The Lefkosa Half Of Nicosia
A small sign saying “Pacific Car Rental return point” is all there is to guide us at Ercan/Lefkosa airport, and with no office presence, it’s soon clear that we have to phone Pacific for them to come and collect the car.
“I have no drivers just now”, she says when we call, “send me photographs of the car and leave the key under the driver’s mat, we will pick up the car later”.
This means that we leave an unmanned rental car parked on double yellow lines immediately outside the airport terminal where it will probably stay untouched for at least a couple of hours – just imagine the consequences if you did that at a UK airport!
We are fascinated to explore Lefkosa, the northern half of the divided city of Nicosia, even though our method of entry in to Cyprus means that we’re not permitted to cross the partition line and so are restricted to the Turkish side only. Known as “North Nicosia” by the Greeks and by most of the rest of the world, the name Nicosia is rarely used at all on the Turkish side where the name Lefkosa prevails.
The Green Line partition which stretches coast to coast to split the island in two, passes right through the centre of the city, with only a couple of permitted crossing points within the city limits. We covered the background to the 1974 split of the island and the creation of the partition in a previous post so we won’t repeat it now; suffice to say that despite recent relaxations of rules there remain tensions here which surface from time to time.
However for the most part the evidence would suggest that the wall is a badge that the population, on this side at least, wear with an element which almost seems to be pride and definitely contains humour – for instance, we spot trendy bars named “Barricade” and “The Wall” both very close to the Green Line.
It’s all quite unique – Europe’s only divided city and the World’s only divided capital – and it’s very odd to see the different ways the divide is constructed and maintained. After all, it is these days a “soft border”, in other words, all you need to cross the line either way is your passport (unless of course, like us, you’re illegal), yet the barricades away from the crossing points look like those from a war zone. Streets are cut in half, neighbouring houses are in different territory, separated by anything from lofty walls to steel sheeting capped with barbed wire.
Here’s a selection of shots of different parts of the wall…. (note the “no photos” signs, we had to be sneaky)…..
We keep finding ourselves drawn to barricaded street after barricaded street, there’s a kind of quasi morbid fascination in something so peculiar, something which is such a tangible measure of just how stupid the human race can be. Still, if it keeps the peace…
The effect of the partition on Nicosia/Lefkosa is not a breakeven, Lefkosa is significantly smaller than the Greek “half” of the capital. This uneven split has a helpful consequence for travellers to this side of the city – it is very compact with virtually all of the interesting sights tucked into the tight area between the ancient city walls and the not-so-ancient partition. Churches and cathedrals turned into mosques are a common sight, where often the transition is no more than the addition of a minaret and the clearance of the interior.
Within this compact centre lie two small but attractive squares either side of the Selimiye Mosque, one of which is centred by a majestic Venetian column brought in from Salamis. Just north of the column and towards the Kyrenia Gate are the old houses of the Samanbahçe quarter, a cramped area of contiguous homes built on what was previously agricultural land. These small houses, each one of identical design, were an early example of social housing constructed during British rule to help with the city’s booming population.
Lefkosa has what we might term a “lived in” look; there aren’t many pretensions in the town and there are plenty of derelict houses as well as humble dwellings in untidy streets. That’s not meant to be an insult: on the contrary, Lefkosa is a proper, slightly gritty town which feels very real, and is all the more welcoming for that.
There is another joy here though – one which for us is extremely welcome after our previous two locations in Cyprus. The narrow streets close to the mosques and close to the central market and the Ledra Street crossing point form a relaxed, laid back quarter filled with kebab restaurants, coffee houses and bars. Gentle music plays, the draught Efes beer flows, smoke from hookah pipes drifts up the alley ways and the whole area overflows with the feel of calm, enjoyable evenings.
It’s a bit like being in a smaller town on mainland Turkey, or the Alsancak district of Izmir – a million miles away from the soulless concrete sprawl of Cyprusgrad and feeling, it has to be said, absolutely nothing like a capital city. There’s more of a content small town feel than anything else, pleasantly surprising given its proximity to a solid and contentious boundary. But for us it’s a welcome ending to what has not been a totally edifying visit to this country.
The two evenings in Lefkosa are splendid and we could easily relax and enjoy more, though in terms of sightseeing we’ve probably done all that there is to do in our single day here. Without being able to see the “Nicosia” side, landmarks are we suppose somewhat limited.
Our last morning dawns. The mosque which is just yards from the window of our final base just happens to deliver possibly the loudest call to prayer so far, breaking the morning quiet at precisely the moment our alarm sounds to send us on our way to our early flight. Our status as illegal entrants means a flight to Istanbul and a second one on to Heathrow, a seamless and stress free journey but a little on the slow side, taking 14 hours door to door.
And so we’re home, our long and eventful journey through a Mediterranean summer is over, a trip which took us over land and sea all the way from our front door to the Sahara Desert without a single flight. A trip with many highs and a handful of lows, with lessons about the reality of world politics, with some fabulous, unforgettable experiences, with wine and song and those utterly memorable pintxos of northern Spain and Seville. A trip of 114 days, our longest yet.
Time now to reflect on it all. Time to get the maps out and plan the next one too.
42 Comments
Gilda Baxter
Welcome home 😀
I have enjoyed following along and looking forward to your next adventure.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Gilda ☺️
Andrew Petcher
I found Nicosia a rather sad place, I was expecting more. We passed south to north and back again unhindered. Like you I was fascinated by the barricaded streets.
Phil & Michaela
Yes it’s free to move as long as you don’t enter “illegally” like we did. Quite liked the feel of Lefkosa though, very relaxing evening place
wetanddustyroads
I’m glad you could at least end your stay in Cyprus with Lefkosa. It looks like a nice place to go for a stroll. Wow, 114 days … it’s weird that it didn’t feel that long (at least for us!) Thank you so much Phil and Michaela, we had a great time travelling with you guys. Enjoy your own bed 🌟.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much for being a regular follower and contributor, we really appreciate it ❤️
wetanddustyroads
It’s always fun for us to travel with you – the places we see!
Toonsarah
That looks more like it, a ‘proper’ city, lived in and genuine! Your shots of the barricaded streets remind me of Berlin when we visited in the 1980s. Greetings from Madagascar!
Phil & Michaela
Wow, Madagascar! Eagerly awaiting updates and photos!
restlessjo
Stupid those barriers very well may be, but I can’t help but feel for those people who liked their neighbours before the barriers went up. When like turned to mistrust and then to hate as their families were endangered and killed. It’s very hard to understand but we really don’t seem good at living side by side, do we? Just look at Israel.
Home! For a few days I’m in a little bubble, reliving my adventures. Catching up with friends and news. Enjoy that phase.
Phil & Michaela
Yes it’s an odd thing to see, that barrier, though for now it’s a soft border. With the Greeks resisting federal unification it’s difficult to predict the future for Cyprus
ourcrossings
What can be better than ending your marvellous trip with a visit to the world’s only divided capital city, split down the centre by a UN buffer zone? Walking along the periphery of the line would be both fascinating and depressing in equal measure. Especially as normal life continues on both sides of the partition as best it can. Did you happen to notice the armed guards and graffiti pleading for reconciliation and peace? Thanks for sharing and have a wonderful day 🙂 Aiva xx
Phil & Michaela
Yes we saw both. The Turkish Cypriots voted strongly in favour of reconciliation in the most recent referendum, the Greeks voted heavily against. We’ll see what the future holds…
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I am glad to hear you are home safely. It has been a wonderful journey, traveling with you to so many places that I know we will never get to see in person. However, after seeing them through your lenses and words, we would love to visit all of them. By the way, I certainly understand your “morbid curiosity” about the border in Lefkosa. We felt the same way with seeing the very controversial border fence between Arizona and Mexico. I will be looking forward to hearing about your next journey(s).
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, Kellye, your kind words and comments are always very much appreciated 😌
Helen Devries
Thank you for taking me on your trip…totally fascinating and enjoyable all the way…pity about Cyprusgrad so thank goodness it all ended on a high note.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you for your comments Helen – always very much appreciated
Monkey's Tale
It is sad to see the barriers, but like you I suspect we’d be drawn to them as well. Curiosity about how they’re set up, how the people respond, what they see. I saw the Berlin wall but I was in high school and it didn’t really mean that much. Overall you had a great trip and it was fun to follow. 😊 Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Maggie….still looking forward to your next post from your amazing trek!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
Great to follow along on your trip and looking forward to your posts about the next one. Welcome home. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you 😊, and thank you so much for following and commenting, very much appreciated 😌
Terrie
Hi from Santiago do Compostello. We leave for Portugal this morning. When we were in Cyprus we had a great little meal at that Han in lefkosa. Strange city indeed. What adventures yiu have. We don’t clamber up rocks however the three days of narrow gague slow train makes is proud we have tried a little bit to be you two, aka ‘what would Phil and Michaela do’? When confronted with issues. Travel safely big hugs, Terrie
Phil & Michaela
Well maybe that’s because the usual answer to “what would Phil & Michaela do” is “let’s go and have a beer and think about it”! Pleased to hear you’re enjoying your travels on the “slow boat to Oregon”. See you next year!
Travels Through My Lens
Oh my, a 114 day journey is worthy of an immense celebration! What an amazing experience. I hope you made it home safely and are settling in.
Phil & Michaela
Safe yes, settling….err…no, too cold and wet!
grandmisadventures
I always find it so interesting these cities that are divided like this and the different cultures and people so close yet seem so far away. What a fantastic adventure- 114 days and all the different places you’ve seen in that time. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It’s been amazing. Can’t wait for the next one!
Lookoom
In a way, I love ancient architecture left to its own devices, without tourist conditioning and sometimes with a very different use than originally intended; this means that the mosque looks so much like a church, between gods they must make some deals.
Phil & Michaela
Yes there’s always something to like about crumbling buildings in a “proper” city. As for a deal between gods, I really don’t think I’m qualified to comment!!
Alison
So home at last, it must feel strange to be back, hopefully not too much of a let down. Anyway you have plans to make and new places to see. Lefkosa certainly seems a strange place and I probably won’t ever go, but have enjoyed your photos, loved the last one with that gorgeous pinky sky.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Ali, yep home to the cold and wet…
Alison
Nice to have a change of season, makes you appreciate the warmer places
Phil & Michaela
S’pose
Alison
😫 is this how you feel 😂
Phil & Michaela
Aha
WanderingCanadians
After being gone for 114 days, it must have felt a bit weird to return home. Glad to hear you made it back safely. It’s been fun following along on your adventures and getting a glimpse into many places we’ve never been before. Looking forward to hearing what’s next!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, yep it does indeed feel a bit weird
Christie
What a trip you’ve had! Happy planning for the next adventures!
rkrontheroad
Welcome home. How sad to see the barricades and the divisiveness that must be part of life there. Shades of Berlin and I wonder if families are split as in Korea. Looking forward to your next journey!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you again Ruth….the border has softened a bit now but it has been a distressing addition to the city through most of its history
David Johnson
Interesting since I know North Cyprus less well. Did you also visit the museum of ancient Cyprus in the St Barnabus Monastery (easily the best in North Cyprus) or the Bronze Age city of Enkomi a mile away? (When the harbour silted up the city of Salamis was built to replace it).
I am unclear if you have visited the Greek 2/3 of the island in the South? The Troodos Mountains are all in the South and not connected to the mountains along the North coast. They are full of Byzantine painted monasteries and churches (7 of them UNESCO world heritage sites) and beautiful forest walks. My favourite part of Cyprus.
Phil & Michaela
Hi David – sorry I’ve only just found your comment hidden amongst the spam stuff! On this visit, because we’d entered via Lefkosa, we were forbidden to cross the line into the Greek side. (We were technically in Cyprus illegally having flown in from Turkey). If you want to know more, scoot through some of our other posts from Northern Cyprus on our visit last year. Thank you for commenting!