Hot Days & Warm Hearts: A Week In Hoi An
The advice we’ve been given is that, when it comes to visiting the My Son Sanctuary, we have two choices: go in the morning when the coach parties are doing the rounds and visitor numbers are high, or risk coping with the intense heat of the afternoon when we’ll more or less have the place to ourselves. Seeing as we are one half of the “mad dogs and Englishmen” couplet we opt, of course, for the quieter, hotter alternative.
As it happens, temperatures have raced up the scale since we’ve been in Hoi An and at the same time someone has adjusted the humidity setting so that T-shirts last about twenty minutes before being utterly drenched. It’s bloody hot, in other words. Nevertheless, our decision making vis-a-vis My Son is rewarded with just a handful of visitors wandering around this stirring relic from ancient times. Not a coach party in sight.
As ever in places such as My Son, our thoughts turn as much to the magical moment of discovery by archeologists and explorers as it does to the ancient societies themselves. Think Howard Carter and Tutankhamen, think Burckhardt and Petra. What a moment that must be. Here at My Son the honour falls to French explorer and historian Camille Michel Paris who uncovered My Son after 500 years of it being overgrown by jungle.
The construction of My Son Sanctuary began in the 4th century with evidence of additions and alterations right through to the 14th, after which the site appears to have been abandoned. Set in beautiful verdant mountains and owing its location to the presence of holy springs in the hills above, My Son was a centre of the Cham civilisation, one of the foremost Hindu temple complexes in the whole of South East Asia and pre-dating even Angkor Wat. Some scholars have concluded that, as a site where evidence suggests the presence of up to 70 temples, this may well have been the cultural and religious centre of the entire Champa region.
Camile Michel Paris and his team of French archaeologists rediscovered the site in 1898, with much exploration and restoration work subsequently being undertaken in the 1930s and 1940s, also by the French. My Son was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1999. Regrettably, in between those dates the site was extensively bombed by the Americans during the Vietnam War with large sections of the site all but obliterated during a 7-day onslaught. Criminal.
Closer to home and just a hundred yards or so from our apartment is a flamboyantly decorated Chinese temple which has been silent behind its closed doors since we arrived – until today, when the haunting sound of Chinese music and harmonised singing drifts down the corridors of Hoi An. It is, it seems, Tomb Sweeping Day today – a Chinese festival when lost loved ones are remembered, including, as you would expect from the name, tidying up their graves and headstones. More solemn than the party in Mexico which is the “Day Of The Dead” but a similar principle. Hmmmm…the Chinese more solemn and less party spirited than Mexicans…..who knew, huh!?
In amongst the cobbled streets in town, tucked in amongst the many gorgeous old buildings, is the House of Tan Ky, a timber built dwelling which has been in the same family for generations – so long in fact that the original owner amassed his wealth in the heady days of the late 18th century when Hoi An was a major port and trading post. Now, the house is partially open to the public, granting its visitors a peek at how life has been lived across seven generations, together with a little piece of Hoi An history.
The place is a veritable museum, a rolling review of history, and yet is still home to descendants of the Tan Ky family. On one wall there is a series of markers demonstrating the height of various disastrous floods over the years, showing eleven different floods across the last 60-odd years. The highest is only just below ceiling level – the family has had to rebuild and/or renovate on each occasion.
Back to our own apartment, where inanimate objects have started to move around on their own. We’re just dozing off when there’s a noise from the kitchen area – when I venture down to look, the box of Lipton tea bags which was on the worktop is now in the middle of the floor. Earlier, the tube of Lay’s crisps had been knocked on to its side, the plastic lid displaying strange piercings where there shouldn’t be any. Crockery clinks when there’s no one downstairs. It’s not a poltergeist though, we already know from the mouse droppings who our uninvited visitor is.
Ryan – our host’s brother – is in a hilarious state of apoplexy over the matter, unable to explain how a mouse has joined the party and failing to realise that we are amused rather than distressed. Ryan’s mother, brought along by him to do Mum-type things, has no English but quickly reads the body language and is just as amused by her son’s misplaced consternation as she is by our casual stance. Calm down, Ryan, it’s fine – we’d take a mouse over a cockroach any day of the week.
Hoi An’s riverside often has a cooling breeze coming in from the sea, a very welcome respite from the extreme heat of the day which hits us every time we move away from the waterfront. It’s the kind of heat which makes metal railings and door handles untouchable and the barefoot approach to a temple feel like a dash across hot coals. So after a few days of exploration and adventure around the area, it’s so nice to grab a few hours at An Bang beach where the sea breeze is stronger and the South China Sea cools our ever boiling blood. There’s some fantastic fresh seafood to be had at the beachside restaurants too.
During the last week we have seriously come to love Hoi An. When we arrived here and saw the touristy bit for the first time, we wondered if six days would be too long to be here, yet now we find ourselves not only knowing we could happily stay longer but also adding Hoi An to our shortlist of places around the world where we could settle down and live for several months. If we ever do that, then Hoi An will be near the top of that list.
It pretty much has everything. Ancient sites, a beautiful old heritage centre, the waterfront which brims with activity and, away from the heritage and the tourism, a gentle, ordinary town meandering its way through life. With so much to offer in the town itself, and so much beauty in its hinterlands, it’s just a bonus that Hoi An is a place where you can…..
Head to the beach…..
Spend an evening in a riverside bar……
Watch the lantern boats……..
Eat a frog on a stick…….. and go home on a moped…….
30 Comments
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
It’s a hard NO to frog on a stick, but everything else looks lovely. Nice atmosphere, even if a bit touristy.
Phil & Michaela
It really was, Suzanne, we felt extremely settled there. I knew the frog would invite some comments!
wetanddustyroads
We would also rather have gone for the hot afternoon option – the My Son Sanctuary looks like such a lovely site to explore (and so much more so without hordes of tourists)! Oh nice, a riverside bar by the beach … always a good sign! It’s really beautiful … but a frog on a stick – you’re a brave young man!
Phil & Michaela
Ha hardly “young”! There’s not much meat on a frog, although that one looked a bit like he went to the gym regularly…!
Steven and Annie Berger
One of our favorite cities. So beautiful and so much to see in the surrounding area. Thanks for the memories.
Phil & Michaela
Ours too, we really enjoyed Hoi An
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I am so sold on Hoi An! You guys should be paid tourism promoters. Like you, I think we would enjoy everything about the place. As you know, we love ruins, so we would totally be in our element at My Son. I agree that bombing it was tragic – as are so many other acts of war.
Phil & Michaela
Indeed….yes Hoi An really is enjoyable, Kellye. Lovely place.
Toonsarah
We missed the My Son Sanctuary (and thankfully the levels of heat you’re experiencing!) but there are plenty of good memories in some of the other sights here. I’m glad you loved Hoi An. As for the mouse, becareful what you leave lying around – one ate my necklace in Senegal AND Chris’s ear buds!
Phil & Michaela
Really! A necklace!? We had to hide all the non-fridge food in the microwave. Hoi An was lovely, Sarah…really enjoyed it there.
Toonsarah
Yes, really! I’d bought it in Tallinn a couple of years previously and was rather fond of it. It was made with wooden beads wrapped in silk, so I guess more chewable than most necklaces 😆
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
This is fantastic!! Adding to our list and like you will visit in the early morning.
Phil & Michaela
We didn’t, we went in the afternoon! But yes we loved Hoi An and can seriously recommend it.
Monkey's Tale
We didn’t make it to the My Son Sanctuary because our trip was too short (pre-retiremnt) so I’m glad for your tour today. I actually love the mossy grass growing on its walls, making them look their age. Well if you move to Hoi An you may have two visitors!! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
You would be most welcome…if we ever decide to settle anywhere!
Toonsarah
Make that four visitors!
Phil & Michaela
I’ll get the beers in
Tan Bollesty
We didn’t have time for Hoi An but are hoping to return to Vietnam in the next couple of years & will happily visit on your recommendation. Currently on a quick trip to Uk and looking forward to some good Pho.
Phil & Michaela
Definitely worth a stay in Hoi An – enjoy your trip!
Lookoom
It’s good to see that there’s a bit more to Hoi An than lanterns. My Son Sanctuary is a reminder that sophisticated civilisations occupied the area long ago. It’s a chance to visit some of their achievements.
cengiz
wonderful trip..
WanderingCanadians
I’m not a fan of the crowds or the heat, but I probably would have opted for the quieter and hotter option too. It must have been nice to have the My Son Sanctuary mostly all to yourselves to explore. What better way to beat the heat afterwards than by visiting the beach and enjoying the breeze.
notesoflifeuk
My Son Sanctuary looks like a wonderful place to visit, especially with the place to yourself. Such beautiful beaches too 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It is, and they are!
leightontravels
I’d take a mouse over a cockroach any day of the week as well. Hoi An, despite the overly-touristy bits, has an undeniable charm and always wins her visitors over sooner or later. My Son sanctuary, I never made it there, looks fascinating even more so after reading that it predates Angkor Watt. Hotter part of the day for exploring the ancient ruins is the way to go, me thinks. Curious to know what other places are on your lists of potential long(er)-term bases…
Phil & Michaela
Well so far, with Hoi An……Puerto Escondido in Mexico and Manavgat in Turkey. Told you it was a short shortlist!
Annie Berger
Good to see that Hoi An has made your short list of places you might want to spend more time in. I must be late to the dance because I never saw your posts on Manavgat or heard of it. Will have to check it out to see what drew you there.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, places in which we felt very much at home
Alison
Late to the party here, but glad to see you enjoyed Hoi An, it’s up there with my favourite places. Just love the atmosphere, the beach and especially the food. We still haven’t got to My Son but maybe one day
Phil & Michaela
We felt very settled and home whilst in Hoi An, Ali, even with the over touristy bit. Lovely place.