Westward To Botswana: Dirty Shoes And Itchy Feet
Before we start this next post, a shock update. A first for us, we’ve decided we’re not going to complete this trip and we’re going to head home early. There’s a variety of reasons, maybe we’ll detail them when we do a “trip conclusion” post later. We’re cutting the adventure short, which means not doing Namibia, nor, regrettably, Cape Town – but those places remain very much on the wish list. So we’ll be heading home to England in early October rather than mid November which was the original plan. Well maybe that way we’ll have time for another trip before Christmas….
Ever since we began travelling together with a trip to Dubrovnik in 2011, we’ve kept a list of each town, city and village outside of GB in which we’ve stayed – not everywhere that we’ve visited but everywhere where we’ve stayed at least one night. Nyanga is number 300, so something of a statistical landmark, memorable not really because of that pedestrian fact but more because the hotel we stayed in was so badly run that we dubbed it “Beyond Fawlty Towers”. We may have to go into more detail on that some other time but wow what a shambles of a place.
It’s a long drive across Zimbabwe from east to west, so we take an overnight break in the town of Gweru, just under six hours into the drive. We don’t see too much of Gweru, but from the little that we do see it’s an attractive place filled with jacaranda lined avenues and sturdy walls draped high with bougainvillea. There’s some heavy industry too, but the centre looks very attractive, as do the beer tables at our lodge – maybe just a little too attractive, and we fall for the attraction. Nice beer. Nice wine. Another double Amarula, ma’am? Oh, go on then…on the rocks please….
From Gweru it’s just a couple of hours on the road back to Bulawayo, where we hand back the car keys and settle once again into the Bulawayo Club in which the guy on reception hands me back one of my essential travel buddies, my little Sony speaker. Never before have I left the little fellow behind – uncanny isn’t it that the first time I do so, it’s at a place where we’re already committed to return just a week later. Another slice of our regular good fortune. We do get lucky, there’s no doubting it.
Boarding the bus in the middle of Bulawayo it’s hard to push the memories of the horrible journey in Zambia to the back of our minds, but of course lightning doesn’t strike twice and today everything is fine. Crossing borders between countries by road transport is always interesting, and we’re prepared for a bit of fun as we move out of Zimbabwe and into Botswana. Exit from the first is swift and easy, entry to the second a little more time consuming, especially with the shoe thing.
Now, we have already heard that to enter Botswana, on top of the customary passport stamping and equally customary kowtowing to po-faced officials, there is a slightly offbeat requirement to walk through a muddy puddle which is presumably some sort of antidote to spreading disease. Like the Foot & Mouth thing years ago. Fair enough, no sweat. However, what nobody told us is that this is a requirement not just for the shoes we are wearing, but for all of the shoes in our luggage too. Just imagine for a moment standing out in the open, undoing your backpack and digging out every shoe from every obscure corner, disturbing all the carefully packed items and exposing everything you own to the watching world. And then, as if that’s not enough, stuffing the newly dipped shoes back in amongst your clean clothing with wet mud still dripping from the soles. Hello Botswana.
Border crossings are such fun huh. A short time later the bus drops us in Francistown, a city with a gold rush history up there with California’s 49ers, a place which owes its very existence, and in fact its name, to the history of pursuit of that precious metal. Appropriate then that we’re staying at the Diggers Inn. Francistown was in fact the site of Southern Africa’s very first gold rush – the Francis in question was an English prospector.
We pondered weeks ago whether the onward journey from Malawi would see a gradual progression in such things as infrastructure and modernisation, but thus far the transition has been sporadic rather than progressive. Now there’s Francistown, where we feel as if we’ve made a sudden leap back into a world which we as Europeans recognise, a world which looks more like home than anywhere we’ve seen in 10 weeks. Shopping malls, paved streets, classy clothes shops, steak houses and chain retailers all vie for business, giving Francistown the distinct look of a European town. Everywhere has wifi; the 4G signal which never made a single appearance anywhere in Zimbabwe is present as soon as we’re over the border. It feels almost as if we’ve left Africa.
Botswana is one of the African continent’s better performers, politically, economically and, since a measure of success in conquering the AIDS epidemic, health wise too. Francistown seems to show all of this, its confident, brisk air feeling a million miles away from most places we’ve visited on this journey. It’s hard to believe that we’re only 120 miles from Bulawayo. Life is very different here, evidenced by the fact that more and more Zimbabweans are migrating here in search of a better life. With only 2.5 million inhabitants in a country the size of France, there’s undoubtedly room for them.
If Francistown looks like a European town as we take our first stroll, then it feels like one too – it’s cold! Our arrival here has coincided with an abnormally cold snap, temperatures in the low teens and chilly gusting winds have got the locals scrambling for their quilted jackets and grumbling that this is not normal. We haven’t seen the Diggers Inn receptionists without a large coat yet, even though they work indoors. These guys aren’t used to this!
Despite its golden history and not unconnected status as a major transport hub, Francistown has very few places of interest. We’ve probably allowed too many days here and now find ourselves filling time with forward planning, admin and housekeeping, including getting that mud off our clothes. It’s perhaps not surprising that most travellers pass through quickly. Even the town’s museum is extremely understated, consisting mostly of written commentaries and old photographs rather than objects and artefacts.
It does though have one nice touch: photographs of buildings when gold mining was thriving, coupled with chronological shots of the same buildings as the heyday waned and those buildings slowly became neglected, and ultimately derelict. Most of these are based around the mining industry and the railways which enabled the mines to succeed. The largest, the Monarch Mine, unearthed over 5,000 kilograms of gold through its life cycle. Mining continues but these days is more copper and nickel than gold, though the town nevertheless feels successful despite the gold running out, new successes evidently replacing the original one.
There’s nothing much wrong with Francistown, but there’s not much to excite the traveller here, either, and by the second full day time is starting to pass slowly. We’re kicking our heels. As we sit back in our room at the Diggers Inn, filling an afternoon hour, a Monkees track comes on the music shuffle…
“What am I doin’ hangin’ round
I should be on that train and gone
I should be ridin’ on that train to San Antone
What am I doin’ hangin’ round”
I sometimes think music shuffles have a second sight.
41 Comments
Monkey's Tale
Francistown does look quite different from anything else you’ve shown us on this trip. Too bad there’s not much to do. That border crossing is a strange one, especially with no warnng so you haven’t packed your shoes on top. Sorry to hear you’re cutting your trip shirt, hope everything is okay. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Well, it’s a travellers’ decision, nothing else. Will explain later!
Toonsarah
Of course I’m a little curious about the reasons for heading home sooner, but there’s one possible benefit as we may be able to fit in a catch up in London this side of Christmas? Once we get back from the US in mid October we expect to be in the country through to the end of the year. I’d love to hear much more about your African adventures, good and less good!
As for this post, I loved the jacaranda trees (a favourite of mine) and was intrigued by your border crossing. We crossed in Botswana from Zambia, on a little ferry boat, and didn’t even have the shoes we were wearing checked. Is it perhaps a new thing since Covid?
Phil & Michaela
Yes, we are likely to be free for London time through most of December. About the shoes, someone said it’s more to do with TB than COVID, but we’ll never really know. A pretty bizarre border experience though!
Steven and Annie Berger
It’s been a real pleasure reading about your travels. Especially since we’ll never get to many of the places. Safe travels and an easy trip home.
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Steven….well the one thing we can say for sure is that travelling Africa is different!
Alison
A bizarre experience indeed, and having to put your shoes back! I think staying in one place too long and not enough in others is a hazard of travelling. Time for some relaxation then.
Phil & Michaela
Maybe…..I can’t see us putting up with the English winter that’s for sure 😂
Gilda Baxter
Such a shame you have to come home earlier than expected, but sometimes unplanned things happen. I have enjoyed following your adventures and particularly your very honest take on every place you visit. I am glad you managed to get your Sony friend back 😀
Have a safe journey home.
Phil & Michaela
Well Gilda, this is a decision we’ve made from a travel point of view, no outside influences. We’ll explain more later!
Terrie
Well everything has a reason and I am sure your pivot has the same, keep well, keep on, big hugs.
Phil & Michaela
Hugs back! ❤️
Helen Devries
I thought I’d heard everything about border crossings…but the shoes beat it all!
Phil & Michaela
If only we’d known huh. The joke is, they checked absolutely nothing else, just the shoe thing. Except they checked the bus to make sure nobody had left bags on….but didn’t check the bags for anything but shoes. We got back on the bus shaking our heads.
grandmisadventures
That border crossing sounds different- it would be nice if they give you some kind of heads up so you would know to pack all shoes on top. I’m sorry your trip is being cut short but hopefully you can squeeze in another trip before Christmas in its place.
Phil & Michaela
I am pretty sure we will….
Heyjude
Well it’s nice to know that Botswana is still booming and oh, those Jacaranda trees. They are so beautiful and always take me back to Johannesburg where I first saw them. I’m sorry you are cutting your trip short, especially as you are just getting to my favourite part of southern Africa and before the wet season. But I know you must have your reasons.
The border crossing does sound weird. Nothing like that crossing from Namibia, but there is or was a Red Line, something to do with transportation of animals.
Phil & Michaela
Yes I had a feeling you would say that Jude….guess we will have to put our reasons in a post, but it’s entirely our decision, no outside influence or other circumstances. Just…time to go…
Heyjude
Maybe it was just too long a trip to do all in one go? Africa is not an easy place to travel through.
Phil & Michaela
You’re very close to the nub of it!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
The shoe thing is bizarre. I recall Botswana as having a different character as well. Sorry to hear that you are changing your travel plans, but sometimes we just have to do what’s necessary (I’m assuming). I have a little Sony speaker that looks exactly like yours. Great little travelling companion. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
It was a really odd border crossing! Yep, that little fellow is an essential part of filling the backpack.
Monkey's Tale
I meant to add, Do you follow Alison and Don on Adventures in Wonderland? Alison just posted an 8 part (or so) story of her overland trip across Africa a few decades ago. I think you’d really like it.
Phil & Michaela
No, not heard of that one, I’ll get right on to it. Oh and yes, plenty of tips about Chefchaouen!
restlessjo
I think I pointed Alison in your direction earlier, Phil, but never sure if the connection is made. Love the shoes anecdote, and funnily enough I just met Maggie and Richard on home territory yesterday. Our jacaranda isn’t in bloom yet but it will! Travel can’t always be upbeat and cheery. There must be times when enough is enough. Enjoy your last days- probably better for knowing the end is in sight.
Phil & Michaela
I think that’s about it, Jo….after ten weeks it’s probably time to call it a day…
Lookoom
I’d also recommend this read to anyone with an interest in Africa – it’s fascinating and full of keen observations. Thanks for mentioning it.
Lookoom
It’s already been a long journey, with so many countries and towns crossed and so many different stories told, that it must make for a big mish-mash of memories. Your articles have made travelling in Africa more affordable than I thought beyond South Africa. It’s interesting to know that there are already a few oasis where you can find western comfort for a few days, like Francistown.
Phil & Michaela
It’s certainly been interesting! Ironically though Francistown is fairly dull with very little of interest
Miriam
That shoe story on the border sounds unusual to say the least, crazy at best. Welcome to Botswana indeed! Interesting times, I’m curious to hear more about your Beyond Fawlty Towers story. And music, yet it often gives us timely messages. Safe travels and all the best with your change in plans.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Miriam….we’re still finding mud stains on T shirts now!
Travels Through My Lens
At first I thought you were joking about the border crossing/muddy shoes incident; how very bizarre. I hope you enjoy your remaining time in Africa and safe travels home.
Phil & Michaela
We weren’t sure they were being serious either for a minute. Not too good a feeling when it dawned on us that we weren’t
WanderingCanadians
Sorry to hear that you’ve decided to head home a bit earlier than expected. Although memorable, I don’t imagine it’s been an easy trip. The Jacarandas are gorgeous. I couldn’t help but laugh at the requirement to put all your shoes in a muddy puddle. Oh gosh.
Phil & Michaela
The jacaranda colour is unique, we don’t have any flowers even close to that colour back in England. As for the shoes…..ahhh, another border crossing story for the memoirs 😂
wetanddustyroads
The jacarandas are beautiful – we always joke and say that the only reason why people live in Johannesburg and Pretoria (and not the beautiful Cape Town) is because there are nowhere in the country more beautiful jacarandas than there! The shoe story sounds like a “funny movie” (except it’s not really funny). You know what I think … when you travel through Africa, it can really exhaust you.
Either way, we hope you enjoy the rest of your adventure … and that Namibia and South Africa don’t move too far down your bucket list!
Phil & Michaela
Jacarandas are simply amazing, we don’t have any flowers that colour back home as far as I know. The shoe thing is yet another story to tell huh. We’ll be heading to South Africa, don’t you worry!
ourcrossings
I love your photo of the stunning Jacaranda tree and its vibrant violet-blue blooms – I can imagine they are something of a seasonal highlight that brings a touch of magic to landscapes. I’ve read before about how if you are driving you will have to drive your car through a water basin and also disinfect all your shoes (not only the ones you are wearing, but also the ones you have packed) due to prevention of Hand, foot, and mouth disease. But it would come off as a nuisance if you haven’t prepared in advance and have to dig out all your shoes! I am sorry to hear you are cutting your trip short – I hope all is well. Aiva xx
Phil & Michaela
Yep, we knew about it but didn’t realise it was every shoe! The truth started to dawn when other passengers were going into their suitcases and pulling out a shopping bag full of shoes. Seems bizarre when they don’t check anything else at all…in fact there wasn’t even a scanner so I reckon we could have got away with just getting one pair out…..if we had been feeling naughty 😂
leightontravels
Phew for the Sony speaker! Fascinating to read this latest adventure and ever so curious about a) Fawlty Towers and b) your reasons for calling time on your Africa adventures early. The opening shot is absolutely stunning, less stunning though is that shoe nonsense, I would have been distinctly unimpressed. Francistown certainly seems to be a curious place with an interesting history; glad to see that it hasn’t been all doom and gloom ‘After the Gold Rush’. Somebody inform Neil Young.
Phil & Michaela
I’m gonna have to do a separate post about that hotel, you wouldn’t believe so many stupid things could happen in a short stay in one place. It didn’t involve lying in a burned out basement, mind you.