Piazzas, Porticos & Pasta: Notes From Bologna
Bologna’s famous porticos are immediately evident even as we make our way from the railway station to our apartment close to the heart of the city – not surprising given just how far they extend through the city streets. Originally constructed from wood to provide additional display areas for shopkeepers, these attractive extensions now take on a variety of forms: sweeping brickwork arches, concrete and steel squares, segmented tunnels.
Handily providing protection from both the summer sun and the winter rain, these porticos stretch improbably for nearly 25 miles around Bologna’s streets, giving it something of a unique look. Well certainly unusual even if not unique.
Bologna enjoys a reputation as Italy’s culinary capital, lays claim to the world’s oldest university and boasts a wonderful collection of beautiful churches, palaces and towers. Its nicknames include La Dotta (“The Learned”), La Rossa (“The Red”) and, most amusing of all, La Grassa (“The Fat”), references to, in turn, its university, its architecture and its gastronomy.
Amongst the styles of pasta credited to Bologna is the tortellini which, according to legend, was the brainchild of a young chef who based the tortellini shape on the perfect navel of his master’s wife. Now this story may or may not be true, but all I can say is that I probably wouldn’t have been too enamoured if an employee of mine had based an invention on Michaela’s belly button.
The atmospheric streets, whether the tight cobbled alleys or the wider thoroughfares lined with grand palazzi, radiate from Bologna’s beating heart, the grand and enthralling Piazza Maggiore. With the towering Basilica di San Petronio forming one of the square’s four imposing borders, this is a place to marvel at the architecture as well as study its people as the whole city seems to make their way across its spaces at least once a day.
The Basilica’s unusual frontage looks unfinished – due in all probability to the fact that unfinished is exactly what it is, the grand plans for completion being thwarted by papal intervention when Pius IV diverted the previously allocated funds elsewhere. Bologna, it seems, has enjoyed a somewhat fractious relationship with the Vatican down the centuries.
Maggiore’s smaller neighbour, Piazza del Nettuno, has as its centre point an impressive 16th century statue and fountain of the sea god Neptune, which sports not only four voluptuous sirens who spurt water into the fountain by clasping their hands around their ample breasts to project water from the nipples, but also a certain delicate part of Neptune’s anatomy which is, shall we say, perhaps on the large side as classical representations of manhood go.
The Vatican’s horror at Giambologna’s creation, at one stage ordering the statue to be covered by a cloak, was, and still is, a source of amusement and smug satisfaction to the Bolognese. A small victory still resonating nearly 500 years later!
A short walk east from Maggiore are the “Due Torri” (two towers), remnants of a time when wealthy families indulgently built these narrow erect structures as an ostentatious demonstration of wealth and power. At one time there were in excess of 120 of these things, such was the prosperity of trading in the narrow streets below. Nearly 20 are still standing.
The Due Torri, the city’s two most imposing iconic and potent symbols of medieval wealth, were built by two of those rich merchant families and, although one has been subsequently shortened for safety reasons, they remain mightily impressive. Both of them lean a considerable angle from upright – in differing directions – their proximity to each other adding to the slightly comical asymmetrical scene. The two towers bear the name of those two wealthy families to this day – Asinelli and Garisenda.
Ascending Asinelli is one way of working off some of the calories, it’s a calf-sapping 498 steps up a tight spiral staircase before we emerge out on to the platform way above the city where the views across the red rooftops make every step worthwhile. From up here you really get a sense of the size of Bologna’s churches, and just how many there are, as well as the unmistakable source of the city’s “Red” moniker.
Each church we visit is a cavernous and expansive building, the huge vaulted ceilings way above us carrying elaborate and extensive frescoes with intricate detail, the Cattedrale di San Pietro possibly even rivalling San Petronio for both vastness and detail. These ceilings are mesmerising – in fact it is said that the Sistine Chapel owed much to a visit to Bologna by an impressionable young Michaelangelo.
South west of the city high up in the Bologna hills and visible from all vantage points throughout the city, the Santuario della Madonna di San Luca presides in pinkish glory over the rolling countryside. In this city of porticos (“portici”) the pilgrimage route up the hillside is the most stunning portico of all, its near-700 arches snaking their way more than two miles from a downtown piazza to the very foyer of the majestic “Luca”, making it indisputably the longest continuous portico in the world.
With a scaling of both Asinelli and the clock tower behind us, we opt out of the 2-mile climb and instead take the tourist road train with its informative commentary up the long and winding road, way up to this most stunning and majestic of buildings. Inside, like just about all of Bologna’s houses of worship, there is a large and detailed carving of the death of Christ which, again like the others, is most noticeable for the painfully sorrowful faces of those tending the body.
And so to the food scene in this city with such an admirable gastronomic reputation. After a false start with two disappointingly bland pasta dishes, this visit has since thrown its welcome blanket around us and fed us a succession of delicious meals with the highest quality produce. Successive neighbourhoods reveal clusters of cosy and tempting trattoria, lively osteria and buzzing pizza houses.
Where to begin? Tortellini in brodo, the belly button pasta in a consommé-like broth, and taglieri, a giant charcuterie board with the revered mortadella as its centrepiece, both form excellent lunches. But at night the choice is almost endless, with tagliatelle al ragu (the traditional bolognese dish – it is NEVER spaghetti!) just one of a whole range of pastas available, alongside beautifully prepared meat or vegetarian dishes with sauces and accompaniments to die for.
Parmesan and balsamic in its home territory. Caponata from heaven; grilled aubergine oozing high class olive oil; deliciously light egg pasta, often with herb-heavy fillings…and just the most deliciously tender cuts of pork and beef you can even imagine let alone wish for. Michaela even has a “Visalia moment” and declares one beef fillet the best she’s ever tasted. We came with high foodie hopes to this renowned destination and have rather wonderfully found our expectations exceeded. This place is absolutely the food heaven of its reputation. And we haven’t even mentioned the wine.
Sangiovese is the grape from which Chianti is made – any wine named Sangiovese is made from the same grape but cultivated outside of the Chianti hills. It just seems to be the perfect accompaniment to Bologna’s cuisine.
Tucked in the alleys just off Maggiore, the Quadrilatero district is packed with thriving eateries. Here, in an even tighter alley, Vicolo Ranocchi, lies an unassuming doorway, no sign above it, through which we can see walls adorned with many ageing photographs.
Had we not ventured through that doorway, we would never have discovered what goes on in this tiny corner of Bologna. More to follow…
30 Comments
Gilda Baxter
I am glad you did find some delicious places to eat. Bologna is very special to me, sounds like you are enjoying it. Your photos are beautiful, making me miss Bologna.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Gilda
Toonsarah
Ah wonderful, you are loving Bologna and its food! Your photos certainly take me back. We stayed just off the Piazza Maggiore and ate in and around the Quadrilatero most evenings 🙂 We didn’t make it up to the Santuario however, and only one of us made it to the top of a tower – clue, it wasn’t me! You’ve really captured the feel of the city and made me want to return …
Phil & Michaela
Hi Sarah…even better than we expected!
Christie
All those dishes sound and look so mouthwatering, glad they did exceed your expectation.
A beautiful city, we need to add it on our list🙂
Phil & Michaela
Definitely recommended!
Andrew Petcher
We went to Bologna in 2018, thanks for the memory nudge.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Oh, you are a trickster, Phil, leaving us hanging like that! Bologna is fabulous through your camera’s eye and your words. From the piazzas to the food to the churches, towers, and red buildings, I enjoyed every word your post. Cannot wait to see what you and Michaela surprise us with next.
Monkey's Tale
I love the architecture, even the unfinished church looks great! Wine, pasta, old buildings, whatsnot to love?
Phil & Michaela
Exactly!
wetanddustyroads
The porticos (didn’t know that’s what its called), are beautiful! The views from the tower are wonderful, so are the streets and canals … but oh my, get me to those food places please! GREAT photos!
Phil & Michaela
A highly recommended city!
WanderingCanadians
Sounds like you had a wonderful time in Bologona. And hey, you even climbed up the Asinelli tower. It’s funny because I didn’t even notice that it was leaning when we were inside it, maybe I was too focused on other things, like trying to catch my breath. It definitely was a great way to burn off the calories from all that delicious Italian cuisine. My mouth is watering from looking at all the food you ate.
Phil & Michaela
Really enjoyed Bologna, but need to work a few pounds off now!
leightontravels
Thanks for taking me to a city I haven’t yet visited. The porticoes are so characterful and distinctive. I didn’t know Bologna had canals! The architecture wows throughout, even the “unfinished” stuff. It’s a foodie’s haven by the looks of it too, with a bold claim there from Michaela. What a multitude of dishes you seem to have got through. Love the uniform colour to the place, best in evidence via those views from the towers.
Phil & Michaela
A very enjoyable city to visit, Leighton. It deserves its good reputations.
grandmisadventures
Oh all the porticos are just beautiful and effortlessly elegant. Lovely city views along with a controversial Neptune statue and amazing eats seems to be the best kind of place to be. Wonderful tour of this city!
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, yes we can definitely recommend Bologna
Linda K
What a beautiful city! Your photos really bring it to life from the different styled buildings to the wonderful plates of food. Looks like there is no lack of places to photograph and enjoy in that city! Love the tortellini story 🙂
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Linda, yes it’s a great place to visit
Lookoom
This Italian architecture always makes me dream, I see that it seduces you as much. You have made the right choice of destination to admire quietly and then enjoy the good food. Would it be as good in a dreadful place?
Phil & Michaela
I think it probably would, it definitely is a food destination, though of course being in beautiful surroundings adds considerably to the enjoyment.
Alison
Looks like food and wine heaven, seems like all that walking is beneficial!
Phil & Michaela
Definitely recommended!
giacomoasinello
I wondered whether you would make it up to the top of the Asinelli tower. I remember those wonderful views! Time for a long weekend in Bologna,methinks. It’s been far too long.
Phil & Michaela
The tower which is almost your namesake huh….
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Fantastic. Gotta go here.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, it’s a pretty good destination!
rkrontheroad
The romantic porticos are great shelter from the rain as well as lovely places to stroll. Enjoyed your writeup to another place I haven’t been. Although I may never look at tortellini the same way again.
Annie Berger
Amused by the story behind the origins of tortellini, Phil. Captivating photos of porticos, canals and pasta dishes that sound divine.