Baguio, City Of Pines
Slowly, slowly the bus hauls up the mountain road, climbing ever higher above the pine clad slopes and dramatic valleys, dragging round sharp hairpins until eventually we’re even above the clouds which cover the mountainsides in a giant cotton wool coat. It’s an incredible view from the bus window even before the setting sun sends unlikely shades on to the rolling clouds below, casting the pine forests into a ghostly golden twilight. This spectacular is, remarkably, to be outdone by the skies of the following evening….but of course we don’t know that yet…
We hadn’t been sure about the bus, in terms of how we would get a seat. You can’t buy tickets in advance, Vigan isn’t the start point of the journey, and we’re told that you can only pay on the bus. So how do you know you’ve secured a seat? The answer to that question is a funny one: when we arrive at the bus station and tell them we’re travelling to Baguio, we’re handed the tiniest of Post-It notes which we are to hand over on the bus as proof that we’ve secured seats, a minuscule scrap which reads “Baguio 1-2”. Funny it may be, but the system works and roughly six and a half hours later we’re off the bus and hailing a taxi in downtown Baguio.
Baguio has a number of reputations. Formerly known as the “summer capital of the Philippines” due to its cooler climate and mountain location, it is also nicknamed the “City Of Pines”, no prizes for guessing why, and is a major centre for growing strawberries (“the best in Asia”), green beans and salad vegetables.
At just under 1500 metres above sea level the air here is significantly fresher – still warm during the day but with much lower humidity and a very pleasant cooling breeze. After sundown the unmistakable chill of mountain air descends and has the citizens of Baguio reaching for their jeans and hoodies before they head downtown. The air here is clear and fresh, the clean scent of mountain freshness dashed with a hint of pine: there’s something immediately refreshing about this city. (Note: Since writing this, we’ve read that Baguio has a history of pollution and poor air quality. Either they’ve cleaned it up or we got lucky!).
Goodness knows how they judge the “1500 metres above sea level” thing, because Baguio stands at so many different levels, an endlessly undulating city where nothing seems to be on a flat level – wherever we head turns out to be a succession of climbs and descents.
As we venture out on our first morning in Baguio, our minds are cast back to childhood in the English Midlands, back in the 60s when everybody spoke to everyone. As we head out, every single person we pass greets us with a cheery “good morning” and a broad smile, some stopping to ask where we’re from, some asking if we need help finding our way around. By the time we reach the coffee bar no more than five minutes from our apartment, we have a significant feelgood factor. What a lovely, almost forgotten, feeling this is. Friendliness rules.
No matter where you walk in Baguio, it’s an up and down trail. No wonder the approach on the bus was so spectacular, no wonder the clouds wrap around the contours of the land, this whole city is improbably built on a series of dramatic hills. The main street, the intriguingly named Session Road, sits way below other parts of the city. Standout buildings top the various hills: the Cathedral Of Our Lady Of Atonement tops one, and, much more dominant yet much more mundane, a giant shopping mall tops another.
Several of the steepest hillsides have over the years become heavily populated and less privileged neighbourhoods similar to the favelas of Brazil, with terribly cramped conditions where houses appear to be stacked up above each other. One such, christened Stobosa, a combination of the three neighbourhoods of Stonehill, Botiwtiw and Sadjap, now gives Baguio another renowned feature: The Valley Of Colours.
Stobosa the Valley Of Colours is a stone’s throw outside Baguio in the adjoining town of La Trinidad. Originally conceived by the leading proponents of a local artists’ group and completed in 2016, this major project, inspired indeed by those favelas of Brazil, involved the training of over 500 residents to complete the work. The completed works certainly bring colour and interest to a deprived area. Sunflowers and strawberries, both abundant in the local area, feature prominently on the multi coloured hillside.
Inside the Valley of Colours
With such intensely hilly terrain, viewpoints and vantage points abound, though probably none better than at Mines View Park. In the valleys below, mines operated by the Benguet Corporation produced over 200 tonnes of gold until its official closure in 1990 – “official” because some illegal mining is reported to still persist. We can’t make out any evidence of mines from the viewpoint but the panoramic vistas across the pine clad mountains are absolutely magnificent. This is big country.
On the Thursday night, the Baguio sky provides an even bigger treat which outdoes even the spectacular effect seen on our arrival. Tonight, with a deliciously slow paced drama, a fabulously vivid sunset casts deep hues across the mountains and the attendant clouds. We watch in awe from our apartment balcony as the scene unfolds, it really is a stunning show, as these photographs demonstrate…
Friday dawns and we have an unexpected invite as our host Raquel and her husband Edison suggest we meet for dinner in town. It’s a really lovely evening and we spend a thoroughly enjoyable few hours in good company with good food, with the added entertainment provided by Zera, their delightful live wire 4-year old daughter.
We head now a long way from Baguio, taking on a long drive in our newly acquired rental car towards more remote parts of Luzon island. Next stop Sagada.
24 Comments
unabashedlyselflessd56f4a6e26
Baguio is one of a kind ❤
Thank you Philip and Michaela for featuring our pride City of Pines..
It is a pleasure meeting such kind people like you!
Continue sharing beautiful photos and inspiring stories!
We’ll be looking forward to your every featured destination!
PS: Zera says “hi Uncle and Auntie! Thank you for the shirts 🙂”
Phil & Michaela
Hi Raquel. Baguio was an easy city to be complimentary about, really enjoyed our stay!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Beautiful pictures, Phil. It sounds like you really enjoyed your time there and particularly the friendliness of the people. How refreshing to be spoken to and asked if you would like help or directions!
Phil & Michaela
Just one of things we really liked about Baguio. Cool place, so glad we included it on our itinerary.
Lookoom
Beautiful urban landscape, I find the desire of the inhabitants to make something beautiful very inspiring. It seems pointless, but that makes it all the more attractive.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, you’re right. No gain other than brightening the environment. Seriously changes the hillside view though!
Toonsarah
Wow, what a sunset! This isn’t on our itinerary unfortunately, as the Valley of Colours looks especially ‘my kind of thing’ 😀 It reminds me a lot of the communas in Medellin.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, you will see lots of reminders of Latin America here, Sarah. Sometimes we have to remind ourselves we’re in Asia. Really enjoyed Baguio for lots of reasons.
Monkey's Tale
The friendliness of the people makes this mountain town even more desirable. The colourful favela like homes in Stobosa are so fun. Don’t let word get out, or all of the ‘influencers’ will be there. 😊 Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Ha, yes, at the minute it seems to be popular with visitors from around Asia but not from further afield. And the people were very honest as well as friendly – even the taxi drivers don’t try it on!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
The bus ticket cracks me up.
Phil & Michaela
Me too! Little moments of travel which make us smile….
ehacarr
What an interesting journey you are having! And what a great collection of photos for later memories! Beautiful landscapes . . . and such interesting and very different areas as the Valley of Colours . . . enjoy!
Phil & Michaela
This is definitely proving to be a very varied journey. Which is, of course, great!
Heyjude
A magnificent sunset, and great views. Valley of Colours is interesting, but I wouldn’t cope with all those steps
Phil & Michaela
So says the lady who lives near St Ives 😂😂. Baguio is incredibly hilly… makes walking it tiring but boy are the unusual views a decent compensation.
Helen Devries
You’re good for my geography…I have the maps out!
Cooler climate, friendly and honest people…and those bus tickets!
Phil & Michaela
Two good places, Vigan and Baguio. We’d never heard of them before we started planning this trip, either… A less travelled path I guess, for Europeans anyway…
grandmisadventures
It seems like such a lovely area- made all the more so by that open friendliness where everyone talks to each other. The Valley of Colors is interesting because even being a poorer area, I love that they added the bright colors on the buildings which feel like a visual lift. And your sunset pictures are stunning!
Phil & Michaela
We liked Baguio, Meg, was quite a refreshing city in several ways.
WanderingCanadians
Such beautiful sunsets. Sounds like you got quite a workout from walking around the hilly terrain. The Valley of Colours seems aptly named. Good thing the people are so friendly. I guess that helps when you’re living so close to your neighbours!
Phil & Michaela
Baguio is a good city to spend a few days in, we enjoyed our time there.
Annie Berger
The sunsets in Baguio are so incredibly vibrant they lookas if they were painted with an artist’s brush. Michaela must have loved shooting pictures of the Valley of Colors! I’d have loved Baguio’s friendly people but not the hills and descents!
Phil & Michaela
It’s an interesting place in spite of the constant uphill/downhill, Annie. In places it’s so steep that the sidewalks go uphill AND have a sideways camber. Enjoyed our time there nonetheless.