Unravelling Granada’s Complex Cultures
I don’t think we realised before we came here just what a melting pot of cultures exists in this fascinating, absorbing city, but we very quickly find ourselves being completely enthralled by the heady mix of history and evolution which has created the Granada of today. It really starts when we walk out of the cathedral, through a plaza or two and turn left into something which is the most stark of contrasts.
For starters, the huge cathedral, Spain’s second largest after Seville, is a bastion of Catholicism absolutely filled with religious icons, glorious paintings and reliefs depicting many stories from the life of Jesus. Yet take just a few steps away from its giant doors and the influence of Islam shines through in the architecture of the city, where the unmistakably shaped windows and apertures so reminiscent of North Africa are everywhere.
The left turn from Plaza Bib-Rambla takes us into what for all intents and purposes is a medina. Later, wandering through the tiny streets of the Albaycin district, the illusion is even more powerful: here the streets smell of incense, spices and hookahs, restaurants serve shawarma and kebab rather than tapas, shops sell carpets, lanterns, rugs. Muslim dress is common, alcohol not so. It’s impossible to shake the feeling that we’ve stepped from Europe into Africa less than a mile from our apartment.
Yet Spain is still here too. In other districts tapas bars fill pavements, tostada breakfasts dominate the mornings, palms and orange trees provide shade in the squares and busy street cleaners brush, hose and sweep walkways and thoroughfares. But this mix of Spanish and Arabic is just the first layer as the culture mix of Granada unfolds.
Above and beyond the ancient quarter of Albaycin is Sacromonte, a scarcely believable community of cave houses built into the rock faces. It’s an amazing place to see but its stories and its histories are absolutely fascinating. Granada was once a major city in the Moorish state of Al-Andalus after the Umayyad conquest of the 8th century, although a sizeable Roman settlement is known to have existed here before this time. Muslims held Granada and its environs until 1492 when this, their last piece of European territory, was surrendered to the Catholic monarchs, a move which was to signal the expulsion or forced conversion of non-Christians to the Catholic faith.
Although many moriscos, as descendants of the Moors were, and still are, called, fled, many were unable to afford emigration and opted to stay despite the enforced religious conversion, continuing to practice their own faith in secrecy and away from prying eyes. Marginalised by the rapidly growing Christian influence, the moriscos drifted to the hills above Albaycin, mostly to the hill now known as Sacromonte.
The cave houses are thought by some historians to have first been created by black slaves left behind by those Moors and Arabs who were able to emigrate after the surrender of Granada in 1492. These first cave dwellers were joined by a large influx of Romany gypsies, the so called gitanos, originating from the Punjab, next by the marginalised moriscos and then, to a less significant extent, Jews forced out of the city by the sweeping Christian wave.
These three main factions, the moriscos, the gitanos and the former slaves, had common themes in their plight: ostracised and mistrusted by the city, persecuted for their beliefs and lifestyles, pushed to the fringes of society and forced to dig out, and occupy, cave houses in the mountainside. This amalgam of people forged an inclusive, vibrant sub-culture which astonishingly survives to this day.
We try to absorb this in a couple of ways – firstly by wandering through Sacromonte where a large number of cave houses still exist as homes, and on to the rather wonderful cave house museum where several have been restored to just how they once were. And then secondly by calling in to a “flamenco cave” one evening. Flamenco caves are exactly that – former cave houses where nightly displays of flamenco dancing are performed.
But this flamenco is so very different from the flamboyant flamenco which we associate with Spain. The flamenco of flowing dresses and castanets is alive with sensuality, passion and love: by comparison, the flamenco of Granada is morose, moody and angry. Feet are stomped in temper and frustration rather than in lust and desire: these are protest songs of oppression and marginalisation, of distrust and racial stereotyping. Most dances feature just a single performer: there’s very little interplay here. Of course it’s still passionate, but with a wholly different set of emotions, a wholly different message.
The cave house population swelled still further after the Spanish Civil War when farming communities were driven off their land by poverty during the Franco era. At its height, Sacromonte had more than 2,000 cave houses, and it’s remarkable just how many survive today, still in use as private homes, as cafes or as those flamenco caves. It was in fact Mother Nature herself who finally dispersed much of the community when the severe floods of 1963 devastated many of the homes. Sacromonte may be a simple hill but it holds an incredibly powerful set of stories.
Granada possesses every lovable aspect of a great Spanish city: grand buildings, tree lined streets, tapas, wine, plazas, palm trees and sunshine – and is a contemporary, outdoor lifestyle city where residents prosper and friends socialise until the early hours. It also has the Alhambra, an “eighth wonder of the World” and a UNESCO World Heritage site which looks down on the city from high above, majestic and awe inspiring. It’s a city where you turn a corner and feel like you’ve changed continents. And then, rumbling beneath it all, this thriving, proud, unique sub-culture representing the persecuted minorities across the centuries.
But let’s not let this distract from the lively, thriving city which Granada clearly is. It would be possible to miss the deeply cultural history altogether and still fall in love with Granada, where no district is without appeal and the very essence of Spain is woven into its fabric.
It’s a fabulous, engaging city with layer upon layer of character. We have found it to be rather special.
UPDATE re Morocco, 12th September: We are now in our last few days in Spain, heading to Morocco on Friday. We have of course been following the terrible news following the tragic earthquake last week, but as our itinerary doesn’t take us close to the devastated area, we are pressing ahead with our plans to go. We feel in a way that our very modest contribution to the Moroccan economy is the least we can do.
28 Comments
Parks and Planes
We can just feel the intensely rich history from this post. What a magical yet mysterious place!
Lynette d'Arty-Cross
A very interesting and engaging post. Cheers.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Lynette
Helen Devries
That was a fascinating account.
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Terrie Chrones
We are so enthralled with your writing which gets better and better. I love the remnants of Moorish culture. As we will be in N Spain soon and not the south, your descriptions are exciting to consider we will experience more Spanish culture. As for Morocco, wise and thoughtful decision.
Xxoo
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much, Terrie. Spain is a diverse country with changing characteristics as you move from region to region. Enjoy your time in the north of the country and make sure you properly indulge in pintxo culture!
leightontravels
Ah this piece brought back some memories, it was like retracting my footsteps. I remember chilling out in a tiny tapas bar somewhere in Sacromonte enjoying a beer and some salami and olives for 1 euro. I also enjoyed a sandwich on those cathedral steps in the afternoon sunshine. Appreciated the history and background info, most of which I’d long forgotten. The cave houses are absolutely majestic.
Phil & Michaela
Free tapas with your beer is a bit of a thing here, and the beer’s cheap anyway. I’m not complaining however!
Andrew Petcher
We went to visit cave houses in Guadix near Granada, a bit touristy but still fascinating,
Phil & Michaela
I definitely wouldn’t call Sacromonte touristy…it was all very quiet!
Toonsarah
Granada really does sound very appealing. I’ve always assumed it’s ‘just’ about the Alhambra but clearly there’s much more to it. I like the sound of the mix of cultures, and Sacromonte sounds fascinating!
Re Morocco, I read this piece today and thought it might be of interest (if you don’t already subscribe to Wanderlust which I guess you might?) It certainly supports your decision to go ahead with your own visit: https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/content/morocco-earthquake-how-to-help
Phil & Michaela
Sarah, thank you so much for sending this link. It seriously vindicates our decision, we just felt that the last thing Morocco would need right now is for tourist income to die. Granada is really special, Sarah, so many things to love about it.
grandmisadventures
I love places like this that are such a mix of all the cultures that made it. I really love the look of Sacromonte and the cave houses are just amazing 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It’s a special city, Meg
WanderingCanadians
The Granada Cathedral looks stunning. It’s neat to get a sneak peak inside some of the restored cave houses in the mountainside and learn more about the history of how these came to be. The Flamenco caves also seem like an interesting experience! Glad to hear that you weren’t impacted by the earthquake in Morocco. Stay safe. Linda
Monkey's Tale
What an intriguing sounding city. It sounds as if it has quite a unique personality, blending in all of its parts, but yet keeping them all distinct. We just visited a cave city in Turkey where the residents were forced to leave in the 1950s. I thought that was late for cavemen, but 2023! Wow. Stay safe in Morocco. Maggie
wetanddustyroads
It was very interesting to read how the cultures differ (within walking distance). And the cave houses in Sacromonte – they must have been very well built if some of these houses are still in use after all these years (even after the flood). Granada is definitely a place packed with history.
Phil & Michaela
They’re basically just holes in the rock! Granada was both lovely and fascinating and we could easily have spent more time there.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
This is fabulous. What great insight. Love the Flamenco cave!
Phil & Michaela
An absolutely absorbing city with such interesting history.
Marie
You’ve certainly done justice to the place – far more to it than Alhambra. Very interesting – thank you.
Phil & Michaela
We loved it, Marie. A fascinating city where there was more than enough to tempt us to stay longer. Or indeed return.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I love how you two loved Grenada and were able to appreciate all of its unique cultures. I’m frankly amazed that they get along so well. Beautifully written and photographed as always. I always look forward to your posts. Safe travels.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much Kellye, that’s a nice thing to say 😊
Alison
Fascinating look at Grenada, so interesting with all the details about the caves. A side I’ve never heard of. (Late reply I know 😬)
Phil & Michaela
Such a lovely city
Lookoom
It was interesting to see Granada again through your eyes, like many I skipped the city to concentrate on the Alhambra and Sacromonte.