Geçitköy Lake in Northern Cypruss
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Dubious Saints, Mutant Sheep & Castles In The Air: Cyprus Unfolds

October 19, 2023 /

The downpour is so intense that we don’t really want to leave the boat, but we have to get back to the apartment somehow so it’s heads down and off into the onslaught.

“Goodbye”, shouts Captain Bayram as we head off, adding, “remember, tomorrow there is worse rain, very bad”.

He isn’t kidding either. By the time we return next day from a rather fruitless trip on the dolmus out to Lapta village, the streets of Girne are rivers, floodwater several inches deep racing down every slope and finding every shortcut through town. It’s an outrageous deluge which lasts for hours and has locals laughing and scurrying for cover in equal measure. Ruined shoes for everyone.

Heavy rain and flooded roads in Kyrenia Cyprus
Heavy rain and flooded roads in Kyrenia Cyprus
Flooded streets of Girne

A little while later, watching the rain fall from our 8th floor apartment window, we get a little bit of that unwelcome end-of-trip, winding-down feeling, so it’s just as well that next morning sees us collecting our final hire car of the adventure in readiness to explore this part of the world more fully. The sun makes a return, too.

Our first road trip takes us westward from Girne, along the coast and towards the northern end of the island’s partition, a journey which leaves the Pentadaktylos (Five Fingers) Mountains of Girne’s hinterland and heads into the Troodos Mountains which straddle the Green Line, although both sections form part of the Kyrenia mountain range. Driving here has a strange additional element: what is a direct route according to Google Maps sometimes turns out to cross military territory and our way forward is blocked by soldiers, gun cocked and ready to shoot, standing beside a sign which reads “Forbidden Zone”. It’s just slightly unnerving.

Mountains in North Cyprus
Mountain views
View of Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus
Looking down on Girne

First though, resort hotels and private beach clubs line the coast road in an unattractive procession of those places which provide “enclave” holidays for the less adventurous, much English language in evidence on their giant signage. It takes a while before these subside and the massively more attractive coastline and countryside begins to open up.

lake of Geçitköy Northern Cyprus
Geçitköy lake

The impossibly blue manmade lake of Geçitköy nestles half way up the climb over the Troodos, a beautiful sight which has us lingering on the edge of the ridge for several minutes taking in the splendid view. Just beyond the relaxing coastal village of Gemikonagi are the remains of the city of Soli, an ancient Greek settlement later occupied by the Romans which now boasts a couple of very worthwhile sights.

lake of Geçitköy Northern Cyprus
Geçitköy lake

As floor mosaics go, those at Soli are amazingly well preserved, covering a surprisingly large area and retaining easily identifiable imagery, including the swan logo much loved in Roman design. It’s incredible how well these mosaics have withstood all that has come their way, not least warfare and earthquakes. They really are stunning. Behind and above the remains of the city, the amphitheatre, built by the Greeks and enhanced in Roman times, has wonderful views of the Mediterranean as the backdrop to its stage.

Amphitheatre in the Roman city of Soli in Northern Cyprus
Amphitheatre at Soli
Mosaics in the Roman city of Soli in Northern Cyprus
Mosaics in the Roman city of Soli in Northern Cyprus
Soli floor mosaics

A few miles further on, and higher still up the mountains, are the remains of Vouni Palace, a once expansive construction built to enable the wary Phoenicians to keep an eye on what the troublesome Greeks of Soli were up to – this island seems to have an unbroken history of confrontation and mistrust. Pretty much all that remains of Vouni are its foundations and lower levels of walls, but helpful signage provides a decent commentary on each area and enables us to picture the palace in its pomp. If nothing else, it’s well worth a visit to Vouni just to soak up the fabulous views of the seas in one direction and the mountains in the other. 

View from Vouni Palace in Northern Cyprus
View from Vouni palace
Vouni Palace in Northern Cyprus
Vouni palace
Vouni Palace in Northern Cyprus
Vouni Palace in Northern Cyprus
Vouni palace

View from Vouni Palace in Northern Cyprus
View from Vouni palace

Heading back towards Girne we call in at Güzelyurt (Greek name Morfou), home to a slightly odd museum and a remarkable little church, they’re both just closing as we arrive but with a smile and a plea we manage to get the curator to grab the keys and let us in. Inside the church, carved wooden panelling painted blue and gold depicts many scenes, again extremely well preserved and beautifully presented.

St Mamas church in Güzelyurt Northern Cyprus
St Mamas, Güzelyurt
St Mamas church in Güzelyurt Northern Cyprus
St Mamas church in Güzelyurt Northern Cyprus
St Mamas, Güzelyurt

St Mamas church in Güzelyurt Northern Cyprus
St Mamas, Güzelyurt

The church is one of fourteen in Cyprus alone which are dedicated to St Mamas, who, according to the museum’s own leaflet but not corroborated by Wikipedia, is the patron saint of tax avoiders. Amusing that there should be such a saint of Greek origin, given that to this day Greece suffers from a ridiculously inept tax collection system with more loopholes than a fishing net. Mamas has obviously done a decent job protecting his subjects. The museum meanwhile is mostly dedicated to artefacts from nearby Soli and also Salamis on the other coast, but in addition has a natural history room where in amongst the usual stuffed birds and mammals are a couple of bizarre mutant sheep. A sheep with two heads… another one with two bodies and eight legs? Are they real? Why are they here? What is their history? We have been unsuccessful in finding answers to such questions.

Mutant sheep in Güzelyurt museum in Northern Cyprus
Mutant sheep in Güzelyurt museum in Northern Cyprus

Second road trip day takes in two villages, each picturesque in their own right but of very different character to each other. Karaman (aka Karmi) is a tranquil, genteel mountain village which must be a little piece of heaven for those seeking a bit of solitude. Formerly home to Greek Cypriots, it became a ghost town as a result of the widespread relocation of citizens after the 1974 invasion. Nowadays the village has a new lease of life as home to British and German expats – mostly British judging by the voices we hear.

Bellapais Abbey in Northern Cyprus
Bellapais Abbey
Bellapais Abbey in Northern Cyprus
Bellapais Abbey
Bellapais Abbey in Northern Cyprus
Bellapais Abbey in Northern Cyprus
Bellapais Abbey

Bellapais on the other hand is just as picturesque with its little streets and sweeping views, but is nowhere near as peaceful, due to the presence of a beautiful abbey which draws coach loads of visitors every day, even today when the high season has passed. It isn’t a surprise that Bellapais is popular though, it’s an exceedingly quaint village.

Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
St Hilarion castle
Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
St Hilarion castle

Looking down on the entire region is the precipitous castle of St Hilarion, clinging to different levels of a mountain peak more than 700 metres above sea level. Clambering around its crumbling form and scrambling up and down its uneven steps is great fun, and again, like yesterday, worth every effort for the views alone. Construction of this castle began under Byzantine rule in the 11th century, was upgraded and further fortified during the influence of the Lusignan dynasty, then largely dismantled by the Venetians some 400 years after its creation. The ruins occupy an amazing site, perched right on the edge of the soaring stone faced mountain, its vertical walls seemingly forming an integral part of the rocky mountainside.

Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
Making our way to the top

Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
St Hilarion castle
Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
Saint Hilarion Castle in Northern Cyprus
St Hilarion castle

We’re moving on from Girne/Kyrenia now to our penultimate destination of the entire trip. Last thoughts on Girne? Well, it’s unfortunate that the obviously attractive harbour and its cafes were all out of commission during our stay, and the town itself is a pleasant little place, but in the surrounding areas there are elements which are difficult to like. The mountain and coastal villages beyond its limits are beautiful, as are the splendid views from multiple vantage points, but to appreciate those it’s necessary to drive past a big helping of resort hotels, casinos, beach clubs and the like – a big dollop of a certain kind of tourism along the coastal strip. 

But then, with Girne/Kyrenia being the centre of tourism in North Cyprus, such things were, we suppose, to be expected.

View of Kyrenia in Northern Cyprus

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