A-Z In A Day: From Andorra to Zaragoza
There’s a proper mountain air feel to our last morning in Andorra La Vella, bright blue skies but crisp air, locals hunched in jackets and jeans as they make their way through town. From the window at breakfast it has the look of a Spring morning in the Alps and it’s odd to think that at the other end of our relatively short journey today temperature may be well into the 30s.
It’s a couple of hours on the bus from Andorra to Lleida followed by an extraordinarily comfortable, and fast, train ride to Zaragoza. Sporting our backpacks and wearing our heavy hiking shoes, we suppose the taxi driver’s question is understandable:
“You here to walk the camino?”
“Whoa, no way”, replies Michaela, “we’re here to drink wine and eat tapas”. He chuckles, and takes it upon himself to helpfully point out some of Zaragoza’s main sights on the way to our apartment. In ten minutes he is more engaging than anyone in Andorra was at any point.
Zaragoza is hit virtually every day of the year by the “cierzo”, a strong wind which blows in from the Atlantic and hits the city at full speed as it rips along the route of the Ebro river. Given that Zaragoza endures quite cold winters with regular frosts (frost….Spain…two words you don’t normally find in the same sentence), the cierzo can give winter days a “feels like” temperature of up to (down to?) minus 15.
The wind is certainly here as we first explore the city, but is thankfully cooling the heat of summer rather than freezing our nuts off. Zaragoza is Spain’s fifth largest city, but with most of its major sights clustered around the compact old town, it’s possible to spend a few days here without feeling at any time that you’re in a big sprawl. El Tubo, the old town area, is as atmospheric as it gets, with multiple tapas bars and mini plazas tucked within the labyrinth which gets lively before 8pm and carries on until way past our bedtime.
What’s impossible to miss whether or not pointed out by a friendly cabbie, is the Basilica del Pilar, an exotic and giant complex which sits between the Ebro and the huge, classy main square, dominating the skyline and providing unmissable photo opportunities both from on the Puente de Piedra (Stone Bridge) or from the opposite bank of the Ebro. The Basilica is said to be the spiritual home of Hispanic peoples and as such is a pilgrimage destination for Spanish speaking Catholics from across the globe.
It’s a huge place, its baroque towers pointing skywards with true majesty. Whilst this is undoubtedly the most impressive of Zaragoza’s sights, the other buildings surrounding the vast Plaza del Pilar are not without considerable grandeur themselves: the Cathedral San Salvador aka Cathedral La Seo and the Town Hall are almost as magnificent. These three and the remaining sides of the huge rectangular plaza together make an impressive setting.
Zaragoza boasts a history of 2,000+ years, parts of which can be unearthed just by wandering around the old city. Remains of the Roman city of Caesaraugusta, forerunner of Zaragoza and the root of its name (say it quickly a few times, you’ll get there), can be found in the shape of an amphitheatre, sections of the city walls and the Carmen Gate.
The later Muslim conquest of Spain saw Zaragoza become a major centre and heralded construction of the Aljafería Palace which today bears all the hallmarks of Muslim art and architecture. These major sights, and others throughout the city, are great examples of Aragonese Mudéjar architecture, said to be borne out of the tolerances of different faiths, and the co-existence of, particularly, Muslim and Christian. The result is a series of ornate brickwork patterns on numerous buildings, very pleasing on the eye and somewhat reminiscent of the brickwork we saw in southern Tunisia last year.
The cathedral houses a large and impressive museum of ancient tapestries; the interiors of both the cathedral and the basilica are cavernous and magnificent. Exploring the Aljaferia Palace interior is not quite so exciting: the palace has been extensively renovated both internally and externally and the interior now serves as the seat of the autonomous Aragon parliament. It’s still a fascinating place round which to wander, but only relatively small sections are original and the rest feels more like a museum than an ancient site.
Zaragoza celebrates two figures above all others: its founder Caesar Augustus and its favourite artistic son, Francisco Goya. Many statues and sculptures commemorating both are dotted around the city, but unfortunately the Goya Museum is closed throughout our visit.
It’s an interesting thought too that, in terms of the evolution of history, we are, whilst in Zaragoza, at what in a way is the place where the seed was sown for the Church Of England to be born. Zaragoza is the capital of Aragon, and of course it was in order to facilitate Henry VIII’s divorce from Catherine, daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella of Aragon, that the split from Rome came about and the Church of England was founded. Amusing then that we spot a self-styled “English pub” called the Canterbury Tavern as we stroll around town.
El Tubo is so alive at night, its alleys packed with revellers into the early hours, its renowned tapas bars doing brisk business for long periods – though not in the afternoon, as being in Zaragoza is like being in Spain always has been, in that siesta still rules and almost everything is quiet between 2 and 4.30pm. Public buildings, even the major sights, close, roller shutters come down over shops, bars and restaurants close the doors, and for a couple of hours nearly everyone sleeps.
Food wise, the tapas here are reputedly slightly different from elsewhere in Spain, and, according to the city’s own literature, a gastronomic treat – yet we find it all rather disappointing. Much of the tapas is “tempura”, a by-word for shoving in a deep fat fryer and serving in an off putting layer of batter, and a lot of the rest is served on a chunky piece of bread the size of half a paving slab. It’s all rather larger and heavier than the delicate dishes we think of as tapas.
And so it’s time once again to move on and leave the visually exciting city of Zaragoza behind, pick up a hire car and continue our journey through the different elements of Spain. A special area beckons…
39 Comments
Nemorino
My one visit to Zaragoza was on a bicycle tour sixty years ago.
Alison
I couldn’t find the comment button! So just replying to this post! Very impressive photos Michaela, I’m assuming from previous posts that you are the photographer. Interesting place, and you did well for just one day there. As you say the food doesn’t sound too appetising.
Phil & Michaela
No we weren’t there just for day, chuck, you must’ve misunderstood the heading! We were there Saturday till Tuesday. It’s visually an exciting city.
Alison
Getting hard to keep pace!
Phil & Michaela
Ha maybe we should have a few days by the pool. I think not somehow 😂
Alison
Well it seems you don’t have appropriate attire 🤣
Phil & Michaela
True!🧜♂️🩲
grandmisadventures
Really beautiful pictures- the architecture of the palace and the cathedral are just incredible! At the top of my hubby’s bucket list is to walk the Camino so we’ve been watching a lot of of programs and the different paths of it on it and they talked about Zaragoza. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
We’ve moved deeper into camino country now so it’ll be getting a mention in our next post no doubt
Helen Devries
Father took part in the Zaragoza offensive in 1937 ……an absolute bloodbath. Together with its seige by the French in the Peninsular wars it’s always had rather gloomy associations for me, so thank you for changing that with your super photogrphs.
Phil & Michaela
Well, glad to have dispelled those memories at least to a degree. It’s a visually stunning city, much more so than we expected.
Helen Devries
It sounds as if the tapas would go down well in Scotland!
Phil & Michaela
Ha yes they probably would!
Monkey's Tale
Maybe my North American is showing but I’ve actually never heard of Zaragoza. The catedral spires are incredible, it almost looks like you’ve stretched your picture! And the palaces interior I beautiful, you really can see the Islamic influence. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Ah well it’s not an uncommon start point for some pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, hence the cabbie’s question. But it had a lot more to offer than we thought.
Toonsarah
Zaragoza looks an interesting city in which to spend a few days – I like the look of the basilica in particular. But I can’t help wondering if you chose for its initial letter, just so you could write about going from A to Z 🤣
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha, no that honestly wasn’t the case…we were looking for stop off between Andorra and next destination and Zaragoza looked a lot more interesting than Lleida!
Heyjude
I had a similar thought… 🤣
Phil & Michaela
Ha…no really… I only realised the significance when on the bus to Lleida.
Heyjude
You need to start putting maps on your posts! I am forever having to Google where you are. 😁 This looks like an interesting place. I wonder where you are off to next…
Phil & Michaela
It is definitely interesting, visually exciting and with a varied history. And the old town is just so atmospheric after dark.
WanderingCanadians
Oh wow, I never would have guessed that there was somewhere in Spain that has regular frosts in the winter. I’m sure the wind feels refreshing on a hot summer’s day though. Looks like a great spot to explore. Sorry to hear that the tapas weren’t up to your expectations.
Phil & Michaela
The rest of Zaragoza made up for it!
normareadtalktalknet
Photo’s are stunning, what a fascinating and interesting place and history.. shame you missed the Goya museum…
leightontravels
I enjoyed seeing all these familiar spots from my own visit to Zaragoza. As you show, it is such a beautifully chiselled place, although I don’t recall any wind. A thumbs down though for disappointing tapas, I think I had some decent grub in the Central Market if memory serves me well.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Ah, according to the happy smiles I saw in the last photo, the wine must be good! What an interesting and historical city Zaragoza must be. I loved learning the religious history and seeing your wonderful photos. The museum pieces hold a particular interest to me, not because I know anything about them, but because they are so beautiful. I hope this finds you safe on your travels.
Phil & Michaela
So much varied history in one city
wetanddustyroads
Beautiful photos of Zaragoza – love the Basilica del Pilar and Stone Bridge, as well as the Roman gate. Oh yes, and just a side comment to Michaela: Drinking wine and enjoying tapas is actually part of the Camino 😁.
Phil & Michaela
I think she’d take the one without the other these days! Zaragoza was definitely better than expected.
ETB Travel Photography
I’ve been very interested in visiting Andorra (and walking the camino). Happy to see pics. At least, I’ll be getting some hiking done in Portugal next week!
Phil & Michaela
Excellent – enjoy! And thanks so much for taking the time to comment, it’s always very much appreciated
ETB Travel Photography
Yes as a blogger i know how much comments are appreciated!
Phil & Michaela
We’ve just subscribed so ready to follow your Portuguese adventure
ETB Travel Photography
Thank you! I look forward to following you too!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
This is a great post and wonderful photos. Have not heard of this place! Are you going to Bilbao? We are keen on seeing that area. We head to Spain/Portugal in October. The last two photos of you look great! Enjoy.
Phil & Michaela
No Bilbao’s not on the agenda, but I (Phil) have been before, both to Bilbao and Santander. Bilbao is very enjoyable, and is home to the pintxos mentioned in our other posts, so the pintxo bars in the old town are terrific. That coastline has a very different climate from most of Spain though – as a clue, the people of Bilbao are pale skinned and don’t sport the usual Spanish suntan!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Ah, interesting. Thanks!
Annie Berger
Glad Michaela was able to replace her camera in Andorra as her basilica shots in Zaragoza are lovely!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie