Last Call In Kenya: Mombasa, Its History And Its Surprises
We start our Monday without a clear idea of how we’ll get back to Mombasa from Diani but we’re pretty confident that it won’t be complicated. As it turns out, it couldn’t be easier: Uber, rumoured to be sketchy in terms of reliability, works fine and there’s a driver just four minutes away, the quoted rate is unbelievably cheap, traffic is light even at the ferry point and we are in our hotel reception in Mombasa at the ridiculously early time of 10:30am. And just when we think serendipity is done for the day, our room is ready, we’re able to check in straight away, and we’re out exploring our new base at least two hours earlier than we thought we would be.
And what a pleasant surprise our first foray into Mombasa is – last time we were so unexpectedly delighted by a city it was Tangier on our Mediterranean trip last summer. The old town district of Mombasa, which houses most of the city’s interesting and appealing buildings, is sited on the island originally known as Kizingo but now universally referred to as Mombasa Island. Connected to the mainland to the north by the Nyali Bridge and to the south by the Likoni Ferry via which we entered the city, the old town is home to many colonial buildings of disparate styles, former Government seats and embassies, and the famous and thriving Mombasa port.
Mombasa’s atmospheric streets reflect its many diverse influences: once part of the Omani Empire when Mombasa was a major slave trade port, taken several times by the Portuguese, lost and won by them in any number of bloody battles, then later the first capital city of British East Africa. Its strategic position on the Indian Ocean coast enabled the establishment of a thriving port and a prosperous city, thanks in no small part to the equally lucrative trades in slaves and ivory. Immigrants and influences came from afar at different points in history: Arabic and Muslim, Middle Eastern traders, many thousands of Indian workers brought in by the British to build the Kenya-Uganda Railway, the British themselves, plus of course descendants of both the Portuguese invaders and the West African slaves.
The result is a whole collection of interesting structures in different styles, connected by a maze of atmospheric tiny streets winding between them. Look up to see wooden “Zanzibar balconies”, the elegant style of the Portuguese, or unusual minarets on ancient mosques; look lower to see ornately carved heavy wooden doors, crumbling tenement buildings with uneven doorsteps and line upon line of washing.
Ambling along Ndia Kuu Road, the historic narrow alley through the heart of the old town, we pass skilled sculptors working on wooden statuettes, basket weavers concentrating on the job in hand and alley cats eyeing up the cuts hanging on metal hooks in the butchers’ doorways. Peep down any side alley to our right along Sir Mbarak Hinnawy Road and the view is backdropped by a fleeting glimpse of the vivid blue ocean.
One moment the call of the muezzin brings an aura of the Arabic world, then turn a corner and we could be in Delhi or Kolkata as tuk-tuk drivers vie for business amid the heady scent of cumin. Then as we reach the waterfront and the giant sweeping bay reveals gleaming modern structures across the water, we could be in any classy Mediterranean port city. Yet this is Kenya, this is Africa, and one of the continent’s most famous cities.
Just imagine the combination of those disparate influences on the cuisine. After three weeks in Kenya we are yet to have a bad meal – barely even had an ordinary one – but here in Mombasa, chicken shawarma, mutton curries, deep fried fish and biryanis sit right alongside Swahili stews with ugali on menus which simply shout diversity. And just as I think my tastebuds can’t be taken any closer to nirvana, somebody gives me a Swahili coffee – deep, dark and rich, and heavy with ginger and cardamom. Seriously, this is coffee heaven.
Along the main road from our hotel and in the opposite direction to the heart of the old town, the entry to the historic district is framed by giant replica tusks which both encase the road and form the “m” of Mombasa. Replaced and extended in recent times, the original signature tusks were constructed to welcome Elizabeth II on her famous yet ill fated tour of 1952.
“You’ll need your wits about you”, “be careful, it’s not just the animals which are dangerous” and the like, were common pieces of advice for us as we embarked upon this journey through Africa – our blogging friend Jude at Traveltalk has been at the forefront of that sound advice. In the tuk-tuk back to our hotel after dinner, we get hit by motor bike robbers, those who approach at speed from behind, unseen, come alongside the tuk-tuk and in an instant snatch a passenger’s bag and race off. Fortunately Michaela has followed the advice – the bag is over two shoulders and sits on the seat between us with her hand firmly on it. Consequently the brazen would-be robbers succeed in only breaking the bag strap and disappear down the road with nothing but a sense of failure. A further strong reminder for us to remain 360 aware at all times.
Within the old town and dominating a vantage point above the sea, Fort Jesus is a relic of Mombasa’s history of disputed ownership. Built in the 16th century during Portuguese rule, the fort was captured and recaptured no less than nine times in its first three hundred years, indicative of the importance of this lucrative port positioned strategically along various trade routes. The Omanis ousted the Portuguese on numerous occasions and held the port for the longest time in total, finally relinquishing control to Britain in 1895.
Nowadays the only invasion of the impressive remains is by schoolchildren – there is a large number of different school outings here today, hundreds of uniformed youngsters noisily exploring the fort and its intriguing history, just as we do exactly the same thing in the uniform not of school but of visitors from the west.
Back among those narrow atmospheric lanes the landmark buildings are everywhere: here the first American embassy in Kenya (called, perhaps inevitably, the White House), there Government Square where there is an ancient cube shaped building which was Mombasa’s first post office, constructed to enable the Indian railway workers to wire money to their families back home.
The arrival of the British and their Indian workforce called for an increase in services in old Mombasa, heralding amongst other things Kenya’s first hotel, The Africa, which opened its doors for business in 1901. What was once the hotel lobby is now a mini museum charting the history of the hotel and the construction of the railway with wonderful photographs from that bygone era. A complaints book from the time features gripes, mainly from Brits, of “cramped dirty streets smelling of fried food and curry”, which of course we find amusing on several levels.
Last word on Mombasa, maybe last word on Kenya. Inside the creaking wood of the Africa Hotel is a banner stating that in fairly recent elections, a constitution was drawn up, ostensibly to guarantee that all tribes and ethnic groups were represented in Kenyan Government. According to the banner, that pledge has been hijacked by greedy politicians who have ridden roughshod through its fundamental principles and acceded to an unwelcome autocracy. The final line of the banner gives the stark warning that the result of all this is a Kenyan society which is now “a time bomb ticking” (sic).
In our three weeks here we have heard enough to validate that rather daunting claim, despite our fulfilling experiences of this compelling country and its people. With the protests aka riots in Nairobi, the excitement and thrill of safari, followed by the chill spot with undercurrents which was Diani and now the edgy joy of Mombasa, Kenya has been nothing if not varied…
…..The scorching sun beats down on the dusty streets, humidity ramping up as the clouds of afternoon bring some fluffy cover to the previously azure sky. As I creep into the Jahazi Cafe and grab one last Swahili coffee, Michaela sidles into the craft shop opposite to buy a camel leather bag to replace the one broken by the would-be robber. The girl in the cafe asks how long we’ve been married, and for the secret of lasting love. When I jokingly tell her that I’d marry anyone who can make coffee like she does, she giggles uncontrollably and hides her face behind her hands. At the same time Michaela is exchanging warm goodbyes with the craftsman who made her new bag, all smiles and hakuna matata. It’s somehow fitting that in spite of the troubles which have surfaced on a number of occasions during our time in Kenya, one of our final memories will be of rewarding engagement with its lovely people. It will be our abiding treasure of Kenya.
35 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
I remember Mombasa very fondly and although I visited a long time ago, as I recall and as you mention, the coffee in particular and the food was divine. Looking forward to your next installment.
Phil & Michaela
We liked it and could easily have stayed longer
normareadtalktalknet
What a lovely and interesting post and again fantastic photos to go with it 🙌
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Normski. At least we didn’t freak you out with the story of the theft attempt!
normareadtalktalknet
🤣🤣
Gilda Baxter
I will have to show this post to my MIL who is coming for a 3 weeks visit from tomorrow. My in-laws lived in Mombasa for just over a year in the late 50’s. They returned in the early 2000’s and were disappointed with the changes.
Brian and I would love to visit it someday. Your photos are beautiful, I think the food alone would be a very good reason to visit.
Phil & Michaela
Hi Gilda – well yes we really enjoyed our short stay there, a city full of interest and variety
Miriam
What a wonderful post, full of insight, visual delights and a real taste of its delights and culture. Sounds like you’ve had a truly immersive and memorable experience. Thanks for sharing.
Phil & Michaela
It was pretty cool there despite the robbery attempt!
Helen Devries
I’d bet that that was where Leo ended up….
What a gorgeous gallimaufry of styles of building!
Phil & Michaela
Leo ended up where?……Mombasa, The Africa Hotel, or proposing marriage to the coffee girl??😂😂
Helen Devries
It was certainly Mombasa, on the island but I suspect the Africa Hotel was a good cut above the brothel where the taxi took him after his hotel cancelled his reservation…..while the ladies of the night were invisible and thus unavailable for offers of marriage in the morning nomatter how delectable the coffee…..
Mention Kenya even to this day and he chunters….an attempted mugging in Malindi where he had to chase the chap through the bush to recover his goods by rugby tackling him and ended up being rescued by the tourist police from a menacing crowd of the mugger’s friends did not go down well…..
Phil & Michaela
Slightly more dramatic than our bag thief attempt then!
Helen Devries
Just a bit!
Travels Through My Lens
It all looks so interesting, I particularly enjoyed your selection of doors. Sounds like a truly memorable experience.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, was an absorbing city despite the lucky escape!
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like everything worked out remarkably well in Mombasa from getting there, having amazing coffee, and not getting your stuff stolen by those robbers. And hey, now Michaela has a new bag and a great story to go with it!
Heyjude
I only ever stopped in Mombasa whilst on the journey from India to South Africa by boat. A brief stop of which I remember very little. It does look quite fascinating, including the coffee and food. Thumbs down for the attempted robbery, thumbs up for keeping the bag safe. My tip? Never carry your passports with you, only have one cash card, limited cash, one camera and one phone – keep any other possessions in a locked safe back at the lodgings if possible. Sadly I speak from experience. Can’t wait to see what you discover next.
Phil & Michaela
It was, possibly could have stayed a bit longer. Yes those are pretty much our principles re security, although of course the internet helps too…in as much as, the cards which travel with us are for accounts where we keep very little money, and make regular on line transfers from “safe” accounts to “card” accounts. Which in theory should limit the damage if something goes wrong. The card for the “fund” account stays at home!
grandmisadventures
What a dynamic and interesting city. I love how you see the different influences throughout the streets. And the giant M tusks are a fantastic entrance to the old town. Good thing you have done your research on personal security though- glad that Michaela didn’t lose her purse. Your time in Kenya has certainly been varied, interesting, and beautiful 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It was, yes, Meg. Been an interesting time.
Toonsarah
The old buildings look so photogenic, and very reminiscent of Zanzibar’s Stone Town (unsurprising given their shared histories of Portuguese and Omani rule). And I love the drama of those tusks! Such a shame your visit had to be spoiled by that robbery attempt but at least it was an unsuccessful one, thanks to your travel-sense!
Phil & Michaela
Could have spoilt it, but luckily didn’t! Such an absorbing city though, so full of interest. We could easily have stayed a little longer.
Annie Berger
A great retrospective of your time in Kenya capped by the friendly people at the end of your time in Mombasa that brought you both such joy. Thank goodness you both were none the worse for wear after the robbery attempt. Hope we’ll see a photo of Michaela’s new purse in a future post!
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha I’ll get her to include it in a future shot!
leightontravels
What a fabulous place, Kenya has now firmly moved up our list. I really had no visuals of Mombasa to draw upon, the old quarter looks so atmospheric and lord the food looks wonderful. So glad that the robbers failed, that would have been a real dampener on an otherwise wonderful stay.
Phil & Michaela
It was great, both Mombasa and Kenya as a whole – but there’s an edginess not far below the surface. It does feel, like the man said, like there’s a time bomb ticking. In a way though, you know, that edginess bubbling under the surface kind of added to the stimulation of being there. It was fascinating to listen and learn.
Alison
Another wow! Such wonderful photos and descriptions. I love the door gallery, who can resist a good door. A very scary ride for you both, luckily Michaela had her wits about her. No more mishaps hopefully.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers Ali – really liked Mombasa, could easily have lingered a bit longer.
wetanddustyroads
I wouldn’t mind walking around the Old Town of Mombasa – it’s beautiful. (Ha, and I think an electrician would probably have nightmares if I look at all those wires above the streets). The doors are beautiful — not one the same. I’m glad to read the robbers were not successful. With us it is second nature to always be careful and alert when we are in the cities and we forget to remind visitors too – the less attractive side of Africa. But I’m glad you still remember the kindness and warmth of the people of Kenya.
Phil & Michaela
Mombasa was particularly interesting, Corna…we could easily have stayed longer had we not had our flights to Malawi booked.
Lookoom
Mombasa’s Old Town looks interesting to see, I expected it to be in poorer condition, but the streets and houses make a good impression.
Phil & Michaela
Lots to capture the interest in Mombasa
Karen (Back Road Journal)
Such an interesting post of a fascinating part of the world I’ve not had a chance to visit. Thank you for sharing your photos and thoughts.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Karen – definitely a city we enjoyed!