Argentina 2024

Across The Border: A Glimpse Of Argentina

I have always been fond of making the point that flora and fauna, and therefore consequently the cuisine which is invariably traditionally based on what is available locally, don’t know where international borders lie. In other words, just because mankind placed a dividing line in a certain place doesn’t mean that one cuisine stops and a different one begins the moment you cross the line. Or that because you’ve travelled five miles everything on your plate, and in the countryside, will have changed, just because some bloke some time decided that’s where the line is.

I may however have to shift that opinion slightly having made the short, hassle free border crossing over the Iguazu River from Brazil to Argentina, for one reason only. Wine. For the last couple of weeks it’s been all Brahma and caipirinha; now, a short hop through the tropical greenery and orange-red earth and it’s vino vino vino. If it’s not a wine bar, it’s a vinoteca; if it’s not a vinoteca, it’s a steak house with a rampant wine list. This place is a veritable wine fest. Literally, in just a few miles we’ve stepped straight into the Argentine world of steaks, red wine, charcuterie and olives, and there’s not a moqueca in sight.

What’s more, if our first impressions of the little border town of Puerto Iguazu are anything to go by, then touring Argentina would be a fantastic experience and we are already vowing to do just that. We suspected that this little taster might kindle such thoughts.

Puerto Iguazu sits above the powerful river, its pretty streets forming a tree-lined grid radiating around Avenida Brasil, the main street where those wine bars and steak houses compete for business. Evenings in the town centre are full of convivial chatter, couples and families gathering for drinks and meals, in bars where UK and US rock playlists have replaced the samba rhythms of Brazil. There is such a welcoming atmosphere in this street that we feel instantly at home, especially after several nights eating at our digs, and we feel excited about the four evenings ahead of us here.

But first, a wander out to the edge of town to a significant viewpoint just half an hour’s walk from our new home. Puerto Iguazu really is a frontier town, and at this vantage point we are virtually a stone’s throw from two other countries. In the photograph below, we are standing in Argentina, the land across the river to the right is Brazil, and the land across the river to the left is Paraguay. This is the point known unsurprisingly as Tres Fronteras, where the flags of the three countries are proudly displayed, close to a memorial to those who died in the Falklands War which bears the legend “Las Malvinas Son Argentinas”. Maybe we should pretend to be American.

And so a return to the falls, to view this incredible spectacle from the other side. In fact visiting the falls in Argentina is quite different from in Brazil: firstly, a narrow gauge railway takes visitors to the trailheads, from where the upper and lower trails begin their respective routes. With 80% of the falls on this, the Argentinian, side, the views aren’t as expansive, but instead present dramatic alternative views as the walkways cross the tops of the various falls – vertiginous views of the water tumbling hundreds of feet to the canyon below. It’s a very different, yet equally thrilling, experience.

Along the trails, we occasionally see, submerged in the fast flowing water, broken brick pillars and twisted metal handrails. These are the remnants of the previous trails which were completely washed away in 1992 when, after severe rainfall lasting several days, the volume of water crashing over the falls increased TWENTYFOLD compared to normal levels. Islands as well walkways were lost for ever. Compare that to 1978 when these colossal cascades almost ran dry in an unprecedented drought.

Given that we are now upstream and thus on the feed side, the return leg of the upper trail is through picturesque scenes where the various waterways wend their way through lush forest just before they are thrown spectacularly over the edge. The two trails are visually very rewarding.

The more we explore the leafy streets of the town of Puerto Iguazu the more we like it, there is a calmness in its days which is matched by the verve of its evenings. We’ve seen the town described on some websites as a “jungle town” – our own feelings are that with every street being lined with trees and with so much leafy shade throughout town, Puerto Iguazu must be just about invisible from the air. There’s a delightful little gem hidden in those streets, too.

Jardin de los Picaflores is an absolute delight to visit, and such an unusual and stimulating place. This tiny private garden has been adapted by the family owners in order to attract as much of the local hummingbird population as possible, and wow have they been successful. It’s a spine tingling experience to sit or stand in this place, surrounded by greenery, while literally dozens and dozens of hummingbirds – many different species – visit feeders and flowers within a couple of feet of us, hovering and extracting nectar in their unique style in front of our faces and above our heads. Watching is mesmerising and is one of those experiences where time just drifts away. Remember, none of these birds are captive: this is simply a garden where the owners have made it a paradise for hummingbirds. It’s an amazing little corner of the world. Take a few seconds to watch this delightful video clip…..

For our final day here we re-enter the National Park, but instead of heading to the falls we follow the Sendero Macuco (macaque trail) which soon lives up to its name as the little fellas laze or play in the trees. Like everywhere in these parts, outrageously colourful butterflies cross our path, flit between the trees and even occasionally settle on our flesh or clothing. So many butterflies! They are a lot more attractive than the dastardly wasp which decides to have a bit of spiteful fun and plunge its sting into my finger when I’ve done nothing at all to upset it. Well thank you Mister Wasp.

These few days have been a really interesting brief glimpse of Argentina, with  clues as to the different culture, the people and the way of life here, and, as we thought it might, has seriously triggered thoughts of a long, long tour through various South American countries. Hmmm, something to think about.

In the meantime, it’ll be back across the border to Brazil tomorrow, and a journey to a different part of the country from those we’ve seen so far. Maybe there’s time for one more steak and one last bottle of Malbec before we head back over the bridge…..