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This Is Yosemite

July 11, 2022 /

So many people had told us that Yosemite was fabulous long before we came here, and just about everyone whose advice we sought before planning our California adventure checked that we’d included Yosemite on our itinerary. Then, the guy in the Santana T-shirt at Downtown Joe’s in Napa said that we will never forget seeing Half Dome for the first time.

Half dome in Yosemite
Half Dome Yosemite

None of this was a case of over selling; in fact, no amount of pre-warning can really prepare you for the unbridled joy of Yosemite. Even before we enter the Park, the drive from our base at “the Bug” to the Park gates is absolutely stunning, following the River Merced as it surges through the beautiful valley, frothing over rocks and crashing playfully down from the mountains.

Entering Yosemite
Arch Rock entrance
Tunnel view in Yosemite
Tunnel View Yosemite

And then we enter Yosemite, through El Portal and the Arch Rock entrance, into Yosemite Valley itself, and for the rest of the day we just simply keep having our breath taken away. For the first of our two full days here, we figure our best option is to drive to several of the major sights in turn, taking a short stroll at each one. It works a treat and we take in some truly, truly amazing scenes.

El Capitan Yosemite
Yosemite

Towering sides of the valley, incredible giant rock formations reaching improbable heights, dramatic waterfalls and surging rivers, green meadows in the base of the deep valley, it’s all absolutely stunning. Just taking in the proportions of it all is a challenge to the senses. Rarely have we seen anywhere where beauty meets power meets size meets beauty, with such magical effect.

3 Brothers Yosemite
Cathedral Rock Yosemite
Cathedral Rock Yosemite

The waterfalls may be past their springtime spectacular but they remain impressive nonetheless; the Bridalveil Falls living up to their illustrious name as the white sheen both descends the gorge and drifts away in the wind; the Upper Yosemite Falls cascading in seeming slow motion from way, way above. 

Yosemite Falls
Bridalveil Falls Yosemite

Immense, towering rock features with descriptive names like The Sentinel, El Capitan, Three Brothers, Half Dome and Cathedral Rock are so incredibly steep that our necks hurt just craning to see the top. But all around us there is stunning beauty in so many styles; beauty far better displayed in photographs than described in words…

Yosemite
Yosemite

Our second Yosemite day sees us take the opposite options: less stops, less driving and more hiking, in fact in the end we hike over 13 miles of this sensational scenery. Our wonderful day takes in a trail up to Mirror Lake, including wading through its cold waters, followed by an afternoon hike up the John Muir Trail towards Vernal Falls.

Mirror Lake trail Yosemite
Mirror Lake trail Yosemite
Mirror Lake trail Yosemite

Yosemite is busy. People flock to the main sites, and at times even car parking requires patience, but as ever, the further we hike, the more the crowds thin out, until eventually there are few enough hikers for pleasantries to be exchanged each time we pass. As human numbers fall, animal sightings increase. A black tailed deer casually wanders along the river, almost posing for us; squirrels dart around the sandy ground; colourful birds and butterflies flutter by. 

But the hike to Vernal Falls provides us with an afternoon which is a succession of fabulous experiences. Prior to arriving here we had joked about seeing a bear but, having never seen one in the wild before, we didn’t think for a moment our wish would come true, but it does: this beautiful specimen foraging amongst the undergrowth no more than 50 yards away from us. We can’t quite believe what we are seeing as the young bear slowly goes about its business, oblivious to our presence.

Black bear in Yosemite
Just 50 yards away

Up and onward we climb, following the ribbon of cascading waters which roar as they crash through the rocks, the river racing downhill as we climb steeply up and up towards the head of the falls. The pure white waterfall teases us with glimpses of its pure beauty, until eventually we emerge on to its terraces.

John Muir Trail Yosemite
John Muir Trail Yosemite

Approaching the highest, most dramatic section of Vernal Falls, we just stand in awe at where we are, and what we can see.

Spray from the falls soaks us we stare, looking up at this incredibly beautiful scene. The water roars yet is graceful, pummels yet drifts, in paradoxical movements which are simply mesmerising. It’s incredible to stand and watch nature at its most unleashed. We’re not even sure we thought we’d ever be standing in a place like this.

Vernal Falls Yosemite
Vernal Falls Yosemite

Amongst the rocks around the cascade are lush, bright green plants, gorging on the endless spray – these plants effectively live in perpetual rainfall, and the iridescent colours reflect this. It’s summer, this is not the falls at their most spectacular, yet being here and seeing this is more than wonderful. Whatever must this place look like in Spring, we wonder.

Vernal Falls Yosemite

It’s emotional, standing here in awe of nature’s beauty and nature’s power, and revelling in our great fortune in just being here. It’s almost as if our whole reason to travel and see the world has been encapsulated in one single day.

Wow, Yosemite has delivered. 

Yosemite

Returning to our base at “the Bug” each night is a different level of welcoming. Everybody at the Bug has been out exploring Yosemite all day – there are suntanned faces and tired legs everywhere. Everyone is ravenous and the June Bug cafe does brisk business as we gather around our tables, eat the unexpectedly excellent food and unwind from our day. And everyone seems to be glowing from their experiences.

There’s a campfire pit and a mini amphitheatre, but both remain untouched each evening, as if all guests are worn out and sleep comes early. By 10pm it’s quiet at the Bug – well, at least we think it is, but we’re already in dreamland by then. 

One of the utter joys of travel is that wonderfully delicious mixture when you’re moving on – a mixture of wanting to stay longer fighting with the excitement for seeing the next place. We’re full of that heady mix as we leave the Bug after breakfast on head out on to the Highway. Ahead of us lies a 2-day drive and yet more new experiences, including crossing a state line.

It’s goodbye Yosemite, our next stop is on Route 66. 

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