Atlantic Views
Sunday morning brings gloomy light, dark clouds and the threat of rain, the forecast is less than encouraging. By the time we’ve had coffee and breakfast the rain is pounding the windows and gathering in puddles on the decking outside the cottage, and we start to weigh up braving the elements versus staying indoors. The spirit of adventure wins, and we get rewarded on our trip down the coast, starting at Porthcothan.
Remarkably we dodge the showers all day, with a cliff walk above the beach at Porthcothan, followed by a visit to Carnewas, more familiarly known as Bedruthan Steps. The “steps” are a sequence of rock pillars isolated from the mainland by centuries of erosion, a famous and iconic photographic section of this amazing coastline. Today’s inclement weather brings heaving seas and surging surf even at this point of low tide and enhances the awesome scene of this wonderful place. Just standing here, looking out across the sea, feeling the pounding wind in your face, the sheer drop to the unforgiving Atlantic just inches from our feet, the heaving seas buffeting the yielding rocks…. is invigorating and yet humbling. Watch this for a few minutes and put your own importance back into perspective.
From Bedruthan we move on to Mawgan Porth, one of those coves which has an immense change of character between tides; we’re here at low tide looking at a huge expanse of wet tidal sand, yet in a few hours this beach will be minuscule and the Atlantic will have held sway once more.
Mawgan Porth 
Mawgan Porth
Our last call today is inland at the small town of St Columb Major. It’s incredible how different this is from its coastal partners just a few short miles away: this gorgeous little town seems completely oblivious to tourism and carries on as it always did. It is home to a beautiful church, designed by an architect mistakenly believing that his creation would become Cornwall’s cathedral, a rather grand building named “Bank House” on which we can find no history, and innumerable other fabulous ancient buildings. It’s as if we’ve found a corner of Cornwall where the locals hide, away from us tourists.
Monday May 17th sees us return to Port Isaac which we visited and posted about on our previous trip which you can read HERE. We hike today from the town to Port Quin on the inland route across farmland, returning from there to Port Isaac along the coast path. This 3-mile section of coast path is one of the more challenging parts of the entire coastal route with its regular steep climbs and descents; it’s therefore no coincidence that it also affords some of the most dramatic views. And for this coastline, that’s really saying something.
View of Port Isaac
Today is the next stage of the loosening of COVID restrictions and, joy of all joys, indoor catering reopens and socialising is easier. We make the most of it, partly by happy coincidence.
Firstly we meet some friends we haven’t seen in nearly 18 months who happen to be in Cornwall for a week. Whilst enjoying a beer with them, in walk our on line friends and fellow travel bloggers Gilda and Brian from https://travellerinterrupted.org/about/ the first time we have ever met any of our blogging friends in person! We exchange a few stories and arrange to meet again before we all move on.
Our day ends with a meal at Pucelli’s in Padstow harbour – our first meal inside a restaurant since we were in Turkey last November.
20 Comments
normareadtalktalknet
Just stunning again ..😍
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, there are so many stunning places here 😄
grandmisadventures
Love the pretty color of the flowers set against the backdrop of the sea! Thank you for another beautiful walk that you’ve taken us on 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Cornwall is just full of wonderful colours
Gilda Baxter
Phil and Michaela, amazing coincidence to meet you on Tuesday night!! Although somehow I had a hunch that you guys might be there, a place you had talked about on your blog. I recognised you both immediately and it was great to finally meet up in person. We are looking forward to dinner together on Thursday 😀
Phil & Michaela
Hi Gilda, was so lovely to meet up with you all. We had kind of been looking out for you as we knew you were in the area so it was great we meet up like that. Looking forward to Thursday too so we can have a real catch up, will whatsapp you later. 😊
Heyjude
Lovely photos. The colour of the water is stunning and how lucky are you to avoid the showers! Are the Bedruthan stairs still closed?
Phil & Michaela
Yes, I think perhaps permanently as there’s been quite a significant rockfall
Heyjude
That’s a shame, it’s a lovely beach.
wetanddustyroads
I like the look of Mawgan Porth and those buildings in St Columb Major is just beautiful! Hooray for indoor dining 🎉 – I’m sure you’ve enjoyed that!
Lovely photo’s once again.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!
Toonsarah
Stunning coastal views again, and evocative descriptions of the power of the Atlantic waves! And given this disappointing May weather, isn’t it wonderful to be able to eat inside again? Wonderful too to have an unexpected encounter with blogging friends 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Just being in a restaurant feels like a treat just now – or at the very least a taste of normality
Jyothi
Wow.. Views are just stunning, superb captures, Michaela! Loved it!!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you!
Andrew Petcher
Great pictures. Glad that your meeting went well.
leightontravels
Such dramatic cliff photos complemented by your intense description! Incredible that you simply bumped into one of your fellow travel bloggers. St Columb Major looks like a great find.
WanderingCanadians
The ocean (and rain) can be unforgiving. Glad you managed to get outside despite the weather. The walk along the cliffs looks beautiful with all the wildflowers and rugged views of the coastline. What a great way to end your day than by meeting up with some friends that you haven’t seen since the start of the pandemic.
Phil & Michaela
It’s been a terrific break in so many ways – despite this strangely cold year we’re having here
Annie E Berger
What another lovely description of your exploration of this part of Cornwall and topped off by superb photos. Seeing the views of the idyllic town of Port Isaac made me want to hop over the pond right away. Thank you for the travel escape through your eyes AND feet!