From Style On The Streets To Horses On Ice: Milan, St Moritz & The Bernina Express
Elegant, stylish, classy: words we would all associate with Milan and accolades which this city effortlessly lives up to, with its lofty majestic buildings and wide open piazzas. By day these imposing, ornate structures tower over the streets in proud glory; at night, tastefully illuminated by well placed floodlighting, the grand buildings assume another yet more alluring pose in what is effectively an architectural catwalk.
Emerging from the metro and out into the square at Duomo station is to soak in one of THE great cathedral views as the shaped facade of this magnificent building soars above the piazza like some giant ice sculpture. The famed Duomo is in good company too, surrounded as it is by exquisite, elegant blocks framing the open square. If the multi-statued, complicated exterior is impressive enough, this beautiful cathedral has still more to offer.
Its cavernous interior, punctuated by wide marble pillars and decorated by a series of stunning stained glass windows, is a giant of a cathedral which just has the visitor gazing in awe. Climb up on to its roof though and you get a magnificent view of Milan’s sprawling metropolis, across the Galleria, past La Scala opera house, through the shining modernist towers of the financial district and eventually to the snow capped Alps beyond. It’s a magnificent cityscape.
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the imposing double mall of considerable renown, has lost none of the verve injected into it during its construction in the 1860s/70s. Its glass and iron dome above the central axis of the malls, so typical of the great shopping arcades of the 19th century, provides both natural light and a superb focal point; beneath its elegant gaze the modern day shops are at the higher end of branding: Prada, Louis Vuitton, Gucci and the like.
Timeframes for construction of the Duomo are up there with a Gaudi plan, taking almost six centuries from foundation to finishing touches. Commenced in 1386 on the site of a basilica from Roman times, the final embellishments weren’t completed until 1965 – a process which may even have taken longer if not for the personal intervention of Napoleon. The result of the efforts of the successive architects and engineers is magnificent, from the beautiful and unique marble facade to the gleaming gold Madonna at the very peak.
Milan is such an elegant city that never mind cathedrals, opera houses and grand palaces, the Centrale railway station is a masterpiece in its own right, boldly standing between two spacious piazzas and commanding respect from all who pass into its vast interior. The view from our room, over the transport hub of trams, buses and taxis to Centrale itself is another transfixing vista – fabulous day or night but even more spectacular when the dazzling orange sunrise provides the morning backdrop.
An extremely reasonable 7.60 euros buys 24 hours of unlimited tram, bus and metro travel throughout most of the city, but with just a small amount of time here – one full day plus a few hours – we restrict ourselves to what are undoubtedly the best sights. We know Milan has its less attractive quarters but when and where it struts, it really struts.
“I’m no fashion icon”, says Nigel as we walk across to catch the train out, “but these Milanese are very smartly dressed”, so committing two sizeable understatements in one sentence.
And so the train journeys begin, and even though the first is a scheduled service rather than a famed run, it is still a very spectacular ride. For much of the first hour, the line from Milan to Tirano near the Swiss border runs along the shore of Lake Como, bringing fabulous views across the choppy waters to the mountains opposite. Como’s pretty lakeside towns look so typically Italian as they glint in the sunshine and face out across the shining surface of the water.
Away from the lake we climb towards Switzerland through vineyards and orchards to the small border town of Tirano where we have a couple of hours to kill before boarding the Bernina Express.
What an incredible thrill riding the Bernina is – not just the unrivalled scenery but also the engineering marvel which was the creation of this railway line in the first place. Such is its significance that the entire route is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. From Tirano we are soon into Switzerland, and soon commencing the remarkable climb up towards the Bernina Pass – a climb so steep that the line literally spirals up the mountains, moving the spectacular views from left to right and back again.
At one point, the circular Brusio Viaduct, the train performs a full 360 degree turn before mounting the curving bridge to commence the huge climb. The start point at Tirano is 430 metres above sea level, by the time we reach the line’s highest point at Ospizio Bernina, we have climbed a remarkable 1,823 metres to a total height of 2,253 metres. Once past this high point we make the more gentle partial descent to the ski resort town of St Moritz, its clusters of hotels nestled amongst the snowy peaks which surround the town.
Journey time on the Bernina Express is around two hours yet it passes so quickly, such is the never ending beauty of the incredible mountain scenery. As we climb, temperatures drop from around 8C to well below zero: the grassy pastures slowly gain pockets of snow; the pockets of snow become a full covering; then in time the full covering becomes deep snow with giant icicles hanging from rock faces. Watching this splendid Alpine scenery unfold through the oversized train windows is nothing short of a marvel. It is truly spellbinding.
Giant peaks, frozen lakes, snow laden pines and animal tracks in the snow…cable cars and ski shacks, the occasional cross country skier and a handful of small mountain towns, the full length of the train visible ahead as it negotiates yet another long sweeping bend – but the undoubted stars are the white mountains with their triangular peaks set against the clear blue sky. Just beautiful.
St Moritz is of course home to the famed Cresta Run, so we take a short time out to watch tobogganists rocketing down the ice pathway which runs from a start point surprisingly close to the centre of town. The bobsleigh hasn’t yet started for the day – we don’t intend to have a go on the Cresta Run but we have experienced the magic of a bobsleigh run before, which you can read about HERE.
Away from the Cresta Run we head back into town and down into the valley for today’s main event, the White Turf meeting. If like us you haven’t heard of this previously, White Turf is basically horse racing on ice and, what’s more, the ice in this case is a frozen lake. By February each winter, the lake freezes into thick layers of ice which is in turn covered by enough snow to make the event a winter spectacular. In a pageant which has been held through the month of February since 1907, the meeting is a combination of straight flat horse racing on the snow covered ice and races where the jockeys ride a gig-style carriage on runners rather than the horse itself.
Sometimes there are also races where the riders are pulled on skis by the horses but apparently the ice isn’t thick enough for this particular event today. (Note…we don’t quite understand how it can be thick enough for carriages but not for skis, maybe someone can explain?).
And it is without doubt a winter spectacular – refreshment tents, grandstands and winners’ enclosures like any other race meeting, yet held on the gleaming white of Alpine snow against the sumptuous backdrop of the stunning mountains. It’s all extremely pleasing on the eye and a great event to witness. We are even treated to seeing an English rider clinch victory in one of the races, for which Alison pockets a modest handful of Swiss francs.
Heading towards the two events of the Bernina Express and the White Turf, we had hoped for crispy white snow, bright sunshine and clear mountain air – and the elements absolutely play ball with two days of exactly what we would have wished for.
Next up is the longer, potentially even more intriguing Glacier Express, an eight hour ride through the Alps from St Moritz to the small Alpine village of Zermatt.
34 Comments
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Though we have traveled a lot through the US, we are not what anyone would call worldly. We have been on a few excursion trains, but I’ve only ever seen one true passenger train. I cannot even fathom the thrill of the Bernina Express. The scenery is beyond breathtaking, and St. Moritz looks like amazing. I have come to the conclusion that we are probably not fancy enough to visit Milan, but we would love to see everything the city has to offer in history, art, and architecture. Wonderful post, guys. Safe travels!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Kellye, yes the scenery was just fabulous
wetanddustyroads
Wow, the Duomo Milan is such a beautiful sight (night and day)! And, as expected, the views of your train ride is spectacular – love the snow white mountains (and the red train that gives a nice splash of colour). The White Turf looks like a whole lot of fun (well, horses running on frozen lakes … hmm, I suppose they know what they’re doing)! If this is what the Bernina Express delivered, I can’t wait to read about your trip on the Glacier Express!
Phil & Michaela
Thanks guys – this is a very eventful short trip so far…
Alison
Simply amazing Phil, very envious. I would love to travel on that train, also Lake Como has long been on my list. Can’t believe the adventures you and Michaela have had! Those photos of the horses on ice are spectacular. What sort of accommodation did you have?
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Ali, we do like an adventure! Well as we are with others this time, it’s been hotels all the way…but as we’ll mention in the next post, accommodation in Switzerland is in you-need-a-mortgage territory. Gulp!
Alison
Especially St..Moritz!
Phil & Michaela
Eyes are still watering
Phil & Michaela
Oh I meant to ask…are you safely back home now?
Alison
Thanks Phil
Yes back finally, took the long route home!
Phil & Michaela
Welcome x
Monkey's Tale
The train ride sounds spectacular. We have a mountain train here, but it passes through the valleys, not climbing to such heights. And the horse races are a unique winter carnival. I don’t think they’d get away with that here in our mountains. What a great couple of days. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
All spectacular, Maggie!
Andrew Petcher
I wasn’t so keen on Milan I confess but the Cathedral is magnificent and the view from the top well worth the climb. Did you use the steps or the lift? Those racehorses must surely have winter tyres?
Phil & Michaela
We did the steps, you have to do these things properly! The racing was a true spectacle, well worth seeing.
grandmisadventures
pardon me while I experience visual beauty overload. My goodness- the architecture of Milan and the snow capped mountains of St. Mortiz could just blow me over with awe! Fantastic pictures all around 🙂
Toonsarah
I loved Milan even though our visit, like yours, was very short (we were there for a Champions League match, Newcastle v Inter!) But your train rides are all new to me and look marvellous, although I think I’d prefer it in summer despite the excitement of the ‘horses on ice’ 😆
rkrontheroad
Ah, I envy the ease at which you can travel around Europe – the countries are so close. I got lost in the architecture in your photos of the Duomo. And love the one of the horses kicking up the snow!
saraelena
Beautiful photos! I just love that winter tundra with tufts of light. St Moritz looks SO different then when we were there in the summertime.
Phil & Michaela
It all adds another level of beauty to these mountain locations doesn’t it
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Ruth
WanderingCanadians
The Milan Cathedral looks stunning. It’s neat to see how different the city looks at night compared to during the day. Looks like a scenic trail ride to get to Switzerland. I love how the landscape changes so dramatically. Those are some majestic looking snow-capped mountains. I never knew that horse racing on ice was a thing.
Phil & Michaela
Nor did we before now!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Beautiful.
leightontravels
The architecture of Milan is exquisite, one marvellous structure after another. The scenery on your train ride is absolutely stunning, a once in a lifetime experience (if you are lucky). I love the horse race photos and the shots of you on the Duomo roof.
Heyjude
Exquisite photos Michaela, especially those of the White Turf. What camera equipment do you use? And you both must have really felt the cold after coming back from the heat and humidity!
Phil & Michaela
We certainly did, that’s what you call a contrast! Michaela doesn’t use massively technical or advanced equipment … but is very happy with her Panasonic DC-TZ90 which is what she uses for everything except when she uses the iphone. The Panasonic’s “burst” function is particularly useful for animal and bird shots like these horse shots.
Heyjude
She doesn’t need anything else as her photo eye and skill is very good.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, Jude…she is very flattered
Lookoom
The photos of Milan remind me that I should make another visit there, I had stopped there too briefly one morning, the Galleria was still deserted. Nice pictures of the White Turf!
Annie Berger
Stunning doesn’t begin to do justice to Michaela’s photos and your descriptions of Milan, the Bernina Express, and the white Turf races – just gobsmacked as I am so often reading your post, Phil. I lived in Geneva for a year way back when but I’d never heard of the White Turf.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much Annie, those are big compliments, very much appreciated. The White Turf event was a real spectacle, definitely worth a visit…something different..
Image Earth Travel
The height of the train ride reminds me of Tren a las Nubes in Argentina – spectacular.
I haven’t visited Milan since 1985 and imagine massive changes over the decades, but the Duomo always remains the same.
Phil & Michaela
It’s a train ride well worth doing, one of the world’s great ones.