Southwards To The Lavender Fields: From Paris To Provence
If one of our hopes for this adventure was to find quaint provincial towns with ancient and historic centres, then as we carry our backpacks from the bus station through the winding narrow streets to our apartment on the third floor of an ageing town house, we are overflowing with the feeling that we’ve hit the jackpot straight away. Welcome to Aix-en-Provence, where the squares are oozing splendour in the hot afternoon sun while the ancient plane trees which line its boulevards offer shade to anyone with a bit of time to spare.
The bells from the clock tower resonate down the tight streets as we find our way to our next “home”, swifts and swallows swoop and screech between the lofty houses, waiters wipe down tables in readiness for the evening custom. “This is perfect”, we say to each other more than once as this gorgeous town welcomes us through its characterful alley ways and leafy boulevards. This place feels special.
And as we take our first wander a short while later, those first impressions are seriously enhanced. Buildings with histories lean forwards to guard the tight streets, leafy squares are alive with early evening chatter, the stories of centuries whisper from tightly shut doorways. Footsteps echo on cobblestones, the scent of roasting garlic drifts down the streets and now and again the sound of laughter drifts around the corners.
Before we had even arrived here, the pretty Provence countryside had been rolling past the train window for quite some time before we reached Aix, fields of sunflowers shining bright yellow alongside the various purples of the lavender rows, while farmers on combine harvesters cut down golden corn in the vast open fields. An occasional wide river cut between the fields, quaint villages cried out to be investigated, farmhouses nestled in the rolling hills, until eventually the train began to slow down on its approach. We were so ready to explore even before we saw the town.
TGV stations tend to be outside of town, away from the main centre and the local station, and here in Aix it’s a bus ride into town once we are off the train. After making the one scheduled stop between the TGV station and the town, the bus driver forgets to close the luggage door, and as the bus gains speed a female passenger calls out in panic as about a dozen suitcases crash out and spill across the roadway. Like everyone else, we rush out to survey the damage but thankfully our backpacks are still nestled safely inside, unlike the ejected bags strewn in a haphazard line along the tarmac. Well, there’s something we haven’t seen before!
The gorgeous town of Aix-en-Provence is not only instantly lovely but has a cultural heritage and history which is both long and deep. This is the lifetime home of Paul Cézanne who was born, died, and created works of art in houses among these winding streets, home also for a while to Émile Zola, and the chosen base for sculptors, poets and writers, many of whom came here to study in the famed universities and found themselves inspired by the local beauty.
Cézanne too studied at the university here in his hometown, at first in Law, a subject from which he withdrew a year before potential qualification, and then in the Arts. Unlike many impoverished artists throughout history, Cézanne managed to achieve a certain level of recognition and income from his work during his lifetime, though he never acquired the wealth and prestige of his close friend Zola. The enormous values and adoring recognition of Cézanne’s work were to come, unfortunately for him, long after his death due to pleurisy.
The universities endure to this day and every evening the ochre coloured squares fill with students, giving the town a youthful yet studious feel. There’s a lovely buzz but it’s never rowdy, in fact we get the distinct feeling that these thronging bars are filled more with intellectual conversation than they ever are with revelry.
But somewhere out there beyond the confines of the lovely town of Aix lies the renowned Provence landscape, inspiration to countless artists and a favourite destination of so many travellers. It’s time to find out for ourselves if that reputation is justified…..
…. There is not a breath of wind. The sun beats down from a cloudless sky and caresses our faces with its dry, loving heat, the only sound is the constant, incessant humming of bees – bees which are so intent on their proper job that they’re never going to trouble intruders like us, they have far too much to do. The lavender scent fills the air, baked even more potent by the insistent sun. It’s a heady, intoxicating odour.
We are so lucky to be here at this time of year. Gabrielle our guide tells us that these fabulous lavender blooms appeared only a few days ago, and then will be harvested within a fortnight at most. This is a short time span; there is only a very limited part of the year where this part of Provence has such a vivid look. We are seeing the lavender fields of Provence just as Cézanne did: lines of deep, deep purple against the verdant green of the rolling hills. It’s beautiful.
As the lavender dispels its beautiful colours and scents and the sunflowers shine their impeccable yellow, the almond trees have long shed their pretty blossoms and started the business of creating nuts while the olive trees and vines work towards their respective seasons of produce. Around them all, the rolling hills creep upwards as they become foothills to the Alps, rivers crash through gorges, rocky outcrops survey the agricultural landscapes from above. It’s all stunningly lovely.
We take a break at Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, an excruciatingly quaint village which is in every way the epitome of a perfect mountain setting, the stream drawing a straight line between the two halves of the village as it cascades down its rocky path, ochre buildings huddled together in their confined space, traders selling honey…jams…olives. Tourism has obviously arrived, but nevertheless this little village looks just as it must have done a very long time ago.
From here we head to the Verdon Gorge, the “Grand Canyon” of France, and then further on to Lac de Sainte-Croix, a lake which is as sumptuously blue as the Mediterranean itself, nestling beautifully between its towering sides. Provence is such splendid country, with so many delights: beautiful scenery, rolling hills, sumptuous villages, ancient towns bursting with history.
As we meander down to the shores of this amazingly blue lake, it’s a toss-up between being in the water or on it; after some deliberation we opt for “on” and spend a delightful hour negotiating its rippling blue waters on a pedalo, of all things. It’s actually lovely, admiring this wonderful scenery as our little craft bobs along the waters.
This incredibly blue lake is as beautiful as any of its better known Italian counterparts, the gorge is deep and spectacular, the waters as inviting as the ocean. There is a truly unique beauty about the countryside of Provence, enchanting and endearing and endlessly changing. We can only wonder how magical it would be to spend a whole year here and watch the changing seasons pass through.
There are already two different elements to this region which have completely won our hearts and ensured this lengthy trip is off to the best of starts: Aix the town for one, and Provence the region for the other, both so wonderfully charming and so indisputably beautiful that we are already fearful of leaving too soon.
But then again, we aren’t finished just yet…
37 Comments
Gilda Baxter
Brian and I are yet to visit this region of France. Likely that we will tour with our motorhome in the near future. It all looks so beautiful and charming. What are the temperatures like at the moment?
Loving all your photos, particularly the one with Michaela among the fields of sunflowers. Gorgeous ❤️
Phil & Michaela
Hi Gilda, well it’s hot….mid to upper 30s and occasionally touching 40….but after weeks of the humidity of Asia it just feels lovely. But oh Gilda, Provence is absolutely beautiful. Can recommend it!
Lookoom
Aix en Provence is such a beautiful city, as you’ve noted not only for the quality of its architecture but also for the street life accompanied by the many fountains. Despite the TGV, it’s a bit far from Paris for a weekend, but it’s a place I also plan to visit in France.
Phil & Michaela
It’s really lovely here, my friend, so welcoming. More about the fountains to come in next post…
Alison
Looks absolutely glorious, I can imagine you both sipping wine and eating cheese and exclaiming over the fantastic views. Hopefully you are staying a few days.
Phil & Michaela
It’s so lovely, Ali. This is a trip of freedom with minimal forward planning so we’ve been able to be flexible. I can’t believe you associate us with drinking wine…whatever would give you that impression!?
Brian Tucker
I had asneky feeling you would love it!
If you make it to St Tropex get there on the ferry from St Maxime,the best way to go
Great phots enjoy your trip
Brian
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Brian
HeyJude
A year in Provence. Sounds like a good title for a book… 😅 I must admit it does look amazing and those French markets with that wonderful produce must make you want to stay for a long time.
Phil & Michaela
Ooooh yes but maybe I’ll do a book called Angels & Demons first? It’s so lovely here, Jude, so much better even than we anticipated.
WanderingCanadians
The rows of lavender and sunflower fields are so pretty. Lavender is one of my favourite flowers. It smells great, attracts the bees, and helps keep those pesky mosquitoes away. Sounds like you lucked out with the timing. Great shot of Michaela standing in the sunflowers. The Verdon Gorge looks stunning and the colour of the water is gorgeous.
Phil & Michaela
I nearly lost Michaela, the sunflowers are as tall as her! Such a lovely, lovely area here…we are very impressed!
MrsWayfarer
I was inspired by your post and marked Aix-en-Provence in my Want to Go list in Google maps.
Phil & Michaela
We can definitely recommend it!
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Beautifully written and photographed, you two! Wow, wow, wow! I can see why you’re already dreading leaving. I am champing at the bit to visit this incredibly beautiful part of France. Can’t wait for your next post.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Kellye. It is lovely here, far better than even we expected
Toonsarah
We’re so in love with Paris that we hardly ever explore further afield in France but this post is a perfect illustration of what we’re missing! Aix en Provence looks delightful and the countryside stunning! Have you hired a car to get around?
Phil & Michaela
Not yet, Sarah. We’ve done bus and a Provence tour (organised tour on minibus) but because this is a really flexible trip we’ve been busy making new plans….watch this space! 😀😂
Laura
Wow. This post has me positively aching for a trip to France. I have never visited the Provence region and would use your term of ‘excruciatingly quaint’ to describe so many of the places featured in this post! I truly cannot believe the level of beauty and charm of this area and you have conveyed it so wonderfully. I am so excited to read more!💖
Phil & Michaela
Laura it’s so lovely here. We are here for a little while longer yet but so far we would absolutely recommend Provence…and we haven’t even hit the coast!
notesoflifeuk
I was so glad to read that your backpacks were OK! Such stunning scenery all round, especially the lavender fields, sunflowers and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you…it’s very lovely here…
Born to Travel
Beautiful fields and villages. If you can visit Gordes, Les Baux-de-Provence, Saignon and Roussillon. All fabulous little hilltop villages. Enjoy. Cheers, Mark
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Mark….we’re not leaving the area just yet so we will see if we can get to some of those 😊
grandmisadventures
When a picture has a smell. I could almost smell the lavender as I read your post. Fields of lavender and tall sunflowers in charming towns-sign me up anytime. 🙂 This is somewhere that would bring out the artist in anyone because it is just so lovely.
Phil & Michaela
Absolutely right, it’s a beautiful and inspiring region. Loving it!
wetanddustyroads
It certainly looks the way you describe it 🙂. The sea of lavender is beautiful – I can almost smell it (well, there is one lavender bush in our garden, so I can walk out and smell it while reading your post)! Your photos of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie are incredibly beautiful … hmm, this is definitely a good, no great start to your tour!
Phil & Michaela
Indeed it is, Corna…it is so so lovely here
Howard Koor
As always, lovely writing and nice pictures.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Howard
leightontravels
I always enjoy France posts as I have seen so little of the country and Sladja has never been. Aix looks incredibly charming, no wonder you deemed it the ‘perfect’ base. There’s a real rustic charm to it that leaps off the page, love that vegetable market shot. As for the lavender farms, any adjective I might throw out will surely sound hackneyed. Wonderful captures of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, the Verdon Gorge (that water…) and Lac de Sainte-Croix. But I think top prize goes to Michaela’s head popping out of the sunflowers.
Phil & Michaela
Yeah I wasn’t completely sure that I’d find her again afterwards! Can definitely recommend Provence on the evidence of our first few days here, so beautiful and so much history.
Annie Berger
Wow – I had always heard how beautiful Provence is but I’ve never actually seen photos of the area before your post. The fields of lavender and sunflowers are unbelievably stunning. How lucky you are to discover such a stunning area of France. Thanks for sharing the beauty of southern France.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie, it certainly is lovely
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Thank you so much. Saving this!
Travels Through My Lens
I’m in Saint-Remy-de-Provence as I read this and your beautifully written post describes Provence perfectly. Absolutely lovely!
Phil & Michaela
Wow thank you so much, that’s a lovely thing to hear 😍