Migration of elephants at Amboseli, Kenya
Africa,  Kenya,  Photography,  Wildlife

Stage Four: Amboseli And A Missing Mountain 

July 26, 2024 /

To enter Amboseli via the Kimana Gate is to drive into a dust bowl. Huge plumes follow each safari truck, every animal movement is followed by the same giveaway and by the time the first hour of our first game drive has passed, our mouths taste of nothing but dry dust. But the dustbowl is but one element, there is more to learn about unique Amboseli, a set of characteristics which set it apart from Kenya’s other safari regions.

Elephants in a hurry in the dust of Amboseli, Kenya
Dust clouds of Amboseli
Watching the elephants of Amboseli from our safari truck
Watching the elephants

For a start there are four separate habitats: the dry dusty plain, a freshwater lake, a salt water lake and an extensive swamp. What really makes Amboseli unique though is the conduct of the animals – we’ve all heard of the great migrations in the animal kingdom, but here in Amboseli it is a twice daily event. Each afternoon, the wind intensifies, creating hundreds of mini tornadoes and dust devils which whip across the plain in upward spirals of dust. That wind will be too strong and the dust it carries too damaging for the animals to withstand through the night.

The swamps of Amboseli, Kenya
Swamps of Amboseli
Impala and grey Herons by the lake in Amboseli, Kenya
Grey Herons and Impala
Female Ostrich

And so, a couple of hours before dusk, a huge migration begins, as elephants, buffalo, zebras and pretty much everything else, heads away from the open plains to reach the relative security of the tree cover under which they spend each night. But the swamp is both a necessity and a lifeblood with its fresh water and lush green fodder, so around 10am the return journey begins as everything and everyone in the animal kingdom makes its way back, ambling in droves back along the paths they walked just yesterday. It’s a dream for guides and visitors alike, so predictable is the timing.

Migration of Zebra ahead of tornados in Amboseli, Kenya
Daily migration and tornadoes in the background
Morning migration of elephants in Amboseli, Kenya
March of the elephants
Morning migration of elephants in Amboseli, Kenya
On the move

After witnessing the long line of elephants et al determinedly heading for the water, we visit Amboseli’s lakes, where the bird life is again spectacular, flamingos displaying pale pink plumage, pelicans mingling with majestic herons as we lose count of how many different species we see. 

Fresh water lake in Amboseli, Kilimanjaro, hiding in the clouds
Fresh water lake, Amboseli
Fresh water lake in Amboseli, Kenya
Fresh water lake, Amboseli
Fresh water lake in Amboseli, Kenya.
Fresh water lake, Amboseli

We take a picnic lunch at the top of a solitary hill which gives magnificent panoramic views across the plains. Colourful birds move in to steal crumbs whenever the chance arises, beautifully sheen plumage glinting in the sunshine. As we leave this enchanted place, Stanley motions towards the bank of cloud to our right.

“Kilimanjaro is over there”, he says with a sheepish grin. We still haven’t seen it.

Birds of Kenya in Amboseli
Starlings at the picnic site
Birds of Kenya in Amboseli
A Superb Starling and some friends
Birds of Kenya in Amboseli
“And how about dessert?”
Birds of Kenya in Amboseli
Birds of Kenya in Amboseli
Superb Starling

A short time later there’s activity on the CB radio and Stanley hits the throttle to head to where another guide has spotted a lone cheetah. Our first glimpse sees the cheetah poised, head aloft and nose to the breeze – this cat is hungry. She moves, stealthily and in staggered movements. Safari jeeps and trucks have gathered as guides get the call – and then it dawns on us, the cheetah is using the vehicles as a shield, stalking her prey from behind the manmade barricade. Suddenly she springs, that renowned acceleration plain to see as she races across the track and through the scrub, powering towards a terrified gazelle which makes a break for cover.

Cheetah hunting in Amboseli, Kenya
Hungry cheetah sniffs the air
Cheetah hunting in Amboseli, Kenya
Ready for the chase

The cheetah is there in seconds, the two animals clash, a cloud of dust explodes into the air. When it clears, both animals are gone from view. The other gazelles and numerous zebras stare fixedly at the point in the bush where they disappeared, but all is quiet. We will never know if hunter caught prey, but wow this particular thrill was most definitely in the chase. Fantastic.

Cheetah hunting in Amboseli, Kenya
Off she goes

As if Amboseli hasn’t already thrilled us, later in the afternoon we see another side of the cheetah: the beautiful, moving sight of the mother leading her five defenceless cubs through the dangers of the African plain, guarding them against predators, keeping them safe. Their little faces, viewed through our binoculars, are as cute as domestic kittens. Mother, ever alert, is on her guard, parental defences well and truly alerted.

Cheetah with cubs in Amboseli, Kenya
Cheetah and cubs
Cheetah with cubs in Amboseli, Kenya
Cheetah and cubs

Thrilled and exhilarated by what has been an amazing day of sightings, we head back to the lodge as dusk darkens those clouds which still hide Kilimanjaro. And it’s all change in terms of our “safari family” now, as we bid farewell to the three Swiss girls who head next to Tanzania, and to Jose who must return to his duties in the Colombian Army. For the next two days, and the last two destinations, it’s just Stanley, Michaela and me.

Breakfast consumed and caffeine injected, we leave Amboseli just a little later than normal, at 7am on Monday morning. Stanley is as bright and chirpy as ever, eager to get on the road and show us more of his beloved Kenya. Will we finally catch a glimpse of Kilimanjaro?

“It’s over there, behind the mist”, says Stanley, his grin now more wry than sheepish.

Amboseli had given us some absolutely fabulous, unforgettable sights, but Kilimanjaro, unfortunately, wasn’t one of them.

Cheetah on the lookout in Amboseli, Kenya

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