Impressions And Opinions: The Philippines So Far
We’ve been in the Philippines three weeks now so it’s perhaps a good time to reflect on our early impressions. One thing’s for sure, it’s been a very varied three weeks, with a mammoth city, an active volcano, a town of Spanish heritage and a two-centre excursion into the mountains all forming part of the experience. Sunshine, humidity, cool mountain air, torrential rain. So here’s some impressions after those three weeks…
People
It will probably sound a little crass to put into print just how lovely everybody has been so far. Filipinos have shown themselves to be extremely kind, ultra friendly and considerate, but, in addition, honest. Not one tuk-tuk, tri cab or taxi driver has attempted a rip off, no unofficial guides have pestered us, shopkeepers always give correct change. The arm of genuine friendship extended by Raquel and Edison in Baguio was so kind, yet completely indicative of the Filipino character – courteous, amiable and helpful. Oh, and they sing a lot. It’s very common to hear people singing without inhibition while working – “sing like no one is listening” could be a Filipino motto.
When a Filipino smiles at you – and they do that a lot – they smile with their whole face, their eyes shining an alluring friendliness. We are so impressed by these lovely people so far.
Food
If you like to be surprised by your food, then any outsider will enjoy the Philippines: it is definitely surprising. In the Manila region, the inclusion of sugar in everything – EVERYTHING – is the first surprise. There will be sugar on your bacon, sugar in the savoury sauces on your pork and chicken, even sugar in the bread mix. Not one dish tastes genuinely savoury. It’s startling at first but worryingly easy to get used to. As we moved north, the sweetness became modified, the Filipino staple of longganisa turning to soy and garlic, so becoming noticeably more salt than sweet. The constant so far is meat, which is king everywhere. Back in Manila, Allan joked that the most popular vegetarian option on menus is caesar salad with chicken – yes, a joke, but with a point.
We should also say that in meat dishes, particularly pork, there is no distinction between lean and fat, usually half of your meat portion, diced or otherwise, will be entirely fatty. If you can get over any inhibition you have on that score, the fat is as tasty and texturally satisfying as the lean. (Though perhaps not as good for your arteries).
One other thing. Maybe take note, Sarah and Chris. Some dishes contain the ingredient “fermented shrimp paste” which is in our humble opinion one of the most disgusting tastes we’ve ever encountered!
It’s been good to find regional variety and regional specialities. The lemon pie of Sagada, the garlic longganisa of Vigan, the Bicol Express (coconut curry) and the Spanish/Filipino tapas of Manila….all fun and all with that element of surprise which we both so enjoy.
Beer? Well it’s pretty much all bottles and cans and no draught, and, so far anyway, all four we’ve found are from the San Miguel brewery. None of them are anything special, but for me Red Horse is a nose ahead. (Pun intended).
Driving
Allow a lot more time than the mileage suggests, wherever it is that you’re going. The larger cities are utterly gridlocked with traffic which is why tuk-tuks and tricycles are better options than taxis. Away from the cities the terrain has been fabulously mountainous, making progress extremely slow: allow 15 miles per hour as your average speed and you’ll give yourself an achievable ETA. There are, of course, some highway exceptions further south, but the rural driving in the north is definitely slow.
For all that, it’s been 100% enjoyable. The courtesy of the Filipino character is reflected in their driving, we have never felt under pressure or tense. Michaela shared the drive back to Baguio and felt completely calm throughout. That all said, this is the 28th country in which I’ve driven – it probably wouldn’t be so enjoyable if you weren’t so experienced in different driving cultures.
Money
It’s advisable to keep visiting ATMs whenever you can and keeping your supply of cash healthy. The larger towns and cities have plentiful ATMs but once you move to more remote locations, there’s either none, or just the one which is empty more often than not. Payment by card in restaurants is not guaranteed, even in the cities many establishments are cash only; gas stations are often also the same. Keep topping up, is our advice. The Bank named BDO is recommended: their ATMs have an English language option and are easy to use. Yes they charge a fee but it’s not overly punitive.
Your money will go a long way here: our evening meals, with a couple of beers, are rarely as much as £20 for two all in; our rental car was £225 for 7 days including insurance, and gas for our whole week driving was just over £40. Accommodation of course varies with quality but again is usually good value.
Climate
It’s been hot, sunny, rainy – sultry sweaty cities to cool, refreshing mountain air. But the coolness is deceptive, because no matter what the temperature, the humidity stays high, as evidenced by the fact that our clothes are becoming more and more damp as the days unfold. Chilly nights where you wake up sweating. Work that one out!
What You See
What a fantastically spectacular country. Nuff said!
Wrap
Well, those are some of our opinions after three weeks – but then again we’ve only experienced the northern half of just one of the many islands and, as it’s already been enjoyably variable, who knows what lies ahead.
29 Comments
Helen Devries
The food looks and sounds brilliant.
Leo worked in Switzerland for a while, where most of the hotel staff were from the Philippines and cooked their own food for themselves…and for Leo once he discovered their secret…..forget the restaurant menu, he ate with the staff and loved it. Needless to say their recipes stayed on our menu ever after.
Phil & Michaela
You know, Helen, globalisation has hit the traveller’s food experience hard, which has made coming here and discovering the surprising cuisine even more satisfying. It’s some time since we genuinely felt we were being surprised and excited daily. Ah….well, maybe Cambodia did the same…
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
This is a wonderful recap of your past three weeks, filled with useful information. Thanks again for bringing us along.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Suzanne. We kind of feel we should sell the Philippines, it seems, so far anyway, very underrated!
Toonsarah
A very timely post, landing in my inbox as soon as I connected to WiFi in our Manila hotel! After Abu Dhabi it all feels rather chaotic but we expected that 😏 No doubt I’ll be sharing my own impressions in due course. Meanwhile thanks in particular for the food and money tips.
Phil & Michaela
Looking forward to hearing everything….and wondering how the weather is this morning, because boy do we have rain again here!
Toonsarah
Sunny but with thunder storms forecast later
Toonsarah
And I see what you mean about sugar – just had my first sip of ‘fresh’ apple juice!
Phil & Michaela
😂😂. Now try the tocino and enjoyed sugared pork for brekkie 😂
Monkey's Tale
Yet another country I’ll expect to go hungry in with all that meat 😊 You’re making Phillipines move a little higher up our list. It’s always been there, but somehow gets pushed down for a new choice every time. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the country. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Ha yes. Allan also explained that even if you order a veggie dish, it’s likely to be cooked in a fatty oil or even have a meat extract in the mix. But don’t let it put you off…this is a spectacular country, Maggie!
Monkey's Tale
😊 I don’t need to eat.
restlessjo
Quite happy to look over your shoulder because I don’t think I’ll be sampling Philippino food any time soon, Phil. The scenery and the smiles are rather wonderful.
Phil & Michaela
The cuisine is interesting, that’s for sure, Jo. And it’s such a beautiful country. So far.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Thank you for sharing this interesting and very helpful retrospective, Phil. Unfortunately I may not be going there any time soon as the humidity sounds brutal. My internal temperature regulator is ageing – like everything else, go figure – and doesn’t work the way it used to. Fermented shrimp paste sounds vile. Ugh. But it seems that visiting is more about the scenery and interacting with the lovely people than anything else. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, Lynette, so far it’s proving to be a beautiful country full of welcoming people (and interesting food). Brutal is the word for the humidity, the body keeps telling us to stop for a bit and take on water. Fortunately they have a liking for fruit flavoured iced teas – very sweet but the perfect antidote for the most brutal effects. Cold, wet, caffeine, sugar. It works!
Linda K
Love the views over the valley. Seems like a very diverse country with beautiful scenery and chaotic looking cities.
Phil & Michaela
It’s definitely all of that, and more!
ehacarr
I have difficulty finding the correct words to thank you for the insights you have given me during the past three weeks. I have learned an incredible amount in many ways about a country virtually on Australia’s doorstep. As I have mentioned I am at the moment residing in a place where a number of Filipinos are earning their living – they have been thrilled by the facts we are learning and the photos of home! Truly – a thank you . . . and keep on enjoying yourselves!
Phil & Michaela
Wow, thank you so much, Eha. I really hope we keep giving good vibes to you and your friends….and hope we do justice to their amazing home country.
The Flask Half Full
To be honest, the Philippines has not been on my radar for a future trip. But reading this – I might have to reconsider. Beautiful job on the photos! I had no idea Philippines cooking used so much sugar. My memories are of these insanely delicious lumpia an old friend used to make us. Back in our salad days. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Oh they love their sweet tastes. Cool country, though, if you’re OK with Asian humidity.
The Flask Half Full
Ugh, humidity. The worst. And nearly unavoidable in that part of the world.
Phil & Michaela
Definitely NOT the worst. The endless grey days of home where no weather happens at all other than grey skies, no sun and drizzle. For days on end. Much worse than humidity!
The Flask Half Full
Tell me you’re from England without telling me you’re from England. 😂 Well, I guess you could also be from Seattle . . .
Phil & Michaela
England ma’am
Alison
Great impressions so far Phil, nicely written. I’m sure you’ll be doing lots of hiking to whittle down your expanding waistline 😁. I find that Thai and Vietnamese also add lots of sugar to their food. The use of condensed milk is a favourite too! Seems no complaints so far.
Phil & Michaela
Oh yes the condensed milk is very much in evidence here too. What I really can’t work is how or why 90% of Filipinos are absolutely tiny and weigh about five stone 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️😂
Alison
Some great metabolism