Concluding Rome & Heading Home
The sun continues to shine from cloudless skies – as we enter the second half of October and near the end of this short Italian sojourn, temperatures of up to 29 degrees surprise and delight us. We had hoped for sunshine but this warmth has been a big bonus, so perfect for exploring the two wonderful cities of Bologna and Rome.
Tucked into the tight streets between the Trevi fountain and Piazza Navona, The Pantheon is a remarkable and beautiful building, boasting the widest masonry dome in Europe which in turn houses the oculus through which sunlight cascades in spectacular shafts. The whole place is fabulous.
The walls are adorned with vivid and colourful murals, ochre colours reflect the concealed lighting, statues gaze respectfully down towards the exquisitely tiled floor. Originally a pagan temple, this unique and splendid building has remained largely unaltered through its 1900-year history, hiding its utter glory behind giant bronze doors. The spectacular dome is precisely as high as it is wide, 142ft in each case. It is said that witnessing the rain, or indeed snow, fall through the oculus is a magical sight – our sun drenched days here mean we don’t get anywhere near witnessing that particular spectacle but there is such an enduring charm here.
Artists and kings are entombed within this glorious rotunda, where simply standing and staring fills the visitor with a real sense of being somewhere special. Everything about The Pantheon is gripping, even down to its bench pews in a gentle radius design and the imperceptible slopes of the flooring designed to drain away the rainwater.
Lugo di Torre Argentina, the ancient site at which Julius Caesar met his demise, is noteworthy for two reasons as well as its mighty historical significance: one, that the famous extensive feral cat colony appears to have been largely dispersed and only a few cats remain, and secondly that its status as the hub of the tram system has also moved on. Rome’s trams are nowhere near as conspicuous as they used to be: in the 20-odd years since I last came here, central Rome has reduced its tram network just as cities back home have been building theirs.
Some lines do still operate, but we don’t see any evidence of this despite walking many miles around the city – until, that is, our very last move, on the bus from city to airport, when at last a couple of heavy old trams rumble by.
Nevertheless the public transport system here remains useful and efficient as far as buses, metro and suburban trains are concerned, even if the trams are less visible. In reality though Rome seriously rewards those who explore on foot, it is a wonderful city through which to wander, with or without purpose.
Just south of Piazza Navona, the once thriving flower market at Campo di Fiore is now an amalgam of fruit and veg and pasta stalls, some souvenir sellers, and a whole gamut of attractive trattoria. Its character may have evolved but its spirit has remained – lively by day and night, there is a buzz and atmosphere here which is so stimulating that we just don’t want to walk away. Its verve is infectious.
Even after all of Rome’s delights, our last port of call brings one last surprise. Santa Maria Maggiore is reputedly the second favourite church of Romans, after you-know-where. As we enter its huge doorway, we are greeted by a bright, thrilling splendour, so bold and so colourful, its wide open central spaces augmented by beautiful side chapels in each direction. After all Rome has delivered, here is one last spellbinding sight, a truly beautiful church.
It’s been full on here and we have completely filled our days, and yet somehow still feel that we have only scratched the surface, such is the seemingly endless number of places to see and things to do. What an amazing, absorbing, wonderful city.
Bologna and Rome have thrilled us, Italy has again enhanced our love of all it has to offer. A shorter trip by our standards, yet filled with thrills.
Time to return home, just for a while.
23 Comments
mochatruffalo
Surprised to see that crowd in Rome this time of year. I’m hearing that there doesn’t seem to be an “off season” in Europe this year.
Phil & Michaela
It was extremely busy!
leightontravels
Again the relentless crowds turn me off, but I really do need to see Rome one day so what can you do? Enjoyed this wrap-up. Not only the ridiculously exquisite buildings but equally the cats (we must have hundreds of cat photos from across the world) and the food market captures. I feel it’s always sad when a city’s tram network fades away. Safe journey home.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers bud – see other answer re the crowds. Sometimes you just have to do it.
Lookoom
I share your love for Rome, it’s like an abundant buffet from which we would like to eat everything. It’s overwhelming. I’ll have to go back to Santa Maria Maggiore one day, I forgot about it last year.
Alison
It’s always a bonus when the sun shines and it’s warm as well, looks like you both had a fabulous trip. Those churches are indeed magnificent so much detail and richness.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
I have enjoyed your Italy posts so much. I certainly wish you could stay longer because as someone who travels on your coattails, I would love to see more! Your descriptions and photos will do that to a girl – especially one who really wants to visit there. Maybe someday. Nevertheless, I look forward to seeing where your next adventures take us. Have a lovely weekend.
Phil & Michaela
You too Kellye, thank you
Toonsarah
You’re right, I do have to go back to Rome one day! You’ve certainly captured much of its magic, although as others have commented you also seem to have encountered quite large crowds. I love that last shot in your slideshow, looking out from the Pantheon 😀
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – Michaela was pleased with it too! Rome is indeed magical, absolutely worth doing justice to despite its popularity.
WanderingCanadians
That’s one of the things that I love about most cities in Europe is just how walkable everything is. It’s fun just meandering through the maze of streets, especially in places like Rome and Bologna. Sounds like you had a wonderful trip and made the most of the nice weather.
wetanddustyroads
Yes, the inside of The Pantheon is indeed beautiful. You have shown some amazing places in your short visit – thank you for the treat. And I’ll be happy to leave Rome with a wooden spoon and a packet (or two) of pasta!
grandmisadventures
I always love how you give a perfect mix of history, culture, and the simple moments of these places you visit. Rome is somewhat overwhelming to me but you managed to share it so beautifully in just a short time. Can’t wait to see where you are heading next!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you – that’s a really pleasing thing to hear as that’s kind of what we try to achieve. A bit of history and culture but not going too deep and trying to capture how it feels for the visitor to be there. If we’re achieving that then we’re very happy…thank you so much x
Joe
Even on a relatively “short” trip, you guys covered a lot of ground in Bologna and Rome. You may have only “scratched the surface” but you scratched pretty deep. As you say, Rome is an “amazing, absorbing, wonderful city”. Thanks for introducing it to me!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Great post and great you had good weather.
giacomoasinello
So glad you enjoyed it. Yes, Rome is a tonic. A long weekend in Rome always cheers me up in difficult times.
Howard Koor
I so much enjoyed your lovely words and pictures about Rome. As you mentioned, you give the reader enough information to address the subject without getting bogged down. And your pictures are so nice. We just returned a few days ago from Rome! (7 days and 4 in Venice). Both are amazing places and so different as you know. I so enjoy being a tourist in Rome, walking everywhere. Taking lots of pictures. Sampling pizza, pasta, and Gelato everywhere, and seeing history all around. We spent 3 hours in the Vatican finishing at the Sistene Chapel–all so beautiful. The Pantheon is one of my favorite interior spaces in the world. And the people watching is fabulous. OK, it is noisy, dirty, and full of people–I just try to roll with it. Thank you so much.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you very much for those kind comments Howard – glad you enjoyed Rome as much as we did
Discover and Explore
🙏🙏
Discover and Explore
Thanks for your coverage of Rome. We were there 2 weeks ago (our third time). I love it, despite the crowds, noise, and a bit dirty. But that is a price that I will pay to see such a large amount of historic beauty. Pantheon, Vatican City, Trevi Fountain, and so much more is a pleasure to amidst. Thank you.
Discover and Explore
Oops, I realized that I already commented! Sorry.
Phil & Michaela
Not a problem in the slightest!