Alona Gain, Naturally
Well, it’s fair to say that after our gratifyingly varied journey through the Philippines we’ve definitely arrived in the holiday market tourist bit. Down at the bottom of the island of Bohol lies the small island of Panglao, and down at the bottom of Panglao lies the village of Alona, where it’s impossible to walk any distance without enjoying exchanges with tour operators, tat jewellery sellers, hair braiders, boat owners and boys selling fresh mango. Nobody’s pushy but everybody wants business and there seems to be plenty to go around.
It looks like Alona is booming too. Construction sites are a major feature, whether a new chunky hotel, spaces between bars being filled with…well, more bars…or ramshackle buildings receiving makeovers to bring them into a more lucrative era. Things are moving at a pace and the sounds of welders, hammers and excavators are almost as commonplace as the sound of music from the bars. Somebody somewhere is seizing an opportunity. Was that Chinese or Japanese writing we spotted?
(By the way, we reckon there is some sort of Law in Asia that states that every band playing live in any venue anywhere, must by decree play “Zombie” at least once during every set. Vietnam, Cambodia, Singapore…and now Philippines. What is it about THAT song?!)
Of course, the presence of tourism and tour operators means there’s plenty to do here, so we naturally take advantage and join in, and there are without doubt some very rewarding experiences in the mix. Leading the way is our visit to the tarsier sanctuary, where this tiny and endangered species is being carefully and sensitively nurtured in a natural environment.
The second smallest primate on Earth, these little tree dwelling creatures only grow to a maximum of 15 centimetres, head and body length, but with disproportionately extended hind legs and tail. Tarsiers move little during the day, hunting their insect prey by night. With eyes which are fixed and immobile and larger in size than their brain, they carry a permanently startled look as if caught in a moment of fear, using instead of eye movement the ability to turn the head through 180 degrees in each direction. They’re also very cute.
The Bohol sanctuary is both ethically sound and uniquely successful in both the study and the conservation of this unusual little animal.
Away from the land and on a boat trip to the remote circular island of Balicasag, a school of dolphins give a commendable display of acrobatics, although we’re a little bit uncertain about the manner in which the flotilla of tourist laden boats pursue them through the waves. Our boat captain informs us that the reason it was necessary to set sail at 6:30am is that the dolphins have departed for elsewhere by mid morning – well, we can probably work out why.
Just off the shore of Balicasag, the coral reef teems with fish and turtles, giving thrills to snorkellers and PADI divers alike, and even to non-snorkelling me armed with mask and held breath. Huge shoals of colourful fish light up the underwater world – not quite as spectacular as Lake Malawi but pretty damned wonderful all the same.
Back across the road bridge from Panglao and towards the centre of Bohol lies another set of strange hills, created by the same tectonic movement as the Green Hills of Quitinday which we visited a couple of weeks ago – but these don’t carry the title “green”. These are in fact the Chocolate Hills of Bohol, from which you can guess the normal colour. During the dry season, the hills’ covering of plants and grasses dies off to leave these strangely shaped, individually isolated mounds an inviting shade of milk chocolate brown. The late end to the rain this year means that unfortunately we catch them still mostly green – it would be good to see them living up to their name but they’re a pretty spectacular sight regardless.
Talking of the rain, we are yet to see anything approaching a wholly cloudless day and each day continues to have a shower or two, variable in magnitude. Our last afternoon here produces the heaviest and most persistent of those and empties the beaches as manic swimwear-clad figures quickly gather up belongings and head for the shelter of the coconut palms in a comically choreographed routine.
Alona is, as we’ve said, very much a holiday destination, but it does it well and we have enjoyed our time here. For now at least the resort vibe is at a more than acceptable level, and the beachfront restaurants beneath the palms are relaxing places to enjoy an evening meal by the gently breaking waves. It would be interesting to see how it’s been affected by the extra development in a couple of years time.
Time to move on again now, another island beckons, with maybe a hint of adventure along the way. It’s a seven stage journey from Alona to Boracay, some with very real time dependency, so punctuality will be of the essence. It’ll be another early start as we put the pieces of our one-day travel jigsaw together.
FOOTNOTE: By a string of coincidences we were able to meet up with Sarah (Travel with me) and Chris in Alona. Only in December over a London beer did we discover that we each had plans to visit the Philippines – if that wasn’t coincidence enough, the fact that we ended up without any further consultation in the same town on the same island on the same day…..
FOOTNOTE #2: Anyone remember the 1970s clearly enough to get the pun in the title of this post?
41 Comments
Toonsarah
Alona Beach gave us a great location to meet up 😀 And of course I get the Gilbert O’Sullivan reference! I hope your complicated onward journey went smoothly enough (I heard about the delayed flight and Jollybees meal from Michaela!) We’re now unfortunately on our way home – I’m writing this from a plane somewhere above Thailand, I think, courtesy of Etihad’s reasonable wifi package 😀
Toonsarah
Just realised I missed a trick there – I should have said ‘naturally’ I get the Gilbert O’Sullivan reference 😀
Monkey's Tale
Rats, I should have said that too 😅
Phil & Michaela
😂
Toonsarah
😂😂
Phil & Michaela
Or maybe a double bluff with….no, don’t get it, nothing rhymed!…
Phil & Michaela
Then you’ll be more or less home by now. We’re on Boracay now, it’s just about picture perfect!
Toonsarah
Currently at the airport Premier Inn in Abu Dhabi, flight home later today!
Phil & Michaela
Oh yes of course.
Terri
I got the pun! Keep on trucking !
Phil & Michaela
Will do 😀
Helen Devries
That title gnawed at me while I was reading the post and then it came to me, though I could not remember the singer. I shall have to look up Zombie – and probably regret so doing.
Those chocolate hills…if that were Costa Rice some vulgarian would have put a Mcmansion on the top. Nice to see them unspoilt.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, they’re very unusual and nicely unspoilt. I think the variety that Philippines offers is probably for us its greatest asset.
Heyjude
I am far too young that the title means anything to me, naturally 😉. And as for the song ‘Zombie’ that’s happily passed me by. You seem to be enjoying yourselves in the Philippines, can’t say that this place calls out to me, except for the unusual hills, and nice that you managed a get together with Sarah and Chris before moving on.
Phil & Michaela
I would say, Jude, that one of the best things about touring here is the real variety. So many different types of place, so many surprises.
Heyjude
Yes, you are seeing very different places on this trip. I have never really been attracted to the Philippines, so know nothing about the country. I am enjoying travelling with you two.
Phil & Michaela
🙂
Monkey's Tale
Yes, I sang the song as soon as I read the title. 🎶 And the Cranberries song made me laugh as we’ve had many of the same experienceswith that song. Now I’m afraid it will be in my head all day. Alona looks lovely, and there’s nothing wrong with a tourist destination, at least when it’s done right. But one where you can see Tarsiers makes it even better! The green chocolate hills are very pretty, I’ve seen pictures when they are brown, but it would be nice to see them in person. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Yes, we liked Alona, nice chilled vibe. I don’t think I ever need to hear Zombie again though…
ehacarr
Absolutely wonderful photos showing the variety of experiences you are encountering on this journey! Just love the Lomboc River photo comparing it with the beach ones and the busy nighttime scenes there. Above all methinks it is new and interesting to get to know the tiny tarsiers with their huge bulging eyes of whom I knew nought! And lovely naturally to have caught up with Sarah and Chris . . . small world as so oft!
Phil & Michaela
Those tarsiers are something else, such an unusual looking creature.
grandmisadventures
What a fantastic place to follow along with you to. I love the river and the beaches and especially the tarsiers! And to get to meet up with Sarah and Chris is such a perfect moment of coincidence is just the icing on the cake 🙂
Phil & Michaela
The tarsiers really are unusual, we were very pleased to see them as it was on our Philippines wish list from the start. And meeting fellow bloggers is always lovely….we did it in Nashville once 😂😂
grandmisadventures
😆
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Yes, I am one of the oldies who knew what your title meant. 😊 It sounds like the area is in serious transition and at this point is tipping a little more toward the gaudier end of the tourist stuff (I’m thinking of how the dolphins are being treated). Loved your pictures of the tarsiers. 😊 How great to be able to meet fellow bloggers there!
Phil & Michaela
It’s still a good place to be for now but I suspect it’s destined for change.
Annie Berger
So THAT’S what the Chocolate Hills look like, at least in the rainy season! We’d hope to visit them, too, back in 2020. Travel jigsaw – I was amused by that analogy. Glad you were able to meet up with Sarah and Chris in Alona – what a hoot! Enjoyed learning more about tarsiers, too. Great variety you’re experiencing – happy for you both.
Phil & Michaela
Those tarsiers really are unusual creatures
WanderingCanadians
Great shots of the tarsiers. I had no idea they were the second smallest primate. They are definitely very cute. How fun to meet up with another fellow blogger.
Phil & Michaela
Such unusual animals!
Lookoom
I’m a bit worried about the tourist aspect, but fortunately you didn’t just visit Alona; the Philipines have so much to offer, as you’ve shown.
Phil & Michaela
True . I don’t think Alona is the most heavily touristed bit of the Philippines by any means either
MrsWayfarer
The tarsiers are so precious. I have been to Bohol but I have never seen a tarsier.
Phil & Michaela
They are unique!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Alone Again, naturally…by Gilbert O’Sullivan. Clever. I’m still humming. I saw a post from Sarah the other day and asked if your paths crossed. Glad you were able to meet up. She is another of my favorite travel writers. Alona looks like a little place with a lot to offer. I fear it will not stay so quaint and authentic for long.
Phil & Michaela
Possibly not, Suzanne, but for now it was very cool. We liked it!
The Flask Half Full
I was born in 1970, so not much of a music consumer in the 70s. The 80s, however . . . You mean Zombie by the Cranberries?? I do like the Cranberries. Dolores O’Riordan had such a unique voice. Love the little tarsiers – had never heard of them before. And what kismet to meet up with friends in such a faraway place!
Phil & Michaela
Yes, that Zombie. Anywhere is southern Asia where there is tourism, you will hear Zombie multiple times daily/nightly, until you never want to hear it again. Tarsiers are amazing little animals, so unusual. Kismet…. nice word 😀
Alison
I certainly remember that song and started singing along. Good old Gilbert O’Sullivan. Great title for your post. Looks like a beautiful place too one that you could easily spend a few days at. You and Sarah obviously have the same ideas about off the beaten track places.
Phil & Michaela
Couldn’t resist the pun, I’m afraid. After all the variety of the Philippines trip, we seem to have reached the paradise beaches. I thought of you the other day, when in Boracay somebody said it reminded them of Bali.
Alison
Yes I’ve heard good things about Boracay, we should put The Phillipines back on our list.