Back Across The North: Chefchaouen-Tetouan-Tangier
When your driver introduces himself by saying “you can relax, I am good driver”, it’s a fair chance you’re going to be in for a buttock-clenching white-knuckle ride for the next chunk of your life, which is just how it is for our journey from Chefchaouen to Tetouan. With no rental car and no public transport between the two towns we have no option but to negotiate a fee with a “grand taxi” driver. Michaela can’t even bear to look forwards at times, this guy has what you might call an interesting overtaking technique, one which involves passing within half an inch of the vehicle he’s rounding, at great speed.
“I am good driver, yes?”, he says as I hand over the cash. I can’t bring myself to answer.
Guide books and travel websites all seem to say the same thing about Tetouan: that it’s a shame that most travellers simply pass through on their way to somewhere else, as the city has much to offer. Enough of a description to persuade us to give it a go. Even as we take our first look around, there’s something a little different here, this is a mosque-filled Muslim city with the streets and plazas of a Spanish town.
It’s pure coincidence that brings us to a city which is nicknamed “Granada’s daughter” when we’ve only just been to Granada itself. The same revolution which forced the Muslims and Arabs out of southern Spain as the Catholic church swept through Andalusia was responsible for the establishment of Tetouan as a major city in the 15th century. Many of the returning Muslims and persecuted Moriscos and Jews fled to here when banished from Spain, finding a safe haven between the Mediterranean and the Rif mountains.
But the real Spanish influence to current day Tetouan arrived in the 20th century. From 1913 until Morocco’s independence in 1956, Tetouan was the capital of the Spanish protectorate of Morocco, a period during which the Spanish considerably extended the city, basing the developments on the layout of Spain’s cities of the same era. It’s all plain to see: wide palm lined streets, open plazas, grand houses.
The connections remain strong, there is clear affection for Spain here, and, a little surprisingly, the Spanish language is ever present. It’s actually quite confusing – Arabic, French and Spanish are all merged into conversation, you just don’t know what’s coming next. “Hola” is the ubiquitous greeting yet “thank you” is always “shukran”. Coffee is served the Spanish way with hot milk yet is listed on menus as “cafe au lait”. People switch languages in mid sentence. There’s even a cafe named “Salon du Thé Ocho Rios”, work that one out!
Of course, Spain is only a very short distance away across the Med, and the Spanish enclave of Ceuta is literally just down the road. (As an aside, for football fans, the club in Tetouan is unique, being the only African team ever to have played in a top European league, enjoying several seasons in La Liga).
Our home here is a beautiful old riad right in the heart of the medina. If we thought Chefchaouen medina was a maze, this place takes the biscuit. Our hosts at the riad don’t even bother giving directions to guests – we are told to get to a certain point in town and then message the owner, who will send someone out to meet us and walk us through the labyrinth. It’s unbelievably confusing, finding our way out is as difficult as finding our way home. It sometimes feels like we’ll be in here forever – except there’s always someone on hand to help when they see we’re confused. They do seem to be very decent people here: for a start, they give us guidance and don’t ask for money.
Just like the guide books say, there aren’t too many travellers here: the medina really is still a market where the locals shop, hunks of meat hanging next door to the jeweller, barbers cutting hair within earshot of the clucking chickens waiting to be chosen by a shopper and duly slaughtered. Just when the smell of leather threatens to become overpowering, we turn a corner and find ourselves in the spice market where we can suck in more exciting odours.
Morocco’s King has a palace here, just outside the medina. We have no idea of the man’s whereabouts, but there is a sizeable armed guard presence in town just now and every route to the palace environs is protected by machine guns, rifles and even ceremonial swords, causing us to wonder if the King is just the other side of those walls. If so, surely he would have come outdoors if he’d known the hungry travellers were here. Wouldn’t he?
Just as we think we’ve got the puzzle of the medina sussed, it throws one last curved ball as we head out for the last time, loaded with backpacks, turn what we think is the correct corner only to find ourselves in a little courtyard which we’ve never even seen before. Luck is on our side heading on to Tangier though – there’s a “grand taxi” waiting for the two last passengers for its quota of six just as we bowl up at the rank, which means we get to complete the 1-hour journey for just 70 dirhams, just over £5 in total for us and our luggage.
At first sight Tangier looks delightful, a wide promenade which sweeps around the huge bay where the high rise buildings give the city a very definite European look. There’s something instantly appealing here and we are eager to explore and learn more. What we don’t know at this point us just how much we are going to come to fall for Tangier, but more of that in our next post.
We’re eight days into the alcohol-free part of this journey and feel properly in the swing of it now. Just at the point where we know our resolve is good, after an afternoon exploring Tangier’s seafront, we take a look around our rambling hotel, only to find….a fully stocked bar with terrific views of the bay. Despite all our good intentions to give our livers a holiday, you can probably guess what happens next.
23 Comments
Sue v B
Sounds wonderful.
Helen Devries
Two phrases to strike terror into the stoutest heart…..’I’m a good driver’ and ‘Trust me, I know what I’m doing’.
I accompanied to friends on the long distance bus to Granada in Nicaragua some years ago. I booked them the seats behind the driver for the best view…only to find that the had been watching in horrified fascination as he ate his lunch from the plate on his lap while resting two fingers on the wheel…
Phil & Michaela
I hope they said thank you to you for such an exciting treat…
Helen Devries
Two tough old birds, took it in their stride….
Andrew Petcher
Looks good but I wouldn’t go to North Africa again, There are only two types of driver in Morocco it seems to me, bad and very bad.
Toonsarah
Oh yes, never trust a driver who has to assure you he is good! But Tetouan looks well worth the journey 😃 I love all the photos in the Medina! And with a view like that one from your Tangiers hotel bar it would be rude not to stop for a drink!
leightontravels
Tetouan looks like a really interesting and worthwhile stop. I have made a note of this, in case I ever go back to Morocco for some more exploring. Love the Spanish influence also, which really jumps off the page. Oh lord, it sounds like a typically manic driving experience which all long term travellers have to deal with every once in a while. Luckily for us it’s been a while.
Phil & Michaela
The language thing was really peculiar, they really do mix all three in individual sentences. It all made for a very interesting stop, although I have to admit the maze of the medina did start to get to me a bit. It’s alright getting lost in one but it becomes a pain when every walk out starts with time wasting!
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Your harrowing taxi ride probably would’ve had me curled into a fetal position on the floorboard and sobbing uncontrollably! However, the payoff looks wonderful. Tetouan appears to be a beautiful and clean city, despite the fact that it’s a maze to get through. I enjoyed tagging along with you on your visit and would love to see it in person. Although, I do believe it was especially rude of the king not to come out of his palace to greet you. Safe travels!
Phil & Michaela
Yes these royal people can be so aloof! Tetouan was indeed unusual, especially the mix of languages and the big Spanish influence.
Monkey's Tale
You really make Tetouan sound uniquley appealing. Language barriers, maze like markets, wonderful architecture. It may not be for everyone, but it sounds like a great place to explore. I’m glad you made it to the other side of the harrowing, butt clenching drive 😊 Glad to say we haven’t had one of those for the last 6 weeks! Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Michaela’s face was a picture! It’s a very interesting town, definitely a bit different. But the Spanish influence is heavy and intriguing.
WanderingCanadians
Seems like you made the right decision to actually explore Tetouan rather than pass through it. The city looks beautiful with all those white buildings. Great shots of all the doors and archways. I love how each one looks so different.
Phil & Michaela
Yes it was well worth the detour to experience the marriage of cultures there.
wetanddustyroads
Tetouan looks like no other place I’ve seen – truly beautiful. It would be nice to get lost in such a lovely place (because it sure looks like a maze). And olives and dates – yummy, you’ll have a hard time getting me away from here! Ha, I agree – the king would definitely like to meet you both … maybe even invite you over for dinner. Well, cheers then to Tangier 🍻.
Phil & Michaela
Tangier was a “beer and wine oasis”, it’s back into dry territory now!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Fascinating! Livers don’t like long holidays! 😃
Phil & Michaela
Indeed they don’t….but we’re working our way towards the desert now so we’re in another dry spell. In more ways than one!
grandmisadventures
Those streets looks like a labyrinth for sure. It looks like a great place to get lost thoygh with the beautiful buildings and inticing food 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It was VERY confusing, but overall Tetouan in an interesting and unusual place which is well worth a visit.
Alison
Good you made it in one piece, must have been quite harrowing. Seems like you’ve found another off the map town in Tetouen. Love the Spanish influence.
Phil & Michaela
It was an interesting town with disorienting cultural differences!
Lookoom
I like the challenge of the Medina, I try to start exploring by always turning on the same side, right-right-right, at worst I come back to the starting point, then gradually I widen my field of action from markers that have become familiar. It takes a bit of discipline, as there are many temptations on the sides.