North America
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Valladolid: Gateway To Wonders But So Much More
We leave the lovely little beach town of Puerto Morelos with a real sense of disappointment, an unshakable feeling that we really missed out here. Not so much that the seaweed invasion spoilt both the beach and the sea – though that was disappointment enough – but more the fact that I couldn’t shake off the bout of “travel tummy” enough to enjoy the town’s splendid bars and restaurants. Being a beach town, this is probably the best collection we’ve seen in Mexico, but regrettably I just wasn’t up to making the most of it. As we walk home on our last night here – a Friday – after eating…
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Puerto Morelos & The Seaweed Attack
Puerto Morelos marks a minor milestone on our 2022 travels – it’s our 48th bed of the year, one more than our previous record which we set last year. And it’s only August. Altogether we’ve been travelling for over 180 days so far this year – we’ve only been in our own home for 49. The pristine white sand beach which is in all the on line photographs has a sargassum seaweed problem just now. Having talked to people here and then researched it ourselves, it seems the current situation is abnormal with unprecedented levels of sargassum growth this year, with a reported 24.2 million tons being pulled from Mexico’s…
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From Chiapas To The Coast With A Touch Of Tuxtla
Usually the first one we hear is just before 7am, though occasionally we hear an earlier one and sometimes a handful just after midnight. And then at regular intervals throughout the day. We didn’t know what they were at first – somebody shooting rabbits, perhaps, but then, could the louder ones be cannons? They’re sky rockets, of course they are. It turns out that in the provincial towns of Mexico (the pueblas), there is an obsession with buying or making fireworks and then lighting them outside the church. Apparently intended to “amplify” prayers and take them closer to God, these rockets don’t light up the sky or provide colourful shows,…
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Into A Spiritual World….And Out Again
Alighting from the collectivo in front of the church in the village of San Juan Chamula is to enter a different world, higher still up the mountains from San Cristobal and deeper still into the world of the indigenous tribes of Chiapas. This is the village we referred to in our previous post, the spiritual and material home of the tzotzil people and on first viewing alone is still clearly dominated by tradition; the village where ancient beliefs are still held by all, where tribal teachings merge effortlessly with modern society, and the village where Coca-Cola has infiltrated life to the point where it has religious and spiritual significance. You…
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Breakfast With Peacocks, Coca-Cola Burps & Drinking Pox: Tales From San Cristobal
Emerging somewhat bleary eyed from the overnight bus journey – although we both slept better than we thought we would – and blinking in the morning sun, the crisp freshness of the mountain air strikes us immediately. After several stays in humid locations over the last few weeks, culminating in the cloying air of Palenque, it feels like a completely different climate here. We are some 2,100 metres higher above sea level than we were in Palenque and it is instantly noticeably different. This is San Cristobal de las Casas, where evenings will be chilly and, if all goes according to plan, virtually the last point at which we feel…
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Mexico By Bus: Veracruz-Villahermosa-Palenque
Order a drink called “lechero”. Your waiter will deliver a tall glass with a generous measure of espresso coffee in the bottom. What you must do next is tap loudly on the glass with your spoon, and immediately a different, immaculately uniformed waiter will dash to your table armed with pots filled with hot milk, and flamboyantly pour it into your coffee from a great height, theatrically stopping just as your glass reaches the brim full point. Welcome to Gran Cafe de la Parroquia, Veracruz, established in 1808 and apparently serving their lechero in this extrovert style for over 200 years. We’d read about it before we arrived here and,…
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Veracruz & Boca del Rio: Baking Sun & Flash Floods
The very word Veracruz conjures up certain visions – romantic, exotic, dynamic – although maybe I’m swayed a bit by the fact that there’s a Santana song bearing the city’s name as its title which is all about falling in love whilst within the city’s conducive ocean setting. Consequently we venture there with a great sense of anticipation, eager to see it for ourselves. As it happens, we are about to be underwhelmed, and the reality is that Veracruz doesn’t quite meet those expectations. A near 6-hour bus journey from Mexico City sounds like it could be a bit of a trial but the ADO bus is extremely comfortable and…
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Mexico City: CDMX #2
Delicious smells from the city’s bakeries fill the air before we’re properly awake. Another day dawns and it’s once again time to climb on to the speeding merry-go-round which is Mexico City, there’s still so much more to see and do. Hernan Cortes and his cohorts may have taken the 16th century equivalent of a bulldozer to ancient history, but at least the period of Spanish occupation saw the construction of a majestic and beautiful city in its place; you only have to see the Palacio de Belles Artes, the Casa Ajuelos, the churches, even the Post Office, to love the grand architecture of this giant city. Yes, even the…
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Mexico City: CDMX #1
It’s fascinating how the sounds of a city can be a part of defining its character, it can be a charm or a challenge, a boon or a burden. Earlier this year we were in Cairo, where the constant ear battering of traffic noise and raised voices soon becomes tiresome. Mexico City, in contrast, though just as loud and just as constant, has a soundtrack which is for the most part one of carnival and music. Chatter and laughter fills the streets, music drifts upward from every corner. It’s the sound of fiesta rather than frustration, joy rather than jams, an immediately exciting and enticing environment where the wall of…
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Hola Guadalajara. Olé! Tequila!
Now and again something inside the grey-white cloud flickers like a fluorescent lamp behind a curtain, then a streak of lightning shoots sideways across the sky. A vertical bolt flashes directly to the ground. With eastward movement and night time approaching, there is a point where, from the aeroplane window, the orange sunset is reflected in clouds, yet the darkness of dusk is clearly visible further east beyond the colour. As we near Guadalajara, the thunder storm, at roughly the same altitude as the plane, just adds to this unusual scene. A few delays en route means a late arrival, so it’s morning before we get our first chance to…
