El Nido: Paradise Lost, Then Paradise Regained
There are bars in El Nido with bean bags. There’s a point in life when, and for me it was probably around ten years ago, bean bags become a no go area, impossible to get down to, impossible to get up from, impossible to enjoy beer in whilst perched there like a sleeping dog in a favourite basket. The fact there are bean bags here should be a warning: El Nido is a young person’s place.
Both Boracay and El Nido describe themselves as paradise locations – maybe somebody somewhere would attach that particular moniker to the town of El Nido but, as we saunter through the streets here, it’s quickly obvious that there must be at least two types of paradise. Whilst not in the same wild bracket as the likes of Falaraki or Agia Napa, El Nido is a destination for hedonistic young things seeking to sleep all day and party till 4am at venues where the bass line of techno music throbs its way through town and out to sea.
During the day it’s a reasonably pleasurable if ramshackle town with cafes, souvenir shops and beach life; after dark it assumes much more of a party vibe in which the bean bag brigade, all mermaid hair, tattoos and enviously slender bodies, emerge from wherever they’ve been sleeping all day in order to enjoy another night of revelry and indulgence. It’s like we’re no longer in the Philippines: El Nido could be a party town in any of several dozen countries, so much so that pasta has replaced rice as the staple starch, unthinkable elsewhere in the Philippines.
The sumptuous natural bay sweeping in front of El Nido is so totally rammed with tour boats that it resembles a kind of waterborne Sainsbury’s car park. Around half of these boats disappear for a chunk of the day for island tours on which those young things who choose not to sleep all day will be doing something more worthwhile. These tours are the main reason we’re here too, the karst limestone island scenery promises to be a real spectacle.
Friday brings our first such boat tour, and, as you might expect in a town so dominated by the tourist market, it’s well organised and well patronised. In fact, the 9am scene on El Nido beach is highly amusing. No matter where you buy your trip – there are four trip routes labelled A to D – you assemble on the beach as instructed, ready to board your particular boat. There are, literally, hundreds of us waiting for the next instruction, so concentrated on one section of sand that the beach looks like a concert or sports crowd just before the gates open. Nattily T-shirted controllers bring order to chaos and pretty quickly everybody is on the correct boat, although not before everyone has had to wade waist deep to reach whichever boat they’ve been allocated – the look on the faces of those who have arrived ill prepared in the wardrobe department is priceless. And with that, several dozen boats head off in each of the four directions.
Remote island beaches and deep swimming coves follow, plus an opportunity to kayak through the waves into the “Big Lagoon”, an exercise which by itself is worth the fee paid for the day (which incidentally is incredibly reasonable). It is so enjoyable, paddling peacefully across the lagoon surrounded by amazing scenery, occasionally leaving the kayak to wade in warm water and gaze at stunning rock formations. Paddling back to the boat against the incoming waves is a bit of a tester for those of us not as young as the bean baggers, but still scores high on the fun-o-meter.
The limestone karst islands are majestic and magnificent, a little reminiscent of Ha Long Bay, soaring more or less vertically from the sea, ridged and painted by erosion. Weaving between these isolated towering rocks it becomes very easy to understand that the Philippines is made up of over 7,000 islands, just in this one area off Palawan there are too many to count, every one of them a stunning sight.
As if kayaking through choppy seas and then later swimming against the incoming tide to get back to the boat isn’t exercise enough, we then get taken to our final call of the tour, the Secret Lagoon. No surprise it’s called secret, the only way in is to clamber up and over large rugged rocks in the water and squeeze through a gap so tiny that either knee or head – or both – can get gouged. And then you have to find a way to drop into the waist deep water on the other side without drawing blood as you skid down the rock.
At this rate, with all this abnormal exercise and testing of usually dormant muscles, I’m going to be able to clamber in and out of a bean bag tonight. No, maybe not ready for that.
What we really are ready for after our day is a couple of cold beers, some of which we enjoy as the sun drops behind the islands, some with a Polish couple we met on the boat, as around us the trendy bars once again ramp up the volume of the techno music and another El Nido night begins. As we head for our midnight bed, the bright young things from Planet Gap Year head out to where the beat thumps loudest.
We’ve rapidly reached the conclusion that while the karst island scenery is fantastic and absolutely everything we wanted it to be, El Nido itself is not our idea of paradise and not quite the beautiful coastal scene for which Palawan is renowned. Then, just as we think our conclusions are final, paradise is regained simply by taking a 15-minute tuk-tuk ride to Lio Beach.
Until fairly recently we wouldn’t have called ourselves big beach people, but over the last couple of years we’ve come to appreciate the value of the occasional rest period within longer term travel. And, honestly, it would be hard to picture anywhere better than Lio Beach. A huge perfect crescent of a bay, sea which is flat calm, crystal clear and as warm as bath water, bars, restaurants and lodgings all hidden in the trees just behind the beach – and all just a little bit, but not too much, upscale.
We vow here and now that if we ever hit a point where we just want two weeks of idyll without moving too far from our base, it will be to Lio Beach that we head. It is just simply beautiful. Funny how in a town which we were just feeling was over touristed, we find the absolutely perfect retreat just a stone’s throw away. You never know what may just lay down the next road or round the next corner.
So, we came to Palawan having been told it is the best of the Philippines and therefore having high expectations. We loved Puerto Princesa, love the karst limestone islands, can take or leave El Nido, but now at Lio Beach we have found exactly what it is that gives Palawan its exotic reputation. Or to put it another way….
Love Princesa, so love Lio
But there ain’t no way we’ll ever love El Nido..
Now don’t be sad
‘Cos two out o’ three ain’t bad….
37 Comments
Eha Carr
Am sitting post-lunch, laughing at you laughing and . . . well, the photos tell the story . . . the real, true and special beauty of nature, both land and sea . . . and the ‘Hang Over Grill’ and ‘Street Grub’ manmade tale only acceptable when the lights go on and the drinks get poured . . , a balance to be remembered . . . thanks!
Phil & Michaela
Yep, the beach was wonderful, the town a bit too “young” for us.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
This area seems absolutely gorgeous but I agree with you about the bean bag seats (I always found those horribly uncomfortable even when I was in excellent youthful and military-driven shape), loud, loud music that goes on all night and crowded, touristy places. Glad you found a nearby alternative where you could really enjoy the beautiful ocean and beach. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
As you can tell, the town wasn’t really our cup of tea, but then finding Lio Beach….well….something else!
Lookoom
I’d already heard about the romantic names of the excursions (A to D), I’d seen photos of Lio Beach near the airport, but your article brings it much more to life.
Phil & Michaela
Beautiful paradise location even if the town didn’t tick our boxes.
MrsWayfarer
That sunset shot and the colors of the water were amazing! My 2 favorite spots in El Nido are Lio Beach and Duli Beach (much farther and hopefully still more remote).
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely loved Lio Beach, truly a paradise location!
restlessjo
There’s nothing quite like making folks green with envy, is there? And I’m not talking skinned knees- I can manage that here. The karst islands are breathtaking xx
Phil & Michaela
Lio Beach really is a lovely location, the town maybe not so, for us anyway.
WanderingCanadians
The limestone karst islands are incredibly scenic. And what a beautiful sunset at Lio Beach. I don’t think I’d enjoy the party scene at night or those bean bag chairs either!
Phil & Michaela
We’re singing from the same hymn sheet then 😊
Heyjude
This is so not my scene, maybe 50 years ago! But that Lio sunset is stunning.
Phil & Michaela
Lio Beach was a beautiful location, Jude…but yeah the town wasn’t our cup of tea, far too young a scene for us. The boat trips were good though so the rough was worth it for the smooth.
Toonsarah
We quite enjoyed our one night in El Nido but one was enough! We didn’t have time to visit Lio Beach but it was from there that we caught the boat to Miniloc (and returned) and from what I saw your description is spot on, it looked beautiful! Yes, the scenery here reminded me of Ha Long Bay too, and I was pleased to see it in much better weather than we had there 🙂
Phil & Michaela
El Nido gets pretty lively at night, all a bit “young” for the likes of us! Still a very good few days though.
Toonsarah
Yes, we were the oldest people in that bar by several decades I reckon, and yet that was early evening and relatively quiet!
Monkey's Tale
Was that on the kayak light then, not the dashboard light? Thanks for the heads up, we’ve been to too many El Nidos and don’t need another. Although the Karst islands are gorgeous, and remind me of Railay or Phang Na, they are tempting. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Boat trips were good, Lio Beach beautiful, El Nido hmmmm. Yep, I guess it’s paradise by the tuk tuk light 😂😂😂.
Christie
Island hopping sounds like fun with all that beautiful scenery around! A deserving Lio Beach, where you can truly relax, especially after so many adventures in El Nido😊
Phil & Michaela
Lio was just stunning and we’d be happy to return if we ever need a bit of R&R for a while.
normareadtalktalknet
Absolutely stunning … amazing colours …
Phil & Michaela
Beautiful beach, terrific sunset…..
Annie Berger
Another vastly amusing tale, Phil, about the young and hearty bean baggers, the ill-prepared boat trippers, and the adventures kayaking to and from the boat. let alone the hazards of getting gouged as part of the fun! Sounds like you found your happy place after all!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie…yep, Lio Beach was just gorgeous. Happy place indeed!
The Flask Half Full
Bean bag brigade – great turn of phrase, Phil. And agree wholeheartedly about the bean bags. I got stuck in one at a bar in Mykonos a couple of years ago. From then on, my motto when faced with bean bags is, thanks, I’ll stand. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Now I’m picturing you stuck in a bean bag 😂.
The Flask Half Full
It was a sight. Fell into the “I’m too old for this shit” category! We were the oldest people at the bar by decades!!
Phil & Michaela
A feeling we have mirrored this week.
grandmisadventures
haha, Planet Gap Year and bean baggers is a pretty fantastic description of a party scene that is so not my scene. But Lio Beach- now that’s the kind of paradise I would be in for 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Couldn’t agree more. Like we said, if ever we fancy a couple of weeks of just simply R&R, we would definitely consider returning there.
Helen Devries
The boat trips sounded wonderful….and would like to have seen the expressions of those unprepared for the embarcation process….mark you, from the sound of it, anything would be worth escaping El Nido….yes, I know, I’m old and past it.
Phil & Michaela
Oh you and me both, Helen. Mind you, I’m not really sure I really ever was that kind of person, in truth. But what with the boat trips and Lio Beach, we found a way to enjoy it! (Oh, and the booze was cheap 😂)
Alison
You’re too funny Phil, I winced while reading about the head gouging and drop and slide down a rock into the ocean. El Nido sounds like so many of these holiday islands nowadays. Everywhere is accessible now. Lio Beach lóoks stunning. The beanbags are everywhere in Bali too and I can tell you they don’t smell that great either!
Phil & Michaela
Too funny….I’ll take that as a compliment 😂. I’m not putting sniffing bean bags on my wish list….
Alison
Haha you wouldn’t need to ..it’s after you’ve plonked yourself into one it’s noticeable
Phil & Michaela
Eeeuuuuggghh