Along Route 1: Morro Bay To Monterey
One of our last conversations in Morro Bay is in The Libertine bar, with two guys who are driving Route 1 north to south, the opposite way to us, who tell us the fog has been so consistent that they haven’t seen much of the Pacific all the way from San Francisco. So we say goodbye to Claudia and farewell to Morro Bay hoping that we don’t have the same experience.
Unfortunately, for the most part we do – what we hoped would be a spectacular drive up the Pacific Highway (Route 1) sees the coast obscured by fog for well over half the journey once we are beyond Cambria, but those sections where we have clear views do provide spectacular vistas. The huge mountains seem to plunge straight into the waters, interrupted only by the road itself.
Nowhere has the narrow coastal grip of the fog been more obvious than when we stop en route at Hearst Castle. As we turn off, the highway is misty and the ocean invisible; as we park the Chevvy just a few hundred yards inland off the highway, it’s bright but crisp; by the time we’ve taken the shuttle bus up the hill to the house, it’s scorching – and we look down on the huge expanse of fog which sits below us just above the ocean.
Hearst Castle is a place of wonder, the brainchild of William Randolph Hearst and the creation of his obviously gifted architect Julia Morgan. The only child of a self-made mining and ranching millionaire, Hearst travelled extensively throughout Europe and the Americas as a youngster with his mother and later as a young adult. Ahead of inheriting the family fortune, Hearst built his own majorly successful empire as what today we would call a media mogul, with populist newspapers, magazines and movies helping to generate considerable wealth.
The gigantic area on which Hearst Castle stands – the northern boundary of the estate is 35 miles from the house – had been acquired by Hearst Snr and was always a favourite of the son, so much so that on inheriting the place he set about building “a little something” on the hill. Despite its name, it isn’t a castle, and it definitely isn’t a “little something”, but it is truly magnificent.
Set in something resembling a Mediterranean village way up on the top of the hills, Hearst Castle is a somewhat outrageous example of indulgence and opulence, stunningly designed and sumptuously finished. If Hearst himself was inspired, then Julia Morgan was one serious talent. With in-depth knowledge and considerable wealth at his disposal, Hearst assembled a major collection of artefacts, sculptures, artworks and other features, which Morgan then absorbed into the design of the property.
Columns from Rome, ceilings from Spain, statues from Egypt, even fireplaces from France, all feature. Rather than displayed on plinths or the like, these were all incorporated into Morgan’s designs, forming integral parts as the “castle” rooms were built around each feature. The result is a level of splendour which has to be seen to be believed. 22-carat gold tiles and Murano glass in the swimming pool? You got it…
Sumptuous room after sumptuous room greeted the great and the good throughout Hearst’s tenure, from serving Presidents (Coolidge) to future Prime Ministers (Churchill), and an array of movie stars including Cary Grant and Charlie Chaplin.
Hearst also created America’s largest private zoo in the extended grounds, and descendants of the original zebras still roam amongst the cattle today. The tours of the castle are, by the way, terrifically done, informative, entertaining and well thought through.
North of Hearst Castle the fog swirls and the sun occasionally peeps through, providing stunning glimpses of the amazing Big Sur coastline. Construction of Highway 1, the Pacific Highway, must have been a considerable civil engineering challenge; with good fortune, the weather clears enough for us to obtain great views of the famous, and spectacular, Bixby Bridge.
With time moving on, we pass by Carmel-by-the-Sea, intending to return later, and drop into our new base of Monterey, former sardine capital of the world, under bright blue skies. A few nights ago in Visalia, we stumbled upon a micro brewery, the Sequoia Brewing Company, which had a large selection of beers brewed on site and meals of superb quality. Wandering into downtown Monterey, we soon find ourselves entering a similar establishment, the Alvarado Street Brewery, where the beer, the choices and the food all hit the same high as Visalia.
Mac’n’cheese with bacon, anyone?
Monterey is a delight, one of the most instantly welcoming and appealing places we can imagine. Downtown Monterey, centred around Alvarado Street which houses the brewery, is one of three separate areas full of life, together with Old Fishermen’s Wharf and Cannery Row. The former is a wooden pier whose name tells its history, the latter was the centre of the sardine industry where, at its height, 200,000 tons of sardines were processed each year.
Intense fishing systems hauled heavier catches more and more quickly, until around the late 1940s/early 1950s the sardines suddenly vanished and the canneries all went bust. Some blamed over-fishing, some blamed changes to the tidal flow, others cited divine retribution, but, whatever the reason, the Row’s heyday was over.
Except now it’s conceivably heyday number two, with Cannery Row a tourist destination packed with bars, fish restaurants and a giant aquarium, buzzing with life and vitality. Immortalised during the sardine heyday by Steinbeck’s novel of the same name, Cannery Row nowadays promotes leisure rather than industry but tributes to its past are evident everywhere.
Monterey generally is obviously fiercely proud of its history, a history which includes original Rumsen tribe hunter gatherers, occupation by the Spanish, a period of Mexican rule and ultimately incorporation into the USA. In fact, it was in Monterey that California’s first constitutional convention was held, effectively paving the way for California to become an American state.
An interesting “path of history” leads us around much of Monterey’s sights including many adobe houses, California’s first theatre, the jailhouse and Robert Louis Stevenson’s briefly occupied home. This city has much to celebrate in terms of heritage.
In our time so far in Monterey, the fog has settled out at sea and the sun has shone warmly on the city. This is a city full of life, colour and vibrancy with a rich past and a welcoming present; every bar seems to have at least six draught beers on tap and sensational seafood is served in the many restaurants with fabulous views across the harbour and out to sea.
What’s not to love about Monterey?
28 Comments
BrianTucker
Great photos
Briings back great memorise too!
Enjoy your journey
Cheers
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Brian
leightontravels
Aah, shame about the fog! However, the views that you did get are spectacular. We were oohing and aahing reading this. And not just due to the wonderful photos, but for all the wonderful movie history connected to Hurst’s extravagant house. They actually recreated parts of the castle for the film ‘Mank’. I guess they did a good job, as I could immediately match certain scenes to your photos. Love Bixby Bridge and Monterey too, which are heavily featured in the TV series ‘Big Little Lies’. What a place to call home and as you rightly said: ‘What’s not to love about Monterey’.
Phil & Michaela
So far so good with this trip, Leighton!
Steven and Annie Berger
Glad you’re enjoying yourselves and getting to experience some great west coast highlights. The Hearst castle is unlike any other place I’ve ever seen and the Monterey/Carmel area is just wonderful to explore.
Be safe,
Steve
Phil & Michaela
Thank you Steve (and Annie)
Heyjude
Now Hearst Castle (which looks like one of the Californian missions from the outside) is most definitely ostentatious! Looks like you did the same tour as we did only in sunshine! How lovely to see the Big Sur and Bixby Bridge with blue skies. Makes me want to drive down the PCH again.
Phil & Michaela
Yep, Hearst Castle really is indulgent. We’ve had a good run of sunshine since reaching Monterey, Jude – very pleasant.
Terrie
So glad you are enjoying my neighboring state. Charles reminds me to tell you when he lived in San Francisco every afternoon the temp would drop and fog roll in and tourists would buy sweatshirts to keep warm. That’s the pacific north coast for you! Keep on having fun. And I want to do that trip, he’s from there but I have never been!
Phil & Michaela
Hi Terrie, it’s going rather well so far!
grandmisadventures
Of all the road trips I’ve taken around the country, driving Big Sur will forever be my favorite. Hearst Castle is unreal- like something out of a collection of movies instead of a real place where someone lived. The whole look of the place is incredible! Putting Monterey on my California list! 🙂
Phil & Michaela
It’s a great road trip so far and I’m not surprised it’s one of your favourites. Monterey has been a great location, really enjoyed it here.
Toonsarah
Ah, you make me long to go back to California, even though going back is something we usually try to avoid. One, it can prove a disappointment if places don’t live up to your memories; and two, there are too many other unvisited places out there! But we’ve successfully made exceptions for New York and of course Paris, so maybe CA should be added to that list? I love your photos of the coast, even with a bit of fog, and Monterey looks as great as I remember it, although as I said at the time of our visit, I’m not sure Steinbeck would like what it’s become.
Phil & Michaela
Yes I know what you mean about return visits, Paris is one of our few exceptions too. This trip is great so far, and breaking records as our most expensive ever, too!
Mike and Kellye Hefner
We’re so enjoying following along on your trip with you! Your photos are outstanding. We are looking forward to your next post.
Phil & Michaela
Thank you guys, much appreciated
Andrew Petcher
I feel a Beach Boys song coming on.
Phil & Michaela
God only knows which one
Lookoom
I stopped in Monterey on my way from San Francisco, it was hot and windy. I only spent the night and missed all the historical places you show. I also didn’t go to Hearst Castle, at that time I was not very well prepared for my trips! You did much better.
Phil & Michaela
Really enjoyed that stretch, Morro Bay-Big Sur-Monterey.
wetanddustyroads
Maybe not a castle, but my word … it’s quite amazing! Great picture of you two at Bixby Bridge. I was wondering, while you’re enjoying all those lovely beers … don’t you think back to your recent holiday in Egypt and no alcohol … 🍺
Phil & Michaela
Yeah Hearst Castle is crazy. And yes…at this rate we’ll need another “no alcohol” trip to shed some of the weight California will put on us if we’re not careful!
Joe
Despite the fog, you had a wonderful trip up the coast. Hearst Castle is such an amazing place and a must-see along Highway 1. Architect Julia Morgan was the real star. She was the first woman admitted to Beaux-Artes in Paris and first licensed woman architect in California. She also survived the 1925 earthquake in Santa Barbara and helped re-build the city in the Spanish colonial style. Monterey is a perfect place to stop after your long drive up the coast. We spent a month there in September 2016. Carmel and Point Lobos are also spectacular. Hope you make it there. Glad the sun finally came out.
Phil & Michaela
Yes we were as fascinated by Julia Morgan’s history and achievements as we were by Hearst himself. She must have been brimming full with talent. We did get to Carmel (next post!). Really liked Monterey…currently in San Francisco…
Joe
Terrific! Look forward to your next post. Enjoy the city by the bay.
Latitude Adjustment: A Tale of Two Wanderers
Fantastic folks. Lovely post!
Bill Balsley
Sequoia does NOT brew anything in Visalia. All kegs are delivered from Fresno.
Phil & Michaela
Ah my mistake, thank you for correcting that error. Guess I was misled by the name.