Crowded Beaches And An Antipope: Heading Further South
The morning temperature as we leave Tarragona seems to have ramped up, all is still and the Med is a flat calm mirror of the sky, sunlight sequins glinting across its surface. Tranquility now reigns where yesterday the fiesta brought verve, the only ones buzzing with activity now are the army of street cleaners removing the final evidence of revelry.
It’s even hotter as we step off the train further south, and the trudge with backpacks up the steep hills and steps to our next accommodation is a bit of a tester – we are both pouring with sweat by the time we finally open the door to our new apartment. Cold beer is calling, but first there’s other business to attend to – Michaela needs a haircut. While the peluquera is doing her stuff, I wander off to take a look around our new town.
In truth, we don’t arrive with massively high hopes for Peñiscola, this is a coastal pause on our journey southwards, a couple of rest days in what will most likely be a tourist trap. And as I take a wander along the seafront, the beach is certainly rammed full, in fact it’s more than a bit comical to see just how many bodies are stretched out on the sand or wading in the shallows. It’s noticeable though that most of the chatter seems to be Spanish, maybe this is a domestic rather than international holiday destination.
It soon becomes clear though that Peñiscola (that little squiggle above the “n” is important in order to avoid an unfortunate mispronunciation!), has a bit more to offer than your typical Costa Beachtown. The main town spreads along the very long beach which curves all the way to the next town of Benicarlo a few miles to the north, golden sand and blue sea all the way. But in the centre of Peñiscola a pan-shaped promontory juts out to sea, on top of which stand the remains of a castle and, a little way below, castle walls cleverly built into the natural rock.
We have chosen to stay up here, in an apartment between the walls and the castle, rather than settling down in the main town – hence the steep climb “home”. The area just below the castle and above the walls is almost like being in an ancient citadel, a formerly fortified community where the natural enclosed position on the rock means that no buildings can be substantially altered. At night, the hilly streets of this little area come alive as alley ways fill with tables, opened shutters reveal tapas bars and modest street lighting adds a certain extra allure. Not only is it like a citadel, this little quarter reminds us strongly of a Greek island chora. A Greek island feel in an old Spanish town is pretty much a recipe for charm.
The views from the town and beach, across the blue waters to the castle on the hill are spectacular, but the view from our apartment is equally lovely, looking back from our elevated position over to the town where the evening lights reflect in the Med. The “pan handle” leading out to us has beaches on either side; Peñiscola rises inland to a point even higher than us. It’s all very picturesque despite the presence of some chunky hotels along the front.
Peñiscola castle was one of several in Southern Spain which were surrendered from Muslim rule and relinquished to the Kingdom of Aragon in the 13th century, then handed in 1294 to the Knights Templar who in turn developed the castle further whilst planning to create a kingdom based on the town. Much of what we see today is the restored design of the Knights Templar period. However a yet more intriguing history was to unfold inside the castle’s sturdy walls.
During the split in the Catholic church known as the Western Schism which led to the papacy relocating from the Vatican to Avignon (we mentioned this in our post from Avignon), Benedict XIII was elected as Pope by supporters of the Avignon faction but was never universally accepted. Despite subsequently losing most of his support and being forced to flee, Benedict remained insistent until his final breath that he was the justified leader of the faith. Effectively exiled and forced out of the papal residences, he took up home here in Peñiscola castle where he was to die several years later. To this day he is not recognised as a true Pope but is instead known rather disparagingly as “Antipope Benedict XIII”.
Back to the current day Peñiscola. Truly, the beaches are hilariously busy, so many people vying to occupy the same spaces that it sometimes feels as if half the world’s population is either under a brightly coloured parasol or wading in the warm waters. The whole spectacle is made even funnier by the fact that the waters are shallow for a considerable distance from the shore, meaning that literally hundreds of people stand chatting with only the top half of their body visible above the surface. From the clifftop they look like so many flies on a windshield.
There’s a pattern though. Peñiscola beach is seriously rammed by 10.30 each morning, after which it’s impossible to be more than a few feet from your semi-undressed neighbours if you want to be within reach of the sea. Somewhere around 1.30pm it starts to thin out as the majority begin to gather up their stuff and head first for lunch and then, presumably, for a siesta. Hordes of them then return around four hours later and stay on the beach till sundown. Consequently the best time of day for a little bit of space is the mid-afternoon hours, just when the sun is at its hottest. Mad dogs and Englishmen, huh. And it is hot, by the way.
That siesta exodus tells us that we were probably right in our first assessment that most people here are Spaniards on holiday – we haven’t heard a single English voice in three days here, and, when a waiter realises we’re non-dom, he will most likely try to converse in French next.
It’s been an interesting little stay in Peñiscola, its lovely Greek-chora style neighbourhood around the castle has been a pleasant surprise, and the castle itself a fun and interesting visit. The very crowded beach was neither a surprise nor particularly pleasant, but it’s been great to take a couple of days out and give ourselves a bit of chill time. And you can’t really dislike swimming in the Med, whatever.
After our last meal here we compliment the waiter on the excellent tuna steaks, when he realises we’re from England he says he’s been there just once, to London.
“Did you like London?” asks Michaela
“It rained”, is his only response.
From Peñiscola we make our longest single move south for several weeks as we pick up the inter city train from Benicarlo for a near 4-hour journey down the coast to Alicante. On the stretches where the track ventures inland, the terrain is rugged and arid, at times almost desert like, barren acres of dust and rock where mountains rise to misshapen, wind eroded peaks. The pine clad hills of further north are gone: these peaks are more the stuff of spaghetti Westerns.
We weren’t aiming for Alicante, but with the train due to arrive just before 6pm we opt for a one night stand here rather than a late arrival at next base – not least because we remember our fellow bloggers the Pazeras at latitude adjustment writing a veritable eulogy about the place. In our very short visit here, we see the attraction.
With just one evening and one morning in Alicante, we can’t possibly do it justice, but in our short time here we see enough to encourage us to vow to return. The old town simply oozes character, so many great looking bars and restaurants that it’s hard to choose, an attractive waterfront and, way up above us, a hilltop castle which we simply don’t have time to climb to. As a one night stand, Alicante is a city which just begs you to come back for more.
But there isn’t time. We have an appointment with Happy Town….
28 Comments
ourcrossings
Wow, just look at that gorgeous blue sky! With its sun, sea and sand in abundance, Alicante golden Mediterranean beaches sure are a summer paradise for leisure-seekers looking to relax and unwind in the sun. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Andrew Petcher
I really like the street images. I could manage without the crowded beach.
Phil & Michaela
You can probably see from the Peñiscola photos, what we mean about it being like a Greek island chora. It felt very similar.
Toonsarah
I’ve never heard of Peñiscola, I have to say! It looks lovely at night and the views are great but I couldn’t take the heat and have no interest in sunbathing nor battling crowds to reach the sea 😆 However, Alicante appeals more, although again, because of the heat, not at this time of year. A pleasant spring or autumn break perhaps? Meanwhile I’m curious to learn more about Happy Town 😀
Phil & Michaela
We don’t mind the heat, as you know. We’re don’t lay around in the sun much either but there was a need to take a couple of days’ rest after so long on the move.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Peñiscola looks enchanting despite the crowded beach. What a perfect place to chill for a couple of days. I enjoyed learning the history of the castle and the antipope Benedict XIII. Your photos are spectacular. I especially love the nighttime shots of the city from your apartment. What amazing views you had! I am also intrigued by your next destination and look forward to your post.
Phil & Michaela
It wasn’t a bad place…just a bit busy!
Helen Devries
As you say, Peniscola is a domestic rather than international resort….I found an Indian restaurant there and was engulfed by waiters and cooks happy to speak English, all having been recruited from somewhere in the Midlands.
Phil & Michaela
It was an alright kinda place despite the crowds, Helen
Phil & Michaela
I should also have said….blimey, you’ve been there! We’d never heard of it before we started researching where to make our stopping points down the coast!
Helen Devries
We had a house inland of Castellon de la Plana years ago to meet up with all the family from Belgium. The huge music festivals kept the young entry interested….everything from caribbean to electric via anything else you seem to name….while the rest of us could explore the villages, hike up in the hills and enjoy the food!
Phil & Michaela
Sounds good to me 😄
Monkey's Tale
Still, it’s certainly not a bad place to rest for a few days. The castle history is interesting, I didn’t know (or remember anyway) about the antipope! The town looks cute though.
Phil & Michaela
It was more attractive than we expected. Busy though!
WanderingCanadians
There’s something about the hot weather that always draws people to the beach. On the plus side that means you have the rest of the town to yourselves to explore. Looks like you picked a great spot to stay despite the crowds.
leightontravels
Am enjoying following your tracks along a stretch of the Spanish coast I haven’t yet made it to. Peniscola has such a dramatic look to it with its castle. I would’ve also gone for a place up in the hills, definitely worth the effort I’d say. I nearly made it to Alicante once and indeed it it still very much on the list. Not sure about Mushroom Street though.
Phil & Michaela
Yes Peñiscola was an okay place despite the crowds, particularly enjoyed the area around the castle. I have not the slightest idea what the relevance of Mushroom Street is, maybe just the whim of a local artist/designer
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
The mushroom street was created by the city of Alicante to rejuvenate the street and help the businesses in the area during a state of economic decline. It was the worst area of Alicante (hookers, drug users, gangs ) and now a big tourist draw. Commonly know as San Franciso street now known as Mushroom Street. Many great new business have opened up shop there and the city is very proud of its success.
Phil & Michaela
That’s really interesting, thank you for the info guys 😃
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Your so welcome.
Wendy
Just come back from Spain and I really loved Peniscola ,very hot therein October and the beach was reasonably quiet,the visit to the castle was amazing every where has a buzz about it ,and not many English voices ,Heaven!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you for your comment, Wendy – we loved it too!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Hi Phil and Michaela! Thanks for your comment and link to our blog! We so appreciate that. We have had Peñiscola on our list for a while. You provided great information showing that it’s very worthwhile to visit. Glad you enjoyed it.
Alicante is a gem in our minds. We will be there for two weeks in October to make a final decision on moving there. We do hope you include Cartagena when you head south. The history, location, and food are wonderful. We did a blog post about it. Cheers!
Phil & Michaela
Not sure we’ll fit it in but I’m grabbing the maps right now…
grandmisadventures
Interesting to read on the antipope- that was a piece of history that I did not know about. I really love that simple, beautiful architecture of the old town looking over the sea- seems perfectly idyllic for a resting point 🙂
Alison
It looks such a pretty town and interesting too. I was thinking it looked Greek and then you mentioned it. The views are amazing and despite the busy beaches still looks like you had a great time. Loving all the history lessons too 😉
Phil & Michaela
Yes it was actually a nicer place than we expected even when busy, the little “Greek chora” area was lovely during the evenings.
wetanddustyroads
I will not complain when our apartment is located in such a lovely place! And Peñiscola isn’t too bad either – beautiful beaches (even though it’s crowded) and a castle with an interesting story.