The True Face Of Fes
It’s hot again now. Gone is the mountain air of Chefchaouen, gone is the Atlantic breeze of Tangier, replaced by daily afternoon highs of around 36C, but it’s a bone-pleasing, perfectly dry heat with none of the humidity of Asia. Local guys tell us we’re “lucky”, just recently Fes experienced a prolonged spell during which temperatures were another 10 degrees higher than this every day.
Fes is not always blessed with good press. “It’s too big, a massive city”…”you will be pestered by guides and touts every second”…”it’s too touristy, it’s not real any more”…”for hassling it’s worse than Marrakech” were among the things we were told, or had read, before we arrived here. We categorically disagree with all of them: Fes is good and don’t let anyone tell you different! Well, actually, it is a big city when we see the full sprawl, but for our time here we confine ourselves to the compact old part of town which doesn’t feel one bit like a big city.
In fact the older part of the city is as authentically Moroccan as anywhere we’ve seen, ancient crumbling buildings crammed together in tight spaces, apertures in rendered walls from which faces have looked down on the medina for centuries. It’s almost Middle Eastern – indeed, almost biblical – in appearance. Across town, the Jewish quarter is even more atmospheric, even more cramped and tight. This area, Mellah, has given its name to all Jewish quarters throughout Morocco, all are known as “the mellah”.
Yet again the medina is a maze, and is this time a maze on a grand scale with, we’re told, 4,100 streets, but somehow the atmosphere is relaxed and it’s a pleasure to wander amongst not only the souks but also the workshops where experts busy themselves in time honoured crafts. We’d heard so much about pestering, aggressive selling and theft, yet there’s not a hint.
“I can tell you why”, says the guy showing us around the tannery, “there are five hundred policemen working in the medina now. Nobody is allowed to treat tourists badly, or they lose their shop or maybe go to prison. Nobody wants that”.
When we comment that we haven’t seen a single policeman, he replies…
“Of course you haven’t. They are dressed like me, in plain clothes. That’s how it works”. How interesting. Well, Fes is definitely not the hotbed of hostility some sites would have you believe, regardless of whether or not the Law’s initiative is responsible. It’s also definitely not fake, as some would suggest: yes it’s on the tourist trail to a degree, but the medina, the cafes and restaurants, the streets….all have large numbers of locals going about their daily lives, including buying from the souks and the workshops.
One of the oldest cities in all of Morocco, Fes is home to craftsmanship and specialist trades dating back centuries, many of which pride themselves on still following traditional methods handed down through generations of skilled tradesmen and women. Among the most revered are mosaic and tile work, pottery, metal work, jewellery and shoemaking, and the renowned leatherwork of the Fes tannery.
Getting the chance to study these craftsmen at work, absorbed in their trade and blissfully unaware of being watched, is fascinating beyond words; it’s easy to lose ourselves in a world of skill as we become mesmerised by the different types of intricate work. We watch couscous pans being moulded by a man who also makes boilers, see ornate Moroccan lamps taking shape before our eyes, a man with giant hands delicately sculpting miniature stonework, pottery being hand painted in minuscule detail.
But probably the most impressive of all, and maybe one of Fes’s greatest claims to fame, is the Chouwara tannery. Reputed to be Morocco’s oldest tannery and placed by some historians as being here as early as the 12th century, Chouwara is claimed by locals to be the very origin of the World’s tanning industry. It’s fascinating to stand on a terrace above, watching the various stages of the process, the hides of four different mammals making their way into clothing, footwear, baggage and furniture.
Vats of different coloured dyes await the cleaned and protected hide, men standing knee deep in the vivid pools, treading the hides into the colouring then leaving them to soak. The well known putrid stench of a tannery is caused by the cleaning and preservation process rather than by the hides themselves, not too surprising given that the source of ammonia for this purpose is a heady mix of water and huge quantities of pigeon shit. By the way, there’s a supply chain, a lucrative business in housing pigeons and scooping up the crap for sale to the tannery. Anyone fancy a new business opportunity? Thought not.
Cash is still king in Morocco and for the next leg of the trip this presents some new challenges. From Meknes onwards, it seems that even accommodation will need to be paid in cash, and many of the places we are heading to either have no ATM or a single one which is not always in service, so we leave Fes with, stashed in various corners of our backpacks, more cash than we’ve carried for years, and a small fortune by Morocco’s standards. We hope it’s safe. We hope it’s enough, too.
Improbably, there seems to be even more cats in Fes than in previous towns. So many cats. Everywhere. I’m losing hours every day tickling, stroking, cuddling and working out if there’s any way I can fit this one – just this one – this adorable fluffy kitten with pleading eyes – in to my backpack.
The food has, sadly, dived back into the mundane after the spike of Tangier. Where are all the spices we associate with Moroccan food? Where do all the fresh fruits, vegetables and spices go from the market stalls, because they sure as hell don’t end up on the menus. Couscous dishes have a giant pyramid of the stuff in every dish, the tagines are a tad more enjoyable though no more tasty. The tastiest and spiciest thing on the menu seems to be harira, the Moroccan soup, but otherwise, we’re in danger of suffering tagine overload. The tagine genie? Maybe.
These inconveniences are small matters compared to the thrill of experiencing towns such as these: there’s no doubting how much we have enjoyed Fes. It’s an absorbing and engaging city dominated by traditional crafts which take real skill, skills passed on from generation to generation. Far from being unpleasant, Fes is a place which has restored our faith that not everywhere are traditions and customs being lost; not everywhere has submitted to the demands of instant gratification.
We could have bought a truckload of stuff for our home back in England here in Fes. A tagine pot is not on that list just now.
31 Comments
ourcrossings
Wow, what a fantastic place. I’d love to visit Fez and lose myself in the narrow streets of Fes Medina. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
Phil & Michaela
Definitely recommended!
Alison
Such an amazing place, I wonder you didn’t get lost in the labyrinth of streets. Shame about the food, strange though as you say. How was your accommodation here?
Phil & Michaela
We stayed in a beautiful 450-year old riad just outside the medina gates, unusual places because they are so very dark at night, but very comfortable accommodation nonetheless. Fes is great though, thoroughly recommended.
Alison
Can you post photos of your accommodation on your next posts, I love seeing where people stay
Phil & Michaela
Maybe…
Toonsarah
Unlike you I’ve heard some good things about Fes and always fancied visiting. You’ve reinforced that wish, especially with your descriptions of the craftsmen and of the lack of hassle. A shame about the food however. I’m looking forward to seeing where you’re going with all that cash!
Phil & Michaela
A lot of the criticisms come from Moroccans in other towns, as well as the fact there’s quite a bit of online rubbish about the hassle thing. But it’s a great place and watching the craftsmen at work had real tingle factor.
Monkey's Tale
That Medina looks amazing, and good to hear there’s no more touts and hustling. I would love to see, not smell, that tannery. The picture from above of the dyes is priceless. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely recommended, Maggie, great city to explore and study the craftsmanship in progress. Loved it.
Helen Devries
That’s the problem with travel….you keep seeing things you would like to bring back – but can’t carry them!
Fez sounds just super…apart from the food.
Phil & Michaela
Yes I know! We do have quite a bit of Moroccan stuff in our house already, which makes it even more tempting to buy…
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Wonderful post, guys! Never having seen anything like it before, I found the tannery absolutely fascinating. It’s always interesting to see that some things are still done the “old fashioned way”. I would’ve wanted to bring home a lot of those beautiful copper pots – and a kitten. Safe travels!
Phil & Michaela
All these countries in North Africa are so very different from home despite really not being very far away. It was really stimulating watching those craftsmen, and the tannery is just brilliant. Apart from the smell!
leightontravels
I had only heard good things about Fez and was a little bummed that I didn’t make it during my time travelling Morocco. As for the reviews, people often have wildly different experiences of places. Luck of the draw sometimes. That said, everything you’ve shown here appeals, from the weather and the cats to the stunning architecture and friendly locals. Great shots of the craftsmen too, while the tannery is just fascinating and surely worth the trip alone. What a shame about the food, and somewhat surprising. But yes, tagine weariness is something I remember too, as delicious as it is.
Phil & Michaela
The tannery is truly brilliant. And for a small fee there are some tannery employees whose job it is to describe the process in detail to anyone who cares to listen. He was so interesting to listen to and learn from. Funnily enough, apart from online stuff about the hassle factor, a lot of the disparaging stuff we heard was from Moroccans in other towns who seem to think Fes is a bad place. Who knows whether the police initiative has changed things. Whatever, it’s a fabulous place to visit. Make sure you do a trip there once you’ve settled in Tangier 😂
Travels Through My Lens
We visited Morocco earlier this year but not Fes, now I wish we had, it sounds enticing. Great post!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you…it really is enticing. Great place, really enjoyed it.
restlessjo
It looks fascinating and it’s amazing to see so many craftsmen in one place. Skills handed down through families, I imagine? I do feel sorry for those tannery workers though.
Phil & Michaela
It was indeed a superb place, Jo, loved it. I was interested to learn how the guys in the dye vats avoided staining their flesh. The answer was, they coat themselves in olive oil before they start their shift!
restlessjo
🫨🩵
wetanddustyroads
Very interesting building styles in Fes. I like the city walls and imposing gates. And it’s always nice to see a green garden in a city. We love to see craftsmen at work – it always makes us appreciate the end product more. You’re right, the Chouwara tannery is definitely something special to see (it looks like hard work though). Oh dear, the cats are too cute – you could have bought a tagine pot and put a kitten inside 😉.
Phil & Michaela
Now why didn’t I think of that! Maybe we’ll scoop up a kitten on the way back up country!
grandmisadventures
That must have been fascinating to watch those trade skills at work. So often I think we have lost touch with those skills and dont value them like we should. How great then that Fes is keeping them alive and traditional 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Yes indeed, it was great to see that skills are still being handed down through generations
WanderingCanadians
Glad to hear that you had a wonderful experience wandering around the old part of town and didn’t have any issues being hassled or pestered. It’s neat to see all the different coloured dyes. I wouldn’t want to be the person whose job it is to soak things in there!
Phil & Michaela
Nor me!
rkrontheroad
You have certainly debunked the bad rap I have read about Fes! How novel to have plain clothes police patrolling unnoticed, good idea. The tannery tour looks quite interesting, especially all those shots from above.
Phil & Michaela
The tannery really is fascinating, but yes we were pleasantly surprised by Fes after all we’d read
Lookoom
Your trip to Morocco was really full of good times. I also felt guilty about not buying more of these skilfully made objects, which the merchants know how to present as a necessary purchase to show our appreciation.
Phil & Michaela
It was fascinating to watch them at work