Southbound Again: Wine Into Water
It’s getting pretty hot now. The dashboard temperature gauge blinks up to 37 on the drive back across country and we are hearing whispers of a Mediterranean heatwave which could at the very least break the 40 barrier in the coming week, so the vaulted ceilings and tall windows of our next apartment are a welcome sight. This place must have been a truly grand townhouse in its day. Built in 1735 and not converted to apartments until 1980, it’s our guess that the original owners, a family named Roques-Guilhem, had the 18th century equivalent of big bank accounts.
The airy living room is a blessing: since leaving Paris two weeks ago we’ve not had the benefit of air conditioning in any of our abodes and have had only portable fans and dehumidifiers on wheels to keep us cool. Noisy fans and sweaty rooms don’t equate to peaceful sleep, so the new place feels good even though it’s another one on “AC-free” list.
Here we are back in Carcassonne, returned from our sortie deep into wine territory and back on to our intended southbound trajectory, one full day back here before the journey continues. En route back to Carcassonne we take a small detour to the magnificent Pont du Gard, and what an incredible sight it is. What remains of Pont du Gard today is impressive enough, but the engineering marvel that it once was just sets the mind racing.
At 160ft above the river, this is the highest ancient bridge in the world, and by some distance the highest aqueduct the Romans are known to have ever built. What a feat its construction was: carrying nearly 9 million gallons of water every single day along its 31-mile length to bring much needed water supplies from the springs near Uzès to the dry city of Nemausus (now Nimes). The two towns are only 12 miles apart as the crow flies, but with a straight line waterway an impossibility due to the mountainous terrain of the Massif Central, the Romans were forced to devise the much longer curving route.
The drop in altitude from start to finish is only 56 feet, meaning that the gradient of this aqueduct was more gentle than virtually any other, which in turn meant that a large continuous flow of water was essential for the whole incredible concept to work. A structure like this with today’s resources would be an amazing achievement – for such a feat to be completed 2,000 years ago is just mind blowing. Today the triple tiered construction stands over the valley with a mighty presence, looking over a pleasant stretch of river where locals and visitors alike bathe in its shadows in the cooling waters of the River Gardon. The unforgettable moment though is when you first enter the valley and set eyes on this monument to human endeavour: it’s a truly emotive sight.
Back in Carcassonne and sipping the first Pelforth beer of our return, Vincent the Facilitator is soon in touch. He’s not been able to secure any concert tickets on our behalf, in fact he tells us they are mostly “nominative”, and we know what that means, so it seems that the great Joe Bonamassa will have to do his thing tonight without the honour of our presence up in the castle. So near yet so far. Then, just a couple of hours before start time, I get an email from a website where I’d left another line of enquiry: one single seat has become available at the princely sum of £253. We demur.
So for our final afternoon in Carcassonne we take a boat trip on Canal du Midi, which turns out to be more than the simple boat ride we thought: we hadn’t realised that the modest looking canal passing through the town locks was part of quite such an important and historic waterway.
The canal forms one section of a route created over 15 years from 1666 to 1681, the brainchild and ambition of many an Emperor and leader way before its completion during the reign of Louis XIV. By building canals linking with the Garonne, the major achievement of this waterway was to form a passage between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, so saving the hugely lengthy trip around the Iberian peninsula and through the Straits of Gibraltar.
Its 150-mile course is still navigable today, though only of course to launches rather smaller than the merchant ships which once made their way through. A journey through its full length wouldn’t be an easy or quick trip though, with 63 locks to negotiate along the way. As is so often the case with mammoth engineering projects such this, its designer and chief engineer, Pierre-Paul Riquet, didn’t live to see his dream fulfilled and died just eight months before the canal was opened to traffic.
On our last night in Carcassonne, the Gadget Curse strikes again, and my iPhone resolutely refuses to take a charge, rendering it useless. Just over two weeks in and we are now minus one camera and down to a single phone. Aren’t these things meant to come in threes?
But it’s time to move on again. Carcassonne’s breakfast cafes are only just opening up as we trudge through town to the train station, the delicious scent of freshly baked croissants drifting across the square. The first train, to Perpignan, takes us past vast lakes where flocks of pink flamingos feed at the water’s edge, and along the shores of what this morning is a surprisingly grey looking Mediterranean. After Perpignan we leave the coast and head inland, up into wonderful mountain scenery as we enter the domain of the Pyrenees, fruit trees replacing vines and castles and monasteries looking down from the towering mountains. Yet again we are spellbound by the beauty around us.
The little station at the end of our journey carries the name of both of two nearby villages, but turns out to be in neither of them, and is instead amongst the pines and hemmed in by mountains. Sitting in the sun outside the deserted rural station, we might be in the midst of stunning scenery but what we are not, of course, is in the heart of civilisation. Our next bed is some 6 kilometres away through the valleys; there’s no bus stop, there’s no taxis. The ticket office man just shrugs his shoulders when we ask (note: we were to discover later that the bus stop is only 10 minutes walk away – he could definitely have been more helpful!). There are, though, some phone numbers for taxis on a poster on the wall.
“Ce n’est pas possible”, says the first, when we call.
“Non”, says the second, rather more gruff than is necessary.
“Ce n’est pas possible”, says another.
The fourth is a dead line. This could take a while……
40 Comments
Rochelle | Adventuresfromelle
The heat of this summer is ridiculous! Oh boy. Safe travels, and I hope a cool refreshing breeze blows your way 🙂
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Your photos of the Pont du Gard are just exceptional. I cannot imagine seeing it in person knowing its age and that it is such an engineering marvel. The canal excursion looks quite fun, and the grand apartment looks like a lovely place to stay. I’m sorry you couldn’t get tickets to see Bonamassa. I hope by the time this reaches you that you have made your way to the next stop without too much trouble.
Phil & Michaela
Amazing places, Kellye!
Alison
Just more stunning photos and interesting info. Really enjoying your trip Phil and Michaela and going to work hard on hubby so we may do the same next year. The aqueduct was spectacular, if that’s what it’s called. Hoping it’s cooler in the mountains. France really does have everything.
Phil & Michaela
It does indeed
Monkey's Tale
The aqueduct and canal are so impressive. Think of the engineering and work that went into those and so many centuries ago. They both look to be in great shape too! Wondering if you’re still on the side of the road… Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Those Romans were pretty clever 😊
MrsWayfarer
We missed a tide through Canal du Midi the last time we were there. It’s indeed innovative
wetanddustyroads
What a lovely apartment – almost as beautiful as the Pont du Gard. The canal trip sounds like a great way to see more of this beautiful area. Oh well, I’ll just sit and admire the river at the Pyrenees while waiting for transport …
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha we had no choice, at least for a while. Mountain villages are just wonderful, aren’t they.
ourcrossings
Wow, what a fantastic place to explore and photograph, not to mention your beautiful townhouse apartment. As the temperatures just doesn’t want to go above +16′ C in Ireland, feel free to send some of that warmth our way. Thanks for sharing and have a wonderful day 🙂 Aiva xx
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Aiva…here’s the best I can do….☀️🥵😂
Toonsarah
That apartment looks pretty impressive but the Pont du Gard definitely steals the show in this post – wow! That heat would definitely be too much for me (even the normal temperatures around the Med are a bit daunting), I’m hoping to read you find slightly cooler weather in the mountains – if you ever get there!
Phil & Michaela
Hi Sarah, it’s still hot during the day but the nights are so much cooler with lovely clean mountain air. Pont du Gard is an amazing sight.
leightontravels
As I write this comment, I hope that you aren’t still stranded at the station waiting for a willing taxi driver. Ah, those Romans, they left us so many architectural marvels. (What did the Romans ever do for us?, wink wink). Canal du Midi looks calming and a perfect place to be in these hot days. The apartment is fantastic!
Phil & Michaela
We made it in the end! Nudge, nudge, know what I mean…
Helen Devries
You’re at Villefranche – Vernet les Bains by the look of the station.
Phil & Michaela
Good spot Helen…so you can guess what’s coming next!
Helen Devries
Oh yes!
HeyJude
That’s one impressive bridge! And the apartment isn’t too shabby either. Several years ago I was trying to persuade the OH that we should move to the Languedoc-Roussillon Midi-Pyrénées region. It looks wonderful. Sadly we didn’t. Such is life.
Phil & Michaela
I’ve been saying for at least the last week or so that I can absolutely understand the attraction of emigrating to these parts. It’s fabulous, really…although it’s possible to imagine ending up somewhere a bit too remote. Some of the smaller villages are pretty isolated…which might be difficult when the snows come!
Andrew Petcher
Thanks for the memory nudge. Great post.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers bud
Born to Travel
Enjoyed reading your post and looking at your photos, especially of the Pont du Gard. Pleased to read you went to the third part of Carcassonne, the port. In 2015 we hired a boat and travelled along the Canal du Midi for a week. Carcassonne was one highlight among many. Returning to France to do another boat trip this September with the same two other couples, but near Strasbourg. Hope you managed to secure transport. No doubt your next post will reveal all. Cheers, Mark
Phil & Michaela
Well, I am very sure you will have a fabulous time on your next trip. What a wonderful area this has been to explore. Seriously, we have loved every place without exception.
Lookoom
I don’t know if it’s still possible to cross by the upper part of the bridge. It was possible when I visited it years ago and I remember the vertiginous crossing. At first everything’s fine, but if you have to pass a group and get closer to the edge…
Phil & Michaela
Wow! No, you can’t do that these days….and blimey that must have been scary. It’s a fabulous place to see, though, truly amazing.
WanderingCanadians
It’s pretty impressive how Pont du Gard was constructed before modern day technologies and that it’s still standing today. The boat ride through the canal sounds like a fun afternoon activity and great way to add another history lesson in. Sorry to hear that you suffered yet another technology loss. There’s a lot of pressure riding on the single iPhone now!
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
Ha, I remember being stuck in the middle of nowhere while traveling by train in Germany. Had it not been for the kindness of strangers, we would still be sitting (and arguing) on the platform. I admire your sense of adventure, but could never stay in a place (during summer) without AC!
Your photos of the bridge are amazing – cellphone?? It’s those unexpected moments, like your canal ride, that make it all worthwhile.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, all on the iPhone until we find a replacement camera. As for the AC, we have had to take regular doses of that well known sleep inducing concoction known as “bierre pression + vin rouge”. It’s the only way…
Suzanne@PictureRetirement
beer and wine! works for me.
grandmisadventures
I am always amazed at the engineering feats that were accomplished so long ago before the technology and machinery that we have now. Absolutely incredible!
Annie Berger
Your French adventure remind me I know appallingly little of the country apart from a summer spent as an au pair in Le Petit Touquet in the 70s and a few days in the south a few years ago with Steven. You’ve shown me a whole new world to explore but not in the summer heat, thanks! The Pont du Gard was an amazing feat of engineering then and now. Loving Michaela’s photos.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Annie. Yep, we’re OK with the heat so it’s not a barrier for us, and yes it’s been beautiful pretty much everywhere so far. Lovin’ it!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Gorgeous. Love that apartment. Sent you a message on IG. Cheers!
mukulmanku
Nicely written, Phil & Michaela
Phil & Michaela
Thank you 🙏
mukulmanku
Beautifully written, your post paints a vivid picture of the place you both travelled through. I think there’s one fine wine bar restaurant at Pont du Gard, I read about it once. Incidentally similar route was also taken by Thomas Jefferson on his wine journey through France, he even sailed in the canal du midi. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you so much for your kind comments, very much appreciated. I am so glad the words were clear in spite of the consumption of copious quantities of wine.
mukulmanku
I have written many of my blog posts immediately after 5 course wine dinners and I can relate to the feeling 😀🥂