Mexico City: CDMX #2
Delicious smells from the city’s bakeries fill the air before we’re properly awake. Another day dawns and it’s once again time to climb on to the speeding merry-go-round which is Mexico City, there’s still so much more to see and do.
Hernan Cortes and his cohorts may have taken the 16th century equivalent of a bulldozer to ancient history, but at least the period of Spanish occupation saw the construction of a majestic and beautiful city in its place; you only have to see the Palacio de Belles Artes, the Casa Ajuelos, the churches, even the Post Office, to love the grand architecture of this giant city. Yes, even the Post Office is beautiful – surely one of the most elegant mail buildings in the world, and rather pleasingly it still serves its original purpose to this day.
Like Guadalajara, Mexico City has its centre for mariachi music, in Plaza Garibaldi, where dozens of costumed musicians entertain diners, drinkers and dancers with their particular brand of joyous music. Touristy it may be, but there are plenty of locals here singing along with every word, and the atmosphere is exciting, if a little chaotic with several bands all playing at the same time.
It’s in Garibaldi that we try the ancient Aztec drink of pulque, fermented from the maguey cactus, which feels rather primitive as alcoholic drinks go – the fermentation still fizzing on the tongue and the viscosity somewhere just short of the level of shower gel.
With so much to see in this “city that has everything” according to its own tag line, we feel a little reluctant to embark on even a single excursion out of town, but the opportunity to see Teotihuacan is too good to miss. Once an integral part of Mesoamerica’s greatest city, the remaining site containing the Piramide del Sol and Piramide de la Luna, is mightily impressive and very reminiscent of the site at Monte Alban which we visited a few years ago.
These aren’t true pyramids, having a flat top which originally sported major temples, and in fact there is now some dispute over whether they were indeed dedicated to sun and moon Gods or rather the Gods of rain and water, but viewing these hefty ancient constructions is absorbing, particularly when we consider just what a small section of the giant ancient city this site was.
Archeological studies have established that the buildings of this mighty city were stone built, then covered with adobe and decorated with colourings extracted from plants and insects, including cochineal. In just a few precious places this paintwork has been preserved.
The Aztec tribes were masters of astronomy, creating what is still one of the most accurate calendars ever created by mankind. Much of their study of the sun’s movements was accomplished by using pieces of the volcanic rock obsidian to filter the sun’s rays and make direct observation possible. From this they created the Aztec calendar, facilitating seasonal farming, predictions of daylight hours as well as bringing order to their community.
If Mexico the country is colourful, then Mexico the city takes it to another level. And in a city and country of such rich hues, an artisan market hawking traditional items from all areas is always going to be vivid and radiant. So it is with Cuidadella Market, quite possibly the most vibrantly colourful market we’ve ever wandered through. We’re going to need an extra backpack at this rate, such is the temptation to buy.
A word about Mexico City’s metro system, part of its rather excellent and seriously cheap public transport network. The system is extremely easy to follow thanks to something rather enduring in its design: all lines are colour coded (not unusual) but each of the 100+ stations is identified by a graphic as well as a name. This simple graphic is unrelated to the station name, and may for instance be an apple, or a horse, or an archway. The reason? Illiteracy rates were high when the metro system was built, and the whole network is designed to be easily used by those unable to read. How imaginative.
It’s on that metro system and the “tren ligere” (light railway) that we make our way out to the suburb of Xochimilco south of the centre. Here, in an area nicknamed Mexico’s Venice, a series of canals beneath overhanging trees wend their way around raised plots of land and waterfront houses.
Xochimilco was created by the Aztecs, the raised ground between the waterways was the highly fertile ground on which the ancient tribes grew large quantities of the fruit and vegetables so necessary to feed the population of a major city. Nowadays, it has become a tourist attraction for very different reasons, with literally dozens of brightly painted, multi-coloured gondolas ferrying visitors up and down the canals.
Misguidedly, we think we are in for a peaceful boat ride as a change from the endless verve of the city – but the markedly different reality is that Xochimilco is a little piece of tourist madness. Canals are virtually gridlocked by the boats, some in full party swing, interspersed with boatloads of mariachi musicians belting out numbers, floating shops selling souvenir tat, or selling beer, michelada and pulque, the gondoliers playing a game of waterborne bumper cars rather than avoiding collision. It’s a cacophonous mayhem on this out of season Wednesday afternoon, goodness knows what it’s like when it’s busy.
Five days definitely isn’t enough to do justice to Mexico City. How many more days than five one could spend inside this never ending fiesta of a city with its drumbeats, colour, verve and life, is another question completely. It’s as full on as it gets here.
Whatever, after five days, it’s time for us, at least, to move on. But then again maybe there’s just time for a few more cervezas and a couple of tacos before we go….
35 Comments
Monkey's Tale
Your description of pulque makes me gag a bit. Was it okay? But love all the singers in Garibaldi.
Phil & Michaela
No actually it was pretty horrible, Maggie, although later on elsewhere we were given a more refined version which was a bit more palatable.
Mike and Kellye Hefner
Wow! Being neighbors with Mexio, and having visited some border towns, a trip to Mexico City hasn’t been on our list until now. You’ve inspired us to see Mexico City. Who would’ve thought a post office could be as architecturally beautiful as a historic church? We had no idea there were canals near CDMX. Another place on our ever-growing list. Thank you, Phil and Michaela, for enlightening us!
Phil & Michaela
It’s the “city that has everything”! It is also though a city where you need to be on your guard: we were given lots of warnings about crime against tourists so you really have to be doubly careful – though we never felt threatened at any time.
Brian Tucker
Well I am exhausted just reading about it all!
Such great posts Many thanks. Brian
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Brian – exhausting is the word!
Lookoom
Like you, I really liked Mexico City, lively but reasonable at the same time. The cultural life also seems very rich, especially for the museums that are most easily accessible for visitors of other languages. I’m just a bit surprised that you haven’t mentioned Frida Kahlo, an essential figure. It was learning about her life that made me realise how perfectly integrated Mexican inteligencia was with the rest of the world.
Phil & Michaela
Hmmmm…interesting you should say that because I pictured writing something but it didn’t make the final draft. As you will have seen, we try to make our posts an honest appraisal of everywhere we visit, based completely on our own experiences. Although Frida & Diego are such an intrinsic part of the city’s (and country’s) history, we didn’t physically visit anywhere which paid any homage, so it would have felt a bit contrived to elbow it in – but only because (we hope) we have a certain style of delivery. I had expected it to form part of our posts (I pictured hero Kahlo versus villain Cortes) but, as I say, it didn’t happen. Plus of course, you can’t get everywhere and do everything in 5 days in a city like CDMX, so some things by definition get left out. It’s an incredibly vibrant, colourful city, so full of life and full of interest.
Lookoom
I completely agree Mexico City is too big to see everything in 5 days and you have done a lot. Of course I was already familiar with Frida Kahlo’s life and work before coming, but I was really surprised by the merchandising of her image everywhere. But I see you got the point since you had planned to write about it. I enjoyed your articles on Mexico City, as always, well written and well illustrated.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you, much appreciated.
Annie Berger
Another great post on Mexico City, the city that never sleeps. Hadn’t heard of the canal suburb before – smiled at your description of waterborne bumper cars!
Phil & Michaela
Ha ha cheers, Annie, glad to amuse! Definitely a city that never sleeps.
Joe
As usual, you guys covered a lot of ground in only a 5-day visit! Getting out of the big city to visit Teotihucán and Xochimilco is a really nice way to re-energize and learn more about the geography and history of Mexico. I was wondering if you had the chance to see the Ballet Foklórico at the Palacio de Bellls Artes? It is a beautiful show. I also found the restaurant inside the Casa Azulejos to be pretty good. Did you have a meal there?
Phil & Michaela
Unfortunately the answer to both of those is no… We did have some great meals though (loved a restaurant called Tacuba), but we left the city knowing there was so much more. Unfortunately there’s always a few things you can’t fit in.
mochatruffalo
You can officially call yourself an influencer. Before reading your post, I was thinking of just heading down to Cabo for a 10-day “mattress run” (I.e., staying at a hotel chain in order to get hotel status). But now, we may just head down to CDMX…
Phil & Michaela
It’s well worth it… but also make sure you read the safety advice carefully. It’s one of “those” cities.
mochatruffalo
“Those” as in Cairo?
Phil & Michaela
Well, more to do with crime against tourists. Everybody, including your hotel, warns you to take extra care and be doubly vigilant. We didn’t experience anything bad at all, but we were on our guard and were extra careful. I guess all the usual things you would or wouldn’t do in a city, just double. But don’t let that put you off in the slightest, it’s a terrific city with so much to offer – and like I say, we didn’t have any bad experiences.
mochatruffalo
Thanks for the heads up. Our hotel is booked and airfare is next. Nothing will stand between us and great tacos!
Phil & Michaela
And nor should it! Enjoy!!
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Looks like you followed a bit in our footsteps. Great photos.
Phil & Michaela
Cheers guys!
leightontravels
It all looks wondrous. I’ve seen some elegant post offices around the world, but this one surely takes the biscuit. Neither Sladja and I would even make eye contact with the pulque, strong alcohol is not something we deal with (a bit like your sweet tooth?) and this sounds particularly gruesome. As for Teotihuacan and their not-true pyramids, I can understand why you were willing to sacrifice a day even when time was already limited. Great stuff.
Phil & Michaela
Well in truth neither of us are spirit drinkers, we usually stick to beer and wine. But when travelling we usually feel compelled to try anything which is specific to the local culture, whether it’s food, soft drink or alcohol – though it often turns to be a one off! (PS – there’s a very lovely smooth coffee tequila which is extremely pleasant!)
Toonsarah
Wow, a sensory overload just on my screen, I can’t begin to imagine what it must feel like to be there! Visiting Teotihucán would be an absolute must for me (it would be fascinating to compare it with Tikal and Lamanai), and I reckon Xochimilco too, because is looks so colourful even if it is touristy. That market too looks worth a visit. How are people there about camera-wielding visitors? I don’t see any in your photos apart from the musicians.
Phil & Michaela
Ah, seemingly it depends on cultural background. Certain tribes are VERY anti personal photographs, others content with it. Given that we’re not able to discern tribal origin just by looking, Michaela played safe.
Toonsarah
That makes sense, but you know me – I wouldn’t be able to resist trying for a few shots or at least asking for some 🙂
Phil & Michaela
And capture some cracking shots no doubt!
Toonsarah
Well, I’d try …
grandmisadventures
my goodness, you would never guess that was a post office and just think it was a grand palace instead! Love the mix of that elaborate architecture of the new buildings and the simple beauty of the architecture of the ancient structures 🙂
Phil & Michaela
The city has endless fascinations, something for everyone probably.
wetanddustyroads
Oh my word, what a post office! It’s just amazing to see how much colour there is in and around Mexico City! Great photo’s of a very vibrant city … after reading your post, I think I’m in need of a cerveza myself now!
Phil & Michaela
It was definitely very full on!
WanderingCanadians
That is one fancy Post Office! Your excursion to see Teotihuacan and go back in time to learn more about the Aztecs seems like it was worth it.
Phil & Michaela
It certainly was