Livingstone: Thrills And Adrenaline At The Victoria Falls
We arrive in the town of Livingstone with high expectations and an even higher level of excitement, yet as we are welcomed into our digs by the ultra friendly staff we have no indication of just how many thrills the next few days will bring. Once in a lifetime experiences are, unbeknown to us, lurking in the trees.
Our first glimpse of the waters of the Zambezi is as the mighty river swings around to come alongside the road, its calm waters feeding lush greenery on either side in total contrast to the surrounding tinder plains. The surface looks solid, glasslike, mirroring the cloudless sky, serene enough to kid the unsuspecting visitor that to cross it on foot is possible, so perfect is its sheen. Yet this deceptively tranquil river is less than a mile from the falls, less than a mile from this calmness being thrown over the edge, cascading over the Victoria Falls and crashing into the canyon below. In less than a mile these serene waters will be falling hundreds of feet to become the raging torrents of the next stage of the journey to the ocean. Yet for now, the waters are blissfully unaware of….
Our spell is broken by the driver.
“There are lots of elephants here just now”, he says, “they have come from everywhere. You will see elephants while you are in Livingstone. Plenty elephants here just now.” Well there’s a thing.
All that we have read tells us that this is not the most spectacular time of year to visit the Victoria Falls, with the dry season well underway and the water levels approaching their lowest before the rains return. And then, this year, there’s the drought. Nevertheless we arrive in Livingstone with those high expectations, this is after all one of the seven wonders of the natural world and we are more than eager to take it all in. Even with that uncontrollable level of excitement, we have no inkling that our high expectations will actually be exceeded.
Our first sortie is down to the border where we obtain a temporary permit to cross briefly on foot into Zimbabwe, a permit which only allows us to walk across the famous Victoria Falls Bridge above the gorge, then back across the bridge into Zambia. The views to the base of the canyon more than 150 metres below are fabulous, how incredible it must have been to travel by train across here on the rails which still glint in the sun, on this wonderful feat of engineering. Part of Rhodes’s brainchild Cape To Cairo Railway, the bridge, built in Darlington, England, and shipped here in sections, wasn’t completed until nine years after the man’s death. He never got to see this particular masterpiece, nor the demise of his grand plan.
Back on the Zambia side, we head into the National Park. Following trails from the Livingstone side of the bridge, we soak in our first views of the mighty Falls, and even though this may be dry season, the drama of the Zambezi cascading over the sheer canyon side is awesome. Just imagine what David Livingstone thought as he was brought here by local tribes and became what is believed to be the first white man to set eyes on this incredible sight. He must have been spellbound: spellbound enough indeed to name the falls in honour of his Queen.
There’s places named the Knife Edge Bridge, Danger Point and the Devil’s Cataract: names sufficiently dramatic to match the drama of nature. We climb down to a place where the ferocious waters clash, known as The Boiling Pot (though the locals say Boiling Point), and stand on the rocks watching and being deafened by the raw power surging past just a few feet away. It’s been a terrific hike, and for us a fabulous double, having visited both the Iguazu Falls and the Victoria Falls in the same year. Amazing sights.
Livingstone itself is a cool little town, still overtly African but with three added characteristics: a town on the cusp of a spectacular natural site, a town which is a base for adventure, and a border town to boot. We can feel all three influences heavily as we wander its streets, markets and craft stalls – there is an upbeat vibe which is impossible to miss. Blue striped taxis compete for business, would-be vendors call “looking is free today” and there are coffee joints called Cafe Au Lait and Happy Bean. We’ve already made a significant cultural move from the remote corners of Malawi.
At one end of the High Street (Mosi Oa Tunya Road), the Livingstone Museum takes us first through Zambia’s ethnological history with much detail of the evolution of the tribes and tribal ceremonies, before we reach the life story of the man who gave his name to the town. Pioneer, explorer, missionary, mentor, reformer…. the man led a remarkable life driven by ambition, belief and what must have been more than his fair share of bloody mindedness. His legacy 150 years after his death is spectacularly rich and completely inescapable in these parts.
If setting eyes on the falls and the Zambezi isn’t enough of a thrill, our stay in Livingstone is to deliver a whole load more in the way of excitement. First, a serene boat trip on the mighty river delivers more than just a sunset, with abundant wildlife perhaps giving clues as to why Dr Livingstone named it the Wild Mile. A solitary hippo surfaces for air, a crocodile basks in the last hour of sunlight, a huge wading bird which looks almost as big as an ostrich struts along the bank – apparently it’s called a goliath heron.
Suddenly, just as dusk is falling and we’re heading back to the jetty, one of the crew takes the microphone. “Elephants crossing ahead”, he casually announces.
A hundred yards or so in front of the boat, a herd of elephants has taken to the water, pushing their giant forms into the river and swimming through the deepest channel with effortless grace. Of all our previous elephant sightings this is the first time we’ve seen a group swimming together, and it’s a wonderful sight. Witnessing them cross the Zambezi is an extra perk after a beautifully peaceful and serene cruise.
Midstream, one of the bulls mounts a female and mating begins: elephants prefer to mate in water rather than on land for reasons of ease and practicality. When you weigh as much as they do, having the water to take some of the strain is a definite plus – in fact it’s difficult to imagine, errr….no, let’s stop that train of thought now.
With the hiking trails and the views of the falls and the sunset cruise with its lovely elephant bonus behind us, one last amazing experience awaits, this time with an adrenaline rush up there with our zipline, rafting and bobsleigh thrills of previous trips. A trip to the Devil’s Pool is next on the agenda, an experience which is literally a taste of life on the edge.
Our guide takes our group of seven – we’re joined by two American couples and a German guy – first on a slaloming speedboat to a viewpoint way above the surging Zambezi, right on the tip of the escarpment, looking down at the clouds of spray with their integral rainbows. These are fabulous viewpoints away from the public hiking trails, on Livingstone Island in the middle of the Zambezi, an island which you can only access on guided tours such as this.
On Livingstone Island
And then it’s time for excitement, time perhaps to test our courage, to get that adrenaline racing. The seven of us, with guides at front, rear and centre, step into the fast running waters and wade out into the Zambezi, following an anchored rope under strict instruction to not let go even if we stumble. Up and down the rocky contours of the river bed, we reach the end of the rope and it’s time to hold hands in a human chain until we reach the next set of rocks.
We clamber over, one by one, under strict supervision, and now we’re here, at the Devil’s Pool, one of the most thrilling places we have ever been. Next, we take our turns to swim across the pool to two guides opposite – to the very top of the Victoria Falls, the world seemingly falling away below into the abyss of water spray and rainbow. Somewhere down there, nearly 400 feet below, is where the cascading waterfall finally hits the bottom.
Now, the ultimate thrill. One by one we climb on to that last rock, laying on our belly to look down over the precipice into the incredible scene below. We are literally laying face down on the very edge of the Victoria Falls, our legs held by the guides. There is nothing but water and spray separating us from the giant chasm below, just the hands on our legs and our hands on the rock stopping the raging waters from making it the last thing we ever see. This must be one of the World’s most unique experiences, and boy is that adrenaline racing now. Wow.
It’s still racing as we reverse the journey, wading back along the rope through the fast flowing water until we’re back on Livingstone Island – and still racing as they rather comically serve “high tea” to us still in our wet swimming gear. How very colonial. How very British.
It’s been an amazing, truly amazing, once in a lifetime experience. Yet another day of travel we will never forget. We came to Livingstone and the Victoria Falls with high expectations which were there to be shot down. We will leave with a clutch of amazing memories and a once in a lifetime experience.
NOTE: The Devil’s Pool experience is a benefit of being here in the dry season. When the waters are high, the views may be more spectacular, but that amazing experience is off limits. Great timing huh.
40 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
The Devil’s Pool was closed when I visited but the falls were magnificent. Fantastic photos, especially of the sunset.
Phil & Michaela
It more than compensates for the low water levels, an unbelievably exciting experience. Genuinely a huge thrill.
restlessjo
Good grief! I feel quite giddy even thinking about that last part, Phil. I was with you all the way to the elephants- an incredible experience in itself- but I couldn’t do the Devil’s Pool. I’m not much of a swimmer and the fright would kill me. I enjoyed it vicariously.
Phil & Michaela
It was a fantastic thrill, Jo. Even the walk across the water felt exciting and a bit dangerous, let alone the climax of it all. Wonderful thing to do…if you have the courage!
Gilda Baxter
Wow…very brave indeed. I don’t think would be for me, I think I am happy experiencing it vicariously through you guys. Would love to do the boat trip on the Zambezi River.
Phil & Michaela
It was fantastic, Gilda. We both rate it as one of the most thrilling things we’ve ever done.
Miriam
Wow! Just wow. Truly, you timed it beautifully. What an incredible once in a lifetime experience, your photos are amazing. Beautiful, magnificent nature. What special memories you’ll take back with you.
Phil & Michaela
What an experience, Miriam. Absolutely thrilling!
Andrew Petcher
My Dad loved the British Empire, at school 60 years ago there was still stubborn pride about the Empire but what strikes me now is how arrogant we were to around renaming places without any conscience whatsover. Great pictures of course. How brave you were.
Phil & Michaela
Yes! I’ve long said the same about changing place names just because they were difficult to pronounce! I mean….Florence, for God’s sake! As you say, I was definitely brought up (teachers AND parents) to believe that the British Empire was the envy of the world and we were respected as “the best” everywhere. Not quite correct huh. As for our event at the top of the falls….just fantastic, one of our biggest ever thrills anywhere in the world.
wetanddustyroads
It doesn’t matter how many photos I’ve seen of Victoria Falls – it remains amazing (rainy or dry season)! Of course, I’d like to see it with my own eyes – hopefully one day. For now, it is wonderful to enjoy your beautiful photos. The sunset is spectacular … but wow, those photos of you and Michaela on the edge of the falls, what a thrill! It surely is the icing on the cake!
By the way: It is interesting to read your post about the bridge that was transported from England – our upcoming post on Monday will also be about a bridge and the materials that were shipped from England.
Phil & Michaela
Amazing, amazing experience, Corna, up there with our biggest ever thrills. Fabulous, amazing feeling. I look forward to reading about “your” bridge too 😀
Heyjude
You two are adrenaline junkies! I am glad to have been there in the wet season, but even so nothing would get me into that pool. What’s next? White water rafting? Surely. Helicopter ride? Bungee jumping? I was on the Zim side of the falls and in the start of the wet season, but we did spend one night on an island in the Zambesi on the Zambian side with hippos as very close neighbours. Sadly the sunset never materialised on our sunset cruise which was in a tiny mokoro boat which was a bit too close to the water for my comfort! Especially with all those crocs about. And I want to know if you managed to resist those traders.
Phil & Michaela
Ok here goes. We’ve done rafting before (Panama by far the best) but with the low water levels at the minute it’s all Grade 5 and we think 3 (Panama) is about our limit. The helicopter is stupid expensive (300 dollars for 12 minutes!) so that’s out. The bungee is a NO. The traders are easy…no pressure at all, nothing like North Africa. As for the adrenaline fix at the top of the falls…well, undoubtedly one of the most thrilling things we’ve ever done.
Heyjude
Well I am pleased to hear about the bungee, I watched a couple of our group do that and it was frightening! Not to mention how it was for them. Blood shot eyes the least of it.
Phil & Michaela
We watched a couple in tandem too. I was just thinking “maybe” when Michaela caught my expression and retorted with a booming NO and a wagging finger 😂
Heyjude
I like Michaela 😂
Travels Through My Lens
What a truly thrilling and spectacular experience! You’re both quite brave; like Jo, I think I might have had a heart attack. Spectacular photos and narrative.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you! It was just simply amazing ….as I’ve said to others, truly one of the most thrilling things we’ve ever done, anywhere in the world.
Toonsarah
The Devil’s Pool looks like a truly awesome experience! It wasn’t possible when we visited (there was so much water we coukd barely see the falls!) so we didn’t have to decide if we had the nerve to do it 😃
Phil & Michaela
Oh Sarah we rate it as one of our most thrilling experiences to date, absolutely fantastic. A great few days in Livingstone!
grandmisadventures
Wow, what an unreal amazing experience. To not only see the falls, but to be there at the top of the falls with the rainbow behind you, is amazing. I would say 2024 has been really good for you, waterfalls wise. And elephants on land and in the water – fantastic 🙂
Phil & Michaela
A fabulous experience, Meg, we absolutely loved it. A brilliant few days in Livingstone, one way and another.
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
I will admit to scrolling through this post without reading. I was so anxious to see if you did it. There was no doubt that you did, of course. Your nature wouldn’t allow anything else. I jumped out of an airplane once and can imagine the exilleration of this experience must have felt comparable to that. It still stands as the best experience of my life. Scuba diving is a close second. If I ever get there in dry season…
Phil & Michaela
Well Suzanne, I wonder if you went back and read after you’d scrolled to the finale! There was lots to love about Livingstone, really enjoyed our few days there. Funnily enough, jumping from a plane and disappearing under the sea would be two things that we wouldn’t do….horses for courses, hey (or, as I think the US equivalent goes, different strokes for different folks)….😀😀
Helen Devries
For some reason I can’t read the post either on the computer or the ‘phone. So frustrating! Will have to find a small child to sort it. From the comments you had a brilliant experience.
Phil & Michaela
It might work now. For some reason our site was down for 10 minutes or so just now…
Helen Devries
I’ll try again!
WanderingCanadians
Despite visiting in the dry season and during a drought, Victoria Falls still looks beautiful. How fun to see so much wildlife as part of your sunset boat trip on the river. And that is one stunning sunset! A dip in the Devil’s Pool sounds thrilling! I would have been clinging to that rope for dear life! Fabulous shots of you guys on the edge!
Phil & Michaela
It was soooooo good! Truly a one off experience.
Helen Devries
Well worth trying again! What an adventure…though there is no way I would try it!
Leo was there in the dry season…he remembers walking from the hotel and jumping streams full of tiny baby crocs….and I suspect that had that trip been on offer he would have been up for it.
He was there in the period of the Matabeleland genocide and saw the burnt out hotel by the falls which had been owned by Nkomo.
Phil & Michaela
A different kind of drama altogether then. It was an exhilarating experience though, Helen – great fun!
Annie Berger
Sitting on the edge of the couch reading this post, Phil, as it was alternately thrilling and scary. Steven and I did the same bridge shot with feet in both countries but we then retreated to the Zimbabwe side for a Thanksgiving Dinner as I recall. We saw people who we now realized were in the Devil’s Pool but didn’t have a clue how they got there. I think of myself as a thrill seeker but not sure I’d have the nerve or faith to go out on those rocks and peer over the falls! Did you have to sign a lengthy disclaimer?! The sunset photos are the most vibrant I’ve ever seen – just spectacular!
Phil & Michaela
Oh yes – the disclaimer basically said that we accepted we could die and were willing to take the risk! In truth though it felt very safe – instructions as we moved were one thing at a time so there was never any confusion and, once you get to the pool, the guides hold your legs (behind) and the rock forms a natural wall (in front). Consequently it never felt like we might slip over the edge. Absolutely worth finding the courage to do it though, it’s a fabulous and pretty unique experience.
Alison
Just too scary for words, but amazing to have done that. What a fabulous trip along the river, did you channel your inner Bogart. You always have different clothes on both of you, are you backpacks like a tardis.
Phil & Michaela
Our backpacks are like Mary Poppins’ handbag 😂. It’s amazing what you get in for 15kg. My inner Bogart? I’m not sure I have such a thing, Ali. Sometimes my inner Oliver Reid tries to surface though 😂😂😂
leightontravels
Well it all looks just absolutely incredible from start to finish. Love all the Livingstone history, hopping between the countries on that bridge, the absolutely majesty of the falls and then the hair-raising dip in the Devil’s Pool. This would surely be on any committed travel addict’s bucket list. What a fabulous post!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you bud, it was certainly a change of scene, and plenty to do there. I’d definitely agree that Victoria Falls is a destination for the bucket list…both the Zambia and Zimbabwe sides, as you might see on next post!
Lookoom
It’s days like these that justify your commitment to travelling the world. It’s so far removed from our ordinary lives, so spectacular, and bathing by the falls adds something extra to so many past adventures.
Phil & Michaela
Both sides of the Falls, Zambia and Zimbabwe, have turned out to be very worthwhile destinations.