Hanoi Revisited: Early Days In Vietnam
It’s funny how things even up in the end. After the tortuous India-Nepal border crossing, entering Vietnam is a dream. Our 4-and-a-bit hour flight from Delhi leaves before midnight and lands 5am local time, and at Hanoi we hit an empty airport, a passport check that takes thirty seconds, and a computer system which knows we already have our visas sorted. A matter of minutes later, we’ve bought and activated a Viettel SIM card, grabbed 3 million dong from the ATM (no really) and are on our way into the city.
“Massage massage” call various tiny ladies on even tinier plastic stools outside each of the parlours in the tight streets by our Hanoi base. “Massage Sir very good price”, “massage Ma’am very good price”. As it happens I have a troublesome shoulder which is threatening to involve my neck in the circle of pain so I may well select which of those ladies is best equipped for the job later.
Whenever we visit a former prison or POW camp or similar – and don’t forget we’ve visited Auschwitz, the Death Railway at Kanchanburi and a former KGB prison amongst others – we are always left with two dominant thoughts: on the one hand, the astonishing brutality with which the human race is capable of treating his fellow man, and on the other, the amazing resilience and survival instinct shown by those trapped in the most appalling form of captivity.
Hoa Lo brings out those emotions. Dubbed the “Hanoi Hilton” by captured American airmen during the Vietnam war, Hoa Lo is now a museum and exhibition dedicated to its own history. Prior to French occupation in 1887, the land now occupied by Hoa Lo housed the village of Phu Khanh, renowned for skilled production of pots and pans. The entire village and its trades were obliterated by the French in order to build a detention centre for Communist and other political dissidents.
Throughout the period of French occupation the brutality endured with incarcerated activists forced to suffer the ultimate depths of depravity and dehumanisation. Shackled in cages for weeks on end, deprived of food and water, beaten daily, left naked for several days outside under a blazing sun, even amputation of limbs for identified ringleaders. Female prisoners weren’t spared the brutality either, with up to 300 women crammed into 4 small cells with a cup of water each per day for washing and one single bucket in each cell for toilet purposes.
Later, when the Americans came in, Hao Lo housed first Vietnamese POWs and then the Americans themselves as the balance of power shifted in Hanoi. The museum tells, by contrast to its other stories, of the humane treatment of Americans, and shows photographs of hearty meals and Christmas parties: whether this is truth or propaganda is a matter for conjecture, but it’s fair to say that such museums rarely contain admissions of brutality by the host nation…do they.
Central to Hanoi is Hoan Kiem Lake, a haven of calm in the middle of the city on the cusp of the verve of the old town district. Its calm waters wallow beneath overhanging trees as joggers negotiate its perimeter and people of all ages utilise its slightly clearer air in which to take various forms of exercise. The lake is a magnet: no matter where you wander in the city, you will at some point gravitate to its edge and soak up its peace.
Its quaint bridge leading to its humble but well adorned temple, The Huc Bridge and Ngoc Son Temple respectively, add a deep red colour under the colourless skies which seem to be an ongoing feature of Hanoi, a light grey cloak which doesn’t turn blue even when the sun breaks through. Hoan Kiem, like many lakes worldwide, is home to its own legend, which boasts such unlikely characters as a Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui), a Dragon King (Long Vuong), a courageous emperor and a sword with magical powers. Based on truth, clearly.
Enclaves of tranquility lie elsewhere in the city too, none more peaceful than a small garden across the road from the Temple Of Literature where timber houses rebuilt in the original Hanoi style circle the smaller lake, a great little corner in which to sip the delicious milk from a king coconut. The Temple itself, Van Mieu, a seat of learning dedicated to Confucius, became Vietnam’s first national university and at one time housed a school attended exclusively by the children of nobility. Although several restoration projects have been completed over the years, it is nevertheless remarkable that this place has survived the wars and disasters of the centuries.
Across the city and on the other side of the famed railway line is the bloated complex which is the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh, so loved by his country that he is still referred to as Uncle Ho. Aside from presiding over post-WWII Vietnam for 24 years, Uncle Ho wrote books and poems in three languages and has an early history which leaves researchers and historians in confused disagreement: he is rumoured to have used up to 200 false names and created numerous different personal histories. He is also believed to have lived in West Ealing (London) for around six years and worked on the Newhaven to Dieppe ferry as a chef – all this coming before running his country, obviously.
Minh didn’t live to see the final unification of Vietnam in 1975 but his roles in fighting for independence and political ideology are clearly remembered with affection and reverence.
We file with hundreds of others through the strictly controlled mausoleum and past his embalmed and encased body as dozens of schools give their kids a day out to come see the nation’s father – or uncle – despite the fact that Ho Chi Minh himself had specifically requested to be cremated and moreover that no mausoleum should be built in his honour. Strange that such a revered and powerful individual should have his final request denied.
(Note: the frivolous part of my brain keeps wondering if his colleagues used to come into the office each day and say “Hi Ho”. I know I would have done).
Hanoi’s Bia Hoi ritual takes place daily – Bia Hoi is a beer which doesn’t have a shelf life. It’s brewed overnight, rushed out to the bars by lunchtime, and drunk in large quantities by locals and visitors alike, through afternoon and evening, until it’s all gone – after which the brewery night shift resumes and the whole 24-hour cycle starts again. The entire pageant is a pretty unique ritual made even more amusing by the hundreds of tiny plastic chairs which are thrown out in to the streets to give the imbibers somewhere to perch while downing the golden liquid.
Hanoi’s old town comes alive at night like a sanitised version of Bangkok. Little wonder that Hanoi is on the backpacker trail: beer rituals, plentiful bars, tons of accommodation, street food and bouncing night life, all at a fraction of the cost most visitors would pay at home. On one level it sounds an unauthentic nightmare; in reality it’s good humoured, unabashed fun where the split of locals and visitors is roughly 50/50 and people from around the world mix and relax.
In normal circumstances, daytime Hanoi would have the feel of a busy city, but coming immediately after Delhi even the old town feels almost serene. It is so different here: in an Indian city, one is engulfed and swallowed up by Indian culture meaning that the feeling of being in a tiny minority is inescapable. It’s easy to feel like an intruder. Here in Hanoi though, visitors from around the globe are evident everywhere: travellers and backpackers of all ages enjoying the many eateries and coffee bars which give Hanoi an infinitely more accessible character.
Reconciling modern day Hanoi with its dark and troubled history, dovetailing its one party politics with its open attitudes, explaining the proximity of night life to a museum like Hoa Lo, are diverse stories too complex to explain after just a few days. It would, we think, take a longer stay to get some perspective on those anomalies.
For us, the ghosts of our “COVID visit” have been laid quickly and our bad memories are now forever supplanted by good ones. Oh and we had a massage too. Very good price.
30 Comments
mochatruffalo
Brings back memories. This was one of the very last places we’d visited before the pandemic closures, feels like eons ago.
Phil & Michaela
We were here too, you may remember….it’s good to be here and laying the ghosts of that strange visit
Alison
Glad to hear you are back on the road to civilisation, well almost. We really enjoyed Hanoi but didn’t get to visit the prison. As you say the depths of dehumanisation are horrendous. It makes you appreciate life so much more. I have to say I was surprised by Hanoi it was never a place I wanted to visit, in the end I preferred it to Saigon.
I’m back in the UK, helping my mum get settled after my dad recently passed away. Have not had the time or inclination to blog, just having a quick look at my favourite blogs.
Phil & Michaela
Oh Ali we’re so sorry to hear your Dad’s passed away. Hope everyone is going as well as it can do in the circumstances. And I love the fact we’re one of your favourites. Best wishes chuck ❤️
Alison
Thanks so much Phil and Michaela 😊
Toonsarah
Ah, great memories of some places I loved in Hanoi, like the Temple of Literature, and interesting account of others we missed, like Hoa Lo, which despite the appalling history it recounts I would have liked to have seen. In fact, you’re reminding me that I’d like to get back to Hanoi for a longer look. I’m glad you got your massage and are enjoying life on Hanoi’s streets 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It’s getting better too….back here now after being in Halong Bay for a bit, and we’re finding ourselves falling just a little bit in love with Hanoi! We thought of you when we read about Ho Chi Minh’s Ealing connection…
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Vietnam has long been near the top of my “places to visit” list. Now, after reading your post, the fire has been stoked even higher. I’m glad you got to go back after the Covid disaster, and I look forward to reading more of you trip.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Kellye. It’s definitely a case of so far, so good….Hanoi gets better and better and this is starting to feel like it’s going to be a great trip!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Ahhh, really good price! 😃
Laura
I’m so happy to know you are enjoying Hanoi and replacing your former memories with new, refreshed ones. The city sounds like a perfect balance of peaceful and engaging after your group travel experience. Looking forward to reading more 😊
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Laura, yep, Hanoi is good this time around
Lookoom
I am glad to see that foreign visitors are coming to Hanoi in large numbers, which should push the country in the right direction, as already shown by the efficiency at the airport.
Phil & Michaela
There’s a very enjoyable atmosphere here just now
Monkey's Tale
For you, best price. Hanoi looks like it’s returned to its old self, or close to it.
Phil & Michaela
I think it has!
Tan Bollesty
A really enjoyable read. Good memories of Hanoi, a great walking city, once you learn to cross the road of course. Enjoying your site as always.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – ah, crossing the road is all part of the fun! Thank you for your kind comments.
wetanddustyroads
Ah, smooth ‘sailing’ in Vietnam – that’s more how I like it! I’m not good at visiting prisons … give me the lake with the beautiful bridge and temple instead. And yes, looking at your photos, I’d much rather brave Hanoi’s nightlife than a moment in Delhi! Glad you got the massage – and even if it was cheap, you should actually send the bill to the dawdlers of your recent train journey, because they might be the reason for your (shoulder) pain 😉.
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha you could be right 😂…. Hanoi has been really good this time around
leightontravels
Absolutely fantastic stuff, Phil. This piece reads like my own Hanoi Greatest Hits. I just love Hanoi and was glad to hear that you made it through smoothly. Meanwhile in India/Nepal…. The food, meanwhile, aaaargh I miss it so. Also glad that, like me, you managed to seek out all those delightful “enclaves of tranquility” away from the hustle and bustle.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Leighton, more to cone too as we returned to Hanoi briefly after “doing” Halong Bay. It’s fair to say that we’ve fallen for Hanoi this time and were just a little bit sad to move on this morning.
WanderingCanadians
Glad to hear that you’re off to a good start on your early days in Vietnam. It sounds like Hanoi really comes alive at night. Did you try the Bia Hoi?
Phil & Michaela
Did I try the Bia Hoi? Is the Pope Catholic? 😄😄😄…. yep, it’s very light and golden and tastes as if it’s a pretty weak beer. I don’t know what strength it really is but it is quite thin and watery – tastes alright though. Hanoi night life is so good…it’s a great city.
grandmisadventures
such a drastic juxtaposition between the stark, brutal, and depressing museum and the intricate, delicate, and beautiful architecture of the temple. I guess everywhere has something in their history that really shows the worst of humanity but at the same time the incredible resilience of the people. We have a couple guests at work the last few days from Hanoi, so the timing of chatting with them the last few days and reading your post about the city is fantastic 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Well that’s a coincidence! I can only hope that we did justice to their home city and told it as it is!
MrsWayfarer
Reminds me of our trip here back in 2019. I fell in love with Vietnam during that trip.
Phil & Michaela
As we have on this one. It’s a wonderful country….
Annie Berger
You superbly wrote and photographed the disparity between the past’s darker days and the beauty of the present and hope for the future.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie, we so enjoyed Hanoi this time