Okavango & Makgadikgadi: Days In Amazing Places
The outdoor shower at Boteti Tented Camp takes us aback, not because of its temperature but more due to its extreme saltiness, so saline as to give off a sea-like odour and leave the skin feeling pinched once dried. If this in itself is hardly an Earth shattering fact, the point that it is part of the unique topography of this area just adds to the mystique and intrigue we are already feeling as we gear up to explore more of our amazing surroundings.
The natural phenomenon which is the Okavango Delta is full of features which are utterly fascinating and in some instances unique. Its annual story is this. The waters of the Cuito and Cubango Rivers swell to form the Okavango River, emanating from sources in Angola then flowing eventually into northern Botswana, growing in size as the rains of the wet season gather and flow with more and more power. As the huge volumes of water disperse into the lowlands they form the Okavango, the World’s largest inland delta, covering at its yearly peak an incredible 7,500 square miles.
This vast, almost unimaginable area is turned into a mixture of shallow water, lakes, marshlands and wetlands, submerging the previously desert like sands beneath its inexorable reach. What really makes this a unique place is that there’s no outflow, no exit river, no pathway to the ocean. Instead, this incredible volume of water, estimated to total at its height some 2.5 trillion gallons, is for the most part absorbed by the sands of the Kalahari Desert, the remainder evaporated by the blazing sun. Two and a half trillion gallons of water largely vanishes and the arid lands of winter return.
The huge water flow attracts massive numbers of birds and mammals, as do the fresh grasses, reeds and green shrubs which thrive as the waters engulf the terrain. Some 400+ species of bird are resident here, while tens of thousands of mammals come to wallow in its depths or drink its essential quality. Unbelievably, those 7,500 square miles will over the months shrink to less than 2,000 in an ordinary dry season. In a drought ridden dry season like the current one, levels are at a testing minimum.
What an amazing place, to be two such radically different settings at different times of year. For observers, the waters at their height bring migrating birds in their millions, whereas the dry season brings the animals to those areas of water which remain, grouping together sizeable herds in search of lifeblood. For the ever present humans, the greater part of the water supply is from boreholes – hence the extreme saltiness as salts from evaporated water penetrate the ground below and find the sunken supplies.
Following on from our day in Moremi, our next sortie is out on to those waters which remain, punted through the reed and weed filled channels in a boat known as a mokoro, a kind of canoe operated by poling. Our poler, who calls himself KK, glides us gracefully through those narrow channels, occasionally drifting across wider pools, eagerly pointing out wading birds, raptors and hippos along the way.
Hauling the mokoro on to an island bank, we hike for 90 minutes or so among zebras and giraffes, impala and hyena, avoiding the many holes dug by aardvark until we eventually reach a pool deep enough for a large pod of hippos to wallow and now and again indulge in a session of loud grunting. The eyes of crocodiles occasionally peer up above the surface. As the mokoro makes its way back through the channels after a picnic lunch, the afternoon sun is so powerful that even KK is struggling – I have to lend him a shirt as a makeshift head covering, so distressed is he by the physical effort of poling in the extreme heat.
Bidding farewell to a KK relieved to be back on dry land, we travel back in the jeep along the sandy dirt roads, still marvelling that this desert like scenery will become flooded marshland in a few months time. For long stretches the only green trees are the acacia so loved by the giraffes, the rest is barren and dry – dusty, sandy and lifeless. Dotting the landscape are the amazing termite mounds, so tall and pinnacled that from a distance they resemble the church spires of English villages.
The forests of wintry trees stretch for mile upon mile, yet are never dense, the competition for water leading Mother Nature to leave spaces between trees in order to increase each one’s chances of survival. Those respectful distances and the independent trees give the forests the look of plantations, maybe orchards, such is the amount of territory granted to each one.
From Boteti Tented Camp we move to the nicely named Leopard Plains Camp, to journey into the Makgadikgadi National Park where we pick up another section of the mighty but dry Boteti River. Our new guide Alex takes us way beyond even well used tracks, through deep sand byways that only experienced 4WD operators could negotiate, to those sections of the riverbed where occasional pools of stagnant water are trapped between sandbanks, providing refuge for more large herds of exotic beasts. Zebra, wildebeest, elephants and antelopes of many types share the meagre supply.
These guys are finding ways to survive: lapping the waters in the heat of the day, devouring foliage wherever they can find it, or in the case of carnivores snaring prey and then resting for long periods after consumption. Impala, other antelopes and wildebeest add calcium to their diet by chomping on the dry bones of those who have succumbed to either predators or the heat – nature is endlessly resourceful.
Just north of here are the Makgadikgadi Pans, one of the World’s largest areas of salt pans and a spectacular sight. In truth we thought our safari day was taking us here but disappointingly it doesn’t and, as a result, we won’t, unfortunately, get to see them now.
Startlingly cold nights separate these hot, exciting days, the temperature plummeting immediately after sundown. By 6:30pm it’s hard to believe it was so hot just two hours earlier; by 8:30 it’s obvious why the lodge owners provide big heavy blankets in the tents. It’s mighty cold in the desert, you know. Early mornings call for extra layers of clothing as the deep orange sunrise illuminates the stark trees and the air fills with any number of exotic bird calls. Such cold nights bring clear skies, and with virtually no light pollution we are treated to star filled scenes with a clearly visible Milky Way. Gazing at the wonderful night sky is just a little bit magical.
On the first of our two nights at Leopard Plains, an absolute delight. The last day of September is Botswana’s Independence Day and we are treated to a traditional celebration meal around the campfire, shared with the owners and the other guests, after which camp staff sing heartfelt songs with typically beautiful African harmonies drifting out from the darkness and on through the flames of the fire. Once again, it’s all more than a little bit magical. Our flesh tingles as we soak up just exactly where we are, what we are experiencing; one of those unforgettable moments of travel. It’s for moments like this that we venture so far.
October 2nd, Wednesday. The night sky was even more superb last night, shooting stars bringing another joy to the jewelled darkness; we just stood and gazed until our necks ached. Now as the birds and squirrels chatter their first words of the day, the huge orange sun rises once again behind the trees to send long spiny shadows across the sand. A couple of nervous impala visit the waterhole, eyes upon us as they drink, hornbills with their elongated bodies squawk and swoop from perch to perch. Guinea fowl hurry comically across the sand, warbling their strange language as they scratch for scraps in the dust. Forty degree heat is but a few hours away, yet for now our thoughts turn to an extra layer of clothing and a hot coffee.
The chill air will soon be gone. As, indeed, will we, heading back now to Maun, our final call before starting the long journey home. Africa is ending our time here by slipping its arms around our shoulders and kissing our cheeks with a fond farewell. Come back soon, she says.
29 Comments
Monkey's Tale
What a fascinating place. Hard to believe all of that water has no outflow. How interesting it would be to see it in both seasons, much like I’ve thought it would be in the Amazon. Love the Saddle-billed stork. So colourful..Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Yes. Like the Victoria Falls, we would be interested to return in a different season
restlessjo
I expect you’ll have a few regrets when you do get home, but you’ll have some quite incredible memories too.
Phil & Michaela
The regret is going to be missing out on South Africa, which just makes us more determined to put that right!
restlessjo
Better to launch at it with ‘fresh legs’ and minds.
Phil & Michaela
I agree!
Lookoom
Another great experience, but I understand that the accumulation can lead to a real weariness, and if there’s no excitement, is it worth going through all the hassle.
Phil & Michaela
Yep. As we said before, it’s been fabulous, but we’re done for now.
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Such a wonderful post; thank you for sharing your experience of the Okavango. I loved my visit and you have rekindled many beautiful memories of it. It’s truly a stunning, wondrous place.
Phil & Michaela
It so is. Glad to have triggered happy memories. 😁
Travels Through My Lens
What an incredible adventure you’ve had. I imagine it feels bittersweet to be heading home.
Phil & Michaela
It does, but we won’t be home for long..
wetanddustyroads
It certainly looks like a bird paradise! And the Mokoro boats are such a common sight in the Okavango Delta – I’m glad you guys took the opportunity to explore the Delta in one of these. Love that picture of the hippo looking in your direction … actually all the wildlife through Michaela’s camera lens is wonderful. And the Milky Way – we never get tired of looking at that … no matter how cold it is outside the tent, somewhere in the middle of the night, Berto and I are always outside, looking up at the sky. I’m glad you were able to end your African trip next to a campfire – hopefully it sends you back home with lovely memories of Africa (despite the negative experiences).
Phil & Michaela
Oh Corna I can tell you for certain that the good experiences massively outweigh anything else…and nothing was really “bad”, just became a bit repetitive. There’s been loads to love about this trip. And the sky/wildlife/campfire was a really good way to bring things (nearly) to a close.
Toonsarah
I’m glad there was enough water for you to be able to enjoy the peaceful sensation of a mokoro ride, although it must indeed have been challenging in the heat of the day for KK. Ours were both late afternoon, to catch the sunset. And again so strange to see the land that was so green and lush when we visited looking so dry and parched at this different time of year – but still beautiful! One experience we definitely shared with you was the contrast between freezing cold nights and hot sunny days!
Safe travels home and hope to see you soon in London 😀
Phil & Michaela
It’s still blowing our minds to think of the two extremes which are the different times of year in the delta, it really is an incredible place. Been a great way to finish. Yep, we’re bound to be in London soon!
leightontravels
Fabulous experiences, are you sure you want to go home? I love the playful look of the Mokoro boats, what a wonderful little cruise you had. Sublime shots of the wildlife abound, from the majestic hippo pod and the splendorous Saddle-billed stork to the cross-necked giraffes and beyond. The elephant skull… wow! On a side note, congrats to Derby today, you were well worth the three points.
Phil & Michaela
Hi bud. Flew home overnight so a bit weary today, but watching the highlights cheered me up quite a bit! It has been an amazing trip in so many ways but it’s over now and we’ll take stock and start planning next destinations.
Alison
Those photos are just stunning. You both look fairly comfortable in your canoe. I love that photo of the two giraffes and also the zebras around the small area of water. Your lodge looks comfy and sounds cosy. Looks like you had a fabulous independence night.
Phil & Michaela
It was so good that we were able to end the trip on a high…
WanderingCanadians
The contrast is so extreme between the rainy and dry seasons. Your boat/canoe tour through the Okavango Delta sounds like fun, minus the heat. Great shots, especially of the hippos! The termite mounds look so cool. It’s too bad you weren’t able to see the salt pans though.
Phil & Michaela
I know, it’s an incredible place, a true natural phenomenon. It would be very cool to visit in each of the two extreme seasons.
Annie Berger
I’ve long known of the famous delta but had no clue what it looked like or what an experience there would entail. Your stunning description and Michaela’s accompanying photos brought the Okavango Delta to life for me. Thank you! Like others, I look forward to tagging along on your next adventures wherever they might take you.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie, it was certainly an experience to see it all, even at its driest.
grandmisadventures
what an incredible boat ride through that grassy water. The water seems almost surreal with that mix of water and green. You certainly had some great moments of animal sightings- all those hippos especially. But I think I would pass on having a termite mound that big. Seems like these few days are such a treasure 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It was an incredibly interesting place….and those termite mounds are mad! Somehow whilst over there, we completely missed the stories about Hurricane Helene and have only heard about it now as Milton approaches and Tampa evacuates. Now I’ve read about Helene I know about how badly the Nashville area was hit. We hope you’re all OK and came through Helene unscathed 🙏
grandmisadventures
We are okay, thankfully the hurricane missed us completely. But east Tennessee and North Carolina got hit really hard. Brad’s aunt and uncle just outside of Asheville haven’t had power or water for a week. They were finally able to clear a path to get to town. Thank you for thinking of us, it means a lot
Phil & Michaela
So glad you are all safe, Meg. Milton is going to be such a disaster…we’re following the news from over here in the UK.
grandmisadventures
I think so too, these hurricanes just seem to be hitting harder and more frequently lately.