Safari Final Stage: Tsavo West & Tsavo East
In the previous posts from our safari week we have mentioned the differences between each region, a fact which is once again very evident as soon as we pass through the gates and enter Tsavo West. For the most part, the shrubbery of Tsavo West is more dense and greater in height, so animal spotting here is much more a case of good luck rather than scanning the plains through binoculars.
Moreover, it is far less visited here, so any CB radio contact between guides is far more sparse. In a way, all this adds to the thrill of a sighting, each encounter being a rather more private affair than in previous locations. The dense shrubbery is split in half by another characteristic not seen in the other regions: an extensive, deep black lava field. The remnants of a 19th century eruption, the vast area of black rock is even now only occasionally decorated by solitary green trees – the rest lies barren. Perfectly moulded waves mark the points where the molten lava cooled and petrified.
The River Tsavo, which rises from springs on Kilimanjaro and goes on to provide the entire water supply for the city of Mombasa, cuts a crystal clear swathe through Tsavo West. A short walk along its banks reveals wallowing hippos, menacing crocodiles and an unbelievably rich fish supply including many bright blue tilapia. These waters must be incredibly pure.
After a night at Ngulia Lodge in the West, we move on from there, through the bustling town of Voi and into Tsavo East. On the way, Stanley points out our first sighting of Kenya’s national bird, the impossibly colourful lilac breasted roller, which is stunning enough when perched, then in flight opens up a wingspan of dazzling electric blue. It’s a beautiful bird.
As we enter Tsavo East, Stanley’s ever present enthusiasm starts to bubble over and he gets a fit of endearing schoolboy giggles.
“Look!”, he shouts through his chuckles, “red elephants! They are so funny”. He just can’t stop giggling. Sure enough, there they are – bright red elephants. The earth in Tsavo East is a rich red-orange, and as we all know, elephants love to shower themselves with dust. So deep is the colouring of their earth and dust shower that the elephants wander around in their colourful cloak all day, until finally they bathe at the waterhole. And then cover themselves in red dust once more. Red elephants indeed, who’d a thought it.
Our second day in Tsavo East brings a magical evening encounter with eight lions, four mothers and four young. From a restful position, they move off towards the bush, ambling past within just a few feet of our vehicle. (Note – quite a few vehicles have gathered here, not every guide conducting themselves as ethically as we would like – more on that later).
Our final safari lodge is, as Ngulia was, perched on a hillside, providing wonderful panoramic views of the vast plains, so huge and flat that the horizon seems as far away as if looking out to sea. It also means we have a wonderful viewing platform for the elephants visiting the waterholes below, young and old mingling and competing for drinking space. Watching elephants for a length of time is absolutely joyous: there is no doubting the family concepts within the herd, nor the fact that the young ones play games – you can really see them having fun. Watch them interacting for just a few minutes and you are left with an overwhelming feeling of happiness. If watching elephants doesn’t give you a warm glow, you ain’t got a heart.
For our last full day – Safari Day 8 – we take only dawn and dusk safaris, leaving us with seven hours downtime at the lodge. It’s the very first piece of downtime – and “us time” – since we left Nairobi and it feels very welcome, undoubtedly enhanced by just sitting watching those elephants at play. It’s great to relax for a few hours.
The end of our last safari day has something up its sleeve. Evenings here are gorgeous: the sun turns deep orange as it slips down towards the hills, casting a new shade on the already orange earth. The colour is beautiful, warm and deep, and for about twenty minutes before sundown the whole area is bathed in a hue we don’t think we’ve ever seen before anywhere in the world. It’s spellbinding, it’s haunting and it’s enchanting.
And if you’re lucky, a red elephant wanders into this amazing colour, just when you have your camera to hand. Of all Michaela’s wonderful pics so far, this is probably my favourite:
Blogger’s Note: If there is such a thing as an eagle eyed blog reader, and any such person is surely a rarity, they may have noticed that our 7-day safari reached Day 8. Our original plan was to return to Nairobi for one night and then travel by train to Mombasa, but in failing to properly study the geographical implications of the safari itinerary, we hadn’t realised that Tsavo East is less than 30 minutes drive from Voi. Voi is a stop two thirds of the way along our rail journey, so we purloined Stanley for an extra day, grabbed our welcome downtime (and an extra night) at the Lodge and caught the same train four hours down the line. Made sense huh?
30 Comments
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Your photos are fantastic, and agreed, the sunsets are definitely spectacular. I visited that area years ago and enjoyed it immensely.
Phil & Michaela
It’s good, isn’t it. Yes the evenings are particularly lovely
Andrew Petcher
Good pictures, I especially like the last elephant picture.
Phil & Michaela
Yes, like I said in the text, it’s possibly my favourite of all of Michaela’s shots so far on this trip.
WanderingCanadians
More fabulous captures of the landscape and wildlife. Those lion cubs are very adorable. Just seeing the elephants from your pictures brings a smile to my face. I can’t even imagine what it would be like to see them in real life. What a stunning sunset shot. The sky looks so fiery.
Phil & Michaela
It’s wonderful to be able to sit and watch elephants at play. Such a strong feelgood factor.
Heyjude
I have seen many of these creatures, but noy the lilac breastfed roller, I am sooo envious. Michaela has done well with her camera, superb shots and the last photo is a National Geographic front page. Watch out for Rock Hyrax on Table Mountain if you get up there, better known as Dassies. And strangely related to the elephant!
Heyjude
Breasted! I do wish predictive text wouldn’t do this!
Phil & Michaela
🤣😂. Oh I know. Just the other day I sent a message to a (female) friend, meaning to say “you should have sought more publicity”. When I read it back, I’d sent “you should have sought more puberty”. Ever so slightly embarrassing!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Jude, I really love that last shot too, it’s perfect. I really wouldn’t have known the elephant connection without research though – I’m gonna have to go and read about it now. 👍
Helen Devries
That elephant! What a photograph!
Phil & Michaela
Special, isn’t it!?
Travels Through My Lens
Seeing these amazing photos warms my heart!
Phil & Michaela
Excellent, seeing those elephants did too…!
Toonsarah
That last photo of the elephant deserves all the praise you’ve given it Phil, it’s really excellent, as is the sunset one too 🙂 I’m glad you saw a lilac breasted roller, they’re among my very favourite birds. Also glad you got some downtime to enjoy the lodge and its surroundings – as I said in a previous comment, for me that’s part of the safari experience too, and however good your guide is (and Stanley sounds super), it’s relaxing to have some chill time on your own 🙂 I was sorry to read not all the drivers and guides were respectful around those lions though – I believe that’s fairly unusual in Africa (though we haven’t done a safari in Kenya), but we suffered the same problem in Ranthambore in India and I know how it can impact on your enjoyment as well as cause concerns about how the animals are coping. Oh but those lion cubs are cute!
Phil & Michaela
Love that elephant photo, it’s pretty special. It was good to have that extra day and just soak it in – wasn’t part of the plan but was a happy change.
grandmisadventures
Between the sun filtered sky, the red dirt, and the elephants- you certainly got some incredible pictures. I like that you got to have these more intimate moments with the animals out here so far from other tours and people.
Phil & Michaela
Yeah…that kind of made some of the Tsavo moments even more special
Monkey's Tale
I always think secretary birds are so funny looking, but that go-away bird is pretty good too! Love the sunset and your favourite elephant pics. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Love that elephant photo. The go-away bird has just the daftest name too!
Monkey's Tale
I thought it must be a pest 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Simply to do with its call. It calls “go away, go away” constantly!
Monkey's Tale
🤣🤣 I just listened to it online! It really does say ‘go away’!!
wetanddustyroads
Your featured photo is stunning – it just spells Africa. Red elephants? Now there’s something we didn’t see in the Addo. That last elephant photo – I agree, it’s beautiful.
On a side note: I don’t think you’re going to want to see more wildlife when you finally arrive in Cape Town … rather plan for wine farm visits!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Corna….South African wine indulgence is very much already on our list for later this year!
Annie Berger
Riveting shots from Michaela – she really outdid herself this time! You must have been thrilled that you added on the extra day when you realized how close you were to catching the train down the line instead. What tour company did you use for your Kenyan safari? It sounds like Stanley made all the difference in what a great experience you had.
Phil & Michaela
We used a company based in Nairobi, called Go East Africa Safaris. They organised things pretty well and Stanley was indeed a good guy. Thank you Annie, says Michaela re the photos!
Cherryl
Amazing sunset 💛 and one of those lion cubs looks a bit like a cheetah mix lol, it’s the eyes and the black markings.
Ana Bella
Tsavo East and West were the perfect safari finale. Amazing game drives, diverse wildlife, and beautiful scenery made it a trip to remember. Truly a must-do for any safari adventure!
Phil & Michaela
We would agree….though Amboseli may just have edged it for sightings.