Stage Three: Lake Nakuru to Amboseli
Early starts are par for the course when you’re on safari, so by the time we hit Saturday the alarm is going off at 5:15am for the fourth morning in a row and is going to carry on doing so for a few days yet. A dense mist lies over the lake, obscuring most of it from view, and a heavy dew hangs in liquid baubles from plants bent over by the weight. Birds sing and baboons talk: wildlife doesn’t need an alarm clock.
When we chose the itinerary for our safari week, we opted for the one which would take us to five of Kenya’s great safari regions, an option which is currently proving to be both a blessing and a curse. A curse because we underestimated the distances involved and there are some long journeys; a blessing because it’s already obvious that each region will have its distinct characteristics and no two will be the same.
It’s also a slightly strange feeling having such little time at these very attractive safari lodges, it’s pretty much a case of check in-shower-eat-sleep-eat-check out, except of course on the few occasions when it’s a two night stay, when the only difference is that “early game drive” replaces “check out”. This is never more evident than at Lake Nakuru, where we check in after dark and leave before the morning mist has cleared. The Lodge is obviously splendid, the views are reportedly fantastic, but we see little of either.
However, the game drives are utterly thrilling experiences with sighting after sighting to get the pulse racing. Nakuru is roughly 15 miles from the Equator, the closest overnight stay that we have experienced so far on our travels, and really does bring home the variety element of the different areas, dense greenery surrounding the large lake. And it’s here that we see the rhino – in fact we see both the black and white rhino, meaning we’ve already completed the so-called Big Five early on Day 4.
As it happens Day 4 turns out to be the longest day, and longest journey, of the week, with a lengthy morning game drive followed by a fairly gruelling 8-hour slog across country to Amboseli. We are amazed and a bit concerned for our driver-guide Stanley : by the time he’s picked up our group members from different lodges, completed the game drive and driven to Amboseli, he’s been at the wheel for 14 hours with only a couple of short breaks. That’s demanding, not to mention potentially dangerous. He does long days yet his infectious enthusiasm never seems to wane.
During the course of the long journey, we lose Ashlan from Delhi who heads off on to a different tour, so now there are six. Our base near the village of Kimana, and Amboseli as a whole, are dominated by fabulous views of Kilimanjaro. Tonight it’s obscured by the clouds of dusk, but we are told the views will be great tomorrow.
Sunday morning. It’s still dark as we take our now customary early breakfast, so the mighty mountain still plays hide and seek. Amboseli awaits, and at this point we have no inkling of the exciting day which lies ahead, only the park itself knows those secrets for now. Kilimanjaro is to prove to be far from Amboseli’s only surprise.
21 Comments
Monkey's Tale
That rhino in the trees looks like a painting. Well done Michaela! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
She says thank you 🙏
Helen Devries
Fourteen hours at the wheel! Given what safari tours charge you would think they could provide a co driver!
You must be tired too, with those long drives…..but so worth it to see the wildlife.
Phil & Michaela
Sometimes we were bushed by the end of the day yet all we’d done was ridden, ate and slept. Not ever so good for the metabolism.
The Nepal Trekking Company
Amazing !!!
It looks like Chitwan Jungle Safari in Nepal.
https://www.thenepaltrekkingcompany.com/trek/budget-annapurna-base-camp-trek-cost-11-days-itinerary-for-2023-2024/
Toonsarah
Fabulous rhino shot and you’ve certainly whetted my appetite for your next post (as if it weren’t whetted already!) But I think you’re maybe right that packing so many places into a single week wasn’t ideal. I know you might have missed a few sights but sometimes you see more variety by staying in the same place for a few days as the guides take you to a different part each drive. And for me the lodges themselves are part of the joy of a safari holiday, especially those where you can see the wildlife from your tent!
Phil & Michaela
Well, as you’ll see, we did get a bit of that later on, and we certainly had a lot of exciting and surprising sightings, so it kind of balanced out in the end. A lot of the good bits were down to our driver and guide Stanley. He was very good in many senses of the word. More on that later!
WanderingCanadians
Beautiful shots of the wildlife! It certainly sounds like you haven’t had much down time. But somehow I think you don’t mind too much!
Phil & Michaela
You’re right 😊
grandmisadventures
From what you can see of your lodging- it looks really lovely and comfortable. But who needs sleep when there are rhinos and other amazing creatures to see! Fantastic pictures of the day’s journey 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It has really been an amazing week for wildlife spotting!
Lookoom
It’s impressive to see so many large wild animals in one day. You are clearly on their ground.
Phil & Michaela
We are for sure
wetanddustyroads
Just when I think your next post couldn’t be better, this one comes up with the most beautiful photos of the rhinos – my compliments to Michaela (once again).
Phil & Michaela
She says thank you very much!
Annie Berger
You’ve certainly piqued my interest for the next day’s journey after the long drive. Thank goodness you felt safe in Stanley’s capable hands as a driver and guide. Great photos of the wildlife as always – keep them coming!
Phil & Michaela
Plenty to enjoy in that spell, Annie
Alison
I’m having such trouble getting emails from you and also being able to comment! Now I’ve been told my access for liking has been denied. Will have to wait till I’m back in Perth to have a proper look
Phil & Michaela
Mysterious things happening on Planet WP….
Alison
So that went through! So much for your senses, sight and sound especially. Your room looks amazing shame you didn’t get to enjoy it more. You’ll need a good rest after this leg of your journey.
We are travelling interstate, in Melbourne at the moment
Phil & Michaela
The safari week provided some magical moments, that’s for sure Ali