Granada & The Alhambra
It’s on the Wednesday morning in Granada that it happens, proper confirmation that I am old. Here I am, fresh from walking the Caminito del Rey, sporting a T-shirt from my travels, boarding a shuttle bus from city centre to the Alhambra and feeling full of the joie de vivre which travelling the world brings, when some guy stands up to offer me his seat. This is the first time anywhere in the world that this has happened to me. I must look so old now that it’s obligatory for someone to offer me their seat. I am suddenly and undeniably an old git.
Inside I’m cursing him and wanting to shout HOW VERY DARE YOU!! but of course I give him a “gracias” and a smile. And sit in his seat.
Before Granada has chance to deliver its apocalyptic confirmation of irreversible downward spiral (Michaela: oh Phil stop being such a drama queen for God’s sake), we take a wonderful detour on the way from Nerja, up into the splendid mountains of the Sierra Nevada. As we negotiate the never ending switchbacks and hairpins, huge views reveal themselves across this splendid, large scale scenery. Everything is so….vast.
Calling in for a cooling drink in one of the more appealing towns, we wander along the main street of Lanjarón, a small mountain town in the Las Alpujarras section of the Sierra Nevada famed for its spa waters and delicious hams. We only order a soft drink yet we’re given a decent size plateful of sliced hams with fresh bread as a free accompaniment.
Like most visitors, the main reason we have come to Granada is to visit the Alhambra, which is indeed a magnificent sight worthy of the oft quoted tag “the eighth wonder of the ancient World”. By pre-booking tickets we have committed most of our first full day to an Alhambra visit, having read that it’s advisable to allow around 4 hours to explore the place fully.
We arrive in Granada late on Tuesday afternoon, granting us an opportunity for exploratory walks around the old part of the city ahead of tomorrow’s excursion. Even in these first few hours, the Arabic/Moorish/Muslim influence is easy to spot – this is a different kind of Spain with heavy influences from a different continent altogether. It’s as if our southbound journey through Spain to North Africa is already in transition. The true depths of these influences are to reveal themselves more fully over the next couple of days.
Alhambra does indeed take a good 4 hours if not a little longer, it is a vast place. Originally constructed during the 13th century under the auspices of the first Nasrid emir as both palace and fortress, the Alhambra has endured, and enjoyed, a colourful history. Within the fortified walls on top of Sabika hill overlooking what was the separate city below (now of course Granada) the complex grew into a sizeable citadel housing up to twenty mosques and six separate palaces. It is one of the best preserved palace complexes from the historic Islamic world.
And there’s no doubt that it is indeed beautifully preserved, partly due to the many different renovations and restructures down the centuries. Of all of the stories from Alhambra’s great history, one such tale is commemorated with an extremely attractive statue in the Realejo district of Granada: the story of Christopher Columbus and Spanish royalty.
Immediately after the surrender of Alhambra by the Nasrid Muslims, the Catholic royals King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella I took up residence in the palace. Columbus, denied funds for exploration by his native Italy, is said to have travelled to Alhambra specifically to beg Isabella for the necessary funding – a request which was, of course, granted. We guess that gives the Alhambra a place in American history too.
The buildings of the Alhambra are majestic as well as beautifully preserved, but there is further joy in wandering around the sumptuous gardens of Generalife adjacent to the citadel and palaces: truly glorious, peaceful gardens.
Visiting the palaces of Alhambra and wandering through what was the ancient Islamic city of Alcazaba is the object and purpose of most people’s visit to Granada – maybe not simply to walk through the magical place itself, but also to take in the stirring skyline views of the palaces from a number of excellent viewpoints around the city. Granada is built on a series of steep hills, creating iconic views from several spots – and, as Sabika hill is one of the most prominent, some of those panoramas are simply fantastic.
Despite its proximity to the coast, Granada sits at 2,421 feet above sea level, meaning that even at this time of year, the morning air is refreshingly cool. Exploring the Alhambra has been great, but it is after our visit to the palaces and when we begin to explore the city itself that the real intrigue of Granada begins to exert its grip on our inquisitive minds.
Granada holds wonderful secrets and has fabulous stories to tell…more to follow in our next post.
32 Comments
Monkey's Tale
History just oozes out of those walls doesn’t it. I love that you have views of the fortress from around the city. As well Granada looks gorgeous. Love the fountains and really love the men on the park bench. By the way Phil, I feel your pain. We were offered seats several times in Tashkent. We weren’t sure if it was because we looked old, or foreign. We think foreign 🤣
Phil & Michaela
We will be doing a second post on Granada as it had so much to offer!
Marie
I’ve visited Alhambra twice but on both occasions just didn’t allow time to enjoy Granada itself which was a pity.
As for the offered seat on the bus – ah well – the opportunity to sit a while more than compensates for the indignity!!!!!
Phil & Michaela
Not so sure about that…it’s still hurting!
mochatruffalo
The Queen most definitely contributed to American History
Helen Devries
Welcome to the old git community!
Phil & Michaela
I didn’t want to join!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I recently had a 20-something ask me if I knew how to use a computer, no kidding. I think I would rather be offered a seat on a bus!
Phil & Michaela
Noooooo!!!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Yup. I couldn’t believe it.
Steven and Annie Berger
So many highlights in Spain. Granada, Alhambra and the gardens are certainly one of our favorites. We had no idea how spectacular the gardens were before we visited.
We used to carry heavy bags and I can still remember climbing up the steps to some hostel and a young girl next to me asking if she could carry my bag for me.
And I said “Thank you soooo much!”
You should be glad it’s only your pride that’s hurting – getting older isn’t for the faint of heart.
Phil & Michaela
I know, I know – just one of those amusing marker moments when you realise exactly what it is that you look like! We loved Granada, there’s a second post coming on the city itself. Not sure if this is Steven or Annie…how is Annie doing?
Wetravelhappy
I’ve never been to Alhambra so thank you for this tour! Your photos are lovely. And hey I think that guy on the bus was just being courteous, and well, anything for a free seat. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
True! Thank you for commenting. We’ll be doing a second post on Granada shortly, it’s a spectacular city.
wetanddustyroads
I love the look of Lanjarón (great shot of the 4 men on the bench). As for Alhambra – just stunning! Love the buildings, the gardens, the views.
Haha 😁 … a young man in Malta also offered me a seat on a bus (but I believe it’s only because I’m a woman – nothing to do with age)!
Phil & Michaela
Just one of those little markers as the years fly by!
The Nepal Trekking Company
This is beautiful and useful information. Great content, such a real sharing, and beautiful pictures.
Thank you for sharing your information. Can not wait to read next one.
https://www.thenepaltrekkingcompany.com/trek/budget-everest-base-camp-trek/
Andrew Petcher
Thanks for the memory nudge. Have you read “South from Granada” by Gerald Brennan?
Phil & Michaela
No, don’t know it
Andrew Petcher
Worth looking out for.
Toonsarah
My husband hates it when anyone offers him a seat on the Tube and always refuses, politely of course! But these days I confess I accept with gratitude 🙂 That aside, the Alhambra looks and sounds every bit as grand and wonderful as I would expect it to be, and I love those views! I’m looking forward to hearing and seeing more of Granada.
Phil & Michaela
Splendid city!
leightontravels
The Alhambra is one of those absolute global must sees. Glad you enjoyed it and that you rightly took your time. Love the old men on a bench shot, I have similarly smile-inducing shots from across my travels in Southern Spain. Congrats on becoming officially old!
Phil & Michaela
It was fabulous….Alhambra, not the bus! Those four guys on the bench just had to be photographed, Michaela pretended she was snapping a statue but was really aiming just to the left!
WanderingCanadians
Alhambra looks like an interesting place to explore and I can easily see why it’s recommended to take half a day to visit. It’s amazing how it’s been so well maintained and preserved over the years. The viewpoints of Granada are also fantastic.
Phil & Michaela
It is indeed a lovely place
Alison
Looks wonderful Phil, and very interesting too. I wonder you didn’t join the four old gentlemen on the bench, you would have blended in nicely. Think of it as a privilege (growing old) 🙂
Phil & Michaela
😆 well someone used to say….getting old isn’t so bad when you consider what the alternative is…
Alison
Well that is very true
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
On our list! Great post.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Fantastic post, guys! Your photos are wonderful, and we would love to visit Alhambra – you know we love ruins, and non-ruins. I will catch up on your other posts asap. I’m really behind. Safe travels.
Phil & Michaela
Granada was such an absorbing and interesting city