! Kampot appears to be clean and charming despite the expats and scantily girls. The scenery is stunning, and your photos make the canoe trip look heavenly. I found the swallow sounds and the salt farm very interesting. The Elephant Temple was definitely something different. If Mike and I had been on your trip, paddling in the canoe would’ve been our favorite though. I am truly enjoying following you around and look forward to your next post. Safe travels!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Kellye, interesting town but yes the kayaking was probably the highlight
rkrontheroad
The artwork in the temple is so colorful and lovely! I would enjoy that kayak ride.
Phil & Michaela
Kampot was certainly a bit different from our other calls in Cambodia, but yes the kayaking was just so peaceful.
WanderingCanadians
The Mangrove village sounds pretty interesting. Looks like you picked a great spot to go kayaking. I love how lush everything looks. Thanks for sharing. Linda
Phil & Michaela
Yes indeed, the greens are lush and beautiful. So vibrant.
mochatruffalo
Kayaking through the “green cathedral” looks and sounds so dreamy. Great reflection shots!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!
grandmisadventures
I love the diverse spots around Kampot from the city, to the river, to the cave, to the salt and pepper, and the temples. Seems this lovely corner of Cambodia has a little of everything 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Very interesting little town
wetanddustyroads
Kampot looks like a lovely city (that’s now if you look past the ‘dark side’) – great photo of the city from the Sangke River. We’ve done quite a few tastings in our lives, but never a peppercorn tasting. And I have to admit, the kayak trip sounds right up our alley. Love your photos!
Bama
I really love the fact that the river was so clean when you went. That reflection of the skies is just too beautiful. I have to admit it was only recently when I realized why Kampot is so special. Now I would go just to try its pepper!
Phil & Michaela
One of those towns that grows on you, the longer you stay, the longer you want to stay.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
How fascinating and exotic! Never heard of this place. How was your accommodations and how did you book it?
“Our tour of a small pepper farm is full of interest, including a full-on peppercorn tasting session, and there is indeed a definable quality to Kampot pepper: munching on one peppercorn immediately brings to mind the thought of succulent steaks and a glass of full-bodied red.” Now your talking!! Saving this. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Yes it was a different kinda place. Well as ever we just booked as we went along, using sites such as booking.com and airbnb etc. At Kampot the small hotel we stayed in was fine without being spectacular.
Annie Berger
Reading your description of gliding through Kampot’s backwarers in the kayak just made me relax, too, Phil. As always, Michaela’s photos made your visit come alive. We were there about ten years ago but I remember little of what we viewed in your images and text – great seeing Kapot from another perspective.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie, lovely place (well, apart from the sleazy bit…!)
Charles from Brighton.
Just to note that not all elderly white men fit your description. Some of us have been visiting Kampot when it was a scruffy, sleepy winter’s hideaway. It’s changed since the Chinese took over Sihanoukville. That was when the bars you talk about (and many of their clientele) moved to Kampot. There are far too many bars and pizza shops now, but it hasn’t quite lost its soul just yet.
Phil & Michaela
Ha, no definitely not all – I am a retired white man myself so I know that! (Not sure at what point the term “elderly” becomes appropriate). As we said in our posts from Kampot, it’s a very enjoyable town with lots going for it and we enjoyed our time there. The seedy side is just one element, and there are plenty of pluses.
charleshuk
I was a bit shocked at my first visit post-Covid, but the pluses still, easily, outweigh the minuses.
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely
Noemi
Thank you as always for your blog which I read with interest and gratefulness, for your insights into local culture and humor:) Returning to Cambodia after the last trip 15 years ago, and with only 14-15 days, I am trying to decide if I make shorter stops at the below, or skip one, and in that case which one, to spend more time in less places (Siem Reap – not for Angor Wat which I visited twice but the food scene; Battabang; Phnom Penh; Kampot). My focus is hanging out at local cafe reading, watching life go by, food and nature. I know it’s hard to advise people you don’t know, but if you were advising yourselves, what would it be? Thank you, and happy adventures.
Phil & Michaela
Hey Noemi, thank you for your kind comments about our blog. Well we loved all of the places we visited in Cambodia so it’s tricky – but, here goes. Battambang is great and a decent “ordinary town” experience but with the bat caves, the dreadful Khmer Rouge killing caves AND the bamboo railway, there’s plenty to see and do. Kampot has many more expats (Aussie mostly) but is a pretty, laid back kinda town (with a visit to a pepper farm). Kep is great seafood and fun to watch the city folks on their day at the coast. The food scenes in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap are pretty sensational. We had 30 days, so with a shorter time frame I think we’d say prioritise Siem Reap and Battambang over Kampot and Kep. Maybe. Hope that helps!
Noemi
Thank you for this feedback, truly appreciate it. I’m reading your post about arriving Siem Reap, and smile as I remember arriving at midnight at the old airport and the shock at the crazy combination of temperature/humidity but above all, the delightful bantering and laughter amongst the officials totally ignoring us as we passed customs.
Phil & Michaela
😂😂