Athens & The Cyclades 2019 – Tinos, Syros, Andros

Welcome to Tinos

Our arrival on Mykonos runs like clockwork, waved through security without even a glance at our passports, our backpacks already waiting for us, the bus to the ferry port already waiting outside the terminal leaves 5 minutes after we board. There is a fast ferry ready and waiting but we opt for the slow ferry an hour later, partly because it is a fraction of the price at just €8 each instead of €21 but also for the joy of sitting on deck in the sun rather than a sanitised seat and super freezer air conditioning. We join the masses, the port manager blows his whistle, all  aboard, we are swept up the gang plank amidst the excited chatter of Greeks and the clatter of wheelie cases and deposit our backpacks on the car deck in the bay marked Tinos.  There is something auspicious and magical about boarding a ferry with your backpack on.

The sea is rough, the Meltemi wind is exhilarating but the gentle roll of the ferry is relaxing. The taste of the salt lands on our lips from the fine spray of the Aegean. Once again we are in the Greek islands, wonderful start to this trip. 

As the ferry docks at Tinos the gangplank is lowered and as we join the stampede to disembark we scan the harbour for the room sellers, disturbingly there are only two! We are quickly told that the island is full, it seems the Greeks are here for a festival, but we are taken to a small room with a private garden, this will do for two nights, we are assured that Sunday night we will be able to find a room with a sea view, we will see!

The Meltemi wind is an intrinsic part of the Cyclades character, and tonight he is moody; the hot air powers through the town and white horses decorate the sea. Everything from A-boards to table cloths is anchored down. Tamarisk trees bend; doors slam. 

The town is rammed with Athenians here for the festival, the menu looks great. A litre of wine is 8 euros. The hot wind blasts through the square. We are back.

This Sacred Island

Being towards the northern end of the Cyclades, Tinos is within relatively easy reach of Athens and so weekend homes for Athenians are commonplace here, particularly in Tinos Town itself. But the steady stream of visitors heading here from the mainland arrive for something far more spiritual, with several sites on the island holding special significance in the Greek Orthodox Church. Amongst these, the Panagia Megolacharia church in Tinos Town itself is possibly Greece’s main pilgrimage destination, a pilgrimage which includes a remarkable personal endurance commitment. More of that later.

The church, actually a monastery originally, is built, according to legend, on the site of the discovery of a buried icon featuring the Virgin Mary praying, unearthed after a Nun was compelled to the site by a vision of Our Lady, telling her that this is the site of where her church should stand. She located the spot, and villagers dug, eventually unearthing the icon which is housed in the church to this day. Pilgrims flock here year round but especially, it turns out, in August.

And so our difficulty in finding a room is explained. We have arrived on Tinos on the second most important date of pilgrimage, and consequently the town is thronged with Greek visitors, filling virtually every hotel and apartment in town. Our tiny room must have been one of the last available, as our reconnaissance around town today reveals a lack of places even after the weekend, despite what we were told yesterday. We may struggle to find another bed after our two nights in this room, but those driven here by a higher belief should certainly take priority over tourists like us. We will do what we can.

The bustling town hugs the hills above the harbour and adjoining bays, and is home to a whole host of restaurants catering for the visitors from mainland Greece. Consequently the town buzzes with chatter, large groups sit over long leisurely meals late into the evening, Greek music drifts through the air. 

We spend the day exploring the town, half seeking a place to stay, half taking in the sights, as the bulky island ferries come and go, each one disgorging yet more hordes of visitors, until we succumb to a light fish and salad lunch and spend some time on a beach just out of town. The Aegean is warm, and crystal clear. 

Returning to our room, we witness the incredible pilgrimage in its stark reality for the first time. The entire route up the steep hill from the port to the church is carpeted with a rough textile, over stone, tarmac, cobbles and, eventually, steps. The more devout pilgrims make the entire climb on hands and knees, in reverence to Our Lady Of Tinos, dragging themselves inch by inch until they reach the church interior. As they near the final steps, many are sobbing openly, no doubt partly through exertion and pain, but mostly through the amazing spiritual experience the pilgrimage constitutes. They find the strength to undertake this task from within their faith. It is more than a little moving to witness their open emotion, and humbling to witness.

Tinos, Land Of Chapels, Windmills and Dovecotes

So the situation with our search for a room takes a turn to the sublime. Our current abode is clean enough, and our host is friendly enough, but it’s tiny and we’ve already had enough of shuffling sideways around the beds and living out of unpacked backpacks. Plus, it’s let from Monday so in any event we can’t stay more than one more night.

Our search draws a blank, the town is still full of pilgrims and Athenians and it seems every bed is taken. And then, like the proverbial London buses, two come along at once. Yesterday, a guy named Georgos said he’d call by 2pm if he had anything, but there’s no such call. We know his rooms are right on the beach, and they look great. Then our current landlord Michaelades says his mate Carlos has found us a room but without a sea view. At 9pm (7 hours late, not bad for Greek!), Georgos calls, and we’re in,one of the rooms right on the beach is now available. We take it. So now, after all Michaelades’ effort, we have to say thanks but no thanks!

Last night after a great meal in a family taverna in a back alley, we sat a while by a statue, listening to street musicians playing traditional Greek music, so cool. The charm of Tinos town for us is the restaurants around the harbour and in the old streets and back alleys; there are literally dozens, every one of them rammed full and with the incessant deafening chatter of the gregarious Greeks. It’s a lovely atmosphere and we want more of it.

And our new home is fabulous, a smart and comfy apartment right above the crashing waves, just 20 minutes walk out of town, wonderful views across the sea, the beach just across the road. Our balcony faces due South. We’ve fallen on our feet again. Again.

So today is our first road trip in our newly acquired hire car, to the beautiful fishing village of Panormos on the north coast of the island. On the way there we call in at Pyrgos, famous for its marble production, its narrow streets and charming miniature square almost Capri like. It’s a beautiful little place. On to Panormos itself, which delivers just what a fishing village should: an utterly delicious fresh fish lunch, seriously up there with the best, right at the waterfront.

This is one mountainous island, the drive to Panormos is all steep climbs, steep drops and hairpin bends, the views breathtaking, on one side the deep blue Aegean and the neighbouring islands, on the other the rugged hills forming the Tinos backbone. It’s a spectacular drive, the countryside dotted with sights typical of the region; sugar cube houses, whitewashed chapels with bright blue domes, windmills built long ago, some still harnessing the power of Meltemi.

But the oddest sight is the dovecotes which are more or less unique to Tinos, strange two storey structures, almost like mini castles, with intricate designs and standing proud and tall across the valleys. These are not dovecotes as we know them, not a wooden bird house on a post, but instead each one of them as big as a house. Why so much detail in a house for pigeons? 

The island of Tinos houses more than 600 of these odd structures, dating back apparently to the Venetian occupation long ago, when the canny Venetians seized on the opportunity to breed doves and pigeons both for food and to fertilise the land with their droppings. It has worked like a charm, the green valleys here are among the most fertile in all the Greek islands, generations of natural fertiliser enhancing the presence of spring water to create intensely fertile land.

Animist cultures and religions hold the belief that all objects, places and creatures possess a spirit, and their moods are definable. If that’s the case, then someone has seriously upset Meltemi. Meltemi is not a gusty wind, she blasts incessantly across the islands with immense power, and on days like today, you don’t argue with her. She howls across lowland and highland alike, trees bend, dust flies, twigs become weapons. You have to shout to be heard. She dominates the soundtrack. The locals carry on, unperturbed. Meltemi clearly rules here. 

Over The Top Of Tinos

Tinos isn’t a cheap island. It’s not painfully expensive or anything, but for food, beer and accommodation we are paying prices pretty similar to back home in the UK, which for Greek islands is expensive. Probably the result of the stream of Athenians, we guess. Only the local “village” wine is cheap.

It’s also relatively large for a Greek island, 26 kilometres end to end, which is why we’ve hired a car to explore as much as we can before we move on. So today is another road trip day, driving up over the mountains then down to the coast on the North East side of the island. 

Every single one of the mountain villages is so picturesque and so beautifully peaceful.  Well, peaceful apart from the Meltemi wind roaring through its alleys! Typically, you park on the narrow roadway which usually passes beneath the village on the mountainside, then climb steep whitewashed steps up into labyrinthine alley ways. Sometimes the village is so steep that you pass through tight tunnels beneath and between houses, bougainvillea and vines cascade down the white walls, jasmine scent fills the air.

One twist in an alley will then bring you to a miniature piazza, with maybe two or three cafes and an inviting tavern, mountain trails invitingly lead the way out of each village to the rocky terrain beyond. Many of the villages have a speciality trade; here is the village of marble sculptures, there the village of basket weaving. One of them – Dyo Choria, possibly the prettiest – is home to a natural spring where stone laundries from a bygone era are still in evidence.

Among these we visit the monastery of Virgin Mary Evangelistria. The monastery is beautiful, this blindingly white mass of buildings is like a miniature village,  a maze of tiny streets, tiny squares and pretty gardens, hidden chapels easily missed, some sparsely decorated, others impossibly ornate, the scent of candles and incense fills the air, nuns silently go about their daily jobs. This tranquil haven in the mountains even appears to have calmed the ferocity of the meltimi.

We land eventually at Kolymbithra, and take lunch at one of the two tavernas, including beef in a honey and thyme sauce, fabulous. Kolymbithra has two beaches which effectively form three distinct sections; a family beach with a gentle sea and amenities including the tavernas, then a second beach of two halves. The horseshoe bay leaves one half exposed to crashing waves (there are even surfboards for hire), the other calm clear sea with much finer sand, so tranquil compared to its neighbours.

Our last call is at Volax, a quaint village bizarrely surrounded by strange boulders of all sizes, worn almost spherical by the pounding of Meltemi.

Driving Tinos is an absolute pleasure. The mountain roads with their steep inclines and tight hairpins are enormous fun, but the views and the changing terrain as you climb, clear the top, and drop back down, are truly spectacular. You just have to keep stopping.

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Tinos Blows Us Away, So Does Meltemi

The Meltemi wind blows through the Cyclades for many months of each year – we’ve experienced it before but nothing like these last few days here on Tinos. It was windy on Sikinos a couple of years ago, but wow this has been different. For instance…

• When we collected our hire car, they warned us about opening the doors because they get more damage from doors blowing open on to other cars, or walls, than anything else.
• You don’t sleep through the night because the wind is too loud.
• It’s difficult to walk in a straight line.
• It’s difficult to hold a conversation.
• You can’t wear a hat. Wearing a dress is a danger zone.
• When on the beach, you are peppered with sandstorms which feel like a million needles piercing your skin.
• Restaurants struggle as table cloths lift up and catapult glasses and crockery on to the ground. Chairs move on their own.
• At one place, our bread rolls blew out of the basket.

The saving grace is that Meltemi is warm even in the evenings so it’s a bit like living next to a giant hairdryer, therefore it spoils nothing completely, and of course we have still loved both the island and the sunshine, but this incessant howling wind has been a challenge. 

After breakfast today we visit the pilgrimage cathedral in Tinos town. It is a spectacular building, the carpet laid down on the road for pilgrims to crawl to this place continues through the archway and up the marble stairway. As we saw earlier in the week this is an emotional pilgrimage in itself, slowly crawling on hands and knees from the harbour up this steep hill, we can only imagine what emotions they feel as they enter through the archway, this magnificent building towering above them, exhausted, just this steep staircase to climb before they finally reach their destination and stand to kiss the sacred icon, such devoted people.

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So our last full day on Tinos is another road trip to take in most of the rest; the highest point of the island at Xombourgo, a longer visit to the beautiful village Pyrgos, and a couple of hours on the beach at Ormos Isterrion. At Pyrgos we take a delicious lunch (fennel sausages – what’s not to like?) in the tiny square which still puts us in mind of Capri, and the incredibly steep road down to the beach is as exciting as it gets. The cove itself is a lovely peaceful beach with tamarisk trees and beautifully clean, clear water.

And so return our hire car, pay our host  Georgos, and start to wonder whether Meltemi might be a little more gentle on our next island.

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From Tinos to Syros: Island #2

According to the saying, you can get used to anything. So we reckon it works like this. You arrive on Tinos and the unbelievable wind is an amusing novelty for a day, maybe even two. If you’re here for ages, then you learn to live with it and it’s not important, you might even stop noticing it. Somewhere in between, probably at around the 5-day point, you’re at the point where you’re simply thinking please, just for one hour, stop. Stop this ridiculous wind, just for a short time. Please. We’ve been here five days and it’s how we feel!

So it’s kind of fitting that, after a fresh sardine and salad lunch in a windswept taverna, we board the ferry with the seas choppy and lively even inside the harbour walls. 

Tinos though has been lovely. The mostly rocky terrain is consistently spectacular, the mountain villages quaint and peaceful; its beaches few but welcoming. The sunshine soldiers on despite the wind, and such gems as green valleys and oversize dovecotes take you by surprise. The generous use of herbs considerably enhances the flavours of traditional Greek cuisine, and the fish at Panormos was to die for.

The Blue Star ferry to Syros docks at the island’s capital, Ermoupoli, a beautiful seafront town swept around a sumptuous bay. But this time we are heading away from the main town and across the island to the west coast village of Kini, nestled in a cove facing the sunsets. Our new host Yiannis proudly tells us about his island, then drops into our next home just a stone’s throw from the beach and its tavernas.

The first thing that hits us is….nothing. No wind, no Meltemi, no deafening roar. Just hot, still air, and the sound of the sea. Oh yes, bring it on. 

We take a first exploratory hike around the headland to the next cove, Delfini, a walk which includes a hazardous section negotiating a crossing of the nudist beach. There are some very brown bodies here, most with no white bits! 

And so we take fresh fish at one of Kini’s renowned fish tavernas and settle in for a few days in our next temporary home.

Kini: Time To Unwind

The village of Kini, on Syros, is indisputably holiday atmosphere, with three beaches and a cool vibe; beach bars, sunshine and clear sea. And so our first day here is a chill day, the only interruption to beach time being our favourite Greek lunch, small fish and retsina. 

It’s time for a break. For those of you obsessed with Fitbit stats, Michaela’s Fitbit tells us…

Saturday 30,338 steps, 11.83 miles

Sunday 18,631 steps, 7.25 miles

Monday 18,579 steps, 7.25 miles

Tuesday 17,877 steps, 6.99 miles

Wednesday 26,049 steps, 10.16 miles.

Alternatively, Phil’s Fatbit tells us of beer every day, a litre of wine between us each night, more bread each day than we normally eat in a month.

So we’ll shut up now and let the pictures do the talking:-

Syros: From West Coast To East

Unlike Tinos, Meltemi here on Syros behaves in a more typical way; nothing in the morning, a gentle breeze rising through the afternoon, then tailing off for the evening. That’s more like the Meltemi we know of old.

So after yesterday’s chill time followed by beer and cocktails in a very cool bar (Cougars) and a seafront evening meal, we are recharged today and take on an exploration suggested by our host Yiannis. We take the bus to Alithini on the mountain top and begin our trek to Ano Syros. The view  is fantastic, the ancient village of Ano Syros is across the valley and topped by a grand church looking down over the bay, the white washed houses tumble down the mountainside spilling out into the sprawling port town of Ermoupoli.

The uneven stone path leads us through the countryside, parched ground and the remnants of terraced farming. Dry stone walls keep goats and ponies at bay, cockerels crow.  Olive trees ladened with olives not yet ready for harvest, fig trees with juicy fruit ripe for  picking, the scent of mountain herbs drifting on the breeze, swallowtail butterflies dancing through the air, cats sprawl out enjoying the morning sun. It’s very peaceful here.

Ano Syros is the island’s oldest settlement, once a fortified town huddled behind protective walls high above the sea, its church and monastery standing proud above the clustered houses. The centre is extremely well preserved and again so peaceful. So peaceful in fact that the cafe owners are still asleep and we can’t even get a frappe.

From there we drop down to Ermoupoli, where we confirm our first impressions on arrival the other day: this is a very attractive town. The bay sweeps, riviera style, restaurants lining the curve, deep blue sea lapping the shore. Neo classical buildings look proudly out to the ocean; venture a few yards inland to discover leafy squares, tight streets and vibrant shops and stalls.

Syros residents are rightly proud of Ermoupoli, in fact they claim it to be the most beautiful “city” in all of Greece. We can’t make a comment on that, but it is certainly hugely attractive. 

So it’s a fish lunch again- how good is retsina as a fish accompaniment- and the bus back to Kini in time for another swim. 

Kini is a fabulous location for sunsets, and we end our day again sipping beer and cocktail, marvelling at the changing orange shades of the sunset. 

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Last Day on Syros

We nearly changed our minds. Our outline plan was always to make this our last day here before we move on to the next island, but we nearly scrapped that and stayed a bit longer, such is the charm of Kini, on Syros. Walks into the mountains, a backdrop of rolling countryside, the sound of the Aegean rolling in, the soft sand, the oh so chilled beachfront bars, the peace and relaxation. The beach itself. We liked it here.

But one of our travel maxims is: move on while you still love a place, and don’t stay too long. So we’ve stuck with the plan, despite Kini calling us to linger, and our ferry tickets are booked for tomorrow.

It seems that somehow Syros is halved, in terms of religion, with this side predominantly Catholic, and Ermoupolis and the Eastern half Greek Orthodox. So today we climb the hills behind the village to first visit the church, and then, higher up the island, the monastery dedicated to Agia Varvara (St Barbara). The monastery itself is both beautiful and peaceful, but the real joys of our hike are the views back down to Kini from the top of the island. It really is a perfect cove, and so classically Cycladic. 

It’s been a lovely few days here, we’ve loved it. But tomorrow is time to move on. 

Moving On: From Syros to Andros

As we enjoy the early morning sun on our terrace one last time, Kini village is so peaceful. The bamboo fields sway in the gentle breeze, nearby cockerels crow and the bells ring out across the valley from Agia Varvara, the village awakens and we will be a little sad to move on.

We bid our farewell to Yiannis and head for the bus; rather than give ourselves a race against time we’ve paced the day comfortably, which first affords time for a breakfast omelette at Ermoupoli before boarding the first of two ferries. The port skyline at Ermoupoli is dominated by what is an unusual sight in these parts, a busy shipyard which employs no less than 800 of the island’s residents. 

To get from Syros to Andros, it’s necessary to return to Tinos and then take a second boat, so we also allow ourselves time for a lunch snack back in Tinos, where inevitably the crazy Meltemi wind is still hammering through the port and taking just about everything with her. 

So it’s around 4.15pm by the time the ferry hauls into Andros, and we are seriously surprised to find not a single room seller waiting to greet us, this is just not what happens on the Greek islands! But we are soon billeted in a room right in the mix, next to the ferry port and in the heart of the waterfront restaurant area. 

On Tinos, we stayed in the main town, which is the port town; on Syros, we left the main town and lived on the opposite side of the island. Here, a third alternative, as the ferry port is, unusually, on the opposite side of the island to the main town, and so we opt to stay in Gavrio, the port town.

This could be an interesting place: a run of Greek restaurants along the waterfront, the regular coming and going of ferries and the momentarily manic activity that comes with each arrival, and an evening buzz of chatter around the bay. September has arrived today, so high season becomes shoulder, and many Greeks are heading back home. The evening air is a couple of notches cooler, too. 

Andros is a larger island, one we are looking forward to exploring. 

Uncovering Andros

Andros is an island renowned for trekking and hiking, so we have allocated this part of the trip for a bit of walking activity mixed in with exploring the island, which is known as both the “island of water and dreams” and the “princess of the Cyclades”. The former name comes, unsurprisingly, from the island’s plentiful supply of fresh water from numerous natural springs.

So it is then that armed with a trail map and water supply, we head off inland from Gavrio, more intending to get a feel for the quality of the trails rather than take on a major hike on day one. Well, if this is the quality we can expect, then we are in for a proper treat.

On the evidence of today, the trails are not only carefully waymarked, but also numbered, making navigation extremely easy, plus of course taking you to the best viewpoints and most important landmarks. Underfoot, the terrain is constantly changing, a combination of ancient donkey trails used by farmers of old, dry stream beds, and shale tracks.

The climb out of Gavrio is steep and tiring, but affords fabulous views back down to the bay. From up here you can still see that the ferry is docking, but the pageant and chaos of the ferry disgorging and reloading is taking place in distant silence. Only down by the port can you really appreciate the mad 20 minutes with each ferry call.

Our hike takes us along and around Trail 15, up to the ancient settlement of Ano Agios Petros, with its mysterious Hellenestic era tower, probably a lookout but its true history unclear. The freshwater spring below the quaint church gushes crystal clear water into the small reservoir tanks below. 

Between the village and the tower we pass fig trees with ripe fruit; the ones we pick are so juicy and sweet they are delicious. Why Adam & Eve listened to that damned serpent and ate apples when there was an abundance of figs in the garden is a complete mystery.

The ancient village turns out to be the zenith of the walk, from here we descend towards the coast, ending up at Agios Pedros beach, a beautifully quiet sandy stretch with calm waters and rocky islets offshore. Quite possibly the nicest beach of the trip so far.

It’s only a 25 minute stroll back into Gavrio, the sun still warm and Meltemi just gently cooling. Once again we sit on our balcony watching the ferries come and go and the lights of the tavernas come on as the sun drops behind the headland. We don’t think we would ever tire of this: the ferry’s arrival signals 20 minutes of chaotic activity; noise, shouting, the whistles of the officials, the blasts on the ship’s horn, the booming public announcements on board ship; cars, lorries and people everywhere. Then within seconds of its departure, silence falls. The pageant is over, the little terminal deserted and silent, not a soul to be seen. Until the next one.

Lights in tavernas reflecting in the water; the surrounding hills now silhouettes against the darkening sky; the chatter of Greeks drifting up from the street below; Aegean blue turning silver. Ahead of us, three full days exploring the princess of the Cyclades before we move on once more. This feels good.

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Andros: Our Quick Guide

After three full days on Andros, the third Cycladic island of this trip, this is our brief summary guide. 

General. Visually stunning, this is an island of huge green rolling hills (not quite mountains), streams and waterfalls, dramatic coastlines and long sandy beaches. Some of the gigantic sweeping valleys stretched between the lofty ridges are truly breathtaking. Every drive is stunning; every hike stimulating. It’s a beautiful island. 

Villages. The mountain villages, whilst hugely picturesque, lack the quaint squares of the villages on Tinos, and commonly have not even a cafe as you pass through on a hike, whereas Tinos invited you in to its homely tavernas.

Hiking. As we said earlier, the trails are second to none in terms of organisation, well signposted and identified with trail numbers, making navigation simple. Trail maps are readily available in each of the bigger locations. The walks themselves are incredibly rewarding and satisfying, not to mention strenuous at times!

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Places. 

Gavrio. The port town is at first appearance a little nondescript, but the row of tavernas stretching around the harbour are full of character, and the atmosphere created by the regular ferry arrivals is a real buzz. Don’t ignore Gavrio if you come to Andros: it remains quintessentially Greek and the best base from which to explore the island. 

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Andros Town (Chora). Two names because the main town on every Greek island is known as the “Chora” as well as by its “real” name. Set on a ridge sloping down to the sea, then spreading out into the two bays either side, Andros is in a spectacular location. It’s also a charming and well heeled town with a delightful central square and characterful narrow streets. Not expensive despite being second home territory for some very wealthy Greeks.

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Batsi. The island’s main resort. We found the harbour area very attractive with a nice looking selection of restaurants; the beach side though not quite so appealing. All in all a bit too touristy for us and less authentically Greek than Gavrio. 

Food. Like both Tinos and Syros, the food is classically Greek with a good dash of quality seafood, as you would expect. However all three islands have a liberal usage of capers: pretty much everything has a generous addition of them, even the traditional Greek salad. They are, by the way, succulent and tasty.

Well, that’s our brief summary, though we still have another full day on the island before we move on to the mainland for a weekend in Athens. 

From The Islands To Athens

It’s 4.40am and the party goes on as the all night bars of a vibrant and lively Athens buzz with music and laughter as Friday becomes Saturday morning. We’ve both been to Athens before in previous lives, but something has changed: a thoroughly modern, vivacious city culture has grown around the ancient ruins, turning Athens into, at first sight, a city with absolutely everything. It feels utterly alive. 

Prior to this we’d spent our last day on Andros on and around Fellos beach and its renowned family run taverna before returning the hire car and enjoying one last evening in Gavrio. 

The ferry journey from Andros to Rafina takes a little over two hours: for us, two hours in the sunshine on deck, after which there’s a bit of a scramble to grab two seats and luggage space on the bus to Athens centre. This is the only part of this trip where we’ve pre-booked accommodation, a room at the Hotel Astor from which we have a terrific view of the Parthenon. 

For our first sortie around the city we don’t yet enter any of the major sites but instead soak up the atmosphere in the Syntagma, Plaka and Monastiraki districts. It’s incredible and fascinating how this modern, busy city goes about its business around some of the most wonderful ancient sites on Earth, almost as if it’s nothing special. 

As we head back to our hotel shortly before midnight, we get the distinct feeling we are doing something wrong: restaurants are still filling up; people are ordering dinner; crowds are heading out for the night.

Maybe tomorrow we’ll find out if we can roll back the years and engage in a bit of hedonism of our own!

Ending This Journey: A Weekend In Athens

At first glance, you might think the so-called “Athens Ticket” is a tad expensive at 30 euros each, but actually it’s easy to turn it into a good deal. The ticket gives you access to 7 of the city’s ancient and most impressive sights, which by our reckoning cost considerably more if you  paid to do each individually: in fact we calculate that you only have to do any 4 of the 7 to make it economical. You will jump some queues too.

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Over our weekend here, ending our Cyclades journey, we have packed an awful lot in to a short time. We arrived from Rafina port on Friday afternoon, we leave Monday morning, and have done and seen an awful lot in between. Athens has a metro, trams, trolley buses and buses, but frankly you are far better tackling most of it on foot: the major sights are for the most part in a compact area, and the walks will continually surprise and delight you.

The Acropolis needs no explanation from us, except to say that wow has it grown as an attraction, in terms of numbers of visitors. In spite of making it first call after breakfast and hopefully getting there early, the crowds were enormous and you basically shuffle round the amazing monument shoulder to shoulder with roughly two thirds of the population of the entire world. Is what it feels like!

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None of the other major sights are anywhere near as crammed though, and we were able to take a far more leisurely tour of them all. It is particularly entrancing to simply be present at the Ancient Agora, just to stand there and absorb just where you’re standing: at the very place where democracy was born and, in a way, where society as we know it, first began.

All of the ancient sites are remarkable and are each well worthy of a visit, somehow enhanced by the fact that this lively vibrant city goes about its business all around these amazing monuments. 

Lykavittos Hill is worth the climb, and the funicular for the last bit, for the wonderful views across the entire Athens sprawl and out to sea. The Kallimarmaro stadium and the Kerameikas cemetery are other terrific destinations away from the main sights, with some great suburban tavernas close to the latter.

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The city is alive at night. Whether you choose downtown Plaka, or the adjoining Monastiraki or one of the many leafy squares or streets lined with cafes and restaurants, you are never far from the action. Of course those main restaurant areas are touristy, but that in no way detracts from the fun of being amongst it. You can’t help but notice how many of the clientele in the bars and restaurants down Adrianou Street are Greek, particularly if there’s live music and dancing. 

Athens has been a great way to end our third Greek island hopping trip together. And a great way to end our last ever trip before we retire and go off to see the rest of this world. 

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