Plaza Maggiore Bologna
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Piazzas, Porticos & Pasta: Notes From Bologna  

Bologna’s famous porticos are immediately evident even as we make our way from the railway station to our apartment close to the heart of the city – not surprising given just how far they extend through the city streets. Originally constructed from wood to provide additional display areas for shopkeepers, these attractive extensions now take on a variety of forms: sweeping brickwork arches, concrete and steel squares, segmented tunnels.

Porticos of Bologna
Examples of Bologna’s porticos

Handily providing protection from both the summer sun and the winter rain, these porticos stretch improbably for nearly 25 miles around Bologna’s streets, giving it something of a unique look. Well certainly unusual even if not unique.

Portico in Bologna
Another portico

Bologna enjoys a reputation as Italy’s culinary capital, lays claim to the world’s oldest university and boasts a wonderful collection of beautiful churches, palaces and towers. Its nicknames include La Dotta (“The Learned”), La Rossa (“The Red”) and, most amusing of all, La Grassa (“The Fat”), references to, in turn, its university, its architecture and its gastronomy.

Amongst the styles of pasta credited to Bologna is the tortellini which, according to legend, was the brainchild of a young chef who based the tortellini shape on the perfect navel of his master’s wife. Now this story may or may not be true, but all I can say is that I probably wouldn’t have been too enamoured if an employee of mine had based an invention on Michaela’s belly button.

The atmospheric streets, whether the tight cobbled alleys or the wider thoroughfares lined with grand palazzi, radiate from Bologna’s beating heart, the grand and enthralling Piazza Maggiore. With the towering Basilica di San Petronio forming one of the square’s four imposing borders, this is a place to marvel at the architecture as well as study its people as the whole city seems to make their way across its spaces at least once a day.

San Petonio in Piazza Maggiore Bologna
San Petronio and its unfinished facade
Clock tower in Piazza Maggiore Bologna
Piazza Maggiore

The Basilica’s unusual frontage looks unfinished – due in all probability to the fact that unfinished is exactly what it is, the grand plans for completion being thwarted by papal intervention when Pius IV diverted the previously allocated funds elsewhere. Bologna, it seems, has enjoyed a somewhat fractious relationship with the Vatican down the centuries.

Piazza Maggiore Bologna
Piazza Maggiore
Piazza Maggiore

Maggiore’s smaller neighbour, Piazza del Nettuno, has as its centre point an impressive 16th century statue and fountain of the sea god Neptune, which sports not only four voluptuous sirens who spurt water into the fountain by clasping their hands around their ample breasts to project water from the nipples, but also a certain delicate part of Neptune’s anatomy which is, shall we say, perhaps on the large side as classical representations of manhood go.

Neptune fountain Bologna
The controversial Neptune fountain

The Vatican’s horror at Giambologna’s creation, at one stage ordering the statue to be covered by a cloak, was, and still is, a source of amusement and smug satisfaction to the Bolognese. A small victory still resonating nearly 500 years later!

A short walk east from Maggiore are the “Due Torri” (two towers), remnants of a time when wealthy families indulgently built these narrow erect structures as an ostentatious demonstration of wealth and power. At one time there were in excess of 120 of these things, such was the prosperity of trading in the narrow streets below. Nearly 20 are still standing.

The Due Torri, the city’s two most imposing iconic and potent symbols of medieval wealth, were built by two of those rich merchant families and, although one has been subsequently shortened for safety reasons, they remain mightily impressive. Both of them lean a considerable angle from upright – in differing directions – their proximity to each other adding to the slightly comical asymmetrical scene. The two towers bear the name of those two wealthy families to this day – Asinelli and Garisenda. 

View from Asinelli Tower Bologna
View from Asinelli Tower
View from Asinelli Tower

Ascending Asinelli is one way of working off some of the calories, it’s a calf-sapping 498 steps up a tight spiral staircase before we emerge out on to the platform way above the city where the views across the red rooftops make every step worthwhile. From up here you really get a sense of the size of Bologna’s churches, and just how many there are, as well as the unmistakable source of the city’s “Red” moniker.

Bologna The Red

Each church we visit is a cavernous and expansive building, the huge vaulted ceilings way above us carrying elaborate and extensive frescoes with intricate detail, the Cattedrale di San Pietro possibly even rivalling San Petronio for both vastness and detail. These ceilings are mesmerising – in fact it is said that the Sistine Chapel owed much to a visit to Bologna by an impressionable young Michaelangelo.

South west of the city high up in the Bologna hills and visible from all vantage points throughout the city, the Santuario della Madonna di San Luca presides in pinkish glory over the rolling countryside. In this city of porticos (“portici”) the pilgrimage route up the hillside is the most stunning portico of all, its near-700 arches snaking their way more than two miles from a downtown piazza to the very foyer of the majestic “Luca”, making it indisputably the longest continuous portico in the world.

Santuario della Madonna di San Luca Bologna
Santuario della Madonna di San Luca

With a scaling of both Asinelli and the clock tower behind us, we opt out of the 2-mile climb and instead take the tourist road train with its informative commentary up the long and winding road, way up to this most stunning and majestic of buildings. Inside, like just about all of Bologna’s houses of worship, there is a large and detailed carving of the death of Christ which, again like the others, is most noticeable for the painfully sorrowful faces of those tending the body.

Luca Bologna
Luca

And so to the food scene in this city with such an admirable gastronomic reputation. After a false start with two disappointingly bland pasta dishes, this visit has since thrown its welcome blanket around us and fed us a succession of delicious meals with the highest quality produce. Successive neighbourhoods reveal clusters of cosy and tempting trattoria, lively osteria and buzzing pizza houses.

Quadrilatero

Towards the Jewish quarter

Where to begin? Tortellini in brodo, the belly button pasta in a consommé-like broth, and taglieri, a giant charcuterie board with the revered mortadella as its centrepiece, both form excellent lunches. But at night the choice is almost endless, with tagliatelle al ragu (the traditional bolognese dish – it is NEVER spaghetti!) just one of a whole range of pastas available, alongside beautifully prepared meat or vegetarian dishes with sauces and accompaniments to die for.

Parmesan and balsamic in its home territory. Caponata from heaven; grilled aubergine oozing high class olive oil; deliciously light egg pasta, often with herb-heavy fillings…and just the most deliciously tender cuts of pork and beef you can even imagine let alone wish for. Michaela even has a “Visalia moment” and declares one beef fillet the best she’s ever tasted. We came with high foodie hopes to this renowned destination and have rather wonderfully found our expectations exceeded. This place is absolutely the food heaven of its reputation. And we haven’t even mentioned the wine.

Sangiovese is the grape from which Chianti is made – any wine named Sangiovese is made from the same grape but cultivated outside of the Chianti hills. It just seems to be the perfect accompaniment to Bologna’s cuisine.

Tucked in the alleys just off Maggiore, the Quadrilatero district is packed with thriving eateries. Here, in an even tighter alley, Vicolo Ranocchi, lies an unassuming doorway, no sign above it, through which we can see walls adorned with many ageing photographs. 

Had we not ventured through that doorway, we would never have discovered what goes on in this tiny corner of Bologna. More to follow…

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