Travel Blog

That Was 2023

Well, we have to say, 2023 was a pretty good year. After the distraction which called itself COVID which reduced our ability to travel, this proved to be the second successive year in which we really did make our dreams come true. It’s been good. We broke some of our records this year too: number of days travelling (270), number of beds slept in (93), countries visited (18), each of which set a new high.

There were some real highlights too, which hopefully we’ve managed to capture below. This is how it went:

JANUARY

Countries: Panama.

Route: Pedasi-Boquete-Boca Chica-El Valle d’Anton-Gamboa-Panama City-San Blas Islands (Pelicano, Aguja, Perro Chico)-Panama City-home

Bed count: 12

Memorable people: Herbie and Erika (hosts in Boca Chica), Maya and others (fellow travellers to San Blas), the guy at Gamboa who went out of his way to help us with a tyre repair.

Best bars/restaurants: Boquete Brewing Company (beer and live rock), The Butcher (also in Boquete, fabulous steaks), American Bazaar (Panama City).

Memorable events/Bucket list items: Zip lining and white water rafting in Boquete, going by boat through the Panama Canal locks, the classic desert islands of San Blas, the wonderful setting and wildlife at Gamboa Rainforest Resort.

Low point: Arriving at an inhabitable airbnb house filled with insects and cockroaches in El Valle d’Anton.

San Blas Islands Panama
San Blas Islands

FEBRUARY

Countries: Italy, Switzerland

Route: home-Milan-St Moritz-Zermatt-home-Padstow-home

Bed count: 20

Best bars/restaurants: Hexenbar (Zermatt), pubs in Padstow as ever, Parkerville in Herne Bay (our best local micro pub).

Memorable events/bucket list items: Journeys on the Bernina Express and Glacier Express, seeing the Matterhorn at close quarters, the White Turf meeting (horse racing on snow).

White Turf racing in St Moritz Switzerland
White turf

MARCH

Countries: India, Nepal, Vietnam.

Route: home-Delhi-Gayá-Bodhgaya-Varanasi-Lumbini-Gorakhpur-Balrampur-Agra-Delhi-Hanoi-Ha Long Bay-Tam Coc-Hue.

Bed count: 32

Memorable people: Bob, Ben and Patrick on the Buddha train.

Best bars/restaurants: Embassy (Delhi, great paneer curries), Ninh Loam Rose (Tam Coc)

Memorable events/bucket list items: The Buddha train “cruise”, revisiting the Taj Mahal; revisiting Varanasi and witnessing the aarti again; the Halong Bay cruise; the amazing scenery around Tam Coc.

Low points: Disrespectful behaviour of rich Indians on the Buddha train; the chaotic border crossing into Nepal; floating garbage in Halong Bay.

Halong Bay and its limestone Kast rocks, Vietnam
Halong Bay

APRIL

Countries: Vietnam, Cambodia 

Route: Hue-Hoi An-Da Nang-Can Tho-Ho Chi Minh City-Siem Reap-Prek Toal-Battambang

Bed count: 39

Memorable people: Sarim (tuk tuk driver in Siem Reap), Var (our guide in Prek Toal), Pat (hilariously camp hotel worker, Battambang).

Best bars/restaurants: Just about every restaurant in Pub Street, Siem Reap, and simply great food everywhere.

Memorable events/ bucket list items: The lanterns of Hoi An, the bridges of Da Nang, the killing fields of Choeung Ek, the multiple wonders of Angkor Wat, spending a night in a floating village on the Mekong.

Low points: Rats everywhere in Can Tho.

Ta Prohm also known as Tree Temple, Siem Reap Cambodia
Angkor Wat

MAY

Countries: Cambodia, Singapore

Route: Battambang-Phnom Penh-Kampot-Kep-Phnom Penh-Singapore-home

Bed count: 44

Memorable people: Tin Tin (our guide at Battambang).

Best bars/restaurants: The Mekong (Phnom Penh), Holy Crab (Kep), The Long Bar at Raffles, Brewerkz and The Public House (all Singapore).

Memorable events/ bucket list items: The Bamboo Railway at Battambang, the bat caves of Battambang, discovering Kampot pepper and Kep crab, drinking Singapore Sling at Raffles, the rooftop at Marina Bay Sands, Gardens By The Bay.

Low points: None

Marina Bay Sands Singapore
Singapore

JUNE

Countries: None

Route: home-Padstow-home

Bed count: still 44

Best bars/restaurants: Padstow pubs as ever.

Events: None

Low points: Not travelling!

Mother Ivey’s Bay, Cornwall
Cornwall

JULY

Countries: France, Spain

Route: home-Paris-Aix en Provence-Arles-Carcassonne-Chateauneuf du Pape-Carcassonne-Vernet les Bains-Perpignan-Barcelona-Sant Pol de Mar.

Bed count: 54

People: Erica (met in Chateauneuf) 

Best bars/restaurants: Aixpression (Aix), La Part des Anges (Chateauneuf), Le Longchamp (Carcassonne), Bar Chez Jean-Louis (Vernet), a backstreet tapas bar whose name we’ve forgotten (Barcelona).

Events: Riding Le Petit Train Jaune in the Pyrenees, Pont du Gard, wine!

Low points: A joint bout of travel tum.

Pont du Gard, France
Pont du Gard

AUGUST

Countries: Spain, Andorra

Route: Sant Pol de Mar-Andorra La Vella-Zaragoza-Haro-Santo Domingo de la Calzada-Tarragona-Peñiscola-Alicante-Villajoyosa-Mojacar-Nerja

Bed count: 64

Memorable people: Roberto (host, Villajoyosa), 

Best bars/restaurants: Vinos Nicolas (Zaragoza), Malavida (Haro), Bayarri (Peñiscola), La Sal (Tarragona) where we had the best paella of the whole trip.

Events: Seeing castellers in action, walking the Caminito del Rey, pintxos in La Rioja region.

Low points: None

Caminito delRey, hiking trail in Spain
Caminito del Rey

SEPTEMBER 

Countries: Spain, Gibraltar, Morocco

Route: Nerja-Granada-San Luis de Sabinillas-Seville-Algeciras-Chefchaouen-Tetouan-Tangier-Meknes-Fes-Errachidia

Bed count: 74

Memorable people: Jo & Darren.

Best bars/restaurants: McGuinness’s Irish Bar (San Luis), Cafe Catedral (Seville).

Events: Alhambra, meeting up with Jo & Darren, discovering Tangier, wandering Chefchaouen, the incredible food at Cafe Catedral.

Low points: Being let down by car rental company.

Alhambra Spain
Alhambra

OCTOBER 

Countries: Morocco, Turkey, Cyprus.

Route: Merzouga-Erg Chebbi-Merzouga-Midelt-Fes-Casablanca-Istanbul-Girne-Iskele-Lefkosa-home

Bed count: 84

Memorable people: Mohammed and staff (hosts at Merzouga)

Best bars/restaurants: Bar Atomic (Casablanca), Afitap Kebap (Girne), The Black Penny (Girne), Hoi Polloi and Majests (both Lefkosa).

Events: Overnight in the Sahara at Erg Chebbi, long camel rides, stargazing in the desert, visiting the tanneries at Fes.

Low points: Discovering the terrible expansion of tourism and destruction of countryside in Turkish Cyprus.

Erg Chebbi Sahara desert, Morocco near Merguza
Sahara desert

NOVEMBER 

Countries: Portugal, Cape Verde

Route: home-Padstow-home-Lisbon-Sal Rei-Praia-Tarrafal

Bed count: 90

Memorable people:

Best bars/restaurants: Cegonha (Tarrafal)

Events: Hiking in Serra Malagueta mountains, loving Tarrafal.

Low points: None

Cape Verde

DECEMBER 

Countries: Cape Verde

Route: Tarrafal-Praia-Sao Felipe-Cidade Velha-Sal Rei-home

Bed count: 93.

Memorable people: Sylvia (host, Sal Rei).

Best bars/restaurants: Te Manche (Sal Rei), Cafe Encontro (Sal Rei), Melissa’s (Sao Felipe)

Events: Touring Fogo and seeing the amazing Pico do Fogo volcano, touring Boa Vista to see the incredible sand dunes by the Atlantic, the quality of the fresh tuna.

Low points: The awful seasick ferry from Fogo to Santiago.

Pico do Fogo volcano on Fogo Island Cape Verde
Pico do Fogo

And that, all, was 2023. Compliments of the season to everybody, and wishing all fellow explorers good health and happy travels for 2024.

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