From St Moritz To Zermatt On The Glacier Express
The White Turf course and its attendant marquees stand silent now, dormant until the next race meeting in a week’s time, while the rest of the town blinks its eyes as the morning sun bounces off the white snow and dazzles those emerging from their slumbers. It’s sunglasses at dawn here. It’s not just the brightness which makes the eyes water in St Moritz, it’s the prices too – make no mistake, this is one seriously expensive town. A couple of nights here would buy a three-week trip to some parts of the world.
It feels considerably colder this morning as we stride along the platform towards the waiting Glacier Express, the hum of its heating system and the twinkle of its interior lights beckoning. After the joys of the Bernina a couple of days ago we are full of anticipation as the train glides out of the station at 8:50 precisely (of course it does, it’s Switzerland) and leaves behind the hordes of skiers who are evidently willing to pay a King’s ransom for an extended break in St Moritz.
“Welcome on board the World’s slowest fast train”, says the pre-recorded message as we commence 8 hours of what must be one of the best mountain railways in the world. Through the deep white snow of the Engadine Alps, we drop below the snow line and alongside fast flowing rivers to reach the town of Chur, sheltered by the mountains which cordon off the snow but also block out the sun.
The Glacier Express is another train lover’s delight with those eight hours passing quickly as we soak up the incredible scenery and enjoy a very respectable on-board lunch. Leaving Chur and heading towards our destination of Zermatt the route is sometimes so steep that the line becomes a rack railway to assist with hauling the train up the mountains. We make Zermatt just before dusk.
Zermatt is a pretty, quintessential Alpine town filled with narrow streets and timber houses, snow nestling in its corners and the mountains visible in every direction. Rising above every other peak and directly visible from our balcony – and from most of the town – is the mighty Matterhorn, its majestic angled form instantly recognisable and strangely familiar. The town of Zermatt is completely car-free with traffic restricted to small electric trucks which buzz around town like manic milk floats.
Like St Moritz, the town clatters to the sound of ski boots and empties through the middle part of the day as everyone heads for the cable cars, skis in hand and designer labels to the fore. Unlike St Moritz, Zermatt is quaint and compact with more wood than concrete on its chalets and houses.
The four of us join those on the ski lift, feeling just a little conspicuous in our ordinary winter clothing while everyone else sports designer ski gear and carries two dirty great sticks. This cable car run is probably the longest we’ve ever experienced, taking a full 45 minutes on different gondolas to reach the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise 3,883 metres above sea level and only 600 metres or so below the summit of the neighbouring Matterhorn.
It’s almost surreal up here on the viewing platform, surrounded by these magnificent peaks with a feeling of being on the roof of the World – one of those dream like panoramas which is already etching itself into the memory at the moment we stand and stare. We don’t stand for too long, though – it’s incredibly cold up here. It was minus 17C when we set off from town this morning and it feels considerably colder than that out on the viewing platform.
As well as these astonishing views, the “Paradise” also offers tunnels through the glacier itself, an intriguing walk through passageways of smooth ice in which hues dance and tease – ice with hints of blue, ice as clear as water, ice as white as the snow. Now and again we pass an ice sculpture – beautifully carved eagles, dragons and the like, all adding to the feeling of mystery which comes with walking through the frozen heart of a glacier.
Hiking trails are as numerous as ski pistes around Zermatt, though many of them are for summer use only. On the second morning Michaela and I tackle one of the winter trails, the Rundweg Zermatt, a really enjoyable 7-kilometre hike through snowy woodland, open expanses of pure white and deep sheltered gorges. One such gorge is home to a beautiful frozen waterfall, its once gushing waters suspended in glorious sculptures until Spring. The Matterhorn, peering over rooftops, towering above the pistes or lurking behind pine forests, is ever-present throughout the hike.
For our final Zermatt excursion – indeed the final excursion before we head back to the UK – we take the remarkable steep rack railway up the mountainside to Gornergrat where the views again have that roof-of-the-World feeling of powerful beauty. The train rumbles its way up to over 3,000 metres on mind boggling gradients to the frozen wastes at the top. Gornergrat has a reputation for providing the best of the many views of the Matterhorn, and it doesn’t disappoint in that regard – they are indeed splendid.
Throughout our Alpine break, the weather has been that perfect combination of cold, fresh air and still, sunny days devoid of both wind and cloud – exactly what we had hoped for. In this perfect light, the mountains and ridges are so clearly defined against the blue sky, some almost appearing to be one dimensional so precise is their outline.
And so this latest adventure is almost over as we embark on a slightly convoluted route home with two trains to Geneva followed by Easyjet back to Gatwick. These train journeys may not be the spectacular mountain routes of the last few days but they are stimulating nonetheless. We change trains at Visp and then drop down through more vineyards than either of us knew Switzerland had until we come alongside the shores of Lac Leman aka Lake Geneva. Switzerland is, it seems, a serious wine producer, but the reason most of us don’t know this is that 98% of their wine is consumed within its own borders – and most of the exported 2% only travels as far as Germany.
Picturesque lakeside towns such as Montreux, Aigne and Vevey pass by, their balconied houses gazing into the mist over the lake, but by Lausanne the conurbations become larger and start to overlap: concrete replaces mountains as Geneva comes closer.
It’s been wonderful to breathe the fresh clear mountain air, exciting to see the breathtaking scenery , fabulous to experience these amazing train journeys. But wow the pain suffered by our bank accounts is excruciating – these Swiss ski resorts are definitely not destinations for the budget traveller. Our eyes are still watering.
30 Comments
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Expensive or not, what a trip you had! Your outstanding photos are a travel brochure in themselves. I thoroughly enjoyed tagging along with you two on your Swiss adventure.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys
normareadtalktalknet
Incredibly beautiful and interesting 🙌🥰
Monkey's Tale
I’m so jealous! We were planning on going skiing, resort and backcountry, in the alps this winter, but the lack of snow kept us home, where there is also a lack of snow in the Rockies! We should have just gone on a trip like yours. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Such beautiful scenery Maggie
leightontravels
Well, this is a post full of wonders, from a frozen waterfall and majestic views onboard the Glacier Express to passages through glaciers and the lovely wooden houses of Zermatt. The weather has certainly behaved well, providing the ideal conditions to experience this trip.
wetanddustyroads
Oh, get me on the Glacier Express! Wow, your photos are out of this world. Incredible views of the Matterhorn (and the two of you) … on top of the world indeed! Without swiping a bank card, I had an enjoyable evening with you on tour!
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha yeah keep that card in your pocket!
Heyjude
Beautiful photos. There is something so wonderful about snow covered mountains against a blue sky. I watched a recent TV program about the Glacier Express and it did look very tempting. As for Swiss prices, the most expensive salad I have ever eaten was in Geneva. A fabulous country though.
Phil & Michaela
Yes – so beautiful, so expensive!
Nemorino
Beautiful mountains and train rides.
Alison
Absolutely incredible Phil and Michaela, I don’t know where to start. The breathtaking views from the train the quaint little town of Zermatt or perhaps the ice sculptures. I did love those sculptures. I had a wonderful time with you on this trip, one of your best.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Ali
WanderingCanadians
The views from the train are stunning. It’s a great way to soak in the scenery while staying warm. It’s crazy that the cable car takes a full 45 minutes to reach the summit! Love the frozen waterfall and views of the Matterhorn.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks guys, yes those Alpine views are just stunning
Andrew Petcher
We went on a helicoil rail trip once some time ago in the Black Forest which was similar.
giacomoasinello
I really want to do that one day!
Phil & Michaela
Great experience, especially for any lovers of rail travel!
grandmisadventures
What an incredible way to see such beauty. I just love your pictures of Zermatt and the Matterhorn. And the glacier sculptures are amazing 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Meg – it was pretty good yeah!
Jyothi
Wow..wow Michaela.. loved it!! Stunning views!!
Christie
Stunning scenery from the roof of the world🙂 Every penny was well worth it LOL
Toonsarah
Switzerland is expensive everywhere so I can just imagine how eye-watering prices in those fashionable ski resorts must be! But the Glacier Express sounds and looks amazing, as do your mountain top panoramas. Some things are worth an occasional splurge 😃
Phil & Michaela
Very true….but £40 for 2 beers and 2 soups?!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Stunning scenery. This is fantastic! Our kind of adventure!
Lookoom
A beautiful mountain break, the photos are lovely despite the overwhelming white.
rkrontheroad
Stunning! What a wonderful way to visit the Alps, except for the cost, of course. The photo of morning light on the Matterhorn is breathtaking.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Ruth, yes it’s a stunning place with continually breathtaking views.
Annie Berger
You and your other readers have already used all the superlatives I would have also used to describe what you saw! Thanks for taking us such a magnificent trip without our having also to pay an arm and a leg.
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha yes Switzerland is good on the eyes but not kind to the wallet!