Further Afield: More Of Datça Peninsula
The Turks of the peninsula have clearly decided winter is here, on the basis that there has been one single chilly day, last Sunday. No matter that the next few days were sunny and 22 degrees and then Wednesday touched 27, the quilted coats and heavy woollens are out now and they’re not going back until some time next Spring. At Hayitbükü, three guys work repairing a fishing boat on the beach, toiling away in body warmers and sweatshirts, a few yards away from where a girl, obviously not a local, is stretched out in a bikini.
Datça town, the only place of any size on the peninsula, is a town of irregular shapes. The flatter areas close to the sea soon give way to the steeply rising foothills of the mountains beyond, meaning that places like our apartment are close to the centre but way above it, reached either by a long flight of challenging steps or undulating streets somewhat reminiscent of San Francisco. Irregular too is the seafront, winding around various small headlands and tight bays, thus presenting a number of different seascapes and aspects as we wander around the Sevgi Yolu, the “Love Path” along the shore. The different views add substantially to the appeal of the town.
We like Datça. On this peninsula with its island vibe, away from the real tourist traps but still a holiday destination for Turks, there is a very appealing ordinariness about the place despite its glorious location between the mountains and the sea. Out of town and across the peninsula life is distinctly agricultural; a feeling which spills comfortably into this larger town where tractors and trailers trundle through the streets delivering produce to shops and markets.
A collection of marble sculptures by local artists pop up at various points around town, most of them marine themed, one small constant in a town of irregular character. If disparity is a theme here, then it is surely reflected in Datça’s restaurant prices – ludicrously expensive on the town beach, crazily cheap everywhere else.
Talking of which, our best tip for eating out in Turkey is this:- look for the “Ev Yemekleri” houses. If you don’t mind choosing from trays of pre-cooked meals and having portions ladled on to your plate, then you’re in for the best of Turkish cuisine. “Ev Yemekleri” means “home cooking”, and these are family kitchens where Mama does the cooking using produce sourced locally – everything is lovingly prepared and tastes wonderfully fresh. In the same vein, any “ocakbaşi” is your destination for good, cheap kebab type meals cooked on an open grill.
Heading out of Datça town, we take a tour of the peninsula’s picturesque villages in our 2-day rental car, winding our way through the mountains and olive groves to numerous tiny settlements. Without exception these are rural, agricultural corners where the pace of life is endearingly slow. Heads turn if we drive through, there’s always a “hoşgeldiniz” or two if we park up and take a stroll.
Amongst these delightful little places we find two gems – one coastal and one on the slopes of the mountains. Hayitbükü is a seaside hamlet where the gentle bay is calm and exquisite in the afternoon sun and the cafe serves amazing imam bayildi (although they call it shakshuka round here, even though it bears little resemblance to the shakshuka of Arab countries). Çeşme on the other hand is a hive of activity which appears to be the point to which local farmers gravitate – tractors roll through, crowds drink tea and play okey, a long queue waits at the water pump to fill large plastic bottles. People sit and talk, everyone has time to spare.
There’s one oddity around Datça peninsula though – there are a lot of very decent, large houses dotted around, some right on the coast, others up in the hills with magnificent views, most with generous plots of land. Either there’s a lot of homes or second homes for the wealthy here or there’s serious money to be made in growing almonds and oranges.
For our last full day in Datça we take the dolmus to a winery – in a region so loving of its own wine it would be rude not to – and wile away a sunny afternoon sampling wines made on these very premises, devouring charcuterie and bonding with the docile vineyard dogs. It feels like one of those perfect afternoons of travel.
Friday November 15th and we wake to the sounds of falling rain and rumbling thunder. The red tiled roofs of the town are a new, deeper colour with the usually visible layers of dust now banished by the rain. Apart from our October weeks in England when of course we saw plenty of rain, this is the first we’ve seen since Diani in July.
By breakfast time the storm has closed in, dark clouds turning the sea a steely grey, headlands and islands disappearing from view behind the moody darkness. We probably better wrap those rain covers around the backpacks, as our onward transport today is an open deck ferry….
23 Comments
Monkey's Tale
Greece or Bodrum? I guess I’ll Ave to wait to see. 😊 Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Maybe….just maybe….it could be both….😃
Brian Tucker
Hi
I am having trouble seeing images over the last coulpl of weeks
Not sure if it your camera or?, some are visible but the majority not
Glad you are enjoying Turkey it looks great
Cheers
Brian
Phil & Michaela
It’s been issues with WP. We are really hopeful we’ve cured it today…see how you get on….
Heyjude
I am surprised you could move at all after that wine tasting! As for the large homes, possibly Russian holiday homes? I think I remember you saying that a lot of Russians are building in the Turkish part of Cyprus so I imagine they probably flock to the Turquoise coast too. How’s the groin issue holding out with all the steep hills and steps Phil?
Phil & Michaela
Well. Last time we were here we found some terrible MASSIVE Russian resorts further along the coast, we haven’t seen anything like that, or what we termed Cyprusgrad, here. And quite a few of the big houses look lived in, so…dunno! Thank you for asking about, and remembering, the groin issue. There is in fact a story. After 5 years of NHS being feeble, and after £1300 of private medicine getting me equally nowhere, I went alternative. I had one (just one, very brief) acupuncture session before we came out, and there is definite improvement. I have a lot of faith that the further sessions I’ve booked in December will continue the improvement! Fingers crossed on that one.
restlessjo
It all seems such a gentle part of the world, doesn’t it? Far removed from strife, though Turkey has had its share down the years. I smiled at the locals in padded jackets reference. Exactly the same here- no going back! It’s been a lovely 22C or so for a while but a storm created mayhem for a day or two and the fields are swimming. It will soon drain though, and before you know it the oxalis will be everywhere and it’s Spring. We already have almond blossom in places.
Phil & Michaela
It’s very calm and peaceful out here….but Turkey isn’t generally without strife given its political situation. (Of which nobody dare speak out loud). The coat thing is funny in the Med though, it’s like there’s a definite line drawn to declare that coats are now de rigeur and everyone seen without one is either stupid or…well…a tourist!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I remember the Turkish penchant for sweaters and jackets in what I considered to be comfortable weather. I also remember the Ev Yemekleri very well. So good! That is quite a selection of wines in front of you – I would have been very relaxed afterwards. 😉 Beautiful pictures.
Phil & Michaela
We were pretty chilled too 😃🍷
WanderingCanadians
I couldn’t help but laugh at how 22C weather is considered winter! Either way, the views of the waterfront are beautiful. And it’s still nice to see so many flowers around town in bloom. Lovely captures from your tour of the other villages along the peninsula. And what better way to end your time there than by visiting a winery!
Phil & Michaela
I know, one chilly day and that’s it – winter’s here! It is such a lovely area here, so much to admire. Including the vino……
Toonsarah
We always smile when we see locals wrapped up in warm coats in what we consider to be summer temperatures (regardless of what the calendar might say)! This whole area looks delightful, both towns and countryside 🙂 And I was pleased to read in your comment to Jude that acupuncture has been a help, as I’ve found it excellent in treating my swollen Achilles too.
Phil & Michaela
It’s a really appealing area, but then we were already fans of Turkey. It has helped, I’m hopeful that more sessions will bring more positive results.
Lookoom
There are times when a few more visitors would add a little bit of atmosphere after all.
Alison
Well it looks like you found some wine then. I’m loving Datca too, maybe we will get to visit one day. Spectacular scenery. You are certainly seeing the best of Turkey.
Phil & Michaela
Where there’s a will… oh I’ve done that bit 😂. The Datça peninsula is really lovely, even better than we expected.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderersl
What a great area. Your post makes it very appealing. Saving this! Love the generous wine tasting. Thats us!
Phil & Michaela
A perfect afternoon in a beautiful place!
wetanddustyroads
I’m sure the people of Datça can’t wait to put on their winter clothes – even if it’s just for a few days! Hmm, “home cooking” sounds like the type of food one would want to eat in a foreign country. Reminds me that our tastiest food in other countries has usually been where the eatery is run by a family. Wow, the views of the peninsula are stunning – you really chose a lovely place to visit. Now … get me to that winery!
Phil & Michaela
Yep the wine was good too! So much to like about the area, really was to our taste.
grandmisadventures
The town just look so beautiful, I can’t get enough of your pictures of it. I love that you can find ‘home cooking’ in so many places. That sounds like the best way to eat throughout town 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Throughout Turkey! We’ve experienced it before and it’s always so good. Love those places!