Northwards To The Picturesque Town Of Boquete
“No ingles, solo español”, says Jose as we climb into his slightly battered looking speedboat. It takes Jose a good eight pulls on the cable before the motor finally bursts into life rather than coughing and spluttering, and we are off across the waves towards Isla Iguana, although the occasional phut-phut noises make us wonder if we’re going to make it.
Despite the name of the island, iguanas, though they are here, are not the main reason to take an excursion to this dot of land out in the seas off Pedasi, and nor are the tens of thousands of crabs which make it look at times like the ground itself is moving, such is their number. No, the reason we want to see this island is birds: Isla Iguana is home to around 4,000 frigatebirds.
Most of the island is off limits for reasons of conservation, but a narrow trail leads through the trees to the opposite shore where a bit of clambering on the rocks buys us a vantage point from which to watch these fantastic birds both roosting and in flight. The colony comprises two types: the pigeon frigatebird and its more illustrious cousin, the aptly named magnificent frigatebird. Majestic and beautiful in flight with their elongated forked tails draping behind them, this is also the species in which the male has that remarkable bright red pouch on its throat.
During the mating process, the males puff out these red balloons in the most spectacular fashion in order to attract a female partner: these pouches are an amazing and improbable sight in terms of both colour and size. We are treated to a wonderful display and Michaela is able to capture some terrific shots. Standing on the rocks with these spectacular birds circling above us is a mesmerising and spine tingling experience and for a considerable time we just can’t tear ourselves away.
When we do, after some three hours on the island, Jose is dutifully waiting, lifejackets at the ready, the Yamaha motor coughing and spluttering like a chain smoker at breakfast. Just as we reach Pedasi, it gives one last whine, one last phutt, then falls stubbornly silent forcing four of Jose’s buddies to wade out to pull us ashore. We hand Jose his dollars and leave him to wonder how and when he’ll be able to make his next trip.
By mid morning the next day, we’ve left Jose and Pedasi well behind as we start our next journey, away from the rolling green hills, out through miles and miles of flat sugar cane plantations until eventually the bold peaks of the Chiriqui region start to appear. It’s around 3pm as we pull around the final curve and drop down into our next location, the town of Boquete.
There’s a degree of swoon about us as we take our first look around this riverside town. Boquete is a love-at-first-sight kinda place. The white water fast flowing river cuts a swathe through town, bounded by gardens and nurseries packed with brightly coloured flowers, quaint buildings clinging to the banks of the river. Above and all around are the green jungle clad mountains: gazing past the river and up at the scenery is a recipe for instant contentment.
The main street shows much evidence of tourism and expat influences – tour operators are everywhere, opportunities for adventure abound, there’s an American themed restaurant named Big Daddy’s – but none of it detracts from its instant appeal. Later, as we wander down for our first Boquete evening, it’s not cicadas or crickets which serenade us, but a tumultuous and highly amusing frog chorus which has us laughing all the way to town.
Equally constant is the sound of running water; streams cascade down the rocks from every direction making their way towards to the delightfully pretty river, gurgles and splashes and babbles filling the air. As first impressions go, Boquete has probably racked up a 10 out of 10.
If Boquete itself is lovely, then the surrounding scenery is even more perfect and picturesque, and as we make our first explorations around the area and its rolling hills we are constantly stopping to stare. Resplendent flowers bring colour to gardens and hedgerows alike, sudden rock faces paint black patches among the greenery, frothing streams bring life and sound, and all the time the green mountains tower over the whole scene.
With much to do here, some of it requiring guides and pre-booking, our first job is to get everything sorted and in the diary. Once done, our first adventure is a self-guided hike on the Lost Waterfalls Trail, a relatively short hike of about 3 hours’ duration but with a significant elevation gain and some tricky underfoot conditions.
In fact the going on the trail is not easy at any time: but it is a whole load of fun. Heavy mud, large tree roots, rocks and boulders, streams running along the trail route, all play a part – and in several places the climb is so steep that it’s necessary to haul yourself up, or down, by rope. The trail takes us to three separate waterfalls, each one worthy of the climb in its own right.
We’re not sure why the waterfalls are “lost”, but they certainly are spectacular, crashing on to the smooth dark rocks with a constant roar, the white foam clashing beautifully with the volcanic black. Standing in the roar, feeling the cool of the spray on our faces, watching the cascading spectacle, is ample reward for the hike before we head back down.
After weeks of balmy evenings, dusk brings a chilly wind here in Boquete and it’s back to sweatshirts and long trousers to watch the live band and sip our well earned beers. The evening atmosphere in the town is a little similar to La Fortuna in Costa Rica: visitors unwinding from the day’s activities, American expats chatting with staff, local youngsters enjoying a drink or a romantic hour on the bridges.
Our time in Boquete is all about experience and adventure, with some much anticipated adrenaline rushes to come over the next few days. The bonus is this delightful little town.
31 Comments
Monkey's Tale
Oh… we loved Boquete too. You’re right, there is a lot of tourism and ex-pat influence, but it doesn’t take anything away from this cute mountain town. Maggie
Phil & Michaela
Hi Maggie – at the moment, three days in, it feels like Boquete has everything. Loving it here!
Alison
Love it Phil and your wonderful descriptions of everything. It’s nice when you find a place you immediately fall in love with. The waterfalls are magnificent and worth the hike
How’s your accommodation, don’t forget to write about that
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Ali – accommodation is lovely apart from the water leak through the ceiling, maybe we’ll include a bit on that later! Boquete really is lovely though.
normareadtalktalknet
Incredible post and such a privilege to see and take such wonderful photos of the Frigate birds
Phil & Michaela
They really are a sight to see Normski……and Boquete is simply lovely.
Heyjude
Looking at that trail I can only assume Michaela’s knee has improved!
Phil & Michaela
Ah well it’s not fully recovered and she was a bit sore afterwards but grateful that she didn’t have to miss out, thanks Jude. Especially in this wonderful scenery, it really is lovely here.
grandmisadventures
Love at first sight kind of place absolutely fits! The whole area looks really lovely from the charming town to the hidden waterfalls. 🙂
Phil & Michaela
We love it so far!
Toonsarah
The magnificent frigatebirds are magnificent indeed, although I had a slight dispute with one in the Galapagos and have never quite forgiven him. Let’s say it involved having to wash my just washed hair for a second time that afternoon! As for Boquete, it sounds delightful, although that trail would have been well beyond my capabilities. I’m looking forward to what else you get up to there!
Phil & Michaela
Oh dear, I know what happened to your hair! And here, in Boquete, we are definitely getting up to plenty of mischief…
Mike and Kellye Hefner
How fantastic that you got to witness the magnificent frigate birds in their habitat! For me, it would be well worth the money and worry over Jose’s boat! Boquete looks absolutely charming, and I’m impressed that you braved the three waterfalls trail – but what a treat to see those gorgeous falls! Travel safely, and I look forward to your next post.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Kellye, Boquete is indeed absolutely lovely.
Jyothi
Wow.. loved it!! Beautiful description!!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Ah, you made it to our old stomping ground, Boquete!! You’re right, it’s a lovely little town that leaves the perfect first impression. Good for you, doing all three of the “lost waterfalls!” (The coldest water I ever swam in was in the pool at the third one – it took my breath away!) We did enjoy our three years in Boquete, but the expat scene wore on us after a while. And Isla Iguana was something we’d always heard about, but never managed to visit – so thanks for the second-hand experience!
– Susan
Phil & Michaela
Cheers, Susan – we are loving Boquete and all it delivers!
leightontravels
Your epic adventures continue. Getting to see those incredible birds up close sounds like yet another highlight. And then Boquete and the Lost Waterfall Trail seem not so shabby either! Glad to hear the town’s touristy feel has the right balance to it.
Andrew Petcher
Another lovely day, thanks for inviting us along.
Phil & Michaela
Ah maybe we should include a bit about logistics too, thanks for the prompt. We have a hire car and driving Panama is very easy – good roads and not much traffic away from the cities. We’ve used booking.com so we’ll try and put a bit in to a post shortly
Lookoom
I have seen fregatebirds up close in the Galapagos, including during the mating season. Their flight is so skillful with their attempts to steal food from other birds. In Boquete I also felt at ease, the presence of so many expats and visitors creates a positive mix with the local population.
wetanddustyroads
Wow, Michaela did a great job with her camera! The photos of the Frigatebird in flight are beautiful and love Boquete … you really pick out the most beautiful places to stay! Hmm, the Lost Waterfalls Trail looks like quite a challenge – great photos! Back to adventure it seems …
Annie Berger
Kudos galore to Michaela for her ‘magnificent’ shots of the male frigate birds in all their glory AND also mastering the Lost Waterfalls Trail. Like Sarah, that trail would be well beyond me save for your wonderful description, Phil.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Annie
Alison
I missed this post earlier. What a picturesque town. So much to do. The beach looks perfect, not sure I would have coped with the waterfalls trail. Sitting in the bar drinking and listening to live music sounds right up my alley
Phil & Michaela
There is no beach, Boquete is up in the mountains…
Alison
I was thinking of the first photo when I mentioned that ☺️
Phil & Michaela
I knew really x
Alison
There should be something where you can comment on each thing you’ve read as I think of things to say and forget by the end 😵💫
rkrontheroad
Lovely town and waterfalls. But the birds! I didn’t know about the frigatebirds and their red pouch, so unusual and dramatic.
Phil & Michaela
Thanks Ruth…it was a wonderful feeling standing while those majestic birds circled above us