Zaragoza Basilica and Puente De Piedra, Spain
Europe,  History,  Photography,  Spain,  Travel Blog

A-Z In A Day: From Andorra to Zaragoza

There’s a proper mountain air feel to our last morning in Andorra La Vella, bright blue skies but crisp air, locals hunched in jackets and jeans as they make their way through town. From the window at breakfast it has the look of a Spring morning in the Alps and it’s odd to think that at the other end of our relatively short journey today temperature may be well into the 30s. 

It’s a couple of hours on the bus from Andorra to Lleida followed by an extraordinarily comfortable, and fast, train ride to Zaragoza. Sporting our backpacks and wearing our heavy hiking shoes, we suppose the taxi driver’s question is understandable:

“You here to walk the camino?”

Plaza del Pilar in Zargoza, Spain
Plaza del Pilar, Zaragoza

“Whoa, no way”, replies Michaela, “we’re here to drink wine and eat tapas”. He chuckles, and takes it upon himself to helpfully point out some of Zaragoza’s main sights on the way to our apartment. In ten minutes he is more engaging than anyone in Andorra was at any point.

Zaragoza Town hall, Spain
City Hall, Zaragoza

Zaragoza is hit virtually every day of the year by the “cierzo”, a strong wind which blows in from the Atlantic and hits the city at full speed as it rips along the route of the Ebro river. Given that Zaragoza endures quite cold winters with regular frosts (frost….Spain…two words you don’t normally find in the same sentence), the cierzo can give winter days a “feels like” temperature of up to (down to?) minus 15.

Zaragoza Cathedral, Spain
Zaragoza Cathedral

Zaragoza, Spain
Plaza del Pilar

The wind is certainly here as we first explore the city, but is thankfully cooling the heat of summer rather than freezing our nuts off. Zaragoza is Spain’s fifth largest city, but with most of its major sights clustered around the compact old town, it’s possible to spend a few days here without feeling at any time that you’re in a big sprawl. El Tubo, the old town area, is as atmospheric as it gets, with multiple tapas bars and mini plazas tucked within the labyrinth which gets lively before 8pm and carries on until way past our bedtime.

Zaragoza Basilica, Spain
Basilica del Pilar, Zaragoza
Zaragoza Basilica at night, Spain
Basilica del Pilar, Zaragoza

What’s impossible to miss whether or not pointed out by a friendly cabbie, is the Basilica del Pilar, an exotic and giant complex which sits between the Ebro and the huge, classy main square, dominating the skyline and providing unmissable photo opportunities both from on the Puente de Piedra (Stone Bridge) or from the opposite bank of the Ebro. The Basilica is said to be the spiritual home of Hispanic peoples and as such is a pilgrimage destination for Spanish speaking Catholics from across the globe.

Zaragoza Basilica, Spain
Basilica del Pilar, Zaragoza
Puente del Piedra and Basilica Zaragoza, Spain
Puente del Piedra & Basilica, Zaragoza

It’s a huge place, its baroque towers pointing skywards with true majesty. Whilst this is undoubtedly the most impressive of Zaragoza’s sights, the other buildings surrounding the vast Plaza del Pilar are not without considerable grandeur themselves: the Cathedral San Salvador aka Cathedral La Seo and the Town Hall are almost as magnificent. These three and the remaining sides of the huge rectangular plaza together make an impressive setting.

View from Basilica tower, Zaragoza, Spain
View from the Basilica
View from Basilica tower, Zaragoza, Spain
View from the Basilica

Zaragoza boasts a history of 2,000+ years, parts of which can be unearthed just by wandering around the old city. Remains of the Roman city of Caesaraugusta, forerunner of Zaragoza and the root of its name (say it quickly a few times, you’ll get there), can be found in the shape of an amphitheatre, sections of the city walls and the Carmen Gate.

Roman wall in Zaragoza, Spain
Roman wall, Zaragoza

The later Muslim conquest of Spain saw Zaragoza become a major centre and heralded construction of the Aljafería Palace which today bears all the hallmarks of Muslim art and architecture. These major sights, and others throughout the city, are great examples of Aragonese Mudéjar architecture, said to be borne out of the tolerances of different faiths, and the co-existence of, particularly, Muslim and Christian. The result is a series of ornate brickwork patterns on numerous buildings, very pleasing on the eye and somewhat reminiscent of the brickwork we saw in southern Tunisia last year.

The cathedral houses a large and impressive museum of ancient tapestries; the interiors of both the cathedral and the basilica are cavernous and magnificent. Exploring the Aljaferia Palace interior is not quite so exciting: the palace has been extensively renovated both internally and externally and the interior now serves as the seat of the autonomous Aragon parliament. It’s still a fascinating place round which to wander, but only relatively small sections are original and the rest feels more like a museum than an ancient site.

Zaragoza celebrates two figures above all others: its founder Caesar Augustus and its favourite artistic son, Francisco Goya. Many statues and sculptures commemorating both are dotted around the city, but unfortunately the Goya Museum is closed throughout our visit.

It’s an interesting thought too that, in terms of the evolution of history, we are, whilst in Zaragoza, at what in a way is the place where the seed was sown for the Church Of England to be born. Zaragoza is the capital of Aragon, and of course it was in order to facilitate Henry VIII’s divorce from Catherine, daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella of Aragon, that the split from Rome came about and the Church of England was founded. Amusing then that we spot a self-styled “English pub” called the Canterbury Tavern as we stroll around town.

El Tubo is so alive at night, its alleys packed with revellers into the early hours, its renowned tapas bars doing brisk business for long periods – though not in the afternoon, as being in Zaragoza is like being in Spain always has been, in that siesta still rules and almost everything is quiet between 2 and 4.30pm. Public buildings, even the major sights, close, roller shutters come down over shops, bars and restaurants close the doors, and for a couple of hours nearly everyone sleeps.

Central market, Zaragoza, Spain
Central market, Zaragoza
Bullring, Zaragoza, Spain
Bull ring, Zaragoza

Food wise, the tapas here are reputedly slightly different from elsewhere in Spain, and, according to the city’s own literature, a gastronomic treat – yet we find it all rather disappointing. Much of the tapas is “tempura”, a by-word for shoving in a deep fat fryer and serving in an off putting layer of batter, and a lot of the rest is served on a chunky piece of bread the size of half a paving slab. It’s all rather larger and heavier than the delicate dishes we think of as tapas.

And so it’s time once again to move on and leave the visually exciting city of Zaragoza behind, pick up a hire car and continue our journey through the different elements of Spain. A special area beckons…

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